The 61st edition of the renowned international yarns and fibers exhibition, Filo ended in Milan with resoundingly positive outcomes. The vibrant ambiance across the booths and exhibition areas showcased high-quality collections from both Italian and foreign textile manufacturers, emphasising innovation and sustainability.

Buyer engagement was notably intense from the onset, with a substantial influx observed throughout the two-day event. Of significance was the increased presence of foreign visitors, affirming a trend witnessed across several editions and benefiting exhibitors from abroad. 

Notably, Filo collaborated with the ITA Agency to host a delegation of 27 foreign professionals from various countries, while the partnership with the Piedmont Region facilitated the attendance of 10 buyers from Belgium, Finland, France, Germany, the Netherlands, Portugal, and the UK. These participants were part of the Textile Integrated Supply Chain (PIF) Project, funded by P.R.FESR 2021-2027 through the Regional Agency for Internationalisation. Additionally, a group of buyers embarked on a study tour in the Biella district post-exhibition, immersing themselves in the region's production excellence.

Paolo Monfermoso, organiser, emphasises, Filo serves as a dedicated platform for industry professionals to facilitate collaborations and match supply with demand. The presence of dyeing mills, associations, and fiber producers at the exhibition fosters dialogue across the supply chain and encourages product innovation, he adds.

The central theme of the event was Circularity as evident from the inauguration ceremony's focus on the Recycling Hub pilot project in Biella district. Speakers at the roundtable discussed about sustainability, highlighting the need for alternative supply chains focused on recycling materials. Monfermoso praised the collaboration behind the Recycling Hub project, emphasising Filo's commitment to promote sustainable practices throughout the industry.

Promising another opportunity for industry stakeholders to drive innovation and sustainability forward, the 62nd edition of Filo is scheduled from September 18-19, 2024, at Allianz MiCo-Milan,

Despite not making a clear commitment to eliminate fur items from its production, renowned fashion and luxury goods brand Max Mara has been accused by Four Paws of concealing fur products within the intricacies of its website.

As the official representative of the Fur Free Retailer program in several countries, Four Paws, part of the Fur Free Alliance (FFA), has been tirelessly campaigning against the use of fur in fashion. With over 1,500 brands and retailers already committed to the program, Four Paws has been pressuring Max Mara to reconsider its stance on fur.

After weeks of intense campaigning, Four Paws claims that Max Mara has removed all fur items from its international website. However, the company has not publicly distanced itself from the practice nor committed to clear plans to phase out fur from its catalogs.

Thomas Pietsch, Head - Animals in Textiles, Four Paws, says, Max Mara's responsibility towards the sufferings of millions of animals cannot be ignored. Despite the removal of fur items from the website, the organisation continues to advocate for a fur-free future.

Founded in 1988 by Heli Dungler in Vienna, Four Paws envisions a world where animals are treated with respect and empathy. With offices and sanctuaries worldwide, the organisation highlights the growing global movement against fur production and sales. Many European countries, Israel, the US state of California, and several US cities have already implemented bans on fur.

Four Paws emphasises that Max Mara's actions come after sustained pressure from protests and online campaigns by partners in the Fur Free Alliance. The organisation vows to continue urging Max Mara to join other major Italian fashion brands like Armani, Gucci, and Versace in abandoning fur.

The global sports apparel market is poised to reach $75.6 billion by 2027, growing at a CAGR of 6.82 per cent between 2022-2027, as per a report by Technavio Research.

The market is expected to be dominated by industry giants like Adidas AG, Nike Inc., and Under Armour Inc with North America commanding 37 per cent of the global market share.

While offline avenues will thrive through specialty shops and department stores, e-commerce will emerge as a formidable force, reshaping buyer-supplier dynamics with its convenience and accessibility, as per the report 

From moisture-wicking fabrics to compression technology, the garments themselves will embody a fusion of function and style, mirroring the aspirations of athletes and fitness enthusiasts alike. Antimicrobial properties will ensure not just performance but also hygiene with sustainability emerging as a guiding principle.  Influencer marketing and brand collaborations will continue to influence brand preference.

Investors are urging Inditex, the owner of Zara, to adopt the transparency practices of its counterparts, H&M and Primark and publicly disclose its full list of suppliers. They believe, this will help investors better evaluate potential supply chain risks, especially concerning forced labor and fair wages for garment workers. 

Several prominent fashion brands such as Adidas, H&M, Nike, and Primark have already disclosed their detailed supplier lists, including factory names and locations. However, Inditex has provided only aggregated data on the number of suppliers without revealing individual factories.

In response to demands for improved disclosure, led by Dutch asset manager MN, Inditex investors are advocating for transparency regarding supplier lists and geographical locations. MN represents Platform Living Wage Financials, a coalition of institutional investors aiming to ensure fair wages for workers in the garment and footwear industries.

Founded by Amancio Ortega, Inditex remains tight-lipped about disclosing its full supplier list, emphasising its commitment to maintain high standards in the supply chain. Meanwhile, the company’s engagement with global trade unions and benchmarking initiatives like Know The Chain indicate some efforts toward transparency, but calls persist for broader disclosures. 

Investors like Swetha Ramachandran from Artemis Investment Management are emphasising on understanding the geographic distribution of Inditex's manufacturing operations to assess supply chain resilience.

Grace Su from Clearbridge Investments and Hannah Shoesmith from Schroders highlight the significance of supply chain disclosure amidst increasing focus on environmental, social, and governance (ESG) factors in investment decisions. Marie Payne from Cardano underscores the potential impact of improved disclosure on investment choices.

In its Annual Session for 2023-2024, Confederation of Indian Industry (CII) Punjab announced the appointment of Abhishek Gupta, Chief – Strategic Marketing, Trident as its new Chairman while Amit Jain, Managing Director,  Shingora Textiles has been appointed as the new Vice-Chairman.  

Dr PJ Singh, Past Chairman, CII Punjab and CMD, Tynor Orthotics, handed over the leadership baton to Gupta emphasising on the importance of nurturing a culture of innovation through R&D and fostering partnerships with academic institutions. He expressed confidence in Gupta's ability to empower Punjabi businesses to thrive globally.

Acknowledging the relevance of ongoing industry issues championed by his predecessor, Gupta assured that these concerns, alongside other pressing matters, would remain central to the agenda during his tenure.

As Chief – Strategic Marketing, Trident, a $1 billion flagship company, Gupta has been pivotal in driving the company’s success. He spearheaded several initiatives to optimise corporate functions and enhance supply chain management, propelling Trident's global expansion to over 150 countries.

With over 26 years of entrepreneurial experience, Jain has adeptly transformed a traditional family handloom shawl business into a modern, technology-driven enterprise. His strategic foresight helped position Shingora Textiles as an innovative industry leader, poised for continued success.

SM Mannan Kochi, Secretary General-Dhaka North City, Awami League, is poised to be appointed as the new President of the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA). 

Currently serving as the Senior Vice President within the BGMEA's existing board, Mannan is slated to become the 20th president of this pivotal body representing apparel exporters.

Under Mannan's leadership, the Sammilito Parishad, a coalition he spearheads, achieved a sweeping victory in the BGMEA election for the 2024-2026 term. The coalition secured all 35 director positions, receiving votes from 90 per cent of BGMEA members, totaling 2,226 out of 2,496.

Held on March 09, 2024, the election witnessed the defeat of the Forum panel led by Faisal Samad, failing to secure any director positions. The polling stations in Dhaka and Chattogram saw high voter turnout, with 70 candidates vying for the 35 available director positions.

Notable contestants included three former presidents of the Dhaka Chamber, among whom Shams Mahamud emerged victorious while Asif Ibrahim and Osama Taseer faced defeat. Mannan Kochi contested for the presidency under the Sammilito Parishad, endorsed by outgoing president Faruque Hassan, while Faisal Samad led the Forum panel, supported by former president Rubana Huq.

Overseen by a three-member election board headed by Jahangir Alamin and an appellate board led by Kamran T Rahman, the BGMEA's election process commenced on December 4, 2023. The tenure of the current board, extended twice by the government, was originally set to conclude on April 12, 2023.

The Ministry of Commerce first extended the tenure by six months, followed by an additional extension of another six months, granting the present committee a total extension of one year.

Moscow Fashion Week concluded with a dazzling display of creativity, showcasing over 16 collections from Russian and international designers. The event presented a vibrant mix of styles, from bold grunge to romantic elegance, with a special focus on the fusion of Western and Eastern aesthetics.

The ramp at the fashion week was dominated by local designers, each offering a unique perspective. Gods Passion channeled a rebellious spirit with leather and denim, while Kolchuga embraced mystery with dramatic appliques and lace. Urban Romance offered a softer touch with flowing fabrics and lace blouses. General VI challenged the status quo with innovative takes on traditional designs, while Topaza Pella from St. Petersburg explored classic elegance with black and white trouser suits.

Adding a touch of global fair were international designers with Indian presence being particularly strong. NBC showcased a modern, wearable range while Geisha Design presented dazzling evening wear inspired by traditional saris. Serbian designer Darya Kipriyanova pushed boundaries with transformable clothing that allowed for quick outfit changes, a concept gaining traction for its sustainable aspect.

Besides established names, emerging talents like Measure from Makhachkala presented a modern take on history with his collection of Dagestani clothing. TimShee from Kazan presented a minimalist men's line with a Japanese influence. The week culminated with Ianis Chamalidy's versatile’The Art of Living’ collection blending classic and avant-garde elements.

Consolidating its position as a platform for diverse voices in fashion, the Moscow Fashion Week proved to be a testament to the seamless fusion of global trends with local traditions, showcasing innovative design that pushes the boundaries of what's possible.

The European Free Trade Association (EFTA) nations have the potential to act as a bridge for the Indian textile and apparel industry to access the European market. The EFTA comprises Iceland, Liechtenstein, Norway, and Switzerland, all of which boasts of strong economic ties with the European Union (EU) through the European Economic Area (EEA) agreement. This agreement eliminates tariffs on most industrial goods, including textiles and apparel, traded between EFTA and EU nations.

Trade agreements between EFTA and Europe

The EEA agreement serves as the cornerstone of trade relations between EFTA and the EU in textiles and apparel. It ensures:

Duty-free movement of goods: Most textiles and apparel products can be exported and imported between EFTA and EU countries without any customs duties. Additionally, some EFTA countries have bilateral free trade agreements (FTAs) with the EU that further liberalize trade in specific sectors.

Harmonized standards: Both sides adhere to common technical regulations and safety standards, simplifying product compliance procedures.

Free movement of labor: Textile and apparel companies in EFTA can leverage the skilled workforce across Europe for enhanced production capabilities.

Textile and apparel trade between EFTA, EU 

The EU is a major importer of textiles and apparel; imports reached €161 billion in 2022. This signifies a significant market opportunity for Indian exporters. And EFTA countries hold a significant share. Switzerland, for instance, is known for its high-quality textiles and clothing exports to the EU. India on the other hand is a leading textile and apparel producer, offering a wide range of products at competitive prices. By partnering with EFTA nations, Indian manufacturers can gain easier access to the lucrative EU market. While EFTA countries themselves might be smaller markets compared to the entire EU, they can serve as a stepping stone for Indian textile and apparel exporters.  By establishing a presence in EFTA nations, Indian companies can benefit from duty-free access to the wider European market, gain valuable insights into European consumer preferences, and potentially build stronger relationships with European buyers.

Points to ponder

While EFTA presents a promising gateway, there are challenges to consider.

‘Rules of Origin’ is one of them. Companies must comply with specific rules of origin to qualify for duty-free access within the EEA. These rules ensure products originate from EFTA or EU countries. Competition is another factor. The European market is highly competitive, with established players from various regions. Indian manufacturers need to focus on quality, innovation, and cost-effectiveness to stand out. Also, efficient logistics are crucial for timely delivery across Europe. Partnering with EFTA companies with experience in navigating the European market can be beneficial.

Indeed, EFTA countries hold immense potential as a gateway for the Indian textile and apparel industry to access the European market. Leveraging the existing free trade agreements and strategic partnerships can pave the way for increased trade flows and mutual benefit. However, Indian exporters must be prepared to address challenges related to rules of origin, competition, and logistics for a successful foray into the European market through EFTA.

The recent Moscow Fashion Week pulsed with a renewed energy, showcasing the rising prominence of Russian designers on the global fashion stage. This year's event wasn't just about showcasing stunning clothes; it was a testament to the resilience and creativity of the Russian fashion scene in the face of change.

A flourishing of homegrown talent

Gone are the days when Moscow Fashion Week was dominated by established names. This year, a wave of fresh talent took center stage, bringing a unique perspective to the runway,  highlights this shift, mentioning designers from cities across Russia like Yekaterinburg, Kaliningrad, and Ulyanovsk presenting their collections alongside international brands .

Bold statements and cultural tapestry

The collections themselves were a kaleidoscope of bold colors, innovative silhouettes, and a touch of nostalgia for traditional Russian design elements. While the focus wasn't solely on traditional dress, many designers incorporated subtle nods to their heritage through rich fabrics, embroidery techniques, and reimagined historical silhouettes.

Standout trends

• Power dressing with a twist: Sharp tailoring and classic silhouettes were given a modern update with pops of color, unexpected textures, and asymmetrical hemlines.

• Sustainable chic: Eco-conscious design was a major theme, with designers using organic materials and upcycled elements to create unique pieces.

• The return of knitwear: Cozy knits were given a luxurious makeover with intricate detailing and unexpected layering.

Designers to watch

• Liza Okhor: This rising star's collection featured bold prints and playful textures, with a focus on empowering femininity

• Jan by Janina: Offering a contemporary take on traditional Russian craftsmanship, Jan's collection used hand-woven textiles and intricate embroidery to create truly unique pieces

• Gat? : Pushing the boundaries of gender-fluid fashion, Gat's collection offered a fresh take on suiting and outerwear

A bright future for Russian fashion

Veteran designer Slava Zaitsev spoke at the event about the challenges faced by the industry due to sanctions, but remained optimistic about the future: "We will find a way. We are a creative nation" . The outpouring of talent and innovation at Moscow Fashion Week is a testament to that creativity. Russian fashion is no longer on the rise – it has arrived, offering a unique voice and a fresh perspective to the global fashion conversation.

Garment manufacturers in Indore are seeing a 40 per cent drop in orders due to a new rule requiring payments to suppliers within 45 days. 

The garment industry typically operates on a much longer payment cycle. However, as a result of the new rule, manufacturers are being forced to cut back on production just ahead of the peak demand season, which starts around Eid. 

Ashish Nigam, President, Readymade Textile Dealers Association says, the new rule makes clearing dues within 3 months a difficult task. The payment terms are forcing retailers to cut down on orders. 

Readymade garments manufactured in Indore are supplied across the country with Tamil Nadu, Kerala and Andhra Pradesh as major markets sharing over 60 per cent of market share.

Due to the new rule, orders from Madhya Pradesh, Gujarat, Maharashtra and Southern India have declined. This is forcing most garment units to reduce manufacturing during the peak demand season amid confusion and doubts over the 45 day payment limit.

A hub for ready-made garment manufacturers, Indore has over 1,500 small and medium sized garment producers and festivals are the peak business season for the sector.