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If the Indian apparel industry plays its cards right there is a big vacuum to be filled, considering some of India’s apparel exporting neighbors are in trouble. While apparel firms look for newer markets, what would really work, according to Narendra Goenka, Chairman, Apparel Export Promotion Council (AEPC), is filling the vacuum left by countries such as Sri Lanka, Pakistan, and Myanmar.

Volume could be a little lower but there is an opportunity in terms of the challenges in neighboring countries, says the Apparel Export Promotion Council.  Pakistan is going through a tough time for energy. In Sri Lanka, the situation is dire. Sri Lanka’s exports are expected to go down by 15 per cent or 20 per cent. Myanmar has labor issues going on.

However there are challenges. Cotton prices have cooled down a bit but apparel makers have got a minimal respite from the dip in raw material costs. Customers especially from traditional big markets like US and Europe have been asking for discounts. Customers want a ten per cent to 15 per cent reduction in finished product prices but Indian exporters cannot lower prices by more than eight per cent or ten per cent. Then there is the impact of a weakening rupee. There are some headwinds in terms of the real recession in India’s traditional markets, the US and Europe.

 

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Première Vision was held in France, July 5 to 7, 2022. The physical fall/winter show marked industry-wide acceleration and cooperation in addressing climate impact in the fashion supply chain. At a time when global warming is already impacting supply — intense droughts have damaged cotton crops in both the US and India this year — the global textile fair made environmental performance a priority.

Meanwhile, designers applauded the global textiles fair’s major calendar change to July from September. They felt July was much better for sourcing since lead times are much longer now. Menswear designers, with little break from showing to starting the next collection, lauded the switch. They were able to combine winter ’23, spring ’24 and winter ’24 at the July show, which meant they did three seasons.

Despite being held between two airport strikes, with a city transport strike during its second day, 23,000 fashion professionals visited the show, up ten per cent versus February, with double that number logging on to the digital marketplace. There were almost 1,200 exhibitors, up by a third from the September 2021 show. Almost 70 per cent of design teams were international, with a marked return of US and South Korean visitors. Brands and exhibitors from China, Hong Kong and Taiwan remained absent due to quarantine rules.

 

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India will have a presence at Apparel Textile Sourcing Canada from August 22 to 24, 2022. Apparel Textile Sourcing Canada is the only major international trade show in Canada that brings together Canadian buyers and sourcing professionals and suppliers from all over the world. IT brings retailers, wholesalers and online/ e-commerce resellers in contact with manufacturers in dozens of product categories, and it is a premier destination to meet international apparel, textile, home textile and decor, fashion and fabric manufacturers and leaders. It is a venue to meet apparel and fabric buyers, sourcing directors, designers, merchandisers, retail chains, department stores, and more.

Apparel has a 50 per cent share in India’s textile and apparel exports to Canada. This is followed by home textiles and fabrics having a share of 50 per cent and eight per cent respectively. Over the years, apparel production in Canada has fallen while imports continue to increase. So India has a huge scope for expansion of apparel exports to Canada. 

ATSC is the only international sourcing event focused on the Canadian and North American apparel, textile and fashion sectors. The product profile covers fashion accessories, men’s and women’s apparels, garments, children’s apparels, intimate wear, denim, home textile and decor, bedding and bath, leather and footwear, apparel fabrics and yarn, shawls, scarves, knits, cotton, garment accessories and many more.  

 

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India has made some changes to the ITC HS codes. HS codes related to yarn, fiber, garments and some other goods have been amended. For instance the GI patented Lucknow chikan craft will be now referred to as embroidery. Changes have been made to the textile sector’s most important chapter 62, which covers cotton garments. Changes have also been made under HS codes 54 (polyester), 55 wood fiber (viscose), 56 manmade filaments, 58 cotton embroidery, 59 (geo-technical textile- knitted or woven) and 60 synthetic fibers.

The Harmonised Commodity Description and Coding System generally referred to as Harmonised System or simply HS is a multipurpose international product nomenclature developed by the World Customs Organisation (WCO). These are six-digit codes which cannot be altered unilaterally by any country. But the eight-digit code (after adding two digits at the end) can be changed. In India, the eight-digit codes known as ITC (HS) code/Indian Trade Classification/ Indian Tariff Code are developed and maintained by the Directorate General of Foreign Trade. The ITC (HS), 2022- Schedule-1 (Import policy) has been brought in sync with the Finance Act, 2022. The notification to introduce, delete, amend, split or merge ITC (HS) codes has come into effect immediately

 

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For the latest quarter, Gap’s net sales declined 13 per cent. The apparel maker’s share price has fallen 50 per cent this year as it struggles to win back shoppers. The retailer, which also owns the Banana Republic and Athleta brands, anticipates adjusted operating margin percentage to be zero to slightly negative in its second quarter. Gap expects margins to suffer partially because of increased promotions in the quarter, part of a more aggressive approach to balancing its merchandise offerings. The company expects net sales in the quarter to be down in the high single-digit range, which is relatively in-line with its prior expectations. It forecast a hit from transitory air freight expenses and inflationary costs on raw materials and freight. Gap missed analysts’ quarterly revenue and profit targets several times during the pandemic as it tried to find success in an apparel market reshaped by Covid-19 and fast fashion brands.

Gap is the latest in the retail sector to suffer from snarled supply chains and shifting consumer demand. US retailers are wrestling with the changing demands of post-pandemic American shoppers. In May, Target slashed its outlook for the quarter because of excess inventories and announced plans to implement markdowns and cancel orders.

 

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British luxury fashion brand Burberry is closing its flagship store in Hong Kongb ecause of strict Covid restrictions customers have been unable or unwilling to come to the store for purchases. Canton Road in Hong Kong is considered a hub for luxury brands and is home to the Harbour City shopping mall. It was a bustling destination for tourists who visited the Mainland before the pandemic led to closures, quarantines and shutdowns across the nation and around its borders.

Iconic plaid-patterned retailer Burberry opened its Canton Road flagship in 2011. The closure leaves Burberry with ten stores across Hong Kong. Other brands like Valentino, Tiffany & Co and Coach have also shut stores because of a lack of tourists. Earlier this year, Hong Kong’s strict Covid-19 restrictions during the height of the spread of the omicron variant led to widespread retail and restaurant closures.

In January, during Men’s Fashion Week in France, Burberry’s higher quality business saw its full-price sales rise 26 per cent in the quarter versus comparable 2019 levels, while its total same-store sales slid three per cent as a result of its planned exit from markdowns at its stores and website.

 

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Ghana is receiving support from the UK to transform high-potential sectors, including garments and textiles. The UK-Ghana partnership for Jobs and Economic Transformation (JET) helps create the needed policy environment to drive investment into these sectors so that they can operate at their fullest potential, generate wealth and generate employment. Factories are being financed to enable them to return to their days of full operation and production. One such factory which is being helped on its feet now employs 750 workers instead of about 2,000 earlier.

In general Ghana is making efforts to recover after the Covid pandemic. This includes hiring an additional 38,000 nurses, waiving employee taxes and providing free water and electricity to millions of households. Several policies have been launched in the field of taxation. First, exemption of VAT on certain textile products is expected to increase the profits of business actors and expand their production. Second, reviewing reduction in import duty rates on all goods; the goal is that the policy of reducing import duty tariffs that are currently in effect can be more efficient and on target. Third, the reduction of the VAT rate on gold sales from unprocessed miners from three per cent  to 1.5 per cent. 

 

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Gokaldas Exports encountered a challenging business environment in fiscal 2022. The Delta wave in the first quarter, Omicron wave in the early fourth quarter and logistics disruptions throughout the year were testing times. High raw material prices for both cotton and manmade fiber products, the war in Europe and inflation in key markets were additional headwinds. Going forward, the company anticipates that the free trade agreement (FTA) with the UK by year end and the FTA negotiations with Europe will present a good opportunity. With a diversified customer base, the company anticipates a higher growth of its non-top five accounts. With consumer getting back to work and socializing, Gokaldas sees woven products  gaining traction.

Global garment retailers are asking Indian exporters to reduce apparel prices as cotton prices have dropped 16 per cent and the rupee has devalued against the dollar. If recessionary trend in key markets of US and Europe continues, there could be a reduction in apparel exports for spring 2023, which can negatively impact the order book of Indian apparel exporters. Meanwhile Indian exporters are trying to mitigate the impact as they look to tap new markets in Latin America, Australia, Japan and UAE. 

 

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U.S, Polo Assn. is the mew apparel partner for the British Beach Polo Championships. That means U.S. Polo Assn. outfits the polo players in custom jerseys, provides staff attire as well as branded caps for attendees, social media competitions, and global promotion of the event across various digital platforms. 

U.S. Polo Assn. is the official brand of the United States Polo Association. British Beach Polo Championships, also known as Sandpolo, is the largest beach polo event in the world. A twist on traditional polo, Sandpolo is played with an oversized orange ball designed to be easily seen in the sand but still move at a high speed. British Beach Polo Championships is now in its 15th year. Sandpolo takes place on the shores of Sandbanks Beach, a prestigious destination known for its luxury properties and pristine sand. 

The UK is one of U.S. Polo Assn.'s fastest growing markets and the brand partners with the British Beach Polo Championships to showcase a version of polo in a great destination. By aligning its growth strategy with Sandpolo, U.S. Polo Assn. takes the opportunity to expose new fans and global consumers through an amazing experience to the sport of polo and the authenticity of the U.S. Polo Assn. brand.

 

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Big fashion brands continue to grow with new partnerships and collections

After last year’s record number of partnerships, the fashion industry is witnessing a few big partnerships this year as well. Some major partnerships are from design houses like Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Prada, Balenciaga, etc.

The first of these partnerships includes the collaboration of Kanye West and Gap’s Yeezy Gap with Demna Gvasalia, Creative Director, Balenciaga for the Yeezy Gap Engineered by Balenciaga collection. And as Woman’s Wear Daily report reveals, the first collection from the collaboration comprising eight styles was released in February 2022. The prices ranged from $120 to $440. Second collection from the collaboration was released this May. 

Adidas and Prada unite for a Re-Nylon collection

Before Gap released its collection, Prada and Adidas united once again in January to launch Adidas for Prada Re-Nylon collection. It offered refurbished Adidas Originals Forum sneakers in high and low versions besides track jackets, tracksuits, sweaters, hoodies and bucket hats.

Balmain collaborates with Barbie

In January, Olivier Rousteng, Creative Director, Balmain also launched his design house’s collection in collaboration with Barbie. The 70-piece collection ranges from logo T-shirts to couture evening gowns. Made in shades of pink, the collection incorporates some of Balmain signature designs like sailor sweaters, tweeds, denim jackets and cocktail dresses. It also includes handbags designed like windowed cardboard boxes housing Barbie dolls.

Manolo Blahnik, Birkenstock merge designs

In March 2022, two iconic footwear brands, Manolo Blahnik and Birkenstock, teamed up to launch a capsule collection that merged both the brand’s design principles. Offering six garment pieces, the collection includes three styles of the Birkenstock Arizona sandal in velvet fuchsia and blue, as well as black leather, and three styles of the Birkenstock Boston clogs offered in the same color shades. Both styles are embellished with crystals on the buckle.

Burberry launches spring 2022 collection

In the same month Burberry launched its spring 2022 collection in collaboration with Supreme. Featuring trenchcoats, puffer jackets, denim trucker jackets, rugby shirts, hoodies, jeans, denim shorts, T-shirt, hats and skateboards, the collection blends Burberry’s signature plaid print with Supreme’s streetwear designs..

Disney, Givenchy team up 

Mathew Williams, Creative Director, Givenchy teamed up with Disney for a collection titled ‘The Wonder Gallery,’ in May.  The collection launched with a range of T-shirts and hooded long sleeve T-shirts featuring Disney’s iconic characters. A second collection will be launched this summer.

Fendace hits stores with two collection

Known as Fendace, the Versace and Fendi collaboration hit stores in May this year. The collaboration has launched two collections: Donatella Versace’s Fendi by Versace collection and Kim Jones’ Versace by Fendi collection.

The Fendace collaboration offers apparel, shoes and accessories that merge Versace’s iconic Baroque print and safety pins with Fendi’s signature “F” logo. 

Adidas’ merges designs with Gucci’s color palette

This June, Gucci launched its Adidas x Gucci collection offering women’s and menswear pieces across apparel, shoes, accessories, jewellry and lifestyle pieces. The collection fuses Adidas’ three-stripe designs with Gucci’s classic red and green color palette. The collection is priced in the range from $235 to $4,200.

Louis Vuitton and Nike launch ‘Air Force 1’

Louis Vuitton teamed up with Nike in May to launch nine editions of its Air Force 1 sneakers collection. The brand also organized an exhibition for Abloh at Greenpoint Terminal Warehouse in New York City during May.

New collection under Farfetch Beat concept

Opening Ceremony and fashion designer Peter Do collaborated in June to launch their collection under its new concept Farfetch Beat. The collaboration offers three versions of Opening Ceremony’s signature varsity jacket, merging their classic designs with Do’s spacer material. The collection also includes an upcycled varsity jacket.

 

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