Clothing production more than doubled in the 21st century as consumer spending increased and operational costs reduced. The rise of fast fashion culture further revolutionised the apparel business as production cycle churned out latest fashion trends on a weekly basis. However, production techniques lagged as suppliers failed to match rising standards. The industry continued to be accused of poor social and sustainable practices.

To transform production practices of the industry and make it more sustainable, CleanChain, an application designed to increase profitability across the apparel value chain has launched the ‘Chemical Score’ program that facilitates adoption and usage of sustainable chemical, solutions in the industry.

Helping brands make more eco-friendly choices

Designed in collaboration with global brands, ZDHC and leading third-party safer chemistry solution providers Scivera and ToxServices, The CleanChain Chemical Score, enables businesses to make more environmentally friendly choices by assessing and rating chemicals and chemical substances.

The chemicals are rated by leading independent third-party providers, Scivera and ToxServices, through a standardized and transparent scoring methodology with full material disclosure of assessed formulations, thereby promoting the usage of safer alternatives.

Improving sustainable chemistry

The ranking system enables brands to rank factories according to the volume of chemicals used in their inventory. It also helps factories track and improve their sustainable chemistry goals by selecting safer alternative products, or working with formulators to score additional chemical products and help improve the industry’s visibility and awareness in general.

The program illustrates the progress made by the apparel industry toward Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals. says Joe Rinkevich, Founder & President, Scivera.

An insight into brands’ supply chain

CleanChain’s partnership with Scivera and ToxServices helps it provide brands and suppliers the required information to select safer formulations, adds Daniel Murray, Managing Director. It is an award-winning environmental software solution that helps suppliers run their businesses more effectively.

A part of ADEC Innovations, CleanChain also gives brands an opportunity to engage with their supply chain, and gain visibility and insight into their environmental and social practices throughout their supply chain.

Launched in 2008, Scivera promotes safer and more sustainable chemistry and material health decisions across all consumer products. The company’s flagship software-as-a-service, SciveraLEN is used by global brands, their manufacturers, and chemical suppliers to achieve safer chemistry and material health success, while reducing cost and protecting confidential ingredient information. SciveraLENS is the largest CHA knowledge base in existence, providing subscribers the ability to forecast chemical scores for multiple sustainability certification programs and deliver safer chemistry results for their customers and the world.

The upcoming Taiwan Textile Roadshow from October 6 to 7 will showcase garment products from Taiwan (China). To be held at the Hanoi International Exhibition Centre, the trade show will be co-organized by The Taiwan Textile Federation (TTF) and the Vietnam National Trade Fair and Advertising Company (Vinexad). It will be sponsored by the Bureau of Foreign Trade under the Ministry of Economic Affairs of Taiwan. As per a Vietnam Plus report, the event will strengthen cooperation between Vietnamese and Taiwanese enterprises in the textile and garment sector.

Around 12 Taiwanese textile manufacturers will participate via Zoom, exchanging experience with and introducing products to Vietnamese enterprises with interpretation support. They will introduce techniques to produce fabric using dyeing treatment that can reduce the impact on the environment. They have also applied innovative technologies in production to produce fabrics with many outstanding features such as fabric from recycled plastic, warp-print fabric, antibacterial fabric, UV protection fabric, cooling and multi-functional fabric.

In 2020, Vietnam was Taiwan's largest textile and garment export market. It accounted for 25.3 per cent of Taiwan’s total export turnover of textiles and garments. The top five export markets, including Vietnam, mainland China, the US, Indonesia and Hong Kong (China), account for 60.3 per cent of Taiwan’s total apparel exports.

Taiwan's largest and second-largest sources of textiles in 2020 were mainland China and Vietnam, accounting for 43 per cent and 14 per cent of total textile imports and valued at $1.46 billion and $467 million respectively. The main import items from mainland China and Vietnam were clothing and accessories.

The government’s approval of inverted duty structure on apparels costing above Rs 1,000 may increase their prices by about 7 per cent, says Sanjay Jain, Chairperson, Textile Expert Committee, Indian Chamber of Commerce. The GST Council has been deliberating on correcting the anomaly in textiles and had announced a three-month waiting period till December at its meeting in Lucknow last week before making the change. The changes will, therefore, take effect from January 2022.

Jain says garment prices have already shot up 20 per cent in the last one year because of increase in the prices of cotton and other fibers. A further increase in rates may severely impact small garment manufacturers. It may also lead to a rise in unaccounted activities, adds Vinod Gupta, Co-Chairman, Textiles Sub-Committee, Bharat Chamber of Commerce, and Senior Vice-President, West Bengal Hosiery Association.

The industry also expects a rise in working capital requirement especially for the MSME textile manufacturers if the rates are increased, says Ramesh Agarwal, Past President, Merchants Chamber of Commerce and Industry.

Egypt's cotton prices have almost doubled to a record level in 2021, shows the latest report by Cotton Research Institute. Growth is mainly attributed to the government’s initiative of promoting the textile industry, by expanding the cultivated areas and improving the quality of seeds. As per the Big News Network, the price of a qantar of cotton (45 kg of lint cotton) has surged more than 70 per cent to 3,900 Egyptian pounds (nearly $248) compared to $114.5 last year. Hisham Mosad, Manager, Cotton Research Institute attributes the rise in cotton prices to new marketing system that depends on holding auctions across the country periodically and the government's new approach of selling cotton this season.

The cotton planting area in Egypt increased to 236,000 feddans (991,200,877 sq m), in 2021 compared to 183,000 feddans (768,600,680 square meters) in 2020, Mosad says, predicting that cotton will represent a big share in the types map of plantation across the country in the coming few years. So far, some 20 countries have signed contracts with Egypt to import Egyptian cotton, he said, naming India, Pakistan, the US, China, some EU countries, and Japan as the top importers of Egyptian cotton.

Egypt exports the majority of its long-staple cotton and imports three million qantars of short-staple cotton that is originally used in local textile production, according to official statistics.

However, under the government's new strategy for 2025, 60 percent of the cotton production will be used in local industries, adds Mosad.

The European Commission has approved the legislative proposal to improve the European Union’s (EU) generalized scheme of preferences (GSP) and extend its period from 2024 to 2034. Through its proposal the Commission aims to make GSP more focused on reducing poverty and increasing export opportunities for low-income countries. It also aims to incentivize sustainable economic growth in low-income countries and offer new room for engagement on environmental and good governance issues.

The new GSP framework strengthens the EU's ability to use trade preferences to create economic opportunities and advance sustainable development. The modernized framework also expands the grounds for the withdrawal of EU GSP preferences in case of serious and systematic violations.

The new proposal ensures smooth transition for all countries set to graduate from Least Developed Country (LDC) status in the next decade. These countries can apply for the special incentive arrangement for sustainable development and good governance (GSP+) if they commit to strong sustainability standards and can thus retain generous tariff preferences to access to the EU market.

The new scheme also proposes to set up a well-defined framework for the current GSP+ beneficiaries to adapt to the new requirements, offering an adequate transition period and requiring the presentation of implementation plans.

With Sri Lankan apparel industry’s order books for October-December quarter being full, the Fabric and Apparel Accessories Manufactures Association (FAAMA) is confident of achieving the $ 800 million turnover target for the year. As per a Daily FT report, despite facing many challenges last year, the apparel industry staged a major recovery that confirms its relevance to the growth and way-forward strategy of overall exports of the apparel industry. FAAMA is a key sub-sector of the $5 billion apparel industry, which has grown to be worth $800 million from $500 million a few years ago.

Apparel factories in the country are currently operating in full swing, adhering to the Health Ministry stipulated protocols, despite additional cost borne by the manufactures, says Pubudu de Silva, Chairman FAAMA. Manufacturers’ value additions increased from 30 to 50 per cent over the past five years. In-country sourcing has helped Sri Lanka save foreign exchange outflow, besides tightening control over supply chains.

The government had earlier set an ambitious $6 billion export target for the apparel industry but it was later revised to $5.1 billion due to setbacks resulting from the fourth wave of COVID. Last year, apparel exports dropped to $4.1 billion from $ 5.6 billion in 2019.

The country faces port-related logistics issues that it hopes to resolve with the help of Joint Apparel Association Forum (JAAF) and relevant authorities. However, the foreign exchange crisis in the country has aggravated the challenges faced by all exporters. FAAMA is also working closely with the Government to find sustainable solutions for waste management issues.

Asahi Kasei plans to restructure its production strategy across Europe to face the new, unexpected and critical market situation. As a part of this process, the company will discontinue production and sales of Roica’s German subsidiary, Dormagen-based Asahi Kasei Spandex Europe GmbH, by March 31, 2022. However, the group will continue to develop sales, technical and marketing services in Europe through Asahi Kasei Europe, the European regional headquarters of the Asahi Kasei Group in Dusseldorf, Germany.

As per a Spin Off report, the company will continue to serve the European market through manufacturing sites in Asia including Japan (Shiga prefecture), Taiwan (Taipei), China (Hangzhou) and Thailand (Chnonburi). The company is discussing an appropriate withdrawal process for Asahi Kasei Spandex Europe’s current workforce of 181 people. The Japanese chemical specialist markets the premium stretch brand Roica through production sites in Japan, Thailand, China and Germany and sales facilities around the world,

A Citi Research survey finds that Nike and Adidas have regained their popularity with Chinese consumers following uproar in March with several Western companies over their stance on China’s Xinjiang region.

As per a SGB Media report, Nike, Adidas, H&M and other major Western apparel brands had faced a boycott in China over past comments the fashion brands made about labor conditions in Xinjiang’s Western region, home to Muslim Uighurs, becoming embroiled in a diplomatic row between China and the West. China denied allegations of human rights abuses after the European Union, U.S, Britain and Canada imposed sanctions on the officials.

Citi’s September survey followed a survey of 1,000 Chinese consumers conducted in June that was already showing a gradual recovery in the health of western athletic brands.

When asked which athletic brands they considered purchasing next, 81 percent of Chinese consumers surveyed indicated they planned to buy Nike in September, up from 48 percent in the June survey. For Adidas, 49 percent said they planned to buy Adidas, increasing from 31 percent in June.

Peak and Li Ning were down significantly on purchase intent from June to September, with 7 percent and 4 percent of respondents considering purchasing Peak and Li Ning in September, down from 54 percent for both in June.

US’ import of brassieres – foundation garment and shapewear category –remained positive in January-July ’21 period.

As per an Apparel Resources report, the of US’ brassiers imports surged by 54.34 per cent during the seven month period to reach $1.60 billion. All top five exporting countries in brassieres category saw double-digit growth to the US while Honduras – the 7th top shipper – grew in triple digits.

China’s shipments grew by 54.36 per cent on Y-o-Y to $525 million while Vietnam clocked $313.14 million, increasing its export by 55.43 per cent on Y-o-Y basis during the period

Sri Lanka, Indonesia and Bangladesh shipped brassieres products to US worth $ 149.22 million, $147.85 million and $93 million, respectively; noting 39.40 per cent, 70.59 per cent and 46.58 per cent yearly growth.

Honduras doubled its shipment of brassieres products to $52.75 million and witnessed a whopping 107.12 per cent yearly growth in the US market.

The demand for a wide range of products, such as control camisoles, corsets, body shapers, singlets and body briefs, is likely to boost the market growth even more in the US in months to come.

Nike Inc has cut its fiscal 2022 sales predictions as it expects the holiday shopping season to be delayed due to a supply chain crunch that has left it with soaring freight costs and products stuck in transit.

The Beaverton, Oregon-based company now expects a mid-single-digit increase in full-year sales growth, versus the low-double-digit increase it had previously estimated.

Nike also expects second-quarter revenue growth to be in the range of flat to down low-single digits versus the prior year due to factory closures. Brokerage BTIG this month downgraded Nike's stock, saying the risk of significant cancellations beginning this holiday and running through at least next spring has risen materially for Nike.

Nike’s revenue rose to $12.25 billion from $10.59 billion in the first quarter ended Aug. 31, while analysts on average had expected $12.46 billion, according to IBES data from Refinitiv. The brand’s net income rose by 23 per cent to $1.87 billion, or $1.16 per share, in the first quarter.

Apparel retailers have had to grapple with higher raw material costs, and spend more on shipping to get their products in stores on time. Apparel companies including Abercrombie & Fitch and Adidas AG have also taken a hit to their businesses due to production issues in Vietnam. Lockdowns in many parts of the country are set to last at least until the end of September.