Jeanswear retailers and brands are increasingly incorporating recycled content into their in-stock options, signaling a significant shift towards sustainability. According to a report by global retail analytics firm Edited, the availability of denim products containing recycled materials has risen by 28 percent in the UK and 18 percent in the US compared to the previous year.

"Recycled" has emerged as the most popular sustainability keyword in product descriptions, surpassing "organic" by featuring in 20 percent of in-stock denim options.

Affordability is another driving factor for the popularity of recycled denim. The report reveals that in the UK, jeans with recycled content have the lowest average price of $64, while in the US, the average price is $102.74, the second lowest among the sustainability keywords.

The increased prevalence of recycled denim can be attributed to a growing awareness of garment lifecycles and circular fashion initiatives such as the Ellen MacArthur's Jeans Redesign guidelines.

Organic cotton is also gaining traction in the denim industry, with a 28 percent increase in in-stock options for men's and women's wear. However, the overall availability of organic cotton textiles has decreased by 20 percent due to inflation and low supply. Despite this, mill-led programs and collaborations have contributed to the use of organic cotton in jeans.

The industry's focus on sustainability extends beyond materials to include environmentally friendly dyes, water-saving finishing processes, and promoting denim's durability through upcycled collections.

The continued efforts of brands and consumers to embrace sustainable practices are key drivers of the ongoing transformation within the denim industry.

Pure London, the UK's largest fashion festival, has unveiled an impressive lineup of resort wear brands that will be showcasing their latest collections. Taking place from July 16th to 18th, 2023, at the iconic Olympia London, Pure London is renowned for its ability to bring together the brightest minds in the industry, offering a platform to showcase the season's must-have collections, latest trends, and exclusive business insights.

Among the standout brands participating in this season's event are Guilty Beach, PALME, Terre Rouge, Sophia Alexia, Zen Ethic, NoLogo, One Hundred Stars, Coocu Resorts, Pho Firenze, and Sandy Tzatzou.

Making its debut at Pure London, Italian brand Pho Firenze presents an exotic collection inspired by the enchanting lifestyle of Tuscany. With crochet, tassels, and sheer materials, their designs combine youthful patterns and form-flattering silhouettes, resulting in glamorous creations.

Another newcomer, Coocu Resorts, draws inspiration from Greek heritage, architecture, and nature, offering dresses, kaftans, and tunics crafted from natural cottons, linen, and silks, featuring exquisite embroidery and jacquard patterns.

Pure London also welcomes Sandy Tzatzou, a Greek brand showcasing show-stopping swimwear complemented by feminine and elegant ready-to-wear styles. Returning to the festival, Zen Ethic presents chic and comfortable clothes inspired by the authenticity and spirituality of India, using natural and recycled materials.

Guilty Beach, a premium brand, displays timeless resort wear known for luxury, featuring beautiful embroidery, unique prints, and stunning beading. Luxury fashion resort wear brand Sophia Alexia specializes in exclusive, colorful prints adorning dresses, beach shirts, kaftans, and accessories, offering an elegant and flattering collection.

NoLoGo, a UK-designed brand, captures the essence of summer with versatile and practical styles, while PALME stands out with its cheerful colors and bold prints, equally suitable for city and beach wear. Terre Rouge, originating from Southern France, presents a vibrant cotton collection of colorful and easy-to-wear styles.

The festival will showcase collections that explore sustainable production, slow fashion, and traditional artisan craftsmanship from around the world, promising an exciting and inspiring celebration of fashion.

Ahead of the inaugural Organic Textile Week (15-21 May 2023), a recent survey conducted in the UK has highlighted consumer concerns regarding deceptive practices within the fashion industry.

The survey, which gathered responses from 2,000 individuals, found that a staggering 70% of participants would be less inclined to purchase products from brands making false claims about their organic credentials.

Furthermore, the study revealed that 59% of respondents expressed feelings of anger or disgust upon discovering that certain clothing brands, purporting to be organic, may actually contain hazardous synthetic pesticides and other harmful chemicals. This revelation underscored the growing demand for genuinely sustainable clothing options, with 57% of participants emphasizing the importance of purchasing clothes and textiles that are authentically sustainable.

Alarmingly, over three-quarters of those surveyed admitted to being unsure or unaware of the meaning behind the term "certified organic textiles." Astonishingly, nearly a third of the British population remained oblivious to the existence of organic textiles or clothing altogether. In addition, 56% of respondents confessed to lacking knowledge on how to identify certified organic items.

The survey findings also unveiled strong public support for legislation requiring clothing brands to adhere to transparent organic textile processing standards before being permitted to label their products as organic.

A significant 70% of participants advocated for such legal requirements, emphasizing the need to combat greenwashing practices within the industry.

Sweden, currently holding the rotating presidency of the EU Council, has caused controversy by removing a ban on the destruction of unsold and returned textiles from a draft law aimed at improving circularity and sustainability within the European economy.

This decision has led to a group of more ambitious countries, including Germany, France, Austria, the Netherlands, and Belgium, blocking the agreement until the ban is reinstated. The removal of the ban has been deemed unacceptable by these countries, who argue that it contradicts the principles of a circular economy.

The proposal, known as the ecodesign proposal, was introduced by the European Commission in 2022 to enhance the environmental performance of certain products. The ban on destroying unsold textiles was a key component of this proposal, aiming to reduce waste and discourage overproduction. The textile industry is a significant contributor to resource depletion, water usage, and greenhouse gas emissions, making it crucial to address its sustainability challenges in Europe's transition to a more environmentally friendly economy.

The destruction of unsold consumer products, particularly due to the growth of online sales, has become an environmental problem across the EU. The European Commission's proposal highlights that this practice leads to the wasteful use of valuable resources, as goods are produced, transported, and then destroyed without ever fulfilling their intended purpose.

Several EU member states have already implemented national-level laws to prevent the destruction of unsold consumer products. Failing to introduce a similar measure at the EU level could create market distortions, according to the EU executive's argument in support of the ban.

The removal of the ban by Sweden has now sparked a deadlock within the EU country representatives. While discussions took place to reinstate the ban, an agreement could not be reached. The Swedish presidency will need to continue working on an agreement before the next meeting of EU country representatives. The hope is that an agreement can be reached, allowing ministers to approve the law at the competitiveness council. Subsequently, negotiations with the European Parliament will take place to finalize the law. Restoring the ban on the destruction of unsold textiles would be a significant step towards reducing waste and encouraging responsible production and consumption practices within the EU.

Lenzing Group, a specialty fiber company for the textile and nonwoven industries, has joined forces with Austrian companies and organizations to advance circularity in the textile sector. In collaboration with partners such as ARA, Salesianer Miettex, Caritas, and Södra, Lenzing aims to collect used household and clothing textiles for recycling into new lyocell and viscose fibers.

The pilot project involves Salesianer Miettex collecting textiles unsuitable for reuse, which are then passed on to ARA for delivery to Caritas. Caritas, a recycling plant providing employment opportunities for individuals with disabilities, conducts the sorting process. The textiles are subsequently sent to Södra for recycling and processing into OnceMore pulp, a groundbreaking method for recycling blended fiber textile waste. Lenzing then applies its REFIBRA technology to produce innovative lyocell and viscose fibers.

Lenzing has been working in partnership with Södra since 2021 to promote circularity in the fashion industry. Their collaboration aims to develop methods for scaling up the use of cellulose-based used textiles on an industrial scale. The refined OnceMore pulp will serve as a raw material for Lenzing's specialty fibers, contributing to the company's goal of processing 50,000 tonnes of textile waste annually by 2027.

Lenzing's commitment to a circular economy is evident in its focus on giving waste a new life. Through innovations like REFIBRA and Eco Cycle technologies, the company aims to incorporate a significant portion of recycling material into its production processes, including cutting scraps from cotton production and second-hand clothing.

Rabobank Singapore's Global Strategist, Michael Every, has been announced as one of the esteemed speakers at the upcoming International Cotton Association (ICA) trade event in Singapore, scheduled for October 2023. The event, which is highly anticipated within the industry, will delve into the topic of shifting global architecture and its wide-ranging implications.

Michael Every, known for his insightful analysis of major developments and key thematic trends, has a wealth of experience spanning nearly 25 years. He has held significant positions such as director at Silk Road Associates, a Bangkok-based consultancy, senior economist/fixed income strategist at the Royal Bank of Canada in London and Sydney, and ASEAN economist for Dun & Bradstreet.

The Singapore 2023 trade event will be held on October 11-12 at the prestigious Raffles City Convention Centre. As a testament to its prominence, the event is expected to draw over 600 delegates from the cotton industry, including renowned figures and industry leaders.

The ICA's selection of Michael Every as a speaker underscores the significance of his expertise in understanding the evolving global landscape. With his presentation, Michael aims to shed light on the similarities between the current "Brave New World" and the familiar aspects of the "Old World."

Indonesia, at the last count in 2022, was the world’s 10th largest exporter of textiles. However, the Ministry of Industry’s April stats revealed in March 2023, textile exports rose by 16.87 per cent compared to February 2023. The government-funded Export Task Force is keen to make textiles and footwear exports important sources of revenue and foreign exchange. It is currently taking stock of the current scenario and working towards presenting a list of strategic policies for the Ministry of Industry to collaborate with entrepreneurs and implement.

Pay cuts and illegal imports

The jubilation of March 2023 has a dark side as stated by Directorate General, Chemical, Pharmaceutical and Textile Industry (IKFT) of the Ministry of Industry, Adie Rochmanto Pandiangan, the success could have been a result of reduced operational cost as the government allowed the textile sector to pay 25 per cent less to its workers to gain a globally competitive pricing. Over 3.7 million Indonesians work in this sector and were affected by salary cuts.

The other problem is the ongoing smuggling racket that floods the country with cheap and spurious textiles, adversely affecting domestic consumption of legitimately produced textile. To add to exporter’s woes, a large stock of second-hand and spurious textiles are being repackaged and exported as ‘Made in Indonesia’ apparels. Local government, councilors and the police are frequently busting such operations to curtail smuggling.

Challenges on the ground

According to Jemmy Kartiwa Sastraatmadja, General Chair of the Indonesian Textile Association (API), performance of the textile industry has dropped 30 per cent since September 2022. One of the most significant challenges faced by the Indonesian textile industry is competition from other foreign textile-producing countries such as China, India, and Vietnam. These countries have lower production costs and can produce textile products at a lower price than Indonesia. Indonesia’s textile and apparel export is forecast to decline by 10 percent from $12 billion in 2022 to around $11 billion this year, according to the Indonesian Fiber and Filament Yarn Producers Association or APSyFI. The association attributes exports decline to a 40-50 per cent fall in order value from overseas buyers. Therefore, the increase in March is being being seen as a flash in the pan.

US poses another challenge

Moreover, the current economic woes in the US is proving to be a looming threat as the world’s number one economy is tightening its belt, slashing spending which in turn is reflected in its domestic consumption. The US is the single largest importer of Indonesian textiles by far and the current drop in demand can only sink Indonesia’s textile export dreams. Also, some American importers were duped by spurious textiles and are weary.

Governmental support at its best

The majority of Indonesia’s total textile and garment production is to supply international demand, with 70 per cent of the output being exported. Before Covid-19, Indonesia ranked number six in worldwide textile output, and exports were valued at $13.8 billion in 2019, a significant increase from $10 billion the year before. The industry was heavily affected by the pandemic and textile and textile product exports dropped almost 52 per cent in May 2020 compared to previous year. Nevertheless, strong support and focus from the Indonesian government helped the industry recover. In the country’s development ‘asterplan “Industry 4.0’, the government is aiming to propel Indonesia among the top five textile producers in the world by 2030.

Swiss consumers are among the world’s largest spenders on fast fashion, with only Luxembourg spending more per capita.

Switzerland is a small country, but it has a relatively high population density, and with its high disposable income, it has become one of the world's largest spenders on fast fashion. According to a recent study by McKinsey, the average Swiss consumer buys about 15 kilograms of clothing each year, and the country has one of the highest rates of clothes shopping in Europe.

The impact of this trend on the environment is significant. Every year, Swiss consumers discard over 100,000 tonnes of clothes, contributing to the growing global waste problem. Only 6% of these clothes are produced sustainably, meaning that the vast majority of discarded clothes are made from synthetic materials that can take hundreds of years to decompose.

The problem is not just limited to Switzerland. The fashion industry is responsible for using vast amounts of water and toxic chemicals in the production process, leading to significant environmental damage. Textile treatment and dyeing alone account for about 20% of the world's industrial wastewater, which often ends up polluting rivers and oceans.

While some Swiss vendors are attempting to reuse materials and reduce waste, there is still a long way to go before sustainable fashion becomes the norm. Researchers like Katia Vladimirova are working hard to raise awareness about the environmental impact of the fashion industry, but they often struggle to secure funding and recognition in the field.

Ultimately, it is up to consumers to change their shopping habits and demand more sustainable fashion options. By choosing clothes made from organic or recycled materials and supporting brands that prioritize sustainability, consumers can help to reduce the environmental impact of the fashion industry and protect the planet for future generations.

Parachute pants and cargo pants, inspired by old-school military gear, have made a huge comeback in recent years, with sales increasing rapidly. Sales of parachute pants have increased by 181% year-over-year in 2022, according to retail intelligence firm Edited.

This trend is particularly popular among Gen Z consumers and has been fueled by social media attention and celebrity endorsements. Although the trend is currently favored in womenswear, there is an opportunity for brands and retailers to market the style in menswear too.

Along with parachute pants, cargo pants have also experienced a resurgence in recent years. Edited reports a 42% year-over-year increase in cargo pants sales in 2022. The Y2K trend has brought back other early 2000s fashion staples, including chunky sneakers and low-rise jeans.

The popularity of comfortable and practical clothing has also played a significant role in the resurgence of parachute and cargo pants. Post-pandemic, many consumers have shifted towards relaxed and functional clothing that can easily transition between indoor and outdoor activities.

Fast fashion and contemporary brands have been quick to capitalize on this trend, offering affordable options that appeal to younger consumers. In addition to The Attico, other brands such as Shein, Zara, and H&M have released their versions of parachute and cargo pants at varying price points.

The popularity of these styles is likely to continue in the foreseeable future, offering consumers comfortable and versatile options that are practical yet stylish.

UAE and Thailand have signed a joint statement, paving the way for negotiations on a Comprehensive Economic Partnership Agreement (CEPA) between the two nations. The inaugural round of talks is scheduled to commence in the UAE on May 16.

This landmark decision to establish a CEPA highlights the deepening ties between the UAE and Thailand, following the recent establishment of the first UAE-Thai Business Council in February 2023. The agreement aims to bolster bilateral trade and investment by creating new prospects across multiple sectors, including tourism, food security, IT, logistics, and financial services.

Of particular significance is the thriving trade relationship between the UAE and Thailand in the textile and garment sector. Both countries have been actively involved in exporting and importing textile products to meet their respective domestic demands as well as for international trade. The CEPA negotiations seek to further enhance bilateral trade, encompassing various sectors such as textiles and garments.

Underlining the importance of these negotiations is the UAE's growth agenda, which seeks to reinforce its position as a key facilitator of global trade, as well as Thailand's robust economy. Thailand, Southeast Asia's second-largest economy, is projected to experience a 3.8 percent growth in 2023, primarily driven by the recovery of its crucial tourism sector. With its well-developed services sector contributing 58.3 percent to its GDP, Thailand presents a promising market for economic collaboration.

The non-oil trade between the UAE and Thailand has witnessed substantial growth, surging by 21 percent in 2022, reaching a total of US$6.1 billion.

These negotiations with Thailand represent the latest significant achievement in the UAE's ambitious foreign trade agenda, which aims to double the country's foreign trade and national economy by 2031. Presently, the UAE has already concluded CEPA agreements with India, Israel, Indonesia, and Turkey, with the former two already in effect and the remaining agreements set to be signed in the near future.

The UAE is actively engaged in discussions with other strategically important markets, both regionally and globally, with the goal of establishing similar agreements that will further foster economic cooperation.