US consumers are searching for jeans in a big way reveals data from product intelligence company Trendalytics. This is due in part to denim’s new cycle of loose fits and wider silhouettes. As per a Sourcing Journal report jeans searches are up 33 per cent since the same time last year and up 13 per cent since 2019. Searches for looser fits have more than doubled from 2019 and continue to grow. On an average, 6,40,000 people are searching for baggy styles, up 74 per cent since last year, with a heavy emphasis on mom jeans. But there are twice as many skinny products on the market as there are non-skinny.

Mom jeans, as well as their skinny counterpart, will continue to be top trends through 2021 followed by baggy jeans, flares and jeggings. Along with the skin-baring trends dominating post-pandemic fashion, bottoms that show some leg are considered styles to watch. Ankle jeans, flare cropped jeans and capri pants are all gaining traction as well.

Color denim is also having a moment. Purple is second only to black jeans. Purple accounts for 42 per cent of colored denim searches, followed by green and pink at 15 per cent, red at 14 percent, yellow at six per cent and orange at five per cent.

Over the last two decades, the contribution of cotton yarns in India’s total textile exports declined to 1 per cent approximately. As per a CRISIL report, the decline is mainly attributed to the lack of free trade agreements (FTAs) and increased competition from neighboring countries. The textile sector accounts for 11 per cent of India’s total merchandise exports, points a report in The Week. The sector also employs 45 million employees directly while 60 million employees are employed in related industries.

Over the last few years, India has been consistently losing share in cotton yarn market to competitors like Vietnam and China who benefitted by capitalizing on China’s falling share in the past five fiscals

Structural reforms to revive textile value chain

Indian textiles players also suffered due to the government’s reduction of export incentives in line with WTO guidelines. The CRISIL report does not expect the upcoming Remission of Duties and Taxes on Export Products (RoDTEP) scheme to benefit the sector much. However, it hopes, the government’s additional structural reforms will help revive the textile value chain.

The CRISIL report states, the recently announced PLI scheme for man-made fibres (MMF) and technical textiles will boost India’s MMF-based RMG exports. If implemented well, the scheme may help the sector enhance its export share over the medium to long term. However, it needs to be supported by continuous investments in infrastructure development.

The CRISIL report also highlights India’s failure to increase its RMG exports to EU and the US despite these being the largest RMG export destinations with 32 per cent and 27 per cent exports respectively in 2020. Meanwhile, benefitting from the abolition of quota system for developing nations, Bangladesh increased its exports to the EU while Vietnam’s exports to the US surged on acquiring most favored nation (MFN) status in 2001.

Need for FTAs and lower import duties

However, India now has an opportunity to regain its lost share, says the CRISIL report. The US ban on cotton and cotton-based products originating from Xinjiang region in China, presents Indian with an opportunity to re-establish relations with global brands.

India’s export of cotton yarn or fabrics and made ups grew at 69 per cent from January-May 2021 while RMG exports grew by 39 per cent. Even raw cotton exports grew by 55 per cent year-on-year basis during October 2020 to May 2021 to 5.8 million bales of 170 kg as the US and Brazil struggled with lower cotton production. The country needs to sign new trade agreements and lower import duties in key export destinations. Overhauling its product basket and restructuring its incentives schemes can help India rid itself of China dependency and increase share in global trade.

The apparel, textile, footwear, and electronics industries in Vietnam have been most harshly affected by COVID-19-related shutdown. There are more than 6,000 factories in Vietnam, which employ more than three million workers. Production shutdowns at footwear manufacturers have already caused supply chain disruptions for major brands, some of whom have begun using airfreight to get their products out of Vietnam as quickly as possible amid a shipping crunch. Also at risk of interruption are supply chains of other large companies that have their products manufactured in factories in Vietnam. The situation is likely to worsen in the coming weeks as the flow of cargo through Vietnamese ports increases. Should logistical operations deteriorate while production continues, there is a risk of warehouse space becoming scarce.

As many companies run operations at their manufacturing facilities amid stringent COVID-19 measures, thousands of workers have been locked down at the factories with sleep facilities and food provided by the company. Should the situation continue, exhaustion of workforce might occur, as not all workers are able or willing to spend a few months at the workplace. For a factory that has more than 500 workers it is not quite worth it in terms of organizing the food and living conditions in these makeshift conditions.

Sympatex Technologies has been certified as a B Corporation company. This German company develops, produces and distributes membranes, laminates, functional textiles and finished products.

The NGO B Corp was founded in 2006. There are over 4,000 certified B Corporations in more than 77 countries today. Some of these are Toms, Too Good To Go and Patagonia. All of them are united by the same goal to reconcile profit maximization with a social mission on their journey towards a responsible, environmentally sustainable and socially fair future for business. They aim at meeting the highest standards of social and environmental performance, public transparency and accountability in order to balance profit with purpose. They operate at the top of their class, excel in creating a positive impact for their stakeholders, including their workers, communities, customers and the environment.

The B Corp certification is based on a company's verified performance in the categories of corporate governance, employees and impact on the environment, customers and society. Every year, participating companies have to answer 200 questions on these categories, and the B Impact Assessment becomes more demanding every year. Sympatex has received the award for the second time. It was already recognized as part of the B Corp list of the best companies in 2019.

Global demand for readymade garments by big fashion houses from Bangladesh has dried up. This is coinciding with the peak season for purchase orders. Around 35 to 40 per cent of annual exports are made during this period. Orders from Western markets for the winter season and Christmas are almost ready for shipment. However, the products will go unsold unless they are delivered soon. As per Syed Nazrul Islam, Senior VP, BGMEA and a garment trader in Chattogram, products are ready for export and factory owners are anxious to dispatch their shipments.

The shutdown orders in Bangladesh have been extended to export-oriented manufacturing units as well. Factories will not reopen until August 5, at least. The situation presents an unusual predicament for the apparel industry, as garment factories were allowed to operate during the first phase of lockdowns in March 2020. Factory owners are reticent about resuming operations before the end of the lockdown in the face of an ever-worsening pandemic. Reopening factories in the face of soaring infections seems a dim possibility. Some exporters are toying with the idea of finishing the work with a small number of workers if the lockdown is prolonged. Before the second wave of the pandemic struck, the garment sector was seeing signs of a turnaround, but this optimism is slowly starting to dissipate. The only solution to the crisis seems a mass vaccination program for workers.

Swedish circular sportswear brand Houdini is committed to digitizing and connecting all its garments to cloud by 2023. The aim is to transition its entire ecosystem to 100 per cent circular by 2030. With this in view Houdini entered into partnerships with Eon and Ykk. Houdini's digitized One Parka is the first product to feature Ykk’s new Touchlink NFC zipper pull and the first parka to be connected end-to- end by the Eon product cloud.

Eon is a product on cloud platform in fashion retail -- powering the industry’s network for connected products. Eon digitizes physical garments to provide brands the digital backbone to connect directly to customers. Ykk, based in Japan, is known for zippers, plastic hardware, hook and loop fasteners, webbing tapes, and snap and buttons. It has integrated production and supply systems in 72 countries and regions around the world.

Connected garments lower the threshold to circular business models such as resale, rental, subscription, and recycling. They also enable brands to digitize and reinforce their relational business model, distancing further from the transactional customer relationships that have long defined retail. Turning the product into a communications channel connected products open a direct and continuous connection between brands and customers.

The ongoing fashion and textile trade shows Colombiamoda and Colombiatex in Colombia will be on till July 27. One of Latin America’s leading fashion industry showcases, this year’s events is being held in physical and digital formats. Exhibition spaces accommodates 400 companies and brands hailing from Colombia, Brazil, the US, Peru and Argentina. Over 4000 national and international buyers are expected to attend.

This is the first in-person edition since the start of the pandemic and the first time both fairs took place together. Colombiatex which usually takes place in January was tweaked to Colombiamoda’s regular July dates. The hope is that bringing together the entire value chain will further enhance the reactivation of fashion and textile sectors in the country. Inexmoda was the organizer.

All sanitary and safety measures were put in place to protect the health of exhibitors and attendees. The fair’s fashion agenda features 27 catwalks shows and digital presentations, including leading national and international industry names. The textile segment of the exhibition includes pavilions for fabrics and textile supplies, machinery, specialized manufacturing services and finished garments in categories such as denim, children’s wear, underwear and sportswear. Designers from Colombia, Ecuador and Peru presented their collections.

Innatex will be held in Germany, July 31 to August 2, 2021. More than 200 labels are set to appear at the international trade fair for sustainable textiles. The pandemic has presented an opportunity to launch new projects for the forthcoming Innatex. They include a special zone which will shine a light on African designers. Labels from Ethiopia, Kenya, Rwanda, South Africa, Tanzania, and Uganda will present their ideas for sustainable textiles and fashion products. The aim is to break the notion that Africa is just a cotton-grower and a producer of other raw materials and introduce Africa’s vibrant fashion and textiles industry. The digital/analogue hybrid event is designed, among others, to draw attention to the extraordinary creativity, diversity and innovative spirit across the continents whilst opening up business opportunities along the supply chain.

The IVN (International Association of Natural Textile Industry), which sponsors Innatex, is staging its own pop-up showroom. In doing so, the association is creating its own curated space, showcasing the diversity and special features of its members. The future objective is to expand this space with the organiser to create an area that introduces visitors to different ways of presenting green fashion.

Following a long string of industry gatherings being cancelled due to Covid-19, the summer trade fair is an opportunity for the sector to get together.

Spanish clothing brand Mango expects to exceed 2019 profits this year. During the first six months of 2021, Mango has already achieved 21 per cent more turnover than in 2020, approaching 2019 levels. The company closed the months of May and June with sales above those of two years ago. Commercial margin also improved by 1.8 points compared to 2019, exceeding by 58 per cent. This increase is due to improvements to the collection, the proactive management of stock and fewer sales promotions.

Growth continues to be driven by Mango’s online channel, which remains on an upward trajectory. E-commerce closed this half year 37 per cent above the same period last year and 85 per cent above 2019. The online channel accounts for 46 per cent of total Mango turnover, four points higher than December 31 year end levels.

For its part, the network of physical stores was closed on an average almost 50 days during the first half of this year, especially affecting key markets for the multinational such as Germany, France, UK, Portugal and Turkey. There have also been considerable restrictions on opening and customer capacity in Spain, Mango's principal market in turnover terms.

China’s imports of cotton linter in the first half of 2021 were up 146 per cent year on year. As per a CCF Group report imports in the first and second quarter of 2021 were up 56 per cent and 262 per cent year on year. In the first half of 2021, imports from India, Turkey and the US were up 550 per cent, 548 per cent and 34 per cent.

In the first half of 2021, cotton linter import price fell to a 15-year low. The price of Indian linter is 3.5 per cent lower than the average while that of US linter is 33 per cent higher than the average. The cotton linter import price in June 2021 was up two per cent year on year. The price of Turkish linter is 11 per cent lower than the average while that of Indian and US linter is 12.8 per cent and 27 per cent higher than the average.

China’s consumption of cotton linter for staple-grade CLP has increased substantially this year, so have cotton linter imports from India, Turkey and Brazil in the first half of the year. Adding the US, imports from these four countries account for about 95 per cent of total Chinese imports.