FW
UK researchers evaluate denim laser etching potential
An interdisciplinary research team at Manchester Metropolitan University has conducted an extensive evaluation process to determine the true levels of precision and performance that a carbon dioxide laser etching technique can deliver. Developed as a less environmentally-harmful alternative to traditional bleaching methods, the laser technique’s potential in yielding highly precise denim effects while not compromising the quality, color, feel or strength of a garment – has now been scientifically assessed.
This method of distressing denim avoids traditional bleaching techniques which, according to the study’s authors, have a very poor environmental reputation due to using a range of physical, chemical and mechanical finishing methods that can pose severe risks to both the planet and the wellbeing of those exposed to it.
In the study undertaken by Manchester Fashion Institute and the School of Healthcare Science, light, medium and heavy weight indigo dyed 100 per cent cotton denim fabrics were exposed to a CO2 laser at various power and intensity levels.
Subsequent color change was investigated using a Spectrophotometer, a morphological structural analysis was carried out by Scanning Electron Microscopy, and attenuated total reflectance Fourier transform Infrared spectroscopy (ATR-FTIR) was used to monitor the loss of indigo dye and degradation of cellulose fibres.
Relief for Bangladesh garment workers as wage dispute resolves
Bangladesh has revised wages in six grades for garment workers. This resolves the unrest in the country's largest foreign export earning sector. Unrest hit the sector in 2016 when workers began protests demanding a new wage board. Around 350 unions for more than 4,500 active garment factories is a scanty number. Factory managements do not encourage formation of unions.
Cordial industrial relations have been missing in the sector for over 40 years since garment trade took off in the country. In almost every factory, the elected participation committees are present for the sake of compliance. In most cases these participation committees are inactive and only exist on paper under pressure from buyers.
The latest spell of protests against disparity in wages was not guided by union leaders and it was evident when the demonstrating workers refused to return to work despite repeated calls from the leaders. After the last pay hike in 2013, many factories increased production target for workers and the work pressure built up tremendously. So relentless was the pressure that workers did not have even a minute to drink water or use the restroom during their shift. Bangladesh has emerged as a key hub for garment manufacturing, as prices in China have increased dramatically in recent years.
Kornit launches new printer direct-to-garment printer
Kornit Digital has launched a super-industrial, next-generation direct-to-garment printing platform. Called Atlas, it is designed for high-volume production, delivering the highest productivity and the most impressive standards of top retail print quality and optimized cost of ownership.
Kornit Digital is a market leader in digital textile printing innovation. Atlas is the first instance of the company’s next-generation direct-to-garment printing platform, providing garment decorators and screen printers a unique tool for mastering the current and future challenges of the textile supply chain.
The Kornit Atlas is a heavy-duty system created for super-industrial garment decoration businesses. It was designed to deliver a typical annual production capacity of up to 350,000 impressions, optimizing production efficiency and cost of ownership. It is aimed at highly productive garment decorators, mid to large size screen printers and innovative businesses looking to combine state-of-the art technology with the lowest cost of ownership.
The system is equipped with new recirculating print heads and comes with a newly developed ink, NeoPigment Eco-Rapid. Featuring an enhanced version of Kornit’s HD technology, it is complemented by a professional raster image processing software solution and produces prints that meet the highest standards of retail quality and durability. The all-new Atlas will allow for easy future network connectivity required to support fleet management and optimization of global multi-systems and multi-site enterprises.
Archroma’s advanced denim dyeing solutions saves 92 per cent water
Archroma has innovative and sustainable solutions for denim and casual wear manufacturers and brands. From fiber to finish, Archroma offers textile manufacturers and brand owners tailor-made solutions.
Denisol is a newly developed pre-reduced liquid indigo solution that is manufactured in Archroma’s zero liquid discharge manufacturing plant in Pakistan. The new aniline-free Denisol Pure Indigo 30 can be used together with Archroma’s dyeing auxiliaries for customised dyeing system solutions. Archroma’s Advanced Denim dyeing technology allows savings of up to 92 per cent in water, 87 per cent in cotton waste and 30 per cent in energy compared to a conventional denim dyeing process.
The technology has been adopted by prestigious brands including Patagonia. Archroma, a leader in color and specialty chemicals, challenges the status quo with the aim of making the industry sustainable and offers solutions that are safe, efficient and enhanced.
Diresul RDT Ocean Blues is a collection of vibrant, ocean-themed bright sulphur blue dyes. These dyes and their auxiliaries bring out the best of indigo, improve workability, dyeing consistency and process safety. They can be combined with the Denisol Indigo range in bottoming/topping manufacturing routes – to create exciting avant-garde blue styles. Diresul Fast Black RDT is an exclusive sulphur black dyestuff technology that is fast to chlorine and resistant to the strong oxidative agents applied on home laundry.
CCI organises seminar highlighting advantages of US cotton
Cotton Council International (CCI), in collaboration with the Indonesian Textile Association (API), CCI presented a seminar titled: Advantages of US Cotton Textiles Products and Future Fashion Trends in the Global Market. The seminar attended by Jane Singer, Director & Head-Market Intelligence, Inside Fashion Group stated that 2019 fashion trends cover everything from coral to tie-dyed denim. Singer shared the results of his observations about the main changes that occurred in the retail market and changes in consumer attitudes.
He underlined the important role of the quality of materials used by factories to produce clothing, in order to validate brand or brand quality claims. He further emphasised that role of good quality products in determining the brand value. According to him, American cotton is the right choice for entrepreneurs as a basic material for textile production and materials for fashion creations that will be created this year.
COTTON USA ™ technology innovation is very useful for fashion production according to this year's fashion trends. Then, customers today tend to be willing to pay extra for functional clothing.
While in his presentation, Andy Do, Representative of CCI Indonesia's Program said that COTTON USA ™ is always committed to assisting manufacturing industries in understanding fashion trends. Another concern is the use of the latest technology, and the advantages of using American cotton to create new opportunities and other benefits for entrepreneurs and more broadly, for the Indonesian textile industry.
Bangladesh yarn and fabric show opens on January 23
A yarn and fabric show will be held in Bangladesh from January 23 to 25, 2019. The aim is to introduce latest sophisticated yarn, fabrics, accessories and emerging technologies to the textile and garment industry. Over 370 exhibitors from 22 countries will showcase textile products that include the latest trends and technologies in fabrics, accessories, ready-to-wear and industrial fabrics, innovative and smart fabrics and many more.
The exhibition will enable textile and apparel industry buyers to meet local and overseas textile and yarn manufacturers face to face for the best qualities and reasonable prices. There are seven garment factories in Bangladesh that are among the top 10 environmentally-compliant readymade garment factories around the world. The country has a target of reaching $50 billion in textile exports by 2021.
Currently Bangladesh imports viscose worth billions a year which can be easily saved by producing it in the country. Production of viscose fiber has proved more profitable than production of readymade garments. Bangladesh has made a deal with China for building a plant to make viscose fiber from jute using Chinese technology and finance.
China is the top exporter of apparel products in the world while Bangladesh stands second.
Bangladesh may miss export targets
Bangladesh may fail to meet readymade garment export targets. Reasons include: rising cost of doing business and mounting conflict between workers and owners on wages. Workers’ protests have sparked clashes between police and workers and killed at least one worker and wounded dozens more.
The country’s readymade garment industry accounts for 80 per cent of Bangladesh’s merchandise export earnings and serves some of the biggest brands in the world. Bangladesh raised the minimum monthly wage for the garment sector’s four million workers by 51 per cent from December. But workers say their raise was less than this and unions, which warn the strikes may spread, say the hike fails to compensate for price rises in recent years.
Wages were hiked after five years. But in five years the cost of living has increased more than the wage hike. However, rising trade disputes between the US and China have opened the window of opportunity for Bangladesh to increase exports. China, the world’s largest exporter of apparel, is seeing its apparel companies migrate to countries with cheaper labor costs. US sanctions on Chinese technology companies are expected to accelerate the trend. Another advantage Bangladesh has is cheap labor costs.
Superga to launch A/W19 Alexa Chung Collection at MODA
MODA, to be held from February 17-19, 2019 in Birmingham, NEC will attract an array of sought-after footwear and accessories brands. It will include the UK launch of the AW19 Alexa Chung collection for Superga. The new collection will be launched in collaboration with Alexa Chung, as well as a host of new colors, animal prints, fluoro colourways, sport luxe trainers for women, and corduroy and military styles for men.
Superga launched the Classic Superga 2750 style in 1911in Italy. The 2750 became established as “the People's Shoe of Italy”, and Superga increased its product line with technical sport shoes, rubber rain boots and a growing range of colours and styles.
Delivering a high quality and cost-effective platform for mid-market brands and a commercially viable and convenient buying environment for retailers across the UK and Ireland, MODA will bring together over 1,200 collections under one roof at the NEC Birmingham from brands including: Geox, Loake, Birkenstock, Chatham, Fly London, Steptronic, Rieker, Hotter, Bugatti, Lunar, Alpe, Suzie Blue, Zohara (bags), Gabys, Tilley & Grace, Suzanne Bettley, Max & Ellie, Tempest Designs, Whiteley Fischer Hats, and Pineapple Island.
Bangladesh apparel exports to India up 143 per cent
Bangladesh’s apparel exports to India grew 143 per cent in December. The value of Bangladesh’s knitwear exports rose 107 per cent in July to December 2018 compared to July to December 2017. The value of woven exports rose 161 per cent.
India has been grown into a big market for Bangladesh’s apparel exporters. Last fiscal, Bangladesh’s apparel exports witnessed 100 per cent gain in India – a trend which is continuing this year and expected to rise. India recently introduced a uniform taxing policy across its states – lifting a major trade barrier and proving a boon for business. Also, international brands and stores are opening up in India, which demand more apparel products from Bangladesh.
Also, many renowned fashion brands are exploring Indian market now – opening up outlets across its states. These fashion brands and outlets are demanding apparel items from Bangladesh. Since giant business groups such as Reliance and Tata have opened up retail chains across India, this is an opportunity for Bangladesh to act as a prominent supplier to them.
Another fact is that the Indian domestic market has grown and the number of fashion conscious consumers has increased. This is a win-win situation for both countries since Bangladesh imports readymade garment raw materials such as cotton and machinery from India.
Government schemes boost textile growth, imports cause concern: CITI
"There is positivity in the entire textile value chain thanks to the pragmatic approach adopted by the government, says Confederation of Indian Textile Industry (CITI) has said. However, rising imports of textile products remains a key area of worry. As per Sanjay Jain, Chairman, CITI, the RBI Financial Stability Report for December 2018, stressed advance ratio of textile sub-sector has declined to 18.70 per cent in September 2018 from 23.70 per cent in September 2017."
There is positivity in the entire textile value chain thanks to the pragmatic approach adopted by the government, says Confederation of Indian Textile Industry (CITI) has said. However, rising imports of textile products remains a key area of worry. As per Sanjay Jain, Chairman, CITI, the RBI Financial Stability Report for December 2018, stressed advance ratio of textile sub-sector has declined to 18.70 per cent in September 2018 from 23.70 per cent in September 2017.
Robust growth noted for textile and apparels
Jain points out as per Ministry of Commerce & Industry, DGCI&S, Quick Estimates data for November ’18, textiles and apparel exports in November 2018 grew 14 per cent to Rs 18,965 crore (US$ 2.69 bn) as compared to Rs 16,707 crore(US$ 2.37 bn) in November 2017. Apparel exports over the same period grew 21 per cent. The IIP production data for T&C also witnessed a robust year-on-year growth during October 2018 as compared to October 2017. Textiles and apparel sectors registered a growth of 6.2 per cent and 28 per cent, respectively during October 2018.
Government support boosts growth
Jain believes, this positive trend in the entire textile value chain is the result of the pragmatic approach shown by the Union
Minister of Finance, Minister of Commerce and Industry and Civil Aviation and Minister of Textiles, on the issues of T&C industry. The government too has supported the industry by disbursing Rs 1,300 crore (US$ 1.84 bn) funds for the Samarth Scheme, Rs 6000 crore (US$ .85 bn) Apparel & Made-ups Package along with various state incentives; resolution of GST related issues, increase in import duty of various textile and apparel commodities, etc. Jain expressed his deep gratitude to the ministers for their timely policy support and intervention to boost the industry which was under severe stress especially after the implementation of GST.
Imports needs attention
Jain also highlights some of the other prominent schemes that Ministry of Textiles has introduced for the development of entire textile value chain. These include: Scheme for Integrated Textile Park (SITP) and Integrated Processing Development Scheme (IPDS) which have been extended and notified from 2017 to 2020 and Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme (TUFS) under which A-TUFS has been launched for 2016-2022.
However, one key area of concern today is continuously rising textile imports which needs immediate attention and government support. All the categories across value chain have seen a drastic rise in imports during Jan-Oct 2018 vis-à-vis same period last year.












