Viscose, often dubbed ‘artificial silk’ earlier, has a long and complex history in the textile industry. A regenerated cellulose fiber, it's made from wood pulp or other plant materials, offering a luxurious drape, breathability, and a soft handfeel that often mimics natural fibers. However, traditional viscose production has faced numerous environmental challenges. Today, the industry is witnessing a shift, with cutting-edge developments in viscose manufacturing pushing towards enhanced comfort, functionality, and, critically, sustainability, making it a truly high-performance natural-look alternative.

A quest for better fibers

Viscose (also known as rayon in North America) was first developed in the late 19th century as a more affordable and accessible alternative to silk. Its natural cellulose base gives it many desirable properties akin to cotton and silk, including good absorbency, softness, and excellent dyeability. However, the conventional viscose production process, known as the "xanthate process," is chemical-intensive and can be highly polluting.

The current wave of innovation aims to overcome these limitations by improving environmental footprint. Which involves, addressing the chemical usage and water pollution associated with traditional methods. Another innovation being looked at is enhancing performance that is boosting properties like wet strength, wrinkle resistance, and durability, which were traditionally weaknesses of viscose. Achieving even more refined and consistent appearances and textures that rival high-end natural fibers is also an ongoing process.

Developments shaping the future of viscose

The evolution of viscose has led to the emergence of advanced generations of regenerated cellulosic fibers, primarily Modal and Lyocell. These represent significant leaps in both performance and sustainability:

Modal: Also considered second generation viscose is developed from beech wood pulp, Modal fibers undergo a slightly different treatment after spinning that enhances their strength and durability, particularly their wet strength. This makes them more resilient to washing and less prone to shrinkage or distortion than traditional viscose. Modal is renowned for its exceptional softness, smooth handfeel, and excellent moisture absorption, often described as having a "silky" or "cotton-like" feel.

Lyocell seen as third generation viscose is widely considered the most sustainable of the regenerated cellulosic fibers, Lyocell is produced using a "closed-loop" solvent-spinning process. This method, often using N-Methylmorpholine N-oxide (NMMO) as a solvent, recycles up to 99% of the water and chemicals, significantly reducing environmental impact. Lyocell fibers (famously branded as Tencel by Lenzing AG) are known for their strength, breathability, superior moisture management (they absorb moisture more uniformly than cotton), and a very soft, smooth handfeel. They also exhibit good drape and wrinkle resistance.

Advanced pulp sourcing: Emphasis is increasingly placed on sourcing wood pulp from sustainably managed forests (e.g., FSC or PEFC certified) that utilize renewable resources like eucalyptus, beech, and bamboo, which require less water and pesticides than cotton.

Enhanced finishing technologies: Beyond fiber development, innovative finishing processes are being applied to all types of viscose fabrics to further improve their handfeel, drape, and add specific functionalities such as anti-microbial properties or enhanced cooling effects.

Fiber modifications: Research continues into modifying fiber cross-sections and surface structures to further control luster, texture, and moisture transport, mimicking natural fibers with even greater precision.

Inherent challenges

However, the journey to perfecting viscose has involved tackling several inherent challenges:

Environmental impact of conventional viscose: The traditional viscose process uses hazardous chemicals like carbon disulfide and sulfuric acid, leading to air and water pollution if not properly managed. This is being overcoming with development and widespread adoption of closed-loop processes for Modal and especially Lyocell dramatically reduce chemical discharge and water consumption. Companies are investing heavily in cleaner production technologies and sustainable forest management certifications for their pulp sources.

Wet strength and dimensional stability: Conventional viscose loses significant strength when wet and can be prone to shrinking or stretching. However, now Modal fibers are engineered with improved wet strength, making them more durable for washing. Lyocell, with its highly uniform fiber structure, boasts even greater strength and excellent dimensional stability, leading to less shrinkage and better shape retention.

Wrinkling: Like cotton, conventional viscose can wrinkle easily. But advanced finishing treatments and improved fiber structures in Modal and Lyocell contribute to better wrinkle recovery and resistance, making garments easier to care for.

Cost and scalability of sustainable alternatives: The newer, more sustainable processes for Modal and Lyocell can be more expensive than traditional viscose production. As demand for sustainable textiles grows, economies of scale are improving. Major manufacturers are continuously optimizing their processes to reduce costs while maintaining high environmental standards. Brand and consumer demand for eco-friendly products also supports the higher price points for these advanced fibers.

Traceability and transparency: Ensuring that the wood pulp used comes from truly sustainable and non-deforesting sources. Therefore, certifications like FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) and PEFC (Programme for the Endorsement of Forest Certification) are crucial. Companies like Lenzing are leading the way with advanced traceability systems, including fiber identification technologies, to ensure ethical and sustainable sourcing throughout the supply chain.

Commercial successes

The market has embraced advanced viscose fibers, driven by consumer demand for comfort, aesthetics, and sustainability.

Lenzing AG (Tencel): Lenzing's Tencel brand (which encompasses Lyocell and Modal fibers) is a global leader and perhaps the most prominent success story. Their fibers are widely adopted by major fashion and home textile brands for a variety of applications, from activewear and denim to luxury apparel and bedding. Lenzing highlights the closed-loop production, traceability, and softness of their fibers.

Tencel in denim: Tencel Lyocell has revolutionized the denim market. Traditionally, denim could be stiff and heavy. By incorporating Tencel™ Lyocell, brands like Levi's, G-Star RAW, and Reformation have created denim that is incredibly soft, breathable, and drapes beautifully, without compromising the rugged aesthetic. This has opened up new possibilities for comfortable and luxurious denim products. In fact, Lenzing reported strong growth in their cellulosic fibers segment, driven by the increasing demand for sustainable and high-performance materials. Their strategic focus on specialty fibers like Tencel and Lenzing Ecovero (a more sustainable viscose option) has been key to their success.

Birla Cellulose (Livaeco by Birla Cellulose): A major player in the global cellulosic fiber market, Birla Cellulose has invested significantly in sustainable technologies. Their Livaeco brand represents a range of sustainable viscose, modal, and lyocell fibers produced with lower environmental impact, including reduced water and GHG emissions. They offer full traceability from forest to fashion. Birla Cellulose has partnered with numerous international and Indian brands to integrate Livaeco fibers into their collections, emphasizing softness, fluidity, and eco-consciousness.

EcoVero Viscose (Lenzing AG): While Lyocell and Modal are advancements, Lenzing also offers EcoVero viscose, which is a more environmentally responsible version of conventional viscose. It uses less water and emits fewer greenhouse gases compared to generic viscose, with certified sustainable wood sourcing. This provides a more sustainable option for brands still seeking the specific characteristics of viscose.

Table: Viscose developments for enhanced performance and sustainability

Comparative properties of conventional viscose, advanced viscose (Modal/Lyocell), and natural fibers The table below illustrates how the properties of advanced viscose fibers bridge the gap between traditional viscose and popular natural fibers, offering a compelling blend of characteristics.

Table: Comparative properties of regenerated cellulosic and natural fibers

Viscose growth path is firmly set on sustainability and advanced performance. Further innovations are expected in developing new bio-based feedstocks beyond traditional wood pulp, exploring fibers from agricultural waste, and continuing to refine the closed-loop systems for even greater efficiency. The goal is to solidify viscose's position as a truly sustainable and high-performance fiber that not only rivals but, in many applications, surpasses the comfort and aesthetics of conventional natural fibers, without the associated environmental burdens of older production methods. As the industry continues to prioritize circularity and responsible manufacturing, advanced viscose fibers will play a pivotal role in shaping the future of textiles.