IDEA 2019 Conference pledges to promote nonwovens
Leaders from the global nonwoven associations held a joint strategy meeting at the IDEA 2019 Conference, in Miami Beach, Florida March 26, 2019 to advance coordination on two key issues common to all: free and fair trade in nonwovens, and the growing concern about plastics in the environment and the need for coordinating messaging on the issue. The shared vision of the association leaders is to effectively represent, protect, and actively promote common interests of nonwovens and their related industries throughout the world.
The first step in advancing free and fair trade in nonwovens has been achieved with an updated and uniform nonwoven definition recently approved and published by the International Organization for Standardization (ISO) 9092:2019. The new definition establishes nonwovens without reference to “Textiles” as did the previous definition and introduces the concept of an engineered material.
The group agreed to encourage the adoption and use of this definition in the Harmonised Commodity description and Coding System (HS) to achieve a more relevant classification of all nonwovens and nonwoven articles in tariff classifications.
The group was presented with INDA’s overview of how growing public concern about Plastics in the Environment can impact nonwovens with some guidelines on how to manage the issue. Additionally, EDANA presented the current state of play on the European Union Single Plastics Directive and its development of Extended Producers Responsibility.
Bangladesh to hold 10th edition of Denim Expo in May
The 10th edition of Bangladesh Denim Expo will be held on May 2 and 3, 2019 at the International Convention City Bashundhara, in Dhaka, Bangladesh. The show will offer fashion buyers and international denim insiders a sourcing platform and a hub for meeting colleagues, making new contacts and starting agreements. This edition will host various informative events including roundtables, seminars and talks for discussing and in-depth analysis on the hot topic of “Circularity.”
Beides Bangladeshi businesses, other exhibitors will be from Italy, Turkey, Japan, Pakistan and India, among others. Among the more than 60 exhibitors will be Artistic Milliners, Bossa, Denim Expert Ltd, Garmon Kemin Group, Jeanologia, Kilim Group, Naveena Denim, Officina+39, Orta, Pacific Jeans, Raymond Uco Denim, Soorty Textiles, The Lycra Company, Tonello, US Denim Mills and Vicunha Textil to name a few.
The second edition of Bangladesh Fashionology Summit will be held on May 2, 2019 at the International Convention City Bashundhara. The initiative will inspire the Bangladeshi apparel industry facing the global market’s future challenges. This edition’s theme will be “Digitalisation – The next destination” and will present views and remarks of global experts about how the apparel industry in Bangladesh can evolve thanks to technology. About 25 expert insiders from 13 countries from all over the world will express their opinion within five different sessions of the single-day event. Speakers will include representatives for international embassies and political authorities, and managers from C&A Foundation, H&M, Lectra, Marks & Spencer, Pacific Jeans and Pioneer Denim, etc.
Beams, Levi’s team up for Japanese-indebted reversed denim capsule collection
Japanese retailer Beams and American denim giant Levi’s teamed up for ‘The Inside Out Collection.’ The seasonal capsule includes classic Levi’s pieces, including 501 denim jeans, a western shirt and a trucker jacket, flipped inside-out. The collection also features reversed “guarantee” stamps normally found inside the garment. Each piece is finished with exposed stitching to emphasise the reconstructed nature of the garments.
The exposed construction is most noticeable on the 501 jeans, with the classic cut sporting its trademark selvedge and stamped branding on the outside of the leg where they normally would be on the inside. Other notable pieces from the capsule include an inside-out denim kimono, a nod to Beams’ Japanese heritage and a T-shirt printed with reversed co-branding and replete with external seams.
Knitted footwear grows at five per cent
Global market for knitted footwear is growing at a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 5.9 per cent. These shoes have knitted uppers. The upper part of the shoe is made using machine knitted fabric. These shoes have become increasingly popular among the younger generation owing to the high influence of sports. Other factors are the improvement of living standards, overweight and obesity-related health issues.
The casual shoe segment dominates the knitted footwear market. Based on distribution channels, the specialty store segment is the highest contributor to the knitted footwear market in terms of value and is estimated to grow at a CAGR of 4.4 per cent from 2018 to 2025. Based on type, the running shoe segment is expected to grow at a CAGR of 7.1 per cent from 2018 to 2025. Based on distribution channel, the e-commerce segment accounts for less than a one-third share in the segment and is estimated to grow at a CAGR of eight per cent.
Key players in the knitted footwear market are Adidas, Asics, Fila, New Balance, Nike and Puma. They are focusing on new product launches, improving the product portfolio, overcoming the competition and maintaining or improving their share.
India, South Africa, China protests against US-EU proposal
India, South Africa and China have protested against a joint US-EU proposal to punish countries that have not followed notification requirements under various World Trade Organization (WTO) agreements. The countries feel it is unfair to impose harsh requirements on developing countries facing deep capacity constraints, and are reminiscent of colonial era rules. As a part of proposed reforms to the global trade body, the US and EU, along with Japan, Canada, Australia, Costa Rica, Argentina and Taiwan, on April 11, sought to impose stringent notification requirements, including financial penalties, on countries for failure to comply.
At the meeting of WTO’s Council on Trade in Goods (CTG), the US justified the proposal on grounds of “chronic low level compliance with existing notification requirements under many WTO agreements (by members)". It seeks to allow “a counter-notification of another member concerning notification obligations". Under this practice, deemed controversial by many countries, a WTO member can issue a counter-notification against a member, claiming the latter had breached its commitments under that specific WTO-agreement.
Recently, the US had filed counter notifications claiming New Delhi’s subsidy schemes, especially minimum support prices for rice, wheat and cotton, breached India’s scheduled subsidy commitments to the WTO.
India, however, rejected the US stand saying it was based on flawed assumptions and erroneous practices. The counter-notification by the US on Indian grains and cotton was based on data from American farm lobbies, which reckon India as a major threat to its subsidised-exports to countries.
Cashmere World 2019 focuses on sustainability, supply chain and creative designs
Coinciding with the beginning of cashmere harvest season in China, this year Cashmere World was held concurrently with APLF 2019 in Hong Kong from March 13-15, 2019h. Similar to other events held during APLF, sustainability, consolidation of the supply chain and the demand for more creative designs were the three major trends that marked the event.
Recently, the governments of China and Mongolia, issued and enforced very strict environmental protection rules, intensifying scrutiny on cashmere production operations, and subsequently decreasing the number of breeding goats and cashmere output. This situation resulted in a spike in prices that was reflected at Cashmere World. According to the Schneider Group’s recently released annual cashmere market reprot, another factor affecting cashmere prices was the increasing demand for lamb in China; with higher prices for lamb meat, goats reared for fibres were supplanted by sheep, reducing cashmere production.
Sustainability led manufacturers to increasingly buy cashmere directly from nomad families without involving middle men, allowing them to trace the cashmere in terms of location as well as quality. This resulted in a consolidation of the supply chain. There is growing pressure to meet new standards before the industry besides creating an internationally acceptable industry body which sets standards and fights its corner.
Another clear trend that emerged at the event include need for more creative and diverse designs along with increased fabric blends and mixes that sell in summer and thus extend the sales season. In the past, brands used to provide their own design to their suppliers. Today, they expect their suppliers to suggest new creative designs and to provide them in smaller quantities. This presents a challenge to manufacturers who henceforth need to become more fashion oriented and flexible in terms of quantity.
India’s cotton production may fall seven per cent
India’s cotton crop production may fall 7.87 per cent in the 2018-19 season. Drought in many cotton-growing regions of Gujarat, a few regions of Maharashtra and a few areas in other cotton growing states has affected the yield. Though the crop size is smaller this year in comparison to last year, the cotton supply position is comfortable with a big ending stock of 40 lakh bales. Thanks to a big opening stock, smaller exports and large imports, the production deficit is well covered. As for the crop situation next year, the highly remunerative kapas (cotton) prices during the current year and the monsoon projection would induce Indian farmers to prefer to grow more cotton.
Due to these factors, cotton prices are likely to remain steady and range-bound. Early monsoon and import arrivals in India may create downward pressure on cotton prices from June 2019. The cotton crop output for the previous season ended September 2018 was 370 lakh bales. The worst output in the past 12 years stood at 348 lakh bales, higher than the current season’s projection of 343 lakh bales. The Cotton Corporation of India has started selling its stock, which will further increase liquidity in the cotton market. A six per cent rise in global cotton production is expected for 2019-20.
India: Cotton textiles exports help reduce trade deficit
India’s exports of cotton textiles have reduced its trade deficit with China. Exports of cotton textiles from February to April 2019 increased 69 per cent over the same period previous year. China is an important trading partner for India and imported $65.22 billion worth of goods and exported goods worth $15.10 billion for this period, recording an all-time high in exports and sharp decline in imports from China. The trade balance between the two countries in the year 2017-18 was $63.05 billion in favor of China, which has now lowered to $50.13 billion.
Among the few items in which India is more competitive than China is cotton based textiles like yarn, fabric and made-ups. Exports of cotton textiles from India can increase further if the tariff disadvantage of 3.5 per cent to 10 per cent suffered by India in comparison to Vietnam, Pakistan, Indonesia etc on textile products is addressed by making special efforts. Higher exports of cotton textiles including fabrics and made-ups can not only contribute to the significant reduction of trade imbalance but also lead to attracting investments from labor intensive industries shifting out of China.
Brexit hampers Bangladesh UK exports
Bangladesh’s export earnings from the UK during the first half of the current fiscal year rose by 3.16 per cent. The slowdown in the UK economy due to uncertainty over Brexit is seen as a reason for such a sluggish export growth. In the last fiscal year, Bangladesh’s export earnings from the UK rose by 11.76 per cent. In the earlier fiscal export growth to the UK was 12.63 per cent. Bangladesh’s exports to the United Kingdom are likely to go up by ten per cent if the UK is ultimately forced to leave the European Union without a deal.
The EU has granted UK a six-month extension to Brexit. The new deadline is October 31. China has been projected to be the largest gainer of a no-deal Brexit. The second biggest winner would be the United States. Japan can also expect to gain. A no-deal Brexit is also expected to result in increased imports into the UK from Thailand, South Africa, India, Brazil, the Russian Federation, Vietnam and New Zealand, among others. The largest losses would accrue to the EU countries, given that they are the most economically integrated with the UK. Turkey, South Korea, Pakistan, Norway, Iceland, Cambodia and Switzerland are also at risk of seeing a decline in their exports.
Bangladesh: Accord gets relief from court, to stay till May
Accord has been allowed by the Supreme Court to stay on in Bangladesh till May 19, 2019. After that an appeal filed by Accord challenging a high court judgment that asked the agency to stop its activities in Bangladesh will be heard.
Accord’s tenure, of more than 200 retailers formed to enhance garment factory safety in Bangladesh after the Rana Plaza collapse in April 2013, originally ended in May last year. The platform of mostly Europe-based retailers has been insisting on a three-year extension to see through the remediation works in its 1600 sourcing factories -- a demand that the government and garment factory owners are not willing to entertain. Pressure has been mounting on Bangladesh to let Accord continue operations.
Nearly 200 investors and the Clean Clothes Campaign have been spearheading demands for an extension of Accord’s tenure and have called upon global partners to coerce action against Bangladesh on the Accord issue. But apparel industry leaders are unwilling to let it stay on in Bangladesh any longer. They say Accord has forced many of them to undergo expensive remediation work, but even after such expensive remediation work, buyers, though they are happy with the compliance work, are not paying a fair sum to enable factories to recover their costs.
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Home Expo India Opens In Noida
Home Expo Inida 2019 the three in one exhibition comprising of Housewares and Decoratives, Furnishings, Floorings and Textiles and Furniture and Accessories opened today at India Expo Centre and Mart, Greater Noida.
Shri O.P. Prahladka, Chairman- EPCH, Shri Ravi K. Passi, Vice Chairman-EPCH, Shri Rakesh Kumar, Director General-EPCH and prominent members of committee of administration were present during inauguration ceremony.
On the occasion of opening of Home Expo India 2019, Shri O.P. Prahladka, Chairman – EPCH said that the show is in response to the industry demand and International trend of organizing sector specific shows enabling better focus on specific requirements of buyers and is much appreciated by International visitors who can concentrate on products they are looking for without getting lost in the myriad of products, services and exhibitors.
Home Expo India covers sectors with maximum thrust and growth potential in home décor, furnishing, furniture, flooring, 
and textiles. About 500 companies in permanent marts will be exhibiting their collection under these categories at the state of the art India Expo Centre & Mart from 16 – 18 April, 2019.
Home Expo India is concentrating on select exhibitors, premium products and thoughtfully invited buyers. This obviously leads one to think that whole exercise of Home Expo India is very methodical, scientific and selective and hoped this kind of approach will yield very good results informed Shri Rakesh Kumar, Director General – EPCH. He further added that buyers from more than 50 countries shall be visiting which included buyers from traditional markets of USA and Europe and buyers from countries like Argentina, Brazil, Chile, Colombia, UAE, Lebanon, Iran, Nigeria, Ghana, South Africa, Vietnam, Romania and many more have also confirmed their participation. The fair organisers of the show met with some of the foreign buyers after inauguration ceremony to have their view about the show as well as their visit to India.
Shri Kumar further continued and said that Furniture & accessories have shown growth of about 27.13% in exports and houseware and decorative have shown 15.19% growth, Home furnishing, flooring and home textiles have shown growth of 6.3% in last year.
During Home Expo India, a thematic display of the North Eastern region and other artisans will also attract the visitors during the three day show.
The Handicrafts exports during the year 2018-19 is Rs. 26,590.25 crores [prov.] registering a growth of 15.46% over the previous year. said Shri Rakesh Kumar, ED – EPCH.
EPCH is the nodal export promotion body for handicrafts in India and plays an important role of a catalyst between the exporters, buyers and the Government with the main objective of boosting trade in Handicrafts and also project India’s image in the global market as a reliable supplier.
Brands regain their lost value through CSR initiatives
"Fast Fashion is losing its sheen with brands not only stepping up their ethical standards of production but also implementing corporate social responsibility (CSR) policies to transform their business processes. These initiatives are fructifying with brands witnessing bonus uplift in consumer loyalty."
Fast Fashion is losing its sheen with brands not only stepping up their ethical standards of production but also implementing corporate social responsibility (CSR) policies to transform their business processes. These initiatives are fructifying with brands witnessing bonus uplift in consumer loyalty.
Facing labor and waste disposal issues In order to reduce their manufacturing costs and increase sales volumes, brands hire cheap labor to produce trendy garments made of inexpensive materials. These garments, designed to last only for a season or two, require brands to maintain a large global manufacturing network of low-paid workers. These workers are often forced to work long hours for meager pay, while enduring deplorable conditions. This is a particularly the case with brands that outsource their manufacturing to the developing world.
Fast Fashion brands also need to keep up with the retail trends, which require a huge amount of natural resources. However,
this also creates substantial waste. The materials used in creating these designs increase pollution, be it the use of toxic chemical dyes to create brightly coloured swimwear, or the manufacture of polyester clothing.
Kirsten Brodde’s Greenpeace initiated the Detox My Fashion campaign in 2011 to tackle the use of hazardous chemicals in textile manufacturing. But while the Detox campaign tackles ecological issues during the production process, the environmental damage caused by disposal of unsold clothes is not dealt with.
Another issue that needs attention is the disposal of unsold goods. British brand Burberry burned over £28m (€32.2m) worth of clothes and perfumes, in July 2018. This results in waste of the time and resources taken to manufacture products, it also harmful chemicals in the environment.
Seeking sustainable solutions
As demonstrated by a number of leading European brands, the issues of labor and waste can be tackled with the introduction of a CSR programme. German retailer Armed Angels, for instance, not only uses organic Fairtrade cotton in its products, it also pays a fair wage to all of its farmers, and never employs anyone under the age of 18. Similarly, Swedish retailer H&M, one of the original proponents of CSR policy, collected 17,771 tons of textiles through its garment reuse and recycling initiative in 2017 – the equivalent of 89 million T-shirts.
Smaller start-up brands can build sustainability into all of their business processes and account for CSR spend in their profit margins right since their inception as they supervise their supply chains thoroughly. These brands are more likely to develop long-term, trusting relationships with their suppliers. However, regardless of its size, a brand that implements a robust CSR policy is expected to receive a positive reaction from its customers.
Changing attitude to tackle issues
The demand for sustainable clothing is negatively impacted by the consumer’s demand for fast fashion. The fast fashion industry, therefore, needs to change its trend-driven mindset. This change will boost individual sustainability policies besides tackling the issue of waste disposal. It will give rise to a new generation ethical brands who will proudly display their achievements to consumers; irrespective of the profits they earn.
Global women’s footwear segment growing at four per cent
This year, women’s footwear sales are slated for a steady year on year revenue growth of just under four per cent. Women’s footwear manufacturers will discover potential growth opportunities over coming years. Rubber owing to its high endurance and versatility remains a preferred material for women’s footwear over other material types such as leather, velvet, plastic, and textiles. Plastic is positioned as the second most favored base material for women’s footwear.
The future belongs to fast lifestyle retailers adapting to the online structure. Sustainable value chain including online operators will be the best asset for manufacturers. Eco-friendly material alternatives are emerging rapidly, though currently confined to a premium market segment. Sports shoes and casual shoes account for a more than 50 per cent share in the total market value. Startups in comfortable sneakers and athletic shoes will attract remarkable funds from venture investors. Customization is trending in the women’s footwear landscape. Therapeutic women’s footwear holds a promising outlook. Sports shoes dominate women’s footwear. Sneakers have huge sales potential in the casual shoes category.
North America remains the largest regional shareholder in the global revenue of women’s footwear landscape. Asia Pacific and western Europe are the next key markets for manufacturers and distributors of women’s footwear.
US plans tariffs on EU
The US is preparing a list of European Union products on which it intends to impose retaliatory tariffs in response to the European subsidies given to Airbus. The preliminary list includes certain new aircraft and aircraft parts, seafood, yogurt, butter, cheese, citrus fruits, virgin olive oil, wine, printed books, threads, carpets and other textiles, men’s and women’s apparel, iron and steel articles, such as nails, and parts and accessories of bicycles.
This new round of planned tariffs stems from a World Trade Organization ruling last May, which found that Boeing rival Airbus had received illegal funding for several of its aircraft models. In the dispute, which began in 2004, the United States argued that the EU gave Airbus billions of dollars of launch aid that resulted in an unfair advantage for Airbus. Specifically, the United States asserted that the aid allowed Airbus to gain market share in Europe, Australia, China, South Korea, and elsewhere. In response, the European Union announced that it was also readying a list of tariffs to counter US subsidies to Boeing.
The proposed imposition of new tariffs comes amid tense trade relations between the United States and the EU. Continued threats from the United States to impose auto tariffs, along with the corresponding threats from the EU in retaliation, are further exacerbating the situation.
