Cotton prices in India have reached all-time highs of Rs 45,000 and since then have been rising continuously.
The rise in prices is attributed to the cut in import duty from the Indian government. Till now, 5 percent of Customs duty and 5 percent of taxes have been waived off until September 30 to ensure or allow cheaper cotton imports.
Prices in the global markets have also continued to rise. Shipments from the biggest exporter of yarn and cotton products, China declined by nearly 9 percent in March on a year-on-year basis.Hence, lower exports, lower supplies from India and the US, and strong demand will continue to drive the rise in cotton prices across the world.
As in past editions, Italian Trade Agency and ACIMIT, the Association of Italian textile machinery manufacturers, will participate in the upcoming Techtextil exhibition.
In all, 29 companies will exhibit in the Italian pavilion. Of these, the ACIMIT associated companies will include 4M Plants, A Piovan, Aeris, Bombi, Bonino, Color Service, Corino, Cubotex, Fadis, Ferraro, Gualchierie Gualchieri, Kairos Engineering, Lawer, Loptex, Mcs, Mesdan, Monti-Mac, Noseda, Salvadè, Sariel, Srs, Stalam,.
Other ACIMIT member companies exhibit with their own booths outside the Italian Pavilion.
In the 2022 edition, the focus of Techtextil will be on sustainability, which is another strong point of Italian textile machinery.
The Hong Kong Research Institute of Textiles and Apparel (HKRITA)’s critically acclaimed project, the Garment-to-Garment Recycling System (G2G) has swept up two more prestigious international design awards: the Gold Award of the IF Design Award 2022 in the Retail/Sales category in mid-April and the Good Design Awards 2021 (Retail Fitting) of The Chicago Athenaeum in December 2021.
The iF Design Award is one of the most prestigious design awards in Germany and this year attracted nearly 11,000 submissions from all over the world to this highly respected competition. Of the many submissions, only 73 finally obtained a Gold Award. To achieve this level of recognition, a submission must excel in terms of conceptualization, form, function, differentiation and impact. G2G’s zero water use was commended as a sustainable upcycling solution. “This ingenious system opens up the prospect of ad-hoc and on-site-recycling systems in a variety of locations,” the jury noted.
The G2G also won the Good Design Awards 2021 in the Retail Fitting category. Organized by The Chicago Athenaeum, an International Museum of Architecture and Design, this competition received over 1,100 submissions from more than 50 nations.
Set up as a mini-factory at The Mills, a modern retail space in Hong Kong in 2018, the G2G is the world’s first post-consumer garment recycling system that operates in a retail space. It is a textile recycling line installed in a 40-foot container and enclosed in double glazing, which permits direct observation of the process that upcycles post-consumer clothes into clean and wearable new garments.
Two Japanese sewing technology giants Juki Corporation and Pegasus Sewing Machine Manufacturing have joined hands to launch their first sewing machine model. Known as M900/DJ, the machine series includes Differential Lower Feed Safety Stitch Machines and Overlock Machines with integrated Control box, reports Apparel Resources
The machines are a part of the ‘Juki Smart Solutions’ product lineup. These compact machines are integrated with the direct-drive motor, control box and operation panel. Pneumatic lint collector (LC) and presser foot lifter (PL) and operator friendly LED lights. They can automatically set thread trimming function by detecting the edge of material with sensor. Equipped with a safety function to prevent false operation, the machines prevent the SMOs (sewing machine operators) from mistakenly cutting material and getting injured by false operation.
Juki plan to initially launch these machines in certain countries before expanding them to other markets.
Aditya Birla Group company Grasim Industries has achieved highest sustainability score in the 2021 Capri Global Capital Hurun India Impact 50 list. The list includes top 50 India-based companies that have been ranked based on their alignment with the United Nations’ 17 Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs). Grasim Industries achieved a sustainability score of 47, contributing towards 17 SDGs last year.
In all, only 14 companies, featured in 2021 Capri Global Capital Hurun India Impact 50 list were able to achieve their sustainability goals against all 17 UN SDG pillars last year. The list does not include any specific textile company. Jinisha Sharma, Social Impact & Strategy, Executive, Capri Global Capital hopes, the report will inspire more companies to adopt sustainability in their operations. Companies innovating to benefit stakeholders have good prospects ahead. More companies will participate in this list in coming years.
Farrukh Qankhari, Acting President, Korangi Association of Trade and Industry (KATI) has appreciated the Pakistan government for setting up the Textile Council for the development of the textile sector. As per a report by The Nation, KATI believes, the Council would help boost textile exports by identifying issues plaguing this sector and presenting viable solutions for them. Qandhari says, KATI had always raised its voice against previous government’s anti-textile policy and the burden of taxes.
Pakistan Single Window and Customs and People’s Republic of China have launched a Joint Working Group or a single window cooperation and integration between Pakistan and China. The Joint Working Group will devise the coordination mechanism and facilitate technical discussion between the two sides for proposed integration, says the United Business Group.
Both sides can also detect under and over invoicing and counter trade based money laundering through data exchange mechanism, it adds. The integration between the two single windows would boost economic activities between the two countries and expedite clearance of goods. The formation of the JWG will makes the business community of both the countries more confident, adds UBG.
Chic organizers have decided to postpone the spring edition of the event in Shanghai due to a surge in COVID cases. Meanwhile organizers are focusing on the autumn edition to be held from August 29-31, 2022 at the National Exhibition and Convention Centre.
Organizers are revising the trade fair concept for the next edition, which is expected to attract around 900 exhibitors. They will introduce CHIC Livestreaming to provide information on relevant topics during talks with industry experts on social media. Chic List of the best section of the trade show will also be launched. Based on industry research, it will showcase best practices and particularly successful brands in the areas of research and design, cultural values, technical innovation, etc.
CHIC is organized by Beijing Fashion Expo Co and China World Exhibitions and sponsored by China National Garment Association, China World Trade Center and SubCouncil of Textile Industry (CCPIT).
Bestseller plans to source man-made cellulosie fibers and direct-to-farm cotton across its supply chain in partnership with TextileGenesis. Owner of Jack & Jones and Vero Moda brands, Bestseller has scaled the new blockchain solution around traceability in collaboration with TextileGenesis on several successful pilot projects. The brand will trace the fibers in approximately 25 million garments from raw material to end product, as per a Fashion Network report.
Danique Lodewijks, Senior Project Specialist, Bestseller Sustainability opines, the collaboration will help them ensure transparency and validation for a significant part of fibers and products. It will also help comply with new regulations being brought in by the European Union. From 2024, the EU will make it mandatory for each product to have a digital passport, with information about the product’s environmental sustainability.
Alongside a group of key suppliers, Bestseller is currently embarking on the first part of the platform's implementation phase. The brand will gather feedback from suppliers to create a workable and scalable system for the entire supply chain. It will be web-based cloud solution designed specifically for the fashion industry to trace fibers as they move along the supply chain. All products in the system will be made of multiple fibers that would go through a spinning, weaving, dyeing and manufacturing process.
The system will be energy efficient and not rely on the large servers that characterize some blockchain technologies such as cryptocurrency-based platforms.
Despite advancements made in the front-end apparel production, manufacturers rarely pay attention to the complete lifecycle of goods. As per a Sustainable Brands report, the industry accumulates millions of tons worth of surplus inventory every year. Most of the deadstock is a result of over-purchasing, faulty production, misprinting and decorating flaws. The industry has been unable to find a suitable solution to dispose off deadstock. Excess inventory keeps piling shops as customers return damaged goods, broken size runs/one-offs, dated goods, failed designs, and even social-justice initiatives.
It is not possible for manufacturers to recycle deadstock as it requires more resources compared to other consumer goods. In addition, recycling can also reduce the garment’s quality and value. Hence, less than 15 per cent clothing in the US is currently recycled.
As an alternative to this, the industry needs to adopt upcycling in addition to existing sustainable practices. Upcycling can boost a brand’s circularity approach by turning its unsold inventory into completely new products.
Upcycling process requires very little energy and water. Its environmental impact is minimal and enhances the quality and value of a product. Many niche fashion brands such as Beyond Retro, Re/Done and Zero Waste Daniel, are introducing new initiatives for apparel repurposing. However, large manufacturers, retailers and fashion brands with robust sustainability programs in the up-front production process have little to no best practices in place for managing their enormous volumes of new, unsellable merchandise.
Since upcycling adds a new step in apparel production, many companies are unable to upcycle merchandise in-house. Hence, a sub-industry of upcycling partners is emerging across the world. Urban Outfitters has launched an Urban Renewal initiative to expand its upcycling capacity. The company plans to divert waste products to New York-based Fabicrap. It also aims to create an accessible materials resource for creative communities.
Patagonia has collaborated with LA-based Suay Sew Shop to launch a new Recrafted collection. The Recrafted collection is made from damaged goods that have been turned into entirely new, one-of-a-kind products. Brands including Champion and Pottery Barn have collaborated with the Renewal Workshop to repair unsold goods.
The name change adopted by Washington Commanders made branded merchandise deadstock overnight. To resolve inventory issues, the Girl Scouts of America decided to launch more sustainable uniforms and a responsible solution for the existing inventory on hand. The company approached New Redford-based organization to help transform unsold, obsolete merchandise into new fashion apparel and accessories.
Shifting to a new business model requires adequate time, education and distribution. However, upcycling creatively reimagines deadstock by putting large volumes of surplus merchandise back into the marketplace. This helps the industry improve customer satisfaction, workforce capacity and the environment.
In contrast to regular fashion market, the global kidswear market has been growing in a robust fashion for the last two years. Statista reports, the global infant and toddler wear market has been growing at 3.7 per cent since 2018 and is projected to reach $239 billion in 2023. Segment growth will be dominated by girls’ wear, projected to reach $132.3 billion by the end of analysis period while boys’ wear will grow at 2.8 per cent CAGR.
China’s kidswear market is projected to grow at 6.7 per cent CAGR from 2020-2027 to reach $68.8 billion. The US market is projected to reach $78 billion in 2022, says a Textile Today report. The garment industry has faced several disruptions over the last two years as many export orders got cancelled. Now, the pandemic is easing across Europe and the US though fresh cases are being reported in India and China.
The global apparel industry has also been hit by the ongoing Russia-Ukraine for the past few weeks. Brands including H&M, Mango, Zara, Marks & Spencer and Nike have shut Russian stores and suspended online operations. The war is preventing fashion retailers from selling garments Russia. Buyers are either suspending orders or diversifying to other markets. However, growth in the kidwear market has accelerated riding on demand for branded clothes for kids, parents’ rising incomes, growth in the number of e-commerce channels, rising social media awareness, etc.
A number of children’s clothing brands have risen across the globe to cater to growing market needs. Most prominent us Carter’s, a US-based brand established in 1865 with 17 per cent of the US baby and infant market. The brand sources $200 million worth knitwear and denim garments every year. Its online business surged 35 per cent during the pandemic.
Another popular kidswear brand is Okaidi which purchases 10 million knitwear items and 30-35 woven/denim items from Bangladesh every year. The brand has emerged one of the most trusted brands amongst kids as it did not cancel any orders from Bangladesh during the pandemic. British retailer Mothercare also sources around 50 million pieces’ from Bangladesh. The retailer generated revenues of £164.7 million in 2020, reveal Statista figures. Other popular kidswear brands are: H&M Kids, Zara Kids, Walt Disney, M&S etc.
Post-COVID, around 24 per cent parents have opted for sustainable or eco-friendly apparels for kids. Also the choice is inclined towards knits rather than woven garments as knits offer more variety. Boy’s polo, deflated or bat sleeves, printed T-shirts, sweatshirt sets, and rompers are emerging most popular styles globally. Unique prints like polka dots, photo prints of animals and flower themes are also gaining popularity amongst consumers as are apparels with optimistic and meaningful slogans.
Denims are also gaining in popularity with kids opting for washed blue jeans, colored denim jackets and distressed or embellished soft denims. Knit denims are also becoming popular with kids opting for knit tops, fancy and wide-leg trousers, rompers, skirts, cargo pants, decorative frilled tops, etc. Nordic kids are going in for heavy weighted padded jackets while others are buying light jumpsuits, coats, and hoodies.
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