Global apparel industry reports and experts alike have highlighted the ongoing pandemic has given a huge impetus to comfort wear with sale of leggings, track pants, tees et al clocking in huge growth since March 2020. And even after restrictions have eased, loungewear sales have not slowed down, say retailers. As Sanjay Jain, CEO, PDS Multinational Fashions told Mint, demand has shifted from formal to casual wear. “Fashion designers are predicting a move from tighter, body-fitting fashion to more loose apparel. You and I are going to see more baggies.”

Numbers too reveal, loungewear sales continue to remain high. For PDS for example, in 2019 the division between casual and formal wear was around 75:25 it changed to 95:5 in post-Covid. PDS offers product development, sourcing, design and manufacturing services to top global brands and retailers like Superdry, Primark and Next, and supermarket chains like Walmart, Woolworths and Sainsbury’s. In 2019-20 alone PDS did business worth Rs 6,000 crore. As per Jain, formal wears space has been taken over by an increase in demand for athleisure, denim and loungewear.

Shifting focus boosts casual wear business

Even though casual wear was always popular however, the lockdown has given it added boost. The trend has caught on with brands and retailers looking at it as a huge opportunity. PDS expects demand for athleisure and denim to dominate this year. And Jain says the trend has shifted from causal trousers to denim. Before Covid, the split was 70 per cent (causal trousers) and 30 per cent (denim), but post-COVID it has reversed. T-shirt dresses and polos are also seeing good demand in Europe and North America. Sale of casual and formals shirts are down 30-40 per cent.

Similarly, footwear retailer Bata India is looking at casual apparel category as consumer focus shifts to athleisure. As Bata Shoe Organisation’s global CEO Sandeep Kataria says the company was testing its training and fitness apparel under the Power brand.

In fact, retailers are sceptical about formal clothing sales bouncing back anytime soon. Jain told Mint “The revival of formal wear is based on the assumption that the vaccine will have an impact, Covid will go away and you and I will go back to office. The trends are encouraging, but a structural shift has taken place. There is a realization that work from home is doable.”

On similar lines, Kataria feels post-Covid the culture of work from home will continue. Therefore, comfort wear will have a lasting impact. He says, Bata consumers are looking for casual footwear with comfort and casualisation driving trends.

Formal wear sales down but will pick up

Even though retailers do not expect formals wear sales to recover, any time soon, they are eyeing next spring/summer season and working on collections accordingly.

One big thrust during the pandemic is growing awareness about sustainability among consumers. Stakeholders in the apparel industry are now focusing on eco-friendly methods as the momentum picks up. Bata for example has factories with zero-effluent. Besides, some of its footwear brands such as Power use recycled tyres in its shoes.

While awareness about sustainability is growing costs are a concern for consumers, feels Jain. Sustainable raw materials are definitely more expensive. However, with time consumers seeking shopping choices in sustainable products will grow even as their wardrobes get smaller.

VF Corp released Q3 results that ended December 2020 of fiscal 2021 and raises full year fiscal 2021 outlook. The company’s revenue from continuing operations decreased 6 per cent to $ 3.0 billion, while active segment revenue decreased 9 per cent including a 6 per cent fall in Vans brand revenue.

Outdoor segment’s revenue decrease 5 per cent, which included flat revenue in The North Face brand. The work segment revenue increased 8 per cent including a 9 per cent rise in Dickies brand revenue.

As far as region-wise revenue is concerned, international revenue was flat, while Europe revenue increased 1 per cent. The Greater China revenue rose 18 per cent, which included a rise of 22 per cent in Mainland China. Its full year fiscal 2021 revenue is now expected to be in the range of $9.1 billion to $9.2 billion, reflecting a decrease of 12 to 13 per cent on an adjusted basis.

The agreement is expected to boost bilateral trade between India and Japan by enhancing India's textile and apparel export to Japan, the world's third-largest export destination. The MoU between the Textiles Committee, under the Ministry of Textiles, and the Nissenken Quality Evaluation Centre of Japan will formalise mutual interaction.

The Union cabinet in its meeting held in September 2020, had given approval for signing the pact. However, there are several challenges related to stringent quality standards for exports to Japan. Although the Indian textile ministry is confident the pact will help in creating awareness on various quality parameters being sought by the importers based in Japan and extending hand-holding support to Indian exporters to adopt and upgrade their technology.

The main objective of the pact is to provide required support to textiles trade and industry for ensuring quality as per the requirement of Japanese buyers through testing, inspection and conformity assessment, training and capacity building, research and development, and consultancy.

Both institutions have agreed to share and exchange relevant technical information and documentation on a regular basis and carry out activities related to standards, quality assurance norms.

They will also share joint research projects on testing and development of user-friendly tools for dissemination of data to the industry and facilitate sourcing across the textiles value chain from both the countries.

India and Japan signed a Comprehensive Economic Partnership Agreement (CEPA) in 2011 which inter-alia facilitates import of garments from India to Japan at zero duty. Despite CEPA, the growth in trade in textiles and apparel between the two countries has been moderate. Japan is third-largest importer of textiles and apparel in the world and India is sixth-largest exporter, and there is huge untapped potential for trade that remains unharnessed.

Coats is joining the group of world’s leading and most influential organisations, brought together by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation to demonstrate how the transition to a circular economy can be accelerated. The Ellen MacArthur Foundation Network is leading the transition to a circular economy which represents systemic change.

Coats developed Epic EcoVerde, the world’s first 100 per cent recycled premium sewing thread and continues to develop a range of products, which are made from recycled materials as a stage towards full circularity. It is also designing products to help facilitate circular processing within the textile garment industry.

As an Ellen MacArthur Foundation Network member, Coats will be joining events, workshops and other collaborative activities. It will be looking to how it can work with the textile industry, and also other industries within which it operates, to make products to be used more, made to be made again and made from safe and recycled or renewable inputs.

Textiles and clothing exporters will continue enjoying the enhanced credit limit under the Export Development Fund (EDF) for six more months as the impacts of the pandemic persist, the Bangladesh Bank stated. Members of the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) and the Bangladesh Textile Mills Association (BTMA) will be able to use the facility until June 30, 2021.

In May last year, the central bank widened credit limit under the fund to $30 million from $25 million for the rest of the year for BGMEA and BTMA members as a part of its efforts to help them tackle the economic downturn deriving from the coronavirus pandemic. The central bank has taken the decision following a request from exporters affiliated with the two associations. The decision will give a boost to exports in coming months.

Financing from the EDF is extended to manufacturers so that they can purchase raw materials in the form of back-to-back letters of credit. This helps them produce export-oriented items.

After the pandemic hit, the central bank expanded the fund's size by $1.5 billion to $5 billion to protect the exporters as shipment collapsed because of the economic slowdown. The BB also cut the interest rate on the loans under the scheme.

Chemical and textile firm GHCL reported a 21 per cent rise in consolidated net profit to Rs 117.57 crore in the third quarter of this fiscal year. Its net profit stood at Rs 96.91 crore in the year-ago period. The company’s total income stood at Rs 820.77 crore in the October-December period of 2020-21 financial year from Rs 849.08 crore in the corresponding period of the previous year, GHCL stated in a regulatory filing.

GHCL is into chemicals, textiles and consumer products segment. In chemical segment, it mainly manufactures soda ash (anhydrous sodium carbonate) a major raw material for detergents and glass industries and sodium bicarbonate (baking soda).

Its textiles it is an integrated set up, which commences right from spinning fiber (yarn), weaving, dyeing, printing of the finished products, like sheets and duvets, primarily exported worldwide.

In consumer products operation, it manufactures and sells edible salt, industrial grade salt and markets jujube honey, spices and blended spices under the brand ''i-Flo''.

Fibre producer, Hyosung, will introduce expanded regen sustainability fibers featuring 100 per cent recycled, multi-function fibres at ISPO Munich Online. Hyosung is a comprehensive fibre manufacturer that produces world-class products, providing innovation and solutions to the textile industry.

The company feels as the industry revives post COVID-19 world, several trends developed during the pandemic will continue – namely clothing that provides comfort and reassurance, and that’s made with sustainable sources. Additionally, clothing needs to be multi-functional in that it can cross the boundaries between home wear, activewear and outdoor wear. And it must last over time.

As a solutions provider across the value chain from mill to brand to consumer, Hyosung consistently forecasts market trends to develop a comprehensive fibre offering to help its customers envision products that suit these trends. The company will present many of its new sustainable and multi-function regen fibres at ISPO Munich Online February 1-5, 2021.

The company is experiencing significant interested in its 100% GRS recycled creora elastane, Mipan regen nylon, and regen polyester – all of which save valuable resources from being removed from the earth. In addition to its 100% recycled regen creora elastane, Mipan regen nylon, regen polyester, Hyosung will present its recycled regen multi-function offering to include regen askin/ MIPAN regen aqua X: cool-touch polyester and nylon with UV protection amongst others.

The textile and garment technology showcase, ITMA will continue to present and share innovative manufacturing technology and materials with the industry at its 19th edition in Milan. ITMA 2023 will feature the theme, ‘Transforming the World of Textiles’. It has four sub-themes: advanced materials, automation and digital future, innovative technologies, and sustainability and circularity.

ITMA 2023 will highlight innovations and new approaches that serve as catalysts to inspire and help textile and garment manufacturers grow their business, scale and sustain their transformation journey.

CEMATEX, the European Committee of Textile Machinery Manufacturers, which owns the ITMA exhibition says, the world is in the midst of the 4th industrial revolution that is filled with business and technological advances, hence, transformation is even more critical for the continued success of the textile and garment industry. Speed and agility are also of the essence to effectively tackle the ecological and medical challenges that the industry faces today.

ITMA offers the industry an unrivalled platform to present and share industry innovation and to collaborate with other stakeholders. As the Covid-19 pandemic has adversely affected the business environment, ITMA will be monitoring the situation closely, mindful about the importance of health and safety of all participants and staff. At the same time, ITMA will be launching several initiatives to create additional opportunities to help its exhibitors better connect and do business with potential customers. It will be announcing the new initiatives and enhancements to ITMA 2023 very soon.

ITMA was successfully held in Milan in 2015 and strong response is expected when the exhibition returns to Milan. Last ITMA exhibition held in Barcelona in 2019, featured exhibits from the entire textile and garment making value-chain, including raw materials and fabrics.

A new investigative report ‘Dirty Fashion: Crunch Time’ that ranks 100 top global fashion brands on their responsible viscose production plans, commitments and progress on transparency finds 75 out of 100 brands still dragging their feet and have made few or no commitment to remove dirty viscose. The report compiled jointly by the Changing Markets Foundation, the Fashion Revolution, the Clean Clothes Campaign, Ethical Consumer and WeMove.EU includes top fashion brands like Nike, Costco, Walmart, TJ Maxx, ASOS, Levi’s and a list of luxe brands like Armani, Dolce & Gabbana, Prada, and Versace. It evaluates the global textile and fashion industry on its transition towards responsible viscose and modal fibre manufacturing.

It also evaluates world’s top viscose producers manufacturing practices. This year two Chinese viscose producers, Sateri and Tangshan Sanyou, – broke off from Chinese Collaboration for Sustainable Development of Viscose (CV), and joined others in committing to cleaner viscose production. Some prominst players in this list include Lenzing, Aditya Birla and ENKA, who are committed to clean their production in line with the Roadmap.

Some move forward, others still lag

Of the 100 brands and retailers surveyed, 14 top ones have made a public commitment to clean their viscose supply chains, sending a strong signal to viscose manufacturers they expect the industry to move to responsible viscose production by 2023-25. Moreover, viscose manufacturers accounting for 50 per cent of global market share have also committed to better manufacturing and started investing in closed-loop production processes in line with the Changing Markets’ Roadmap.

As Urska Trunk, Campaign Manager at the Changing Markets Foundation point out with almost 50 per cent global viscose manufacturers committing to clean their act, fashion brands don’t have an excuse to drag their feet anymore. Trunk goes on to add even after years of engagement there is still a complete lack of progress by some luxury brands that claim to sell higher quality, exclusive products, while ignoring sustainability issues. Luxe brands like Armani, Dolce & Gabbana, Prada and Versace are among the lower-ranked brands clearly revealing the problem is not confined to cheaper brands alone. Many luxe brands had made public statements about their commitment to sustainability during the pandemic, seems like it was only to improve their PR among consumers.

EU brands more committed than US ones

Moreover there is a clear divide between US and European brands. While European brands are more committed towards change, most US brands are ‘lingering in the red zone’. Indeed, there are numerous technologies to produce clean viscose and top brands including Prada, Versace, Nike, Forever 21, among others need to clean up their act and use their purchasing power to make manufacturers move to closed-loop production. The report categorizes companies into four groups: Frontrunners, Could Do Better, Trailing Behind and the Red Zone on the basis of their responses and publicly available viscose policies. The 28 worst-performing brands in the Red Zone are those with no viscose specific policy and transparency of any kind. Of these, 64 per cent are US-based.

As per Changing Markets Foundation, compared to European brands, US brands are consistently negligent about their responsibility towards viscose manufacturing. Interestingly, this is the third time Changing Markets and other NGOs contacted fashion brands and retailers about their viscose policies. Of the 100 brands, 61 per cent gave some response slightly higher than in 2019.

Some like Aeropostale, Forever 21 and Michael Kors – have been consistently in the Red Zone, trailing behind industry trends and consumer expectations. What’s more, voluntary approach in driving a sector-wide transformation is not working well. And as Muriel Treibich of Clean Clothes Campaign says, “It is time for EU leaders to step up and make the necessary regulatory reforms, as industry initiatives have clearly failed and the current health economic crises have taken devastating tolls on workers throughout the supply-chain.”

However, several brands have improved their transparency. And almost all signatory brands disclose some information about their viscose suppliers. The most transparent are: ASOS, C&A, Esprit, M&S, Reformation and Tesco. They have published extensive lists of viscose manufacturers on their corporate websites.

Despite the pandemic, lingerie makers in China have done good business in 2020 riding on millennial demand. Digital bra labels have seen a lot of fashion investment in the past few years. In 2018, digital bra startups attracted over $30.5 million growth capital, reports data firm iiMedia. Between 2019 and 2020, over a dozen emerging lingerie brands succeeded in raising millions of dollars to boost business. The lingerie market in China is pegged at $61-billion.

Lingerie a profitable business

Interestingly, most new labels were incepted by women. And as per a Jingdaily report most of these brands’ mission statements are they want to revolutionize the industry because of their own frustration with ill-fitting, curve-enhancing bras they wore growing up. In fact, “they are shifting the paradigm by promoting comfortable, gender-neutral, and versatile styles.” China has a huge potential market for innovative bra labels that embody body positivity and sustainability.

With the fall of top domestic lingerie brand Dushi Liren, which specialized in body-flattering push-up bras, in line with Victoria’s Secret, many digital bra labels have managed to make a mark and gain ground by catering to the young consumers’ lifestyles. China’s traditional beauty standards have forced many women to opt for wired push-up bras. However, the working millennial prefer comfort and simplicity.

The growth chart of some digital bra brands has been amazing. Some were incepted only two years ago however their success stories indicate there is a lot of untapped market potential. For example, Ubras, a digital brand specializing in one-size lingerie, surpassed Uniqlo in just two years. It became the top selling underwear brand in this year’s Singles Day. Similarly, Bananain, incepted in 2016 by a Shenzhen tech company, became one of Tmall’s top-five performing brands with gender-neutral underwear in bright colors and no skin-scratching labels. Livary Mio, a modern, feminine label founded by Miche Huang, has raised millions of dollars from the VC firm Artesian INVESTS to grow their online business.

And as Tmall’s underwear division, Sun Su points out Chinese consumers are very receptive to new brands, with 20 per cent of the top 100 brands at this year’s Singles Day sale labels founded in the past three years.

Over the years lingerie has turned from being functional apparel to personal expression. And as Miche Huang, Founder, Livery Mio points out, consumers really care about whether a piece of lingerie can be both beautiful and comfortable, whether it makes them look good, and whether it can pair stylishly with their clothes.

Moreover, just like their western counterparts, awareness about sustainability has started firming up among Chinese consumers too as they are also asking for more environmentally friendly materials. Body diversity is another untapped niche. Brands that promote inclusivity and diversity are still rare in China. While brands like Neiwai and CandyLaVie have made PR strides in fighting the stigmas of ageism and sizeism, they are only the tip of a much-anticipated broader movement towards celebrating body diversity.