Confederation of Indian Industry (CII) has urged the government to introduce policies to increase India’s share in global merchandise trade to 5 per cent and in services export to 7 per cent by 2025. It urged the government to follow the general principle of higher duties on finished goods and lower/minimal duties on intermediates and raw materials. According to the chamber, this will encourage imports of components, intermediates and other inputs for domestic manufacturing which can be exported after value addition.

The chamber further said there is need for a calibrated management of the exchange rate to promote exports with strong capital inflows as the 36-currency export-weighted real effective exchange rate for India stands at about 116 for June 2020, indicating overvaluation of the rupee.

Pointing out that India’s cost of doing business in areas like access to capital, gaps in logistics, higher power and freight costs, royalty, state level taxes is a key disadvantage for export promotion, CII said the proposed Remission of Duties and Tariffs on Exported Products Scheme (RoDTEP) needs to take into account multiple costs.

CII recommended setting up of an export task force headed by the commerce and industries minister to address all areas of export promotion with coordination of ministries, state governments, other organisations and industry bodies. It also called for a robust and overarching foreign trade policy when the current one expires in 2021. It should not be limited to incentives for exporters but extend across different areas for a holistic export strategy.

The pandemic has accelerated e-commerce’s shift to a new marketplace model that allows third-party sellers to sell their products directly through the platform. While some of these marketplaces handle logistics and shipping of products, others like Fartech sell their wares from small boutiques and retailers instead of selling directly from brands.

Most of these marketplaces are hosted by influencers, brands, media companies and even retailers. One of the latest retailers to launch such a marketplace is BuzzFeed, whose marketplace was launched with help from Bonsai, a company that specializes in marketplaces for media companies. The marketplace will focus on beauty brands. Its success is encouraging other fashion companies to express interest in setting up a marketplace via Bonsai, says Saad Sidddiqui, Founder and CEO. The launch of its marketplace using Bonsai in 2019 has boosted the website traffic of Complex with click-through rates on its product pages being 8-10-times higher than affiliate links, and commission rates nearly 100 times higher.

Making inventory more adaptable

Scanlan, Founder, Naadam reports heavy increase in marketplace interest from a variety of companies. The industry is moving towards a marketplace model as there is a lot of unsold inventory, says Scanlan. This inventory is a bug bear for brands and retailers as retailers can’t move and brands cannot use it due to cancelled orders. Marketplaces deal with this issue by making their inventory more adaptable for both sellers and brands. This enables companies like Farfetch flourish to $1 billion in revenue while big department stores like Neiman Marcus see a drop.

Marketplaces also have their own risks. Adrien Nussbaum, CEO, Mirakl, says, two things are required to set up a successful marketplace. One of these is a sizeable and loyal audience to justify the higher upfront costs of the marketplace and a full commitment.

Advanced technologies lead to higher costs

Setting up a marketplace entails a higher upfront cost due to its use of complicated technologies. As Siddiqui notes, to set up a marketplace retailers need to interlink the back ends of both the marketplace and every brand selling through it. This could potentially costs more than $100,000 to set up. Marketplaces also have to bear certain fixed costs. For instance, they have to pay retailers around 25 per cent of each sale made through their platform while the brand takes another cut of variable size. This leaves the marketplace owner with a smaller cut than if they bought and sold the inventory themselves.

Many brands consider this cost worthwhile as it enables them to form additional revenue channels. Despite this, not many marketplaces are likely to spring up in future, as there’s a limit to how many marketplaces customers can keep track of.

With most people returning to work, the demand for textile and apparel in the US turned positive for the first time in the month of July. Latest data from CCF Group shows, import of textile and apparels by the US increased by 31.1 per cent in July though it declined by 18.8 per cent on a year-on-year basis. Of the total textile and apparel imports, the volume of imports from China increased 37.1 per cent even though it declined by 13.9 per cent on a year-on-year basis. For January-June period, the cumulative textile and apparel imports by US declined 19.9 per cent to 26.86 billion sq. mt. Of this, the volume of imports from China declined 26.8 per cent to 10.83 per cent year-on-year.

Value of imports up 38.9 per cent…

The value of US textile and apparel imports in June increased 38.9 per cent month-on-month. However, this value declined by 37.5 per cent year-on-year basis to reach $5.7 billion. The value of imports from China increased by 40.7 per cent month-on-month but declined by 40.2 per cent year-on-year to reach $1.9 billion. During the January-June period declined the total textile and apparel imports by the US declined by 27.9 per cent year-on-year to 38.63 billion sq. mt. From this, volume of imports from China declined by 43.1 per cent to 9.6 billion square meters.

By value, US apparel imports value in Jun declined by 42.8 per cent year-on-year to $3.97 billion, but these imports increased by 49.3 per cent month-on-month basis in June. Imports from China declined by 48.4 per cent on a year-on-year basis but increased by 59.7 per cent month-on-month to reach $1.16 billion. During the Jan-June period, cumulative US textile and apparel imports declined by 27.9 per cent year-on-year to 27.89 billion sq. mt. The volume of imports from China also declined 49 per cent year-on-year to 5.77 billion sq. mt.

…but import volume down 34.3 per cent

Though the volume of US’ textile and apparel imports shrank by 34.3 per cent year-on-year it increased by 57.8 percent month-on-month in June. The volume of textiles and garments imported from China declined by 32.5 per cent year-on-year, but increased by 65.4 cent to 0.65 billion sq. mt. During the cumulative period of January-June, textile and apparel imports by the US declined by 27.9 per cent year-on-year to 9.67 billion sq. mt. The volume of imports from China declined 38.3 per cent to 3.06 billion sq. mt.

These statistics prove that despite the clarion call to ban imports from China, US fashion companies continue to look at the country as an important apparel sourcing base. Though these companies imported more apparels from Vietnam from February-April 2020, China quickly regained its position as top apparel supplier to the US.

As per a report by textileexcellence.com, in contrast to world exports, India’s exports of baby garments increased 4.90 per cent in 2019. The country accounted for a 12 per cent share in world babywear market. Of all, knitted apparels were the most exported items with its exports growing by 9.64 per cent to $927.61 million over the previous year. However, exports of babies’ woven garments declined by 10.70 per cent to $229.82 million in 2019.

Babies’ garments made from the cotton fibers traded most during the year. Exports of these garments grew by 9.52 per cent to $ 77.01 million in 2019 over the previous year. Under this segment, export of knitted garments grew 9.84 per cent to $708.64 million in 2019 over the previous year. While exports of woven cotton apparels grew by 8.18 per cent to $163.37 million. The second most exported fiber for babies’ wear from India is other textile material fiber. Under this fiber, the export of knitted garments grew by 9.36 per cent to $165.98 million while those of woven garments declined by 29.4 per cent to $ 36.76 million.

India’s exports of baby wear made from synthetic fibers recorded a significant drop of 33.73 per cent to $77.68 million in 2019 over previous year. Under this fiber, knitted garment exports totaled $52.99 million with a negative growth of 21.62 per cent in 2019.

US, UK remain top export markets for India

US was the largest export market for India’s baby wear in 2019. India’s exports to the US grew 35.77 per cent to $292.78 million in 2019. Knitted cotton babywear was the most exported commodity in this segment with exports totaling to$215.85 million in 2019.

UK was the second largest market for India’s babywear exports in 2019. India’s exports of knitted cotton garment exports declined by 2.89 per cent to $149.62 million in 2019. Exports of knitted babywear of other textile material grew by 8.25 per cent to $19.34 million in 2019.

UAE was the third largest market for this commodity for India. However, India’s exports during the year fell by 29.82 per cent to $114.73 million in 2019. In this category, knitted garments made of synthetic fiber were more in demand with its exports totaling $40.42 million. India’s exports of knitted babywear to Poland increased 38.46 per cent to $ 27 million in 2019. In this category, exports of knitted cotton garment by 65.32 per cent to $15.81 million in 2019.

World babywear market declines by 4 per cent

In contrast to India’s exports, the world exports of babywear declined by 3.99 per cent to 9,808.03 million in 2019. US led the world market for babywear during the year with its babywear imports totaling $2245.86 million in 2019. China was the largest supplier of babywear to the US, followed by Cambodia, India, Vietnam and Bangladesh. China’s exports to the US fell by 13.75 per cent to $779.25 million. Around 67 per cent of the total exports of babies’ garments exported to US from China were cotton knitted ones. The US accounts for 54 per cent share in Cambodia’s total export of babies’ garments and it the only major market for Cambodia. Cambodia’s exports to the US totaled $246.03 million with a growth of 24.39 per cent in 2019.

Mustafa Guitepe, Chairman, Istanbul Textile and Apparel Exporters Association (ITKIB), said the industry witnessed a 16.5 per cent year-onyear (YoY) contraction in exports between January and July. Hence, the government should provide financial support, including tax exemptions and debt delays, to help the sector remain competitive during the COVID-19 pandemic.

The sector initially set a target of a 10 per cent rise in exports for 2020, but had to revise the projection after orders drastically declined in March following the global spread of the virus. There was a 27.4 per cent contraction in March and 61.6 per cent in April. In May, exports declined by 48.2 per cent, meaning exports decreased by 26.1 per cent in the first five months compared to last year.

The sector recorded an upward trend in July, however, posting a 25 per cent increase in exports thanks to the gradual reopening of world economies and the rapid recovery in the European Union markets. The industry is seeking the lifting of customs duties, recently introduced for importing intermediate products like zippers, buttons and fasteners used in textile factories.

New research from Placer.ai, the consulting service that monitors retail foot traffic, shows that shopper visits to Macy’s , JC Penney and Dillard’s all started to trail off in July following substantial gains in the two months before.

At each of the three national retailers, store traffic began to fall starting in the second half of June and continuing to July. Prior to that the department stores saw impressive gains as they reopened and consumers began to emerge from stay-at-home requirements. While none of the stores were hitting 2019 levels they were edging closer until pandemic numbers began to rise again.

Macy’s growth stalled with COVID resurgences and the brand appears to be increasingly affected by the ongoing impacts of the pandemic. Penney is following a similar path while Dillard’s mid-July visits generated some of the lowest traffic across the weeks measured.

Placer.ai concluded, the success of this sector – at least in the short term – will depend on the government’s ability to effectively control the impact of the pandemic.

As per Apparel Resources, US’ brassieres imports grew by 13.86 per cent in June ’20 over May ’20 to $124.30 million. China, Bangladesh, India and Sri Lanka were the biggest exporters, while other major shippers such as Vietnam, Thailand and Cambodia couldn’t tap growth. On a yearly basis, US’ imports fell 36.19 per cent in June ’20 over June ’19.

China’s exports of brassieres grew by 19.47 per cent in June ’20 to clock $50.10 million. Vietnam was the second top shipper of brassieres to the US. However, its exports fell by 30.21 per cent to $24.40 million. On the other hand, the country noted a 16,07 per cent growth in exports on a yearly basis over H1 ’19.

The exports of Sri Lanka surged by 346.38 per cent to $13.26 million worth of brassieres to the US in June ’20 as compared to just $2.97 million in May’20.

The exports of India and Bangladesh too grew significantly on M-o-M basis by 234.48 per cent and 87.28 per cent, respectively. India’s brassieres exports to the US valued $4.85 million in June ’20 as compared to US $ 1.45 million in May ’20. Bangladesh exports brassieres worth $4.34 million in June ’20 as compared to $2.32 million in May ’20.

A new report by Coresight Research says, though retail sales have been growing year-on-year (Y-o-Y) in the US, the UK and Germany, apparel sales have been highly negative in June. Malls in the US have been massively hit by closures of apparel stores and Chapter 11 filings by fashion giants like J Crew, JC Penney, Brooks Brothers, RTW Retailwinds, Tailored Brands, Neiman Marcus.

In the UK too, many apparel brands have collapsed into administration lately like M&Co, JD-owned Go Outdoors, Debenhams, etc. Though apparel stores have reopened in the US, the UK and Germany, consumers are still wary of going out. Hence there is huge dip in demand for apparels and fashion products.

Retail sales in the US in June shot up due to home-improvement demand – with sales touching nearly 23 per cent Y-o-Y in June. Even in the UK and Germany, sales for this sector saw growth in double digits.

The Uttar Pradesh government aims to double its MSME exports in the next three years to touch Rs 2.40 trillion. The state exported nearly Rs 1.14 trillion and Rs 1.20 trillion worth of MSME products during 2018-19 and 2019-20 financial years. Besides, the government aims to tap the lucrative global textile supply chain by providing a competitive avenue to international buyers, who are currently procuring textile and fabrics from China. It is holding discussions with UP-based units with regards to providing an alternative vendors base in UP to international buyers sourcing goods from China.

The government also plans to host virtual exhibitions (e-exhibition) during the current fiscal year 2020-21. Through these exhibitions, the state will offer help to exporters under the flagship Market Development Assistance (MDA) Scheme. The UP Export Promotion Council will also organize virtual exhibitions for the state exporting firms.

The sudden transition to working from home has undermined American retailers that sell dress clothes. Men’s Wearhouse, Jos A Bank, Brooks Brothers, Lord & Taylor, Ann Taylor, Loft and Neiman Marcus are among the retailers whose parent companies have entered Chapter 11 bankruptcy in recent weeks, having experienced a sudden drop-off in sales due in part to what industry leaders are calling “casualization.”

In 2011, Men’s Wearhouse accounted for 1 in 5 suits sold in America. Less than a decade later, demand for its suits has collapsed with its parent company Tailored Brands filing for Chapter 11 protection this month. The retailer plans to close up to 500 locations.

Revenue for men’s clothing stores is expected to decline by 13 per cent in 2020, according to research firm IBISWorld, and continue falling for several years. he pandemic has simply accelerated an ongoing pivot toward more casual wear in business, said Ray Wimer, an assistant professor of retail practice at Syracuse University’s Whitman School of Management.

Some retailers, such as women’s apparel chain Chico’s have benefited from earlier shifts toward more casual wear. But some retailers say the decline in celebratory events is hurting them more than the pivot toward casual wear in the work-from-home environment.

Retailers that specialize in dress clothes are adjusting their strategies to avoid going out of business altogether. Brooks Brothers recently announced a tentative deal to sell itself for $305 million to SPARC Group, a conglomerate including mall owner Simon Property Group and Authentic Brands, which used a similar strategy to rescue fashion chain Aeropostale.