Two Japanese fashion retailers reported a ease in sales slump in June over the previous few months as consumers started to shop for clothes and shoes again despite lingering worries about the coronavirus.

The same store sales of popular sneaker chain ABC-Mart declined by 1 per cent year-on-year in June, after falling by 45 per cent in April and 4 per cent in May.

The June sales of United Arrows, which sells high-end imported brands and casual, private-brand clothes declined by 4 per cent year-on-year, after tumbling 62 per cent in April and 46 per cent in May.

Major Japanese retail chains reopened in late May after the government lifted a state of emergency. Fast Retailing Co, owner of Japan’s biggest fashion brand Uniqlo, is due to announce its latest sales data and quarterly financial results next week.

According to the statistics of the General Administration of Customs, from January to May this year, the total exports of textiles and clothing by China totaled $96.16 billion, a year-on-year decrease of 1.17 per cent, which was 8.8 percentage point less than the previous four months.

Among them, the cumulative export of textiles was $57.95 billion, an increase of 21.3 per cent year-on-year; the cumulative export of apparel was $38.21 billion, a year-on-year decrease of 22.8 per cent.

Exports of masks continued to drive textile exports to maintain high growth in May In May, China’s textile exports were $ 20.65 billion, driven by the export of masks. This month’s textile exports increased significantly by 79.2 per cent year-on-year and maintained a high growth under the high year-on-year growth of 51% last month.

According to official statistics, from March 1 to May 31 this year, the country exported 70.6 billion masks and 340 million protective clothing to 200 countries and regions around the world. From January to April, China’s cumulative export of masks was $8.855 billion, and the total export of protective clothing was $801 million.

Latest data from TexPro revealed that the global trade of knotted netting of twine, cordage, or rope of manmade textile materials has reported a slight decline in the year 2019.

The total trade of knotted netting of twine, cordage or rope of manmade textile materials fell 2.40 per cent in 2019 over the previous year and is anticipated to surge to $1,577.65 million in 2022 with a rate of 7.86 per cent from 2019.

The global export of knotted netting of twine, cordage or rope of manmade textile materials was $853.14 million in 2017, which was climbed by 6.19 per cent to $912.07 million in 2019. Total exports diminished by 0.65 per cent in 2019 over the previous year and is expected to move up to $1,008.20 million in 2022 with a rate of 10.54 per cent from 2019.

The global import value of knotted netting of twine, cordage or rope of manmade textile materials was $538.37 million in 2017, which was improved by 2.27 per cent to $550.60 million in 2019. Total imports depressed by 5.18 per cent in 2019 over the previous year and is expected to grow to $569.45 million in 2022 with a rate of 3.42 per cent from 2019.

China, Thailand and India ($63.55 million) were the key exporters of knotted netting of twine, cordage, or rope of manmade textile materials across the globe in 2019, together comprising 55.96 per cent of total export. These were followed by Spain, South Korea and Vietnam.

INDA is transitioning two conference events scheduled for August and September to an all-virtual format for 2020 in deference to corporate travel policies and individual concerns about travel.

Registration is open for the virtual World of Wipes International Conference, aligned with the WIPES Academy training course, and the RISE (Research, Innovation & Science for Engineered Fabrics) Conference.

Virtual WOW offers 30 speaker presentations focused on breakthrough wipe technologies, buyer demographics, sustainability, industrial and flushable wipes, substrates, preservatives, single use plastics, and strategy-setting market intelligence. Presentations will also address industry changes prompted by COVID-19. All speaker presentations will be recorded and available near real-time and on-demand for 12 months.

Participants will connect with senior-level wipes professionals through audio and visual presentations on relevant technical and educational content with business engagement opportunities through virtual tabletop displays, web pages, video, live chat, and calendar appointments.

Virtual WOW event schedule:

• Virtual WIPES Academy – August 25-26

• Virtual WOW Conference Presentations – August 25-27

• 2020 World of Wipes Innovation Award Presentations – August 26

• Virtual WOW Tabletop Displays – August 26-27

• 2020 World of Wipes Innovation Award Announcement – August 27

Developed for technology scouts and product developers, the 10th edition of the Research, Innovation & Science for Engineered Fabrics Conference presents “What’s Next” in sustainability developments. Virtual RISE offers 23 speaker presentations focused on new developments in polymers, fibers, additives, and fabrics, from sourcing and disposal to reuse amid the trends that are driving nonwoven advances.

Virtual RISE event schedule:

• Virtual RISE Conference Presentations – Sept. 29-30

• RISE 2020 Innovation Award Presentations – Sept. 29

• RISE 2020 Innovation Award Announcement – Sept. 30

Even as fashion houses like Dior, Burberry and Fendi plan new shows to showcase future collections, a sense of uncertainty looms over people attending these shows. As Milan-based psychologist and psychotherapist Laura Manigrasso says, these shows might evoke three types of responses from consumers. They may either rush out to attend irrespective of the regulation; or chuck them completely and stay safe at home; or may adopt a mixed route of returning to normal life by following the rules.

Wider access and creativity

And as Paola Cillo, Associate Professor and Vice Director, Department of Management and Technology, Bocconi University says, the situation offers brands and designers an immense opportunity to be inclusive. Fashion has always been synonymous with creativity, change and innovation. Hence, designers will have to hybridize on-site solutions with augmented and virtual reality to offer unique fashion experiences.

Lack of physical spaces and imitations encourage designers to make the experiences more desirable and doable. It also makes these shows and luxury events accessible to mass number of fans. The use of digital tools also makes people less suspicious of the authenticity of these garments. The industry can be more creative and make their visuals more sophisticated, adds Emanuela Mora, Professor-Sociology of Communication, Università Cattolica del Sacro Cuore and Creative Director, ModaCult, However, to achieve this, it needs to maintain that energy and effervescence typical of live shows. Another benefit of these virtual shows is that by reducing their trips and costs, brands can stage even more events, less crowded and in strategic places.

Being responsible

According to civil lawyer Laura Cereda, people are adapting to the new normal. They are less afraid of the virus and are getting used to the protective measures, such as getting body temperature taken. Employers are also rushing in to protect their employees. The lockdown has made people more careful. They have realized that if they fall sick they also risk making others sick

The ‘Make in India’ sentiment is pervading across all Indian industries particularly leather and chemical industries which are pleading with the government to impose anti-dumping duty on import of Chinese footwear and chemicals like Sodium Sulphide and basic Chrome Sulphate.

Both these industries have been urging the government to increase import duties on these products by almost 35 per cent. Particularly, chemical manufacturers who are facing the wrath of cheap Chinese imports. Ramesh Juneja, Regional Chairman, Council of Leather Exports says, cheap import of Chinese chemicals for footwear treatment is fast eroding local manufacturers. Hence, the government needs to impose an anti-dumping duty on these imports.

Initiatives to battle Chinese imports

Leather and chemical manufacturers and suppliers in the country have decided to boycott Chinese commodities. They are also urging the government to levy more taxes and duties on Chinese leather imports. These manufacturers are also attracting new investments in the sector. Oricon Enterprises has formed a joint venture agreement with Tecnocap, an Italy-based company for manufacturing lug caps. In 2019, Berger Paints India acquired a 95 per cent stake in STP, while Bharat Earth Movers (BML) manufactured the first coach in Mumbai under Make in India.

Though credible, these initiatives may not be sufficient to revive Indian leather and chemical manufacturing as India has very low manufacturing capacity. Also, cheap imports and failure to adapt to new technologies such as e-commerce, hampers growth.

Fashion struggles to survive

Closely linked with the leather and chemical industries, the Indian fashion industry is also suffering from low priced China imports. COVID-19 has forced many fashion companies to cancel orders. These businesses are unlikely to survive the pandemic due to massive drop in consumer demand for fashion especially in physical stores.

To tide over the crisis, many fashion brands have accustomed themselves to online sale channels. However, they are currently focusing on primary products such as masks, gloves and sanitzers. E-commerce labels like Myntra and Flipkart are offering huge discounts to attract consumers. However, the industry need to be revived urgently as there is a lot of unmet demand in the country.

The recently concluded 127th China Import and Export Fair (Canton Fair) promoted the development of international trade amid the COVID-19 pandemic. The event attracted over 25,000 exhibitors leveraged a wide array of display options, including graphics, video and 3D, to showcase their wares, in tandem with the presentation of a number of global debuts and smart products. Buyers from around the world, after visiting the exhibition hall, started conversations with sellers on the spot about potential orders or booked appointments to initiate a negotiation.

The live stream showroom launched at the fair provided exhibitors with additional opportunities to engage in enhanced interactive experiences with business partners. Exhibitors applied customized live stream solutions to present and highlight their competitiveness, for example, creating a virtual reality showroom or displaying a factory's automated production line. Exhibitors had the option of scheduling their live stream based on the client's time zone, allowing for the optimization of the experience no matter whether the client originated from the Americas, Europe, Asia Pacific, the Middle East or Africa.

The fashion search engine Stylight has been following inclusive brands that have gained in popularity in recent months. A case in point is Savage x Fenty by Rihanna, which has become well-established in just three years.

With the Savage x Fenty brand, singer Rihanna aims to offer affordably priced quality lingerie to all women, irrespective of their ages and sizes. According to the recent figures reportced by Stylight, the venture is a runaway success. The search engine noted a huge jump in the number of clicks for the brand, which were up by 1,126 per cent in May 2020 when compared to the previous month. Not only has Rihanna organized grandiose shows with women of all backgrounds, and of all ages, shapes and sizes, but she has also revolutionized the lingerie market.

Less well-known to the general public, the green size-inclusive brand Felina, which appears to be rapidly gaining in popularity, is also one to watch. The number of clicks on products by the label was up by 986 per cent in May 2020 when compared to the same month a year earlier.

Similar increases have been reported for swimwear brands offering a wide choice of sizes, which are also enjoying support from a fast-growing community. This is notably the case with the Reina Olga brand and Frankies Bikinis .

More recently, activewear brands have also branched out into the inclusive market with products for all shapes and sizes, and not just the athletically built. For example, the Prana label has seen an 8,179% percent increase in clicks on its products in May when compared to the same period a year earlier.

Informa Markets has cancelled its September apparel and footwear trade shows in New York City. This includes Coterie, Fame, Moda and Sole Commerce as well as previously rescheduled Project and Children’s Club. The trade shows were to be held under one roof at the Jacob Javits Center Sept. 22-24.

Though New York City is inching toward Phase 3 of its reopening, the former U.S. epicenter of the coronavirus pandemic remains a challenging location for large-scale events. The decision to cancel, Informa stated, came down to continued uncertainty around travel and border restrictions as well as health and safety concerns.

Instead, show organizers will focus their efforts on providing an opportunity for “business continuity” through a newly launched digital trade event beginning Sept. 1 that will run through Nov. 1.

The month-long digital event will come together through a partnership with wholesale e-commerce platform NuOrder. The online show will allow buyers to shop brands’ collections via e-catalogs, digital line sheets and virtual showroom technology as well as review creative editorials and content.

As a part of its ongoing restricting program, apparel chain Esprit plans to lay off 1,200 employees globally, including 100 in its Hong Kong office and 800 store employees in Germany. Job cuts follow the closure of 56 stores across Asia, outside Mainland China. The company plans to close 50 more stores in Germany, which accounted for 17.2 per cent of the group’s total revenue in the year to June 30. It has received court approval to open insolvency proceedings for its German subsidiaries allowing it to continue with the self-administration process under which it will streamline its business in Europe.

Another part of the company’s restructuring plan includes renegotiating contracts with service providers to obtain more favorable terms. These initiatives will lead to savings of around $116 million for the company, but the one-off costs of the restructuring will add up to about $64.5 million in the June 2021 year. Esprit’s management team is currently working to create a consistent customer experience across all touch points by improving its production quality and sustainability credentials and focusing on full-price sales.