Fresh allocation of funds sought for Jute
The ministry of textiles and jute (MoTJ) has sought a fresh allocation of over Tk 3.55 billion from the government for the state-run Bangladesh Jute Mills Corporation (BJMC), officials said. The amount of money will be spent on jute procurement by BJMC and payment of its different dues Earlier, the government released had released Tk 4.60 billion in favour of BJMC. Besides, it also released Tk 2.70 billion to help the state-run entity in purchasing raw jute and paying gratuity and wages to its employees recently. It is very difficult for cash-strapped BJMC to operate jute mills even after payment of its all dues. The corporation has set target to procure 2.57 million bales of raw jute in the current fiscal year (FY) 2016-17. An amount of Tk 12 billion will be required to meet the procurement target, according to the data available with BJMC. At present, BJMC is the biggest employer in the industrial sector of the country. It provides direct jobs to about 70,000 workers as well as 5,500 officers and employees supporting the livelihood of around 6.0 million farm families. More than 50 million people are directly or indirectly involved with jute and jute industry. The state-run entity is operating 26 mills, including three non-jute industries. There are seven mills in Dhaka zone, ten in Chittagong and nine in Khulna.
Cotton farmers in Zimbabwe appeal for help
Cotton farmers in Zimbabwe have expressed displeasure with the poor and inadequate input package being provided. The farmers say there has been a continuous disregard of their concerns by some companies and in turn they have approached government for help. Such claims also give credence to assertions by analysts that some private companies are not providing adequate inputs just to warrant their presence at buying points. The cotton sector, which supports about 400 000 households, had virtually collapsed with production declining to record lows at 30 000 tonnes last season, the lowest since 1992. This season, the government came up with a $50 million inputs package but fears are growing that it could lose the bulk of the contracted crop through side marketing. Based on distributed seeds, the minimum crop size would be around 110 000 tonnes. Already, there are growing concerns that some private companies might have overstated cotton inputs they gave to farmers to obtain buying licenses during the selling season.
Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia kicked off
"Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia kicked off here at Moscow yesterday on March 12. The opening show was attended by Alexander Kibovsky, Minister of Government of Moscow, Head of Department of Culture in Moscow Government."
Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia kicked off here at Moscow yesterday on March 12. The opening show was attended by Alexander Kibovsky, Minister of Government of Moscow, Head of Department of Culture in Moscow Government.
The Fashion Week opened with Detskiy Mir Fall-Winter 2017/2018 collection Born to Be a Rock Star. Daring and bright clothes of rock musicians reflecting to the rebellious kids' spirit, designer made the most use of glam, punk, hard rock and casual attributes that are so typical for contemporary indie-rock. Gleaming skirts and sneakers, pink ballerina skirts, headbands, leggings, denim jackets with patches, monochrome T-shirts with prints, black leather jackets and bombers with rolled up sleeves - using numerous pieces of this design kit one can put together a lot of interesting looks.
Evening wear for kids and teenagers were presented by the design duet Kibosvskaya & Pablosky. The catwalk featured princes in three-piece suits of thick silk and princesses in veil ball dresses. Oriental and European themes mixed in the garments: feathers and sequin with lace and flounces. Mauve and plum shades were balanced by sky-blue, turquoise and violet.
The collection L’erede was inspired by the street art. Cozy dresses coupled with leather jackets, cable-knit sweaters, ballerina skirts, 'business-like' two-piece suits - for every day, and sport costumes – for special events, every set beamed with freedom and bright individuality. Through the prism of colors, the collection looked calm and peaceful - powder pink, warm greyish brown, airy blue, white and dusty pink.
Fall-Winter collection Arcturus from Vadim Merils was all about lightness, moves, clear lines, precise cuts. The collection displayed garments for progressive youth, street stylers and trendsetters of the Big city. Military came alongside with glam-rock, and casual with clubbish wear items. Symbol of the collection is the Arcturus star that shines for all those in love, reckless and daring.
Character of the Fall-Winter collection from Dimaneu showed a girl who might have steeped out from Vrubel's the Swan Princess: incomprehensible and unforgettable. The collection featured traditionally minimalistic set of colors: garnish red, cool blue, dark-blue, white and all-absorbing black. The keynote of the collection was embroidered flock of birds and prints depicting fairytale princess. The silhouette balances from one edge to another: it is either stretched and straight, or made of puffy draping with underlined delicate waist.
Business style in the big city was demonstrated by Chapurin for Finn Flare. Shirts with petal sleeves, puff jackets and oversize dresses, loose pants with creases proved well that business environment could be comfortable. Among the highlights of the collection were large bows on the bags, massive scarves and hoods. Principal colors of the collection were steel grey, scarlet, black and emerald green.
Highlight of the Fashion Week Slava Zaitsev presented his Fall-Winter collection 2017. Signature style of the master could be traced in the entire line: from the outwear to evening gowns pret-a-porter de luxe. Luxurious garments with outlined silhouettes, trendy outwear made of jacquard and colored wool cloth, three-piece suits and cocktail dresses - feminine attributes were highly praised in the collection, even to the degree of the cult. The highlight of the collection was the bride's dress laced with fancy headwear.
Yulia Nikolaeva created an intellectual shell for a city girl. Straight cuts, A-shaped silhouettes, with one or two major color tones - seemingly simply elements gave birth to the multilayer floppy looks. The illusion has been completed with neat accessories - belt bags, backpacks and clutches. Winter-like dark but warm and thick shades of brown are emphasized by the color of ice coffee with milk.
Collection Fall-Winter 2017/18 from Alexandr Rogov impressed with the complexity and challenges: asymmetric dresses come along with costumes made of brocade, light semi-transparent blouses and skirts with finishing. Main feature of the collection was branded elastic bands.
In the presentation corner, Igor York showcased a line of handmade bags with the texture of steel 'buzz'. Acute and perfectly matching color of the bags allowed to shift an emphasis to the shape. Backpacks, wallets, clutches, hobo and satchel bags shine but due to precise lines look neat and minimalistic.
Virtual solutions from technology provider Tukatech
Tukatech has launched the enterprise edition of its Tuka 3D system for virtual product development for Indian enterprises and fashion designers. This edition includes all the high-functioning 3D development capabilities at a more attainable price.
As the necessity for new technologies and processes becomes increasingly more apparent in the apparel industry, designers and manufacturers of all sizes are turning to 3D solutions to increase efficiency in product development and enable effective global communication.
US-based Tukatech, provides fashion technology solutions for the garment and apparel industry. The California apparel industry uses TUKA systems extensively for digital pattern-making, grading, and marker-making. The company hopes to see a similar phenomenon in India with the onset of a more economical edition of Tuka.
Vendors, brands, and retailers worldwide implement Tuka 3D in their product development process. With this they can reduce product development time from 90 days to only seven days or increase the first sample acceptance rate from about 93 per cent to 99.8 per cent.
Not only does Tuka 3D provide an exceptional 3D product development solution, users can also take advantage of Tuka cloud, the web-based sample room for digital collaboration. This solution serves as a database of virtual samples and is also a communication platform that enables product development to take place in a digital environment reminiscent of the traditional design process.
Surat textile shop owners unhappy with dual tax
Textile shop owners in Surat have been asked to pay property tax for the shelf space created inside the shops for storing the grey fabrics and finished stock. They want the dual property tax on textile shops to be abolished. Most shops in the textile markets have been built at a height. Shop owners have created shelves to store the bundles of grey fabrics and finished stock since there are no huge storage godowns.
A dual tax was imposed on the textile shops having storage shelves. The property tax department was asked to consider the shelves as godown and thus shop owners were asked to cough up dual tax — the entire shop as well as the shelf area. Shop owners in the textile markets say they have been paying the dual property tax since 2014 but most textile markets still do not get an adequate water supply, lack basic amenities and have to contend with an unhygienic environment.
Owners have purchased shops from realtors who built the textile markets. The textile industry in Surat is mainly engaged in yarn production, weaving, processing as well as embroidery. The Middle East is the major export market for Surat's textile products.
Pakistan jump starts textile exports
Pakistan’s textile exports have slumped and one of the major reasons for poor performance of the sector is the failure to cope up with technological advancement. Conversely, Bangladesh and Taiwan have adopted state of the art technology and captured a significant chunk of the international market.
In order to boost falling exports of textiles and garments, the sector has been injected with funds. In addition, export financing rate offered to the textile sector stands at 3.5 per cent, the lowest in the last 10 years. The sector has been the lifeline for Pakistan’s exports. The country is the fourth largest cotton producer in the world. Moreover, Pakistan also has the largest spinning capacity in Asia after China and India.
Pakistan wants to do exports of $35 billion dollars by 2018. The top five textile sectors have been given a zero-rated sales tax regime. Sales tax and customs duty on imports of textile machinery and cotton have been abolished. A number of projects of power generation through hydel, coal, solar, wind, and other resources have been initiated.
New export destinations including Mexico, Central Asia, Africa and Doha are being looked at. About 60 per cent of Pakistan’s exports go to ten countries, namely, USA, China, UAE, Afghanistan, UK, Germany, France, Bangladesh, Italy and Spain. Right now Pakistan’s exports to South America, Africa, Central Asian Republics and Russia are less than ten per cent of the total exports of Pakistan.
Bolt Threads launches neckties made of spider silk
Bolt Threads will release a limited edition knit necktie made of 100 per cent Boltspun spider silk—the first spider silk product ever available for purchase. The unisex tie is 100 per cent spider silk made by humans using the company’s proprietary technology.
The company, based in the US, was incepted in 2009 out of a curiosity about natural spider silk and the idea of engineering novel protein materials. Through its proprietary technology, the company has developed a way to closely mimic silk created in nature for mass commercial production, pioneering more sustainable and non-toxic processes for textile manufacturing.
Bolt Threads, a biotechnology company, is creating the next generation of performance fibers and fabrics using proprietary breakthroughs in industrial biotechnology. Working at the molecular level, Bolt Threads will transform the textiles market, turning renewable raw materials into products with outstanding properties that meet specific consumer needs.
Spider silk’s qualities are nearly mythical. Its tensile strength is comparable to steel’s. Yet it is lighter and can be as stretchy as a rubber band. A real spider generates silk in specialized glands in its abdomen, and creates the silk strands using a spinning organ called a spinneret. Synthetic spider silk could be used for everything from automobile parts to medical devices to performance outdoor gear.
Monforts to display at Techtextil
Monforts’ coating modules can be used with or without a magnet system. The coating systems are available in four versions – basic, multi-functional, universal and multi-functional. The coating units will be displayed at an exhibition for technical textiles and nonwovens, Techtextil in Germany from May 9 to 12, 2017.
The basic version offers manual adjustment in two positions for air knife and roller knife coating and printing without magnet for working widths of up to 240 cm. The multi-functional version with two position manual adjustment is designed for magnetic knife coating with a working width of up to 240 cm and screen printing.
The universal version features motorised adjustment with three positions for foam coating, roller knife coating and magnetic knife coating; for working widths above 240 cm. The fourth, multi-functional version, with three position motorised adjustment, has been designed for direct fabric feed coating applications using printing templates and operating modes with roller knife and magnetic knife.
The Monforts coating range texCOAT incorporates knife over roller/air system; magnetic roller system; as well as printing head systems. Designed for constantly changing technical textile coating process applications, the systems coating modules can be quickly and easily changed by a specially designed undercarriage from the side of the unit, allowing it to be adapted for different applications.
Lanka to do value-added exports
Sri Lanka is moving toward exports of value added products. So processes in the industry are becoming more machine-operated and adopting advanced technologies and machineries. Labor will be trimmed down by 20 per cent. Production may be outsourced to countries such as Bangladesh, Vietnam or Ethiopia while value creation and addition will be done domestically.
So the country is moving towards becoming a sourcing hub with regard to the apparel export industry and in the process reducing the export of non-value added or low-value added garment products while introducing increased industrial technological modernization. Sri Lanka is in no position to depend on the apparel exports industry as countries like Bangladesh which have cheaper labor are more competitive in the apparel export sector and market.
But though Sri Lanka is unable to be price-competitive and is also held back by way of the constant and acute shortage of labor, it could on the other hand capitalize on being internationally recognized in terms of quality and delivery. Quality can be developed by way of moving towards more and more value added products while cheap garments can be absorbed into the domestic market. Sri Lanka is the largest source for Victoria’s Secret lingerie and women’s wear.
A small Chinese village shows the way in selling yarn online
A few years ago, most of the 2,000 or so villagers in Donggaozhuang, northern China, were struggling to put food on the table by growing wheat and corn. Now, dozens of them are millionaires and more on well on their way of making six-figure fortunes after switching to selling yarn online.
Donggaozhuang’s success story started with the idea of one villager, who set up an e-shop on Taobao, China’s largest online commerce platform, to sell yarn. Things went way better than he had anticipated, and in just three months, he had made a small fortune.
Word of his booming business spread like wildfire around Donggaozhuang, and the village elders soon approached the man, asking him to teach other members of the community how to set up their own online businesses. Since yarn had worked so well for Donggaozhuang’s first online entrepreneur, everyone followed in his footsteps and they all started making money. They started buying wool, turning it into yarn and selling that on Taobao.
But Donggaozhuang isn’t the only rural success story to come out of China. Nanliu, a small village in Shaanxi province, has become known as China’s stock trading village after many local farmers switched to trading stocks online.
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May edition of Fespa to host seminars for industry professionals
Germay will host Fespa from May 8 to 12. This is an event for sign-making, digital, screen, industrial, textile and interior printing industries. There will be a series of seminars delivering key insights and market knowledge.
The seminar program covers a range of topics, focusing on the use of digital, screen and textile print technology in a variety of scenarios. Delegates attending these seminars have exclusive access to specialist learning opportunities, insights and discussions with respected industry figureheads, who will be on hand to provide their knowledge and understanding across a wide portfolio of printing applications.
The seminar program allows industry professionals gain access to and discuss a mix of technical and business knowledge, ensuring individuals have the tools to take their print business to the next level. Covering topics from direct-to-garment and promotional products to industrial inkjet and business solutions, the program is specifically tailored to the needs of attendees, delivering professional insight that can help to shape and transform industry practice moving forward.
Also the best wrappers from around the world will showcase their skills to win the title of world wrap master. The competition will see 36 wrappers battle it out to be crowned European Wrap Master 2017. During the wrap masters final, the wrappers will wrap a speedboat, with the final design being created by the winner of Fespa’s wrap design competition, which is running ahead of the exhibition.
Pakistnan: Exporters want refunds cleared fast
Exporters in Pakistan want refunds to be done urgently. They say the cash flow crunch is causing problems, denting the country’s exports and impairing textile capacity. They stress the need to reform the tax system and make it export and trade friendly. They want gas supply at fair prices.
Other issues include the high cost of doing business, including high withholding and indirect taxes, and a distorted import tariff structure; weak implementation of export promotion measures; lack of coordinated support from formal institutions at federal and provincial levels; the relatively high cost of energy vis-a-vis regional economies; and an exchange rate regime that hurts exporters.
Exporters say an export-oriented industrial policy is needed with a focus on broader institutional support to exporters along with a duty-free regime for inputs and a strategic collaboration between public and private sectors. Small and medium enterprises need to lend financial and technological help with a focus on operational management skills, financial assistance, innovation, and technological upgradation.
The country’s falling competitiveness is also driven by poor trade facilitation, infrastructure gaps, inefficient logistics and poor investment climate. Export competitiveness can be improved by making use of the country’s GSP Plus status and bilateral and regional trade agreements, for example, with China, Malaysia, and Sri Lanka.
Bangladesh looking for restoration of GSP
Bangladesh is hoping the US restores the GSP facility and has been making repeated requests for it. But the country has to fulfill conditions including a transparent database, workers’ rights and safety and implementation of labor laws. Bangladesh’s $25 billion garment industry has been facing scrutiny since the 2013 Rana Plaza tragedy, in which more than 1,100 people were killed.
The US suspended GSP facility on grounds of factory safety and workers' rights concerns. Against this backdrop, thousands of factories were inspected and dozens closed over safety concerns. Suspension of GSP means enhanced duties on exports of Bangladesh to the US. At present, more than 7,000 factories in Bangladesh are producing goods for the global fashion business. Many of those are small- and medium-sized factories, workers of which indirectly produce goods for foreign brands through larger factories.
The US is the single largest export market for Bangladesh. GSP was established by the US in 1976. The aim is to promote exports of low income countries to industrialized countries in order to support their economic growth and development. The beneficiaries of GSP include all South Asian countries like India, Pakistan, Nepal, Sri Lanka, Bhutan and Afghanistan. Only Bangladesh remains excluded.
In the race to win, it’s about co-opetition for intimates and athleisure
Golobal intimates market keeping pace with athleisure trends—and in some cases, the two categories are considered teammates rather than competitors. Millennials are attracted towards ‘bralette’ of late — easy to wear, cost effective and more comfortable. For Pattie Ficorilli, Senior Account Manager, intimate apparel and swim, North America for Invista, the appeal is easy to recognize. They are pretty, lacy and meant to be seen. It’s a different way to think about your intimate apparel that we haven’t seen in a long time. It’s a return to femininity.
Golobal intimates market keeping pace with athleisure trends—and in some cases, the two categories are considered teammates rather than competitors. Millennials are attracted towards ‘bralette’ of late — easy to wear, cost effective and more comfortable. For Pattie Ficorilli, Senior Account Manager, intimate apparel and swim, North America for Invista, the appeal is easy to recognize. They are pretty, lacy and meant to be seen. It’s a different way to think about your intimate apparel that we haven’t seen in a long time. It’s a return to femininity.
For Guido Campello, CEO, Cosabella, comfort is key. To him, bralettes represent a more fundamental change in body image. The surge in interest in bralettes doesn’t seem to be fading. Ficorilli says bralettes are fuelling a larger ‘casual bra’ market, which includes sports bras. These comfortable, less structured garments are taking a cue from the ease we all crave thanks to our activewear-infused closets. In fact, Ficorilli compares athleisure’s influence on intimates to the way foam cup revolutionised the bra market decades ago.
Buzzing innovations
Whether it’s seamless, lace, microfiber or nylon, fibre companies are finding new ways to appeal to crossover crowd by pilling on the performance characteristics. For instance, Invista’s Lycra fibres which when blended with nylon, offer moisture management, support and odor control. Similarly, Hyosung’s Creora Fresh is an odour neutralizing spandex, while its Mipan AquaX nylon features cooling and moisture management. Ria Stern, Global Marketing Director, Hyosung Textiles, points out the influence between intimates and performance wear goes both ways. There are sports brands using technology originally developed by intimate apparel—around sizing, molding, stretch and recovery—in sports bras and underwear categories that are performance oriented. At the same time, intimate apparel is going after sports-inspired collections, taking advantage of consumers’ interest in something comfortable and functional they can wear all day.
Apart from these attributes, Molly Kremidas, Nilit America’s marketing manager, says the focus is now on weights epecifically lighter the better. Whether it’s in shaping or loungewear, development is happening within super microfibres that provide a hand that is really quite luxurious. And it’s not just about the fibres being light weight but even the construction like in a seamless garment where there’s bonding to give it a sleeker look or lighter weight look.
The credit for these lightweight materials goes to mills, which are constantly innovating. They are investing in finer gauge equipment, which is linked to the trend of super lightweight types of fabric. Cosabella feels that it’s going to texture rather than prints hogging the limelight in 2017. Ready-to-wear fabrications like velvet and cashmere are also emerging, especially on bodysuits.
Variety that counts
There’s a wide variety of fibers and fabrics now and everyone agrees this variety is a must. Cosabella has been diversifying its fabric portfolio owing to the burgeoning demand. Cosabella approaches product development with four main consumer profiles in mind, and offers product specifically for occasions like maternity and bridal. Hitting these major milestones allows Cosabella to be a sentimental choice, which makes consumers more willing to spend.
According to Stern, today’s consumer is smart and they understand enhanced product characteristics aren’t cheap. Pricing is an issue but if there is an attached value, the consumer is willing to pay a premium. And the shift will help customers too. Ficorilli says the current bralettes are letting women down in the shape and support departments. If you are not making the right fabric selection, they aren’t going to perform to consumer standards. But if it fits right and provides the right functionality, consumers will pay more.
