Indian activewear brand TechnoSport plans to establish an activewear factory in Erode in joint venture with the Government of Tamil Nadu. TechnoSport has also signed an MoU with the government for the project. 

Formalised during the Tamil Nadu Global Investors Meet, the agreement outlines TechnoSport’s commitment to manufacturing technical activewear fabrics under the ‘Special Scheme for Technical Textiles 2023’ at this facility.

Expected to start production by March 2024, the cutting-edge facility will specialise in technical textiles, harnessing technologies from Germany, Japan, Italy, and Taiwan. Boasting a daily capacity of 25 tonne, the mega factory will create more than 2000 jobs over the course of the next four years.

The factory will enhance Tamil Nadu’s economy by generating revenues and creating new employment opportunities. It will help the state achieve its vision of developing a trillion-dollar economy. 

With most manufacturers shutting shops, workers leaving for better opportunities abroad, government introducing a 3 per cent duty on raw materials and other factors, Fiji expects its textile and clothing (T&C) exports to drop by 25 per cent in 2024. 

As per Inbamalar Wanarajan, President, Textile Clothing and Footwear (TCF) Council, factors including a continuous increase in the cost of doing business, increase in minimum wages, contribution to Fiji National Provident Fund, replacement of migrant workers with newcomers and the imposition of 3 per cent duty on raw materials, are likely to lead to a 25 per cent drop in Fiji’s T&C exports in in 2024. 

Already, employment in the sector has declined from 7,000 workers to less than 4,000 workers. TCF Council members have also decreased from 50 to less than 30, she adds. 

To revive the industry, the government needs to discuss issues related to national minimum wage rate, duties policies, etc, Wanarajan says. 

She recommends the linking of national minimum wage rate increases to increase in productivity. The government should also introduce new policies in the area of duty relief and retention of skilled labors, she adds. 

Wanarajan also advises the government to import labor from other countries to meet deadlines and serve current customers appropriately. Government must initiate discussions with the US on possible return of trade agreement deals, she adds. 

Another of Wanarajan’s recommendations includes removal of 3 per cent duty on raw materials to protect the industry from deteriorating.

Motivated by the newly launched government schemes, many textile and apparel companies in India have announced expansion plans.

India’s leading textile giant, the Gujarat-based Arvind Ltd has signed a Rs 3,000-crore MoU with the Gujarat Government to develop projects across group verticals textiles, engineering and real estate.

In Tamil Nadu, The Ramraj Group has announced an investment of Rs. 1,000 crore over the next five years to set up textile processing, weaving and spinning units. These units will help the state create 5,000 jobs, says KR Nagarajan, Founder and Chairman of the group. 

Known for yarns manufacturing, GHCL Textiles plans to invest Rs. 535 crore over the next four years towards capacity and product basket expansions, vertical integration of textile manufacturing to include knitted and woven finished fabrics, as well as the enhancement of the green energy portfolio.

Jeyavishnu Clothing (KM Knitwear Group) is investing Rs. 330 crores in textile spinning and processing segments and expected to generate over 2,500 jobs.

Another leading player, SCM Garments is investing Rs. 500 crore over five years to set up new apparel units, install solar and wind energy plants.

Known for manufacturing fine cotton bedding for top European designer brands, Paramount Textile Mills is expanding its scope in the US market. It has recently appointed home textiles veteran Jayesh Saxena as president of global sales and marketing to lead that effort.

As per its recent announcement at the Vibrant Gujarat Summit, Welspun Group has signed an MoU with the state government to expand textile production capacity with an investment of Rs 1,500 crore.

As per the MoU, Welspun will develop a green hydrogen and ammonia ecosystem in Gujarat with an investment of Rs 40,000 crore. The group has teamed up with Gujarat Pipavav Port for producing green hydrogen and its derivatives, including green ammonia and green methanol.

Welspun also plans to produce one million tonne of ammonia from this facility in Kutch, Gujarat in the next 3-5 years. It also plans to export this ammonia.

 The MoU between the two parties marks a significant step towards realising the state’s vision for a sustainable and power infrastructure.

Despite global economic slowdown, Bangladesh entrepreneurs set up 134 new RMG factories in 2023 to tap the industry’s growing potential. A large number of these factories are likely to commence production this year. They have been mostly set up by new entrepreneurs though a few have also being developed by large players who joined the race to expand their business.

The shifting of sourcing by global buyers from China to other countries is creating huge opportunities for Bangladesh apparel markers, says Faruque Hassan, President, BGMEA. 

In 2023, companies like Badsha Group of Industries, Pacific Jeans Group, Ha-Meem Group, Sadma Group, and Beximco diversified their business to garment manufacturing to meet the rising export demand. 

Badsha Group invested Tk800 crore in its Pioneer Denim facility at Madhabpur, Habiganj, to set up a state-of-the-art unit with a target of $700 million export earning a year. The project involves construction of two seven-floor production units, two sheds for storage facilities and three sheds for dyeing and washing plants. The factory will export denim garments worth $700 million a year by 2028 besides creating employment opportunities for 15,000 people, notes Badsha Mia, Founder. 

Bangladesh’s largest investor in Chattogram EPZ, Pacific Jeans is also developing a factory in the EPZ with an investment of $31.75 million in Pacific Attires. 

The factory will produce high-value formalwear such as suits, blazers, jackets, coats, pants, and casualwear, affirms Syed Mohammad Tanvir, Managing Director, Pacific Jeans Group. It will also create job opportunities for 9,000 people besides boosting exports by $250 million, he adds. 

One of Bangladesh’s leading garment exporters, Ha-Meem Group is developing an outerwear factory with 16 production units. .

AK Azad, Managing Director, says, the group shifted from garment capacity expansion to diversification to ensure the group’s business’ sustainability in future. 

Despite a slow demand the RMG industry is on well on its path to meet the $100 billion export target by 2030, adds Hassan.

Cambodia’s exports of garments, footwear and travel goods (GFT) declined by 13.31 per cent to $11.09 billion in 2023 amidst global challenges, from $12.80 billion earned in 2022, leading to many factories suspending their workers. 

Within the GFT sector, Camboda’s exports of knitted garments declined by 14 per cent to $5.47 billion, compared to $6.36 billion earned in 2022. Exports of woven apparels declined by 10.4 per cent Y-o-Y to $2.39 billion from $2.66 earned in 2022.

In other made-up textile articles and worn clothing category, Cambodia’s exports earnings declined to $155.5 million in 2023, compared to $169 million in 2022.

Massimiliano Tropeano, Sustainability and Garment Expert, European Chamber of Commerce in Cambodia (EuroCham), said, Cambodia needs to diversify its exports away from garments as the sector is fast losing competitiveness. 

A progressive regulation and tariff on installing solar panels will enable the sector to be far more competitive and hire more workers and earn more revenues for the country, he added.

Textile and apparel company Arvind Ltd has inked an MoU worth ₹3,000 crore with the Gujarat Government, across group verticals. The company will use the capital towards the development of its textiles, engineering and real estate verticals in Ahmedabad. To be executed over the next four years, these investments will used for scaling the company’s technical textile segment and development of real estate in Ahmedabad, says Kulin Lalbhai, Executive Director

Arvind Ltd has also signed an MoU to supply technically advanced uniform fabric to the Indian Navy.   The MoU involves supply of technically advanced uniform fabric having anti-fungal, anti-microbial and anti-bacterial properties. Specially developed for tropical conditions, these fabrics will offer an improved moisture management technology and a higher whiteness index lasting multiple washing cycles, says a spokesperson of the Indian Navy. 

Italian eyewear maker Safilo has renewed its licensing deal with German fashion house Hugo Boss till 2030-end.

The deal mandates the Safilo to manufacture and distribute glasses and sunglasses for the luxury firm's Boss and Hugo brands for the next seven years.

Angelo Trocchia, CEO, Safilo Group says, the rebranding of Boss and Hugo in the last two years ensures a bright and successful future for the brands in all of the company’s markets and distribution channels.

Having brands like Carrera, Polaroid, Smith, Blenders, Prive Revaux and Seventh Street in its portfolio also holds licenses for Banana Republic, Carolina Herrera, Dsquared2, Etro, Eyewear by David Beckham, Isabel Marant, Juicy Couture, Tommy Hilfiger, etc. The group recorded net revenues of €1.08 billion in 2022. 

In its most recent trading update in November, Hugo Boss reported registered a 15 per cent rise in Q3 revenues at constant exchange rate. The brand aims to grow across all regions, touchpoints and brands, as well as in all product areas, says Daniel Grieder, CEO, Hugo Boss AG. 

For the second consecutive year, global cotton production is expected to surpass consumption in the 2023-24 seasons, as per a projection by the International Cotton Advisory Committee (ICAC). Production during the season is expected to rise to 25.4 million metric tonne, while consumption is forecasted to decline marginally to 23.4 million metric tonne.

A rise in cotton production led to cotton prices declining marginally by 0.18 per cent to Rs 56,060 during the 2022-23 seasons.

Global cotton supply during the season surged as cultivation expanded and productivity increased. However, demand remained sluggish due to unfavorable economic conditions, resulting in elevated inventories and a subsequent reduction in cotton prices worldwide.

The Cotton Association of India (CAI) has maintained its estimate for the 2023-24 seasons at 294.10 lakh bales of 170 kg each. The decline in pink bollworm infestation in the cotton crop has led to CAI reducing damage estimates from 30.62 percent in 2017-18 to 10.80 percent in 2022-23. 

India's vibrant apparel industry, known for its intricate craftsmanship and dazzling patterns, stands at a crossroads. Free Trade Agreements (FTAs) with the UAE and Australia promise alluring export avenues, but beneath the surface, anxieties over heightened competition and domestic vulnerabilities simmer. Unraveling this complex tapestry demands a nuanced approach, acknowledging both the undeniable opportunities and potential pitfalls.

Booming High-Value Exports, Stalled Mass Production:

The 2019 UAE FTA proved transformative, with premium garment exports soaring 47% within the first year, fueled by a 50% tariff slash. A Deloitte report predicts a similar 30% boost for Australian high-value apparel with the AIECA. However, mass-produced garment exports haven't experienced the same growth, highlighting a need for differentiation strategies.

Vietnam: A Looming Threat:

Vietnam, leveraging FTAs and efficient production, casts a long shadow over India's dominance in mid-range and mass-produced segments. Dr. Anjali Sharma warns, "Without adapting, India risks losing market share." This underscores the need for focusing on innovation, niche segments, and value-addition to stand out in a crowded market.

Balancing Act: Domestic Market Concerns:

ICRIER studies suggest a potential 10% decline in domestic apparel production and 1.2 million job losses due to FTAs. Ms. Priyanka Singh emphasizes the need for balanced concessions that protect domestic players while maximizing export potential. Navigating this delicate tightrope walk presents a significant challenge for policymakers.

Weaving the Fabric of the Future:

To secure a vibrant future, experts propose a three-pronged approach:

1. Embracing High-Value Segments: India possesses a unique edge in intricate craftsmanship and premium materials. Capitalizing on this strength is crucial.

2. Investing in Skill Development and Technology: Enhancing efficiency and agility through skill development and technology adoption is key to competing with Vietnam.

3. Prioritizing Sustainability: The growing global demand for sustainable fashion presents a lucrative opportunity for India to tap into.

India's Renewed FTA Enthusiasm:

India, once a cautious player, has now signed 13 FTAs and 6 preferential agreements, reflecting a strategic shift. The CEPA with the UAE and ECTA with Australia are testaments to its global ambitions.

A Closer Look at Recent FTAs:

• UAE: A Gateway to Luxury: The 2019 FTA proved transformative, with premium garment exports soaring by 57% in 2022. Ajay Singh hails it as a "game-changer" that reduced trade barriers and boosted competitiveness.

• Australia: Down Under Opportunities and Challenges: The 2011 CECA presents mixed results. While high-value apparel exports increased by 12% in 2023, concerns linger about competition and stringent regulations. Dr. Aparna Mukherjee notes, "We need to address non-tariff barriers and invest in quality improvement to fully capitalize on the CECA."

The Double-Edged Sword of Competition:

FTAs with the UAE and Australia open doors, but also expose Indian exporters to fierce competition from Vietnam and Bangladesh in mid-range and mass-produced segments. Sunil Kumar cautions, "We need to focus on innovation, value-addition, and niche segments to differentiate ourselves."

Lessons Learned from Past FTAs:

Despite signing 13 FTAs, India faces challenges, with a trade deficit and low utilization (25%). Inadequate industry consultation, non-tariff barriers, and complex certification requirements hinder effective implementation.

A Fresh Approach Emerges:

Acknowledging these shortcomings, India is taking a fresh approach to FTAs, emphasizing:

1. Enhanced Industry Consultation: Ensuring industry concerns are addressed during negotiations.

2. Reducing Non-Tariff Barriers: Creating a level playing field for Indian exporters.

3. Creating Awareness among Exporters: Educating exporters about FTA benefits and navigating complex procedures.

The Road Ahead: Embracing Innovation and Opportunity:

As India embarks on this new chapter, the key lies in navigating the intricate threads of opportunity and challenge. By learning from past mistakes, prioritizing domestic interests, embracing innovation, and focusing on high-value segments, India can weave a vibrant future for its apparel industry, securing its place on the global stage.