FW
Boyish jeans for women
Denim brand Boyish makes men’s style jeans for women. The aim is to make women have their bodies feel amazing in its jeans and make them feel good for supporting social and environmental efforts.
Design is at the forefront of the brand’s ethos. Boyish, based in the US, will never make a product that isn’t sustainable and eco-conscious but also won’t make a product that is sustainable and eco-conscious without it looking and performing well. Its mission is to make great jeans and be as transparent as possible about everything it does so other brands can learn to make their jeans better.
Currently, Boyish Jeans is taking its technology of blending recycled cotton and spinning it with Tencel Lyocell with Refibra technology to create the world’s most sustainable and circular yarn. The brand recycles all its cutting scraps back into its fabrics when remaking them. Sixty per cent of the collection is 100 per cent natural and cellulosic fibers. Boyish looks to make seasonless, well made, long lasting denim that can one day be recycled back into new jeans. Fits are inspired by vintage jeans found at flea markets. The aim is to make authentic jeans since the last 15 years have been about stretch.
Bangladesh revises garment prices
Garment manufacturers in Bangladesh are working on fixing a price for their exports.
This price will be made viable in line with rising production costs caused by higher wages and factory remediation. There has been a rise in minimum wages by 50 per cent for apparel workers. Businesses have faced an increase in production costs of around 20 per cent in recent years. But buyers are unwilling to pay higher prices and this, say exporters, has eroded their profit margins. Exporters say a higher price will also benefit workers.
Bangladesh’s apparel industry is going through massive factory remediation, value addition, innovation and technological upgradation in order to cope with buyers’ demands.
Bangladesh’s apparel industry has already made remarkable progress in factory remediation, building green factories and meeting stringent safety standards. Annual export earnings from the industry have grown from 9.3 billion dollars in 2007 to 30 billion dollars in 2018. At the same time, Bangladesh’s reputation has also improved globally due to remediation of the garment factories by Accord and Alliance.
Bangladesh is still a lucrative destination for sourcing low-cost garments after China. Outside of China, Bangladesh is increasingly given preferences for apparel sourcing due to the competitive price and quality.
Bangladesh, Russia MoU to boost bilateral trade
Bangladesh and Russia have reportedly decided to sign a Memorandum of Understanding (MoU) to remove all trade barriers between the two countries.
There are currently no banking transactions between Bangladesh and Russia, and trade is done through Telegraphic Transfer (TT), which as per many garment makers, is a major hindrance towards facilitating garment business with Russia.
There is huge demand for Bangladeshi apparel items alongside sea foods, potato and medicine in the Russian markets. The MoU will allow banking transactions between the two countries to reduce difficulties related to trade and commerce thereby giving a fillip to trade with Russia.
Bestseller focuses on sustainability
Bestseller has placed sustainability at the core of its business.
The new strategy called Fashion FWD emphasizes the immediate need for inclusive and holistic action on sustainability across the value chain. It is based on becoming as sustainable as possible, as soon as possible, across four focus areas covering Bestseller’s value chain. These areas are using sustainable materials and working with innovative new fibers, improving its environmental footprint to have a positive impact on the environment, embedding human rights in the industry and focusing on a circular business model.
Bestseller has also committed to a new investment platform as a part of Fashion FWD. Dubbed Invest FWD, this new initiative will see Bestseller strategically invest in sustainable innovation and solutions throughout the whole life cycle of fashion.
Each of these focus areas includes specific, measurable goals for the period 2019 to 2025. Bestseller commits to being fashion forward until the company is climate positive, fair for all and circular by design. Climate positive means that it will remove more emissions than it emits. Fair for all means it will promote equality, dignity and safe working conditions for all, and circular by design means that the company will turn waste into a valuable resource throughout its value chain.
Australian sustainable designer launches first commercial collection
Australian sustainable fashion designer, Tess Whitfort launched her first commercial collection, entitled Avoidance. The collection is created using rescued textile waste and innovative zero-waste design techniques to catalyse a circular fashion system.
The six-piece Avoidance collection features an aviation inspired jumpsuit alongside the experimental ‘Preston Dress’ with adjustable belted detailing and a classic retro varsity style jacket, which all feature unique twists on classic designs.
Designed in partnership with award-winning sustainable manufacturer, TAL Apparel, Tess’ zero-waste pattern techniques brought about groundbreaking fabric utilisation during manufacturing, with several of her styles achieving less than one percent fabric wastage, compared with an industry norm of approximately 15 per cent. Her collection is formed of upcycled denim, crepe, wool, and cotton, which were rescued from world-leading luxury brands, mills, and manufacturers, thereby avoiding the need to create virgin materials and minimising fashion’s negative environmental impacts.
AAFA supports USMCA approval
The American Apparel & Footwear Association announced its full support for quick passage of the United States-Mexico-Canada Agreement (USMCA).
AAFA has long supported the USMCA negotiations, calling for the resulting agreement to be trilateral with Mexico and Canada, to not harm to the industry’s supply chains, and to be seamlessly implemented. As part of its support for USMCA, AAFA is an active member of the USMCA coalition.
The American Apparel & Footwear Association (AAFA) is the national trade association representing apparel, footwear and other sewn products companies, and their suppliers, which compete in the global market. Representing more than 1,000 world famous name brands, we are the trusted public policy and political voice of the apparel and footwear industry, its management and shareholders, its nearly four million U.S. workers, and its contribution of more than $400 billion in annual U.S. retail sales.
Lyst releases latest ranking of world’s top fashion brands for Q42018
"Recent data from The NPD Group shows, dollar sales of luxury fashion in the US market have increased by 50 per cent in recent years, with substantial growth registered in sales of expensive apparel and footwear. Global fashion-search platform Lyst also released its latest ranking of the world's top fashion brands for Q4 2018. It analysed the online-shopping behavior of over five million consumers a month, monitoring how these shoppers search, browse, and buy fashion across 12,000 designers and stores online."
Recent data from The NPD Group shows, dollar sales of luxury fashion in the US market have increased by 50 per cent in recent years, with substantial growth registered in sales of expensive apparel and footwear. Global fashion-search platform Lyst also released its latest ranking of the world's top fashion brands for Q4 2018. It analysed the online-shopping behavior of over five million consumers a month, monitoring how these shoppers search, browse, and buy fashion across 12,000 designers and stores online. The report also takes Google search data and social media mentions and engagement statistics into account. Following brands dominated the rankings:
Burberry : Customers appreciate Burberry’s new look. Despite skepticism around its turnaround efforts, Lyst data shows Burberry's "revamped look" is resonating well with customers. The brand has rolled out limited-edition drops, which are exclusively shoppable on Instagram and Chinese messaging app WeChat. These have been selling out in a matter of hours.
Valentino: Thanks to Gwyneth Paltrow, Valentino had a buzzy start to the fourth quarter. The actress-turned-businesswoman wore a Valentino dress for her wedding in September.
Vetements: Vetements experienced a growth in its social media followers after Tilda Swinton wore a red Vetements dress to the Sitges Film Festival in Spain in October.
Stone Island: Making a reappearance in the top 10 list after a six-month hiatus, Stone Island products registered up 122 per
cent growth in the most recent quarter. The brand was mentioned over 327,000 times on social media.
Versace: Versace was bought by Michael Kors, now Capri Holdings, for $2.12 billion last year. The company now plans to grow the brand’s revenue from about $808 million to $2 billion, expand its footprint from 200 to 300 stores, and ramp up its shoes and accessories assortment.
Fendi: Fendi, in October 2018, launched its Fendi Mania capsule collection, which featured a mashup of the Fendi/Fila logo, designed by an Instagram artist. The launch events for this collection, which took place in nine cities, lit up social media, Lyst wrote, creating a big spike in interest around the brand.
Moncler: Occupying fourth place in the list, Moncler’s signature luxury down jackets were included on Lyst's men's and women's hottest products lists too.
Balenciaga: The brand came into the limelight in December, after Michelle Obama wore a $4,000 pair of thigh-high silver Balenciaga boots to an event in New York to promote her new book.
Off-White: Founded in 2012, this high-end streetwear label is the brainchild of Virgil Abloh, who is also artistic director of Louis Vuitton Men's. Its Nike x Off-White The Ten series was the hottest sneaker collection of 2018, according to Lyst.
Gucci: Gucci reigned supreme at the end of 2018 after taking various top spots in the ranking throughout the previous parts of the year. Between October and December, more than six million shoppers searched for the brand’s accessories which have become the most coveted fashion products of the world.
ILRF report lays out roadmap for transforming global apparel industry
"The International Labor Rights Forum’s new paper, ‘Future of Fashion: Worker-Led Strategies for Corporate Accountability in the Global Apparel Industry,’ highlights corporate social responsibility (CSR) and multi-stakeholder initiatives have failed to address and remedy the persistent exploitation of millions of apparel industry workers. The eight-storey Bangladeshi Rana Plaza collapsed on the April 24, 2013, killing at least 1,134 apparel workers and leaving 2,500 others injured. Unfortunately, this is not an anomaly in the global apparel industry. "
The International Labor Rights Forum’s new paper, ‘Future of Fashion: Worker-Led Strategies for Corporate Accountability in the Global Apparel Industry,’ highlights corporate social responsibility (CSR) and multi-stakeholder initiatives have failed to address and remedy the persistent exploitation of millions of apparel industry workers. The eight-storey Bangladeshi Rana Plaza collapsed on the April 24, 2013, killing at least 1,134 apparel workers and leaving 2,500 others injured. Unfortunately, this is not an anomaly in the global apparel industry. In previous year also, two factory fires – one in Pakistan’s Ali Enterprises factory and another in Bangladesh’s Tazreen Fashions factory – had killed more than 350 apparel workers and left many others permanently disabled. Surprisingly, all three factory buildings had passed safety inspections by corporate-funded auditors.
Dealing with complex global supply chains
The global apparel industry is characterised by complex global supply chains operated by large multinational brands/retailers, like Gap and Walmart. These brands/retailers outsource production to factories in developing nations. This model of outsourced, globalised production enables MNC brands and retailers to increase profits besides insulating themselves from legal liability for working conditions in the factories making their products.
Responding to NGO campaigns, trade union pressure, and media exposés of sweatshop abuses in the 1990s, MNCs adopted
private, voluntary codes of conduct those require their suppliers to comply with minimum labor standards. Monitoring of compliance with these codes is largely left to third-party social auditing firms that conduct short, annual visits to the factories to assess working conditions.
Critics have pointed out the shortcomings of this model, including extreme time pressures on auditors leading to superficial “check-the-box” assessments, the absence of meaningful consultations with workers or trade unions during the audit process, a lack of transparency with regard to the audit results, and a failure to correct violations, even when serious problems are detected.
Notably, most CSR models fail to address a fundamental root cause of labor violations and poor working conditions: the sourcing and purchasing practices of brands’ and retailers’ own business model, and in particular the price squeeze that they impose on their suppliers.
CSR initiatives fail to address industry issues
As a result, corporate-led social responsibility initiatives have been largely ineffective in improving conditions for workers and have particularly failed to address the most pervasive problems in the industry: low wages and the violation of freedom of association and collective bargaining rights. Indeed, corporate-led models based on social auditing have primarily protected corporate interests and image, rather than providing a counterbalance to the unequal power relations that are at the root of poor working conditions and labor violations in garment factories across the world.
‘Future of Fashion’ explores the successes and challenges of three examples – in Indonesia, Honduras, and Bangladesh – of enforceable brand agreements in the global apparel industry, examining the context in which each was developed and how they address the deficiencies in traditional CSR approaches. It then outlines a four-part analytic framework, or essential elements, for identifying what a worker-centered, worker-driven model for advancing workers’ rights in the apparel supply chain should include. Finally, it lays out a road map for transforming the global apparel industry through greater uptake of worker-led initiatives and other actions necessary to strengthen worker rights in the global apparel industry.
India drafts national e-commerce policy
India will not join the negotiations with the World Trade Organization (WTO) to develop trade rules on e-commerce as it is working on a national ecommerce policy, which will be finalised soon. In its draft national e-commerce policy, India has proposed regulating cross-border data flows, locating computing facilities within the country to ensure job creation and setting up a dedicated ‘data authority’ for issues related to sharing of community data.
The e-commerce policy will pursue the existing multilateral work programme that prohibits countries from imposing customs duties on electronic transmissions, something that India and South Africa have questioned, citing revenue loss to developing nations.
India has also sought reforms of the multilateral body and resolution of outstanding issues urgently. Its top most priority is to protect and preserve the system, fix the Appellate Body issue so that the independent dispute settlement mechanism can function effectively.
U.S. firms’ shift to other countries intensifies
Apparel and footwear manufacturers in the US have been shifting their production mix to factories in other countries like Vietnam, Indonesia and Egypt for much of the past decade, but the push has intensified due to the trade war. The United States has not hit most finished apparel and footwear with punitive tariffs.
It will take years, however, for large manufacturers and retailers to build new supply networks. Many companies have held off raising prices to offset tariffs, in hope that they would go away.
As it becomes clear that the risk of tariffs will linger, more companies are taking steps to mitigate them and accepting trade conflict with China as a new fact of life. Some companies are resorting to the price hikes they have been delaying. Kubota held off raising prices until now in hopes that the costs associated with tariffs – including higher prices for imported parts from China – would be short-lived. Kubota has 10 U.S. factories, with seven in Kansas. Its business has been hammered by retaliatory tariffs on U.S. farmers.












