Non flame resistant, molten fabric enters US
A dangerous flammable fabric is being imported into the US that fails to meet basic fire standards. Put a lighter’s flame to the fabric and it ignites like a sparkler, dripping molten chemicals that burn into the surface of anything that its drips on. Normal polyester when held to a lighter will roll back on itself and when cooled the polyester becomes quite hard like a plastic.
The fabric is labeled as 100 per cent polyester, although silver-nano particles can be seen with the naked eye. Silver particles generally provide anti-microbial properties. Oddly, the test fabric has been marketed as stain-resistant instead of anti-microbial. The silver particles are not embedded and when ignited, the silver becomes airborne. The nano terminology that was used on the labeling to describe the finishing is totally misleading.
The label doesn’t say what abrasion material was used; cotton or wire, and how many pounds of pressure were used. In the early ’90s a synthetic georgette fabric was banned from import due to its high flammability. There are outdoor performance products which are labeled as containing CoolMax, a moisture wicking fabric developed by DuPont in 1986. However, what CoolMax actually is anyone’s guess.
Washington-based NCTO gets a new President
The National Council of Textile Organizations, a Washington-based trade group that merged with two other textile organizations in March, has a new President. Auggie Tantillo, who for many years was the head of the American Manufacturing Trade Action Coalition, was named the new NCTO president. He replaces Cass Johnson, a University of California, Los Angeles alumni who had been NCTO president since the organization was formed in 2004.
“We wish Cass well in his future endeavours, and look forward to working with Auggie in his new role,” said Scott Elmore, spokesperson for the American Apparel & Footwear Association, a trade organization headquartered in Arlington, VA.
Prior to AMTAC, Tantillo worked under the George W Bush administration as deputy assistant secretary for textiles and apparel in the Commerce Department. He was also chief of staff for former U.S. Sen. Strom Thurmond of South Carolina. Tantillo had been a NCTO consultant after AMTAC was dissolved.
“We are incredibly pleased to welcome Auggie’s leadership and many years of experience to NCTO at such an important juncture of the Trans-Pacific Partnership negotiations,” Bill Jasper, NCTO’s Chairman and Chief Executive and Chairman of Unifi Inc., a North Carolina yarn maker said in a statement. “In his new role as President, Auggie will continue NCTO’s unparalleled commitment to fighting on behalf of American textile manufacturing and jobs at home and abroad.”
AMTAC and the National Textile Association merged with NCTO earlier this year to give the three trade groups more lobbying power and a stronger voice when addressing textile and manufacturing issues before Congress and the Obama administration.
New dyeing machines from Thies
The new Thies iMaster F series from German Thies GmbH is destined particularly for dyeing high pile fabrics, such as terry toweling. The new F series is the latest innovation for the highly successful iMaster range of dyeing machines. It features a large transport winch inside the dyeing kier to be processed with significantly reduced elongation. It results in improved stability, perfect fabric condition and appearance, and ensures economic and environment-friendly operation with advanced automation at low liquor levels, as low as 1:4 for cotton.
The new models are available with capacities of between 250 kg to 400 kg per chamber. The iMaster F series can be delivered with up to maximum eight tubes for the 250 kg/tube, and six tubes for the 400 kg version. They are also able to process a wide range of different articles.
The new machine is equipped with a 100 per cent stock tank, a dosing tank and delivery system for dry salt and is particularly optimized for the production of terry articles. The automatic self-cleaning filter system always helps to achieve every time the same dyeing and treatment conditions. Manual interventions for cleaning are reduced and productivity is increased. Rinse, wash and dye baths are measured online, continuously analyzed and displayed graphically.
Pakistan scraps duty on fiber
The National Tariff Commission (NTC) of Pakistan has decided not to impose anti-dumping duty on import of Polyester Staple Fiber (PSF) from China. The All Pakistan Textile Mills Association (APTMA) had been lobbying for it for a long time. The APTMA feels not imposing duty will have a positive impact on textile imports and will provide a long-term advantage to the textile industry, as polyester use is bound to increase. PSF is an important industrial material. However, the provisional anti-dumping duty continued for four months.
After value-addition on imported fibers, textile products are exported. Pakistan needs to import PSF in view of the acute domestic production shortfall of PSF. APTMA says imposition of anti-dumping duty operates against international competitiveness of Pakistan textile products predominantly meant for export.
Imposition of anti-dumping duty on industrial raw material besides making imports costlier have the effect of raising domestic raw material prices to a level where they become unviable for the textile industry. However, the domestic PSF industry was vociferous in pleading for imposition of anti-dumping duty as it gives the industry an amount of protection by which it raises domestic prices.
All Pakistan Textile Mills Association is the premier national trade association of textile spinning, weaving, and composite mills representing the organized sector in Pakistan. It represents 396 textile mills, out of which 315 are spinning, 44 weaving and 37 composite units.
Shanghai Planet Textiles to be organized on October 22
Shanghai will host Planet Textiles Conference on October, 22, 2013. Jointly organized by Ecotextile News and Messe Frankfurt, Planet Textiles tackles the crucial issue of sustainability in the global textile sector. Now in its fifth year, Planet Textiles is Asia's premiere annual event dedicated to reducing the impact of textiles on the environment.
The head of sustainability at leading Chinese textile mill Jiangsu Lianfa will give a real-world example of environmental and cost savings for a Chinese textile mill through implementation of simple environmental-led steps. Previous attendees at Planet Textiles include: senior executives from Nike, H&M, Wal-Mart, Levi Strauss, Puma, VF Corp, Adidas, H&M, Marks & Spencer, Esprit, Pacific Textiles and Warnaco, to name a few.
Planet Textiles will take place within the same venue as Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics, Asia’s leading sourcing exhibition, which attracts more than 60,000 visitors. This year, the link between Planet Textiles and Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics will be strengthened through an innovative new “all about sustainability” zone. This new area of the show will feature three sections: exhibitors: sustainable fabrics producers, and dye and chemical companies; educational Zone: sustainability testing certifiers, trade associations, NGOs and eco publications; display area: recycled fabrics, products, solutions and initiatives.
New Zealand’s Woolyarns comes up with super soft ‘Zealana’ yarn
A New Zealand-based Woolyarns produces an exclusive range of luxury yarn brand for both textile manufacturing and hand knitting markets internationally. It is Woolyarns’ Zealana hand knitting yarn. Zealana uses luxuriously soft and lightweight blended Brushtail possum fiber. It is spun into beautiful yarn that is sought after by handknitters.
Brushtail possum fiber is super soft and prized for its lightweight warmth and breathability. Possum for Zealana yarn is collected from a small number of carefully selected regions, only at certain times of the year. It is then blended with the finest merino or cashmere to guarantee softness and consistency in this high end luxury yarn. Woolyarns uses 40 to 50 tons of possum fiber annually across its product range. This is equivalent to the fiber from more than one million possums.
Woolyarns was established 68 years ago. For several decades, it provided yarns only for commercial purposes. In the early 1990’s, it pioneered the use of possum fiber mixed with wool. In 2006, Woolyarns released Zealana, its first hand knitting and crochet yarns.
Woolyarns offers a select niche range of bespoke yarns, in addition to its classic range. Luxury yarn brands in Woolyarns’ portfolio of bespoke yarns are Zealana (hand knitting), Perino (knitwear, apparel, hosiery yarns), INZpire (carpet yarns) and Callibra (sourced yarns).
Pakistan’s textile sector set to report robust profits
As financial results reporting season gains momentum, investors in textile sector are looking to splendid growth in profitability, which would probably match the financial year 2013 performance. Profitability of textile (sample firms) scaled four-fold to Rs 22.8 billion in three-quarters of financial year 2013 (9MFY13) as against Rs 4.4 billion in the same period last year.
“Last fiscal year, FY-’13, was one of the better years for Pakistan textile sector in terms of sales and profits which was also reflected in more than 100 per cent price performance of our sample listed textile firms with market capitalization of over Rs 25 million,” says Zeeshan Afzal of Topline Securities.
Though shortage of power remained the perennial problem, especially in winter, the textile companies’ jump in profits by 400 per cent was mainly attributed to stable cotton prices and strong regional demand.
Moreover, continuous depreciation of rupee against the dollar and cheaper financing also contributed to hefty earnings growth. In FY-’13, Pakistan exported $13bn worth textile products, up by 5.9 per cent in dollar terms but represented improvement by 14.7 per cent in local currency due to the drop in value of the rupee.
The growth in exports was attributed mainly to imposition of cotton floor price in China that encouraged Chinese textile manufacturers to import more yarn and grey cloth instead of converting yarn into costly local cotton. As a result, Pakistan’s yarn and grey cloth exports increased by 24 per cent and 10 per cent to $2.2billion and $2.7 billion, respectively, in FY-’13. The latest results of textile sector are expected to show continuous growth in export for FY-’14 on the back of sustained textile demand from China and substantial depreciation in local currency.
However, analysts caution that much would depend upon international cotton prices, though major volatility was unlikely to be seen in local cotton prices in FY-’14. The encouragement was based on estimates of Cotton Crop Assessment Committee (CCAC) which estimated Pakistan’s cotton production at 13.25 million bales in FY-’14, slightly higher over the 13.0 million bales produced by the country in FY-’13.
Exports and profits of the sector could also improve due to expected Generalised System of Preferences (GSP Plus) status from EU, as lower import duties would provide Pakistan a competitive edge in international markets. “Further operating environment of the textile sector may see further improvement in low interest rate scenario,” analysts said, the caveat, however, being the all-important improvement in energy situation.
France’s annual Theophile Legrand awards to be given away in October
The 2013 Théophile Legrand International Prize for Textile Innovation will be awarded on October 5 at ValJoly Eppe-Sauvage resort. The Théophile Legrand Foundation – Institut de France was created in 2007 by Christian Cambier, a descendant of Théophile Legrand. Théophile Legrand is the founder of the wool industry in Fourmies, France.
Since 2009, two Théophile Legrand awards are granted annually. With a value of €18,000, these two awards celebrate two distinguished researchers and/or students who have created original material, fiber or fabric in the field of technical textiles; or an innovative textile design and/or a new textile industrial production technique.
The goal is to foster innovation, research, and imagination by showcasing emerging technical and industrial creations. In 2009, the prize was awarded to Aurélie Cayla for inventing a smart textile that senses specific temperatures. In 2011 Munir Ashraf won it for creating a self-cleaning and antibacterial textile. Last year, Pierre-Alexandre won the prize for a decontaminating textile to treat air and water.
An innovative textile design project can be submitted for consideration providing the entrant or team of researchers is able to prove that the project, product and the invention of newly used elements are their own work. Selection criteria are the same for inventors of new textile fabrics as well as innovators of new processes of textile production. All entrants are judged on their creativity, originality, innovation to the field and the project’s ability to be industrially reproduced.
US suspends payment to Brazilian cotton farmers
The US has decided to suspend the payment of $ 147 million it annually makes to Brazilian cotton farmers. The payment to Brazilian Cotton Farmers Fund is made to prevent the South American country from legally retaliating against unrelated US imports.
The US lost a case brought by Brazil in 2002 before the World Trade Organization. Brazil was joined by sub-Saharan cotton farming countries in successfully claiming that American cotton subsidies suppressed prices and hurt their impoverished farmers.
A World Trade Organization arbitration panel ultimately authorized Brazil to raise $591 million a year in retaliatory tariffs against US imports, and Brazil announced in late 2009 that it planned to target 222 categories of goods, including textiles, acetaminophen and certain intellectual property. That's when Congress stepped in and authorized the $147.3 million annual payments, in effect subsidizing the Brazilian cotton industry.
In fact, most US taxpayers will be stunned to know their country is making such a hefty payment to foreign farmers. Some people say Federal farm subsidies are bad fiscal, environmental and agricultural policy; bad water, energy and health policy; and bad foreign policy. They object to cotton subsidies, which divert huge money every year to fewer than 20,000 planters who tend to use inordinate amounts of water, energy and pesticides.
Argentina drafts code for textile sector
Argentina’s Global Compact Network and Sustainable Textile Center has launched the Code of Conduct and Handbook of Textile and Fashion. The textile and fashion industry is important for Argentine economy, but from the point of view of sustainability, this industry often operates at the expense of the environment and social factors.
The code was developed by the Nordic Fashion Association and the Nordic Initiative Clean and Ethical (NICE) in partnership with the United Nations Global Compact (UNGC). The initiative for preparing a code, specifically for the textile and apparel sector, was proposed by the UNGC in May 2012 at the Copenhagen Fashion Summit in Denmark.
Many companies recognize the need to collaborate and partner with governments, civil society, labor and the United Nations. The UN Global Compact is a strategic policy initiative for businesses that are committed to aligning their operations and strategies with 10 universally accepted principles in the areas of human rights, labour, environment and anti-corruption. This can help ensure markets, commerce, technology and finance advance in ways that benefit economies and societies everywhere.
With over 10,000 corporate participants and other stakeholders from over 130 countries, the Global Compact is the largest voluntary corporate responsibility initiative in the world.
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Australian textile body urges measures
The Council of Textile and Fashion Industries of Australia (TFIA) has outlined a series of priority areas to drive up jobs ahead of Australian elections. TFIA is calling on the government to support the textile, clothing and footwear industry in Australia. TFIA wants the government to give priority in procuring from Australian manufacturers than from international suppliers.
It is looking for an improved strategy in the development of creative design, trade and artisan skills, with further innovative education programs to meet the evolving demand of the industry towards digital production.
TFIA wants the government to support strategy that promotes opportunities for enterprises in the textile clothing and footwear industry of Australia. The body is calling for a reduction of taxes, which will allow it to be globally competitive. The labor body is seeking a reduction in red tape and a more innovative approach to sustainability. It wants clearer country of origin and safety labeling as it believes no-one is taking responsibility for the poor labeling and unsafe products being imported into Australia.
BCI aims to reach 30% global cotton production by 2020
The Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) has been restricted only to Brazil, India, Pakistan and Mali. This year BCI gained the adhesion of producers from China, Turkey and Mozambique and, by 2015, the United States and Australia will also join the group. The movement establishes cotton cultivation with less environmental impact as well as more financial and social gains for the producer. BCI began only three years ago and so far it has had a three per cent share in the total production of sustainable cotton. In the next two years, BCI cotton is expected to reach 2.6 million tons produced by one million licensed producers. By 2020, the goal is to reach 30 per cent of the global cotton production, which would involve five million producers and potentially benefit 20 million people.
BCI’s expansion strategy for 2013 to 2015 builds not only on the entry of more producers, but also on expanding industry and retailer membership, thus improving the whole chain. The idea is that BCI should be the mainstream cotton, instead of operating in a niche market targeting consumers aware of sustainability issues. BCI determines that farmers use less water and pesticides, and respect crop rotation to improve soil fertility. Unlike other sustainability certification stamps, BCI declares itself technologically neutral – in other words, genetically modified cotton crops are accepted.
In India the use of pesticides has fallen 40 per cent, the use of water has fallen 20 per cent and productivity has increased 20 per cent, according to BCI.
Copenhagen sustainable fabrics fair postponed
The CIFF Future Fabrics fair and conference, planned for this September as a platform for sustainable and innovative textiles for the fashion and furniture industry, has been postponed because of a lack of confirmed exhibitors.
The event was due to take place in Copenhagen, at conference centre Bella Center, on September 8-10, 2013, but has now been postponed until 2014. The new fabric exhibition was also due to host accompanying conference ‘Future Fabrics Expo’, organized by The Sustainable Angle, which aimed to showcase innovative textiles, and those with a lower environmental impact, to designers, buyers and organizations.
The next Future Fabrics Expo 2013 will now take place in London later this year. Tanjia Davoil, exhibition manager from Future Fabrics, said, "Bella Center has tried to lift the bar, despite the fact that it is an inevitable direction for an industry that is among the most polluting in the world, the timing has just not been right. Exhibitors need more time and we are looking forward to return with Future Fabrics’ vision of pushing the fashion and textile industry in a more sustainable direction in the future." Copenhagen International Fashion Fair (CIFF) will continue to host its Spring-Summer 2014 fashion fair, to be held August 8-11 2013.
European textiles turnover drops by 3.5%
Eurostat the Statistical Office of the EU and EURATEX the European Clothing and Textile Federation has come up with the latest key figures (2012) for the European textile and clothing industries. Turnover of textiles at factory level dropped by 3.5 per cent or from EUR 104.8 billion to EUR 101.2 billion, and clothing decreased by 4.9 per cent or from EUR 101.9 billion to 96.9 billion. However, machinery and equipments added 1.3 per cent, or from EUR 113.9 billion to EUR 115.3 billion.
Mill consumption of fibres (Western Europe, CEEC and Turkey) is estimated at 4766 million t (4716 million t). In the EU27 the production index for manmade fibres stood at 87.0 points, down from 94.0 points, textile at 91.7 points (97.4 points) and clothing at 88.9 points (94.5 points). The production price index in EUR for manmade fibres settled at 106.8 points (110.9 points), textiles 107.8 points (106.2 points) and clothing 103.7 per cent (102.1 points).
Household consumption of textiles and clothing is estimated at EUR 482.7 billion (EUR 481.6 billion), manmade fibres EUR 9.6 billion (10.1 billion), textiles EUR 80.6 billion (83.7 billion) and clothing EUR 75.1 billion (EUR 77.4 billion). The grand total of all sectors amount to EUR 165.3 (EUR 171.2) billion.
The volume of investments in the manmade fibres sector amounted to EUR 0.25 billion (EUR 0.3 billion), in textiles to EUR 2.8 billion (EUR 3.0 billion) and in the clothing area EUR 1.9 billion (EUR 1.9 billion). Thus the grand total of all sectors amounted to EUR 5.0 billion (EUR 5.2 billion).
The manmade fibre sector employed in 78 (83) companies 21,000 (23,000) persons, textiles in 53,887 (55383) companies 6,74,000 (6,93,000) and clothing in 1,27,457 (1,31,399) companies 10,85,000 (11,19,000) persons. Thus the total number of companies amounted to 1,81,423 (1,86,865) and total employment to 17,80,000 (1,834,000).












