Bangladesh and Bhutan have signed a preferential trade agreement (PTA) on 6 December to ease further trade barriers between the two neighboring countries and facilitate an increase in the volume of bilateral trade. As per Textile Today, this is the first such agreement Bangladesh has signed with any country since independence in 1971.

Under the agreement, around 100 Bangladeshi products will get duty-free access to Bhutan while Bhutan will enjoy duty benefit on its 34 products. Some of the Bangladeshi products that will enjoy duty free access include baby clothes and clothing accessories, men’s trousers and shorts, jackets and blazers, jute and jute goods, leather and leather goods, dry cell battery, fan, watch, potato, condensed milk, cement, toothbrush, plywood, particle board, mineral and carbonated water, green tea, orange juice, pineapple juice, and guava juice.

In order to thank the leadership of board members and committee chairs whose terms end in 2020, AATCC plans to recognize all outgoing chairs at Spring AATCC committee meetings to be held from May 11-13, 2021.

AATCC board members include Rembert Truesdale III, Immediate Past President TenCate Protective Fabrics; Martha Carper, Regional Board Member, Central Atlantic; John Crocker, Midsouth Regional Board Member, SDL Atlas LLC; Heather Elliot, Western Regional Board Member, Adidas, etc.

Its Research committees members include Joseph Lin, Fiber Analysis Test Methods Acting Chair, Vartest Laboratories Inc; William (Buddy) Garrett, RA34 Preparation Test Methods Acting Chair, Cotton Incorporated; Andrew Fraser, RA36 Color Measurement Test Methods Chair, InMocean Group LLC; John Crocker, RA38 Colorfastness to Crocking Test Methods Acting Chair, SDL Atlas LLC, etc.

The organization’s Administrative committee members include Administrative committees include Rembert Truesdale III, Appropriations Committee Chair, TenCate Protective Fabrics; John Darsey, Chapin Award committee Chair, Darsey Color; Michael Grigat, Olney Medal Award Committee Chair, Crypton Inc; William (Bill) DiIanni, Millson Award for Invention Committee Chair, Elevate Textiles.

As per the data from the Export Promotion Bureau, Bangladesh’s knitwear exports grew by 4.8 per cent year-on-year to earn $7.13 billion in the period of July to November of the current FY. As per Textile Today, experts attribute the increase in demand to extensive stay at home, which triggered orders and sales of sweaters.

Simultaneously, Bangladesh’s readymade garment (RMG) exports have been bouncing back as the grim year of 2020 almost coming to an end. The RMG sector earned US$ 2.45 billion in November. Although November’s receipts are 8.2 per cent less of the monthly target of $3.35 billion, still the export earnings in the month are the highest in the August-November period. Official data also showed that, from July to November of this year, the sector earned $12.89 billion with a 1.48 per cent growth rate.

As in November, the export of woven garments fell 10.48 per cent while knitwear export grew by 4.97 per cent.

At the same time, home textile exports grew pointedly during the COVID-19 pandemic because of the increase in the use of hospital bed sheets, medical gowns and curtains, especially in the countries that have been severely hit by the rogue pathogen.

Apparel Export Promotion Council (AEPC) has applauded Reserve Bank of India (RBI) for liberalizing the rules for writing off unrealized export bills. In a letter to Shaktikanta Das, Governor, RBI A Sakthivel, Chairman, AEPC thanked the central bank for permitting Authorised Dealer (AD) banks to write off unrealized export bills of any amount, which earlier was allowed only up to a certain limit beyond which the AD bank had to approach RBI for approval.

The AD banks have also been allowed to consider refund of export proceeds without insisting on import of goods, which are perishable in nature or had been auctioned or destroyed by an authorized agency in the importing country. Sakthivel believes these changes will not only simplify the procedure but also reduce the time taken for getting approvals and thereby reducing the regulatory cost. These measures will help exporters suffering from non-realization of export proceeds due to bankruptcy and insolvency, he said.

BGMEA has sought a fresh stimulus package for the sector besides urging the government to continue benefits given at the beginning of COVID-19. Since April this year, the Bangladesh government has granted Tk 10,500 crore to the export-oriented garment sector in three phases to help factories pay salaries and allowances to workers at 2 per cent service charge. The government has also unveiled some other packages.

For example, it has introduced a Tk 33,000-crore stimulus package for large industrial units and has made available another Tk 12,750 crore in the Export Development Fund. BGMEA has also demanded an extension of moratorium period for repayment of loans under the first stimulus package to one year from six months now. It has also sought an extension of the payback period to five years from one year as the sector is going through a rough patch

Recently, BGMEA participated in the Call for Action program launched by the International Labor Organization to get back payments from international retailers and brands through discussions and consultations.

Of the major retailers and brands with which the BGMEA held talks and discussions are C&A, Bestseller, H&M, M&S, VF, PVH, KIK, Primark, Tesco, Decathlon, Arcadia Group, Next, New Look, Asda/George, OVS, K-Mart and Target Australia, Camieu, La Halle, and Ny Gard.

Texworld and Apparel Sourcing New York City have announced speaker line-up for winter 2021 edition. As per a Textile World report, the New York-based textile events will move to a digital platform for their upcoming edition and open from January 12 -14, 2020.

The events will include Textile Talks and Lenzing seminar series. The sessions will feature a range of expert speakers and panelists leading open discussions and case studies to provide greater insight and knowledge exchange on topics from the latest in trends and technology to challenges within sustainability and climate.

Moderated by the National Science Foundation, the Textile Talk will cover on-farm regenerative practices that brands can support and farmers can adopt. It will be followed by an informative and inspirational discussion to understand how Madewell partners with Fair Trade USA to set sustainability goals and more.

Panelists from The Gap, Lenzing and Textile Exchange will be led by Fashion Takes Action as they delve into the tools needed to address the issue of climate change.

Global science-based company in nutrition, health and sustainable living, Royal DSM has partnered Team Sunweb to integrate Dyneema® fabrics into their team’s apparels to raise the standards of protective clothing. The cycling jerseys, made from Dyneema® high-performance fibers – will protect cyclists from abrasions besides allowing their body moisture to transport at the surface of their jersey, thus keeping them lightweight and enabling the cyclists to maintain pace with comfort.

Known for offering maximum strength with minimum weight, Dyneema® fiber is produced in a patented gel spinning process in which fibers are drawn, heated, elongated and cooled. The fiber has a tensile strength of upto 43 cN/dtex and is 15 times stronger than steel at the same weight. It also excels in cut and abrasion resistance and has a high resistance to chemicals and UV. It’s so light that it can float on water.

The bio-based Dyneema® fiber was first introduced to the world by DSM in May 2020 and offers exactly same features as conventional Dyneema® with a 90 per cent less carbon footprint.

Despite being in the business of garment manufacturing for over 40 years, Bangladesh still manufactures low-value garment items. According to BGMEA, around 80 per cent of country’s garment exports fall within the price range of $15 per kilogram, and only 20 per cent items get a price more than $15 and a tiny fraction gets $35.

BGMEA attributes this to the country’s lack of innovative capabilities in areas of designing and product development and expertise, skills and technologies, and limited diversification in the area of non-cotton area.

Ahsan H Mansur, Executive Director, Policy Research Institute of Bangladesh, to produce high-end garment items, Bangladesh needs manmade fibers, which are not produced by the country. The country is strong in making apparels from cotton fiber as nearly 80 per cent of Bangladesh’s garment items are manufactured from cotton.

Considered the backbone of its economy, the Sri Lankan apparel industry is often misunderstood for its employee treatment and sustainability standards. The industry directly employs 350,000 people and a double of this indirectly. Female workers make up 34 per cent of the industry’s total workforce and the apparel industry employing 40 per cent of Sri Lanka’s female workforce. A Kantar study done in January 2018 revealed though current employees within the Sri Lanka apparel industry are satisfied with their condition; communities around them tend to perceive female employees negatively. This negative perception emerges from a lack of knowledge about the industry’s true nature.

Practitioner of ethical labor standards

Renowned for their ethical practices across the world, Sri Lankan apparel manufacturers adhere to rigorous labor standards. They operate employee councils under the Board of Investments (BOI) guidelines to mutually resolve disputes with employees. Most of their plants undergo independent third-party audits to ensure compliance to both local laws and buyer stipulated requirements. As per The Worldwide Responsible Accredited Production (WRAP) website, Sri Lanka currently has 112 WRAP Gold or WRAP Platinum certified facilities.

Also, the industry’s compensation structure is often misrepresented. On average, the industry pays factory employee Rs 40,000 per month, which includes transport, meals, medical, insurance and several other benefits, not offered by other industries reports Daily FT.

Pioneer of sustainability initiatives

The Sri Lankan apparel industry is also a pioneer of environmental sustainability initiatives. The country has several carbon neutral and LEED certified facilities that operate as net zero carbon emitters. It also has South Asia’s first Passive House certified project and the world’s second Passive House certified factory building in the world, reports AIA New York. An energy-efficient construction, this building follows stringent standards for quality, comfort, and energy efficiency.

From May to September 2020, Sri Lanka exported apparels worth $1.85 billion. This made the industry one of its most significant foreign exchange earners. The country has been able to grow its apparel exports year after year despite being the highest wage payers in the Asia-Pacific region.

Even, though the industry is facing its biggest challenge due to COVID-19, it is confident of bouncing back soon. Time and again, experts have advised Sri Lankan government of reducing its dependence on the apparel industry. However, the government should aim to boost the industry instead of replacing it. It needs to recognize the strength of this industry and explore it to its fullest potential.

COVID-19 has given the fashion industry an opportunity to reiterate its commitment to sustainability. The US Cotton Trust Protocol highlights, three key fashion trends are likely to emerge from this pandemic that would help drive sustainability in the industry. As per Sustainable Brands, a premier global community of brand innovators, demand for sustainable fashion is growing with 51 per cent of respondents to a Trust Protocol/Economist Intelligence Unit (EIU) survey saying customers are the main drivers of sustainability in fashion.

Customers driving sustainability decisions

As per a Sourcing Journal survey, 49 per cent brands and retailers fear losing customers if they fail to meet their customer’s sustainability demands. Around 54 per cent said, there has been an increase in demand for sustainable products since the outbreak of the pandemic. And a McKinsey survey indicates 31 per cent customers are willing to pay a premium for eco-friendly products; 57 per cent shoppers plan to make significant changes in their lifestyles to lessen their environmental impact; 64 per cent shoppers hope to reduce their expenditure on clothing and footwear. In fact, 60 per cent respondents to the EIU survey ranked sustainability the second most strategic objective after improved customer experiences.

Data to help improve sourcing decisions

In the EIU survey, seven out of 10 respondents opined, brands and retailers can make fast fashion both affordable and sustainable. Almost three-quarters of them agreed, a brand’s sustainability level can be measured through global standards and certifications. A quarter of them emphasize on the need for reliable data to help brands make informed decisions to improve sustainability over the next decade. In fact, Tara Luckman, Director, Flourish CSR and Advisor, US Cotton Trust Protocol expects this data to be a valuable tool for brands to demonstrate the quantifiable impact of their sourcing decisions.

Gary Adams, President and CEO, US Cotton Trust Protocol points out, the objective of the protocol is to help brands meet consumers’ demands by driving continuous improvement in key sustainability metrics. Through its combination of a unique credit accounting system and the Permanent Bale Identification (PBI) system, the protocol enables brands to ensure transparency throughout their supply chain.

The protocol also gives members access to the Trust Protocol credit system that helps them validate the consumption of cotton and associated credit. It enables brands and retailers to show progress against their committed pledges and goals. It also validates the sustainability credentials proven via Field to Market: The Alliance for Sustainable Agriculture aligned with the UN Sustainable Development Goals.

Going forward, the protocol can help the global apparel industry more sustainable by providing valuable insights into its worldwide supply chain, thus helping it to protect the planet.