Lenzing Group, a leading global producer of wood-based specialty fibers, is revolutionizing the fiber supply chain with a real-time ocean shipment tracker. In partnership with project44, this tracker aligns with Lenzing's sustainability goals, offering carbon emissions visibility and enhancing customer experiences.

To combat supply chain complexities, Lenzing integrates a real-time API between SAP and project44's Movement platform, bolstered by AI, GPS sensors, and machine learning. Customers gain real-time insights, including shipment status, container location, vessel routes, and estimated arrival times worldwide.

Thomas Panholzer, VP Global Supply Chain at Lenzing, emphasizes the importance of transparency and sustainability, promoting carbon emission tracking to collaborate with customers in reducing emissions.

Lenzing's tracker provides carbon emission data accredited by GLEC, enabling partners to set emission targets and adjust shipments accordingly. Jett McCandless, CEO of project44, highlights the power of collaboration in supply chain visibility.

Lenzing's VP of Global Sales Textiles, Jayaraman Sethuraman, supports the journey to reduce carbon emissions. The Pallavaa Group, a partner, expresses readiness for carbon-neutral solutions.

Lenzing IT's Christian Platzer underlines their commitment to enhancing transparency and customer satisfaction. Starting in September, Lenzing's ocean shipment tracker becomes accessible worldwide.

The textile and apparel sector is rapidly aligning with other manufacturing sectors to increase sustainability and decrease its carbon footprint. In a world full of colors, shades, hues and tints, fabric manufacturing that includes dyeing is not only one of the two main action points but also the single most polluting part of the entire textile manufacturing process, emitting a whopping 52 per cent of the sector’s carbon emissions. 

Compared to extracting raw material or processing raw material to yarn that are responsible for 24 per cent and 15 per cent of carbon emission in the textile manufacturing process, the difference is just disproportionately large. Additionally, the dyeing and the subsequent washing process also consume 74 per cent of the water required in the manufacturing of textiles. 

Dyeing it right

Headquartered in Hoofddorp, Netherlands, DyeCoo has more than 20 years of experience in carbon-dioxide technology. With extensive knowledge in design and engineering of Carbon-dioxide equipment, and factories in five different countries, DyeCoo provides clean textile processing solutions on an industrial scale. Its revolutionary Carbon-Dioxide Dyeing is a groundbreaking technology now being used globally to cut down water usage by half and carbon-emission by 90 per cent.  

For the last 13 years textile manufacturers in the Netherlands, Taiwan and many other South East Asian textile hubs such as Vietnam and Indonesia. Nike, Adidas and Ikea are keen backers of this sustainability-forward process and prefer their vendors to use it for their products. 

The DyeCoo process involves release of carbon-dioxide under high pressure, turning the gas into a gaseous liquid replacing water as the substrate to mix the dye and colour the fabric. Hence, its claim of zero water dyeing is indeed true. The process which involves stainless steel dyeing vat connected to a tank of carbon-dioxide with an adjustable pressure valve also has a built-in system that can recycle up to 95 per cent of the carbon-dioxide used for dyeing thereby making its claim of cutting down carbon-dioxide emission drastically is also true. However, it should be noted that water is used in the post-dyeing rinsing process as this is inevitable for now. 

Other innovations in dyeing

Debs Corporation of Japan claims its patented process termed AirDry transfers dye from paper to fabric via a printer-like machine. This technology does not claim zero water usage – it only uses 95 per cent less water than standard processes and it saves up to 86 per cent of energy cost for the dyeing process, a true marvel in sustainability and cost-efficiency. British innovating start-up Alchemie Technology also lays claims to a process quite similar to that of AirDry. Swiss HeiQ Clean Tech states that its dyeing technology reduces the dyeing time of polyester with dispersed dyestuffs by 35 per cent, and is the best dyeing technology for polyester textiles. 

Indian technology focused on waterless dyeing

Mumbai-based Deven Supercriticals has a patented technology Suprauno which claims to be completely water-free dyeing of any textile using legacy dyes and not limited to new technology-driven dyes that are currently expensive. Thanks to its realistic technology, Suprauno is being on-boarded by many Indian textile manufacturing units who are not interested in investing in expensive new-fangled colorants. 

Many small enterprises in Tirupur are now showing interest in transferring from the traditionally used chemical dyes to bio-based dyes. Whilst the latter is more expensive and the process more time consuming, owners of small textile mills and dyeing units have felt the impact of chemical dyeing effluents polluting the town’s agricultural lands and water bodies and are making an effort to arrest the growing levels of toxicity in Tirupur.

Better Cotton, the world's largest cotton sustainability initiative, will play a pivotal role in the World Trade Organization's Public Forum by hosting a panel discussion on traceability within fashion and textile supply chains. The session, titled 'Traceability as the Key Enabler for Improving the Sustainability of Cotton Value Chains,' is scheduled for September 15th in Geneva, Switzerland.

Jacky Broomhead, Senior Traceability Manager at Better Cotton, will moderate the discussion, featuring experts like Maria Teresa Pisani from the UN's UNECE, Gregory Sampson from the ITC, Jeremy Thimm from GOTS, and Josh Taylor, also from Better Cotton. This panel will examine how traceability can enhance sustainability in cotton value chains, particularly in light of tightening diligence regulations, investor demands, and evolving consumer expectations.

Better Cotton's upcoming traceability solution, after two years of development, will provide supply chain visibility by tracking transactions between stakeholders. This technology will empower fashion retailers and brands to identify the origin of their cotton and the percentage of Better Cotton in their products.

Furthermore, traceability will strengthen the connection between farmers and supply chains, laying the groundwork for Better Cotton's Impact Marketplace, rewarding farmers for adopting sustainable practices.

Jacky Broomhead emphasized the need for collaboration to ensure that traceability benefits the entire textile industry and remains accessible and inclusive. The discussion at the Public Forum promises to shed light on the path toward more sustainable cotton supply chains.

In a strategic move, Propper International Inc, a major supplier to the United States armed forces and other law enforcement markets, has teamed up with Coats Digital to implement the GSDCost solution. This innovative collaboration aims to revolutionize Propper's production operations by leveraging data-driven methodologies. The adoption of GSDCost promises to usher in a new era of streamlined efficiency, enhanced line balancing, and improved capacity planning processes for Propper International.

Propper International, known for manufacturing over 120 million garments for the U.S. Department of Defense and catering to a global workforce of 1,400, seeks to boost its manufacturing prowess further. The decision to adopt GSDCost stems from the need to replace time-consuming manual procedures with accurate, data-backed processes. The solution is projected to yield efficiency improvements ranging from 3% to 7% in its inaugural year.

Eric Marambio, Engineering Manager at Propper International Inc., expressed enthusiasm for the transformational potential of GSDCost. He highlighted structured sewing operation methods, achievable production goals, and accurate Standard Minute Values (SMV) calculations as some of the invaluable benefits the tool offers. The user-friendly interface and robust data sharing capabilities are expected to elevate Propper's product ranges quickly and successfully.

This collaboration aligns with Propper's goal to eliminate deficiencies in time, cost, and method analyses while ensuring efficient production management through real-time reporting. By reducing reliance on Excel spreadsheets, Propper aims to bridge the gap between planners and operators, thereby minimizing confusion, incorrect line balancing, and resource wastage.

Georgina Vazquez, Project Manager at Coats Digital, commended Propper's choice of GSDCost as a means to optimize production using scientifically proven methods. The implementation promises to enhance efficiency, ultimately positioning Propper International as a leader in the industry.

Coats Digital's GSDCost solution, based on the GSD methodology, is recognized as an international standard in the sewn products industry. It facilitates collaboration, transparency, and sustainability throughout the supply chain, allowing for accurate cost prediction and a more efficient garment manufacturing process. This strategic partnership exemplifies Propper International's commitment to excellence and growth in the market.

Santoni Shanghai Knitting Machinery Co., Ltd., a leading manufacturer of circular knitting machines, has acquired Terrot GmbH, a German company with a long history in the industry. The acquisition will help Santoni Shanghai to build a more integrated and scaled-up ecosystem for circular knitting machines.

The global circular knitting machine market is expected to grow significantly in the coming years, driven by the increasing demand for breathable and comfortable knitted fabrics. Santoni Shanghai believes that the acquisition of Terrot will help it to better seize this market opportunity.

Terrot is a well-respected company with a strong reputation for quality and innovation. Its products are used by leading textile manufacturers and brands all over the world. The acquisition will give Santoni Shanghai access to Terrot's technology and expertise, which will help it to develop new and innovative products.

The acquisition is also a strategic move by Santoni Shanghai to consolidate the circular knitting industry. The company believes that by combining its resources with Terrot's, it will be able to create a more efficient and competitive industry.

The acquisition is subject to regulatory approval. If approved, it is expected to close in the coming months.

In addition to the headline, here are some other key points from the text:

• The acquisition will help Santoni Shanghai to build a more integrated and scaled-up ecosystem for circular knitting machines.

• The global circular knitting machine market is expected to grow significantly in the coming years.

• Terrot is a well-respected company with a strong reputation for quality and innovation.

• The acquisition will give Santoni Shanghai access to Terrot's technology and expertise.

• The acquisition is a strategic move by Santoni Shanghai to consolidate the circular knitting industry.

German Industry Leaders to Host Symposium on Warp Knitted Elastic Fabrics in Surat, India

Leading German companies Brückner, Groz-Beckert, the Karl Mayer Group, and Thies are hosting a symposium on warp knitted elastic fabrics in Surat, India. The event will take place on October 11 and 12, 2023, at the Marriott Hotel Surat.

The symposium is open to representatives of the Indian textile industry.

Background

• Warp knitted elastic fabrics are in high demand due to their versatility and stretchability.

• The Indian textile sector is well-positioned to capitalize on this demand.

• However, the manufacturing process for warp knitted elastic fabrics is different from traditional methods.

Symposium Objectives

• The symposium aims to provide information and guidance to the Indian warp knitting industry.

• It will cover topics such as:

o The production of warp knitted elastic fabrics

o The latest technologies and innovations in warp knitting

o Best practices in the industry

Highlights

• Warp knitted elastic fabrics: A versatile and stretchable fabric that is in high demand.

• Indian textile sector: Well-positioned to capitalize on the demand for warp knitted elastic fabrics.

• Different manufacturing process: The manufacturing process for warp knitted elastic fabrics is different from traditional methods.

• Symposium objectives: Provide information and guidance to the Indian warp knitting industry.

• Benefits of attending: A unique opportunity to share knowledge and experience, foster growth and innovation, and gain valuable insights.

The company has been preparing for the sale for four months.

They have analyzed customer behavior, identified demand patterns, and prioritized categories and products.

Flipkart's value commerce division, Shopsy, is expecting a remarkable growth of more than double in all significant performance indicators during its annual festive sale known as the "Grand Shopsy Mela," which commenced on September 11.

A senior executive from the company revealed during a discussion with ETRetail that preparations for this yearly festive sale commenced approximately four months ago. Their strategic efforts encompassed the comprehensive analysis of customer behavior, identification of demand patterns, prioritization of categories and products, and determination of price points to emphasize.

Entrepreneurial Vision Ayushi Gudwani, the Founder and CEO of FS Life, has redefined the landscape of women's fashion with her innovative approach. 

After a fruitful 7-year stint at McKinsey & Co., where she specialized in strategy, growth, and scalability, Ayushi embarked on an entrepreneurial journey in September 2016. 

Her motivation stemmed from personal frustration in finding well-fitted and comfortable western workwear in India. 

Solving the Fit Challenge 

Ayushi recognized the underexplored market for women's workwear and undertook extensive research, personally measuring 200 women to gather valuable sizing data. 

This data formed the foundation of FS Life's sizing algorithm, catering to Indian body types from XS to XXL, even offering tailored options. 

Adapting to Changing Times 

With the pandemic reshaping workwear demands, FS Life underwent a significant transformation. 

Fable Street expanded into a multi-category western wear brand, introducing evening wear and more. This success story paved the way for the launch of two sister brands - March and Pink Fort - within a short span. 

Awards and Recognition 

Despite her non-fashion background, Ayushi's risk-taking and dedication bore fruit. She earned accolades such as BW 40 under 40 (2022), Fortune India 40 under 40 (2021), 'Queen of Workwear' by India Today (2022), and the 'Incredible Women Achiever' title from the Indian Chamber of Commerce (2022). 

Ayushi's achievements 

Her good work also earned her a place among five women entrepreneurs invited to the Global Victoria Women’s (GVw) 2020 Summit in Australia. 

Future Prospects In September 2022, FS Life secured 50 crores in Pre-Series B funding from Fireside Ventures, positioning itself for further online expansion and the launch of offline stores. 

The impact of climate change is here and how.  Random flooding is commonplace and summer heat waves are the new normal. From the US to Australia, from Japan to Germany, climate change the new reality the world is grappling with alongside inflation, political conflict and wave after wave of uncertainty. 

In this mix, there is the writing on the wall for readymade garment manufacturing hubs that the continual cycle of flooding and heat waves will have a huge detrimental impact. Analysis by Cornell University’s Global Labor Institute and Schroders has stated this could mean not only losses to the tune of $65 billion but also a loss of over a million jobs in this sector by 2030 – bearing the brunt of this colossal damage would be primarily Pakistan, Bangladesh, Cambodia and Vietnam, followed by parts of China, India, Sri Lanka, Mauritius, Myanmar, Thailand and Nicaragua amongst others. 

The study included 32 garment manufacturing hubs spread across the world. Researchers mapped the supply chain footprint of six global apparel brands across the four production centers. The findings show workers and manufacturers for all six face productivity impacts from extreme heat and flooding

The realty on sectoral impact 

Researchers looked at the climate vulnerable apparel industries in Bangladesh, Cambodia, Pakistan and Vietnam, which collectively represent 18 per cent of global apparel exports, house approximately 10,000 apparel and footwear factories and employ 10.6 million workers. In a communiqué, Angus Bauer, Head of Sustainable Investment Research at Schroders commented: “Rising heat stress and intense flooding represent $65 billion in would be export earnings and nearly one million forgone jobs for key apparel producing regions for 2030, increasing significantly for 2050. These issues pose material risks for brands, retailers and investors as they manifest either through productivity losses, stranded assets or both. This research highlights the urgent need for action. Investors must begin to engage with apparel companies and their stakeholders to ensure they start to measure and address the significant challenges of physical climate impacts on workers and business models. Furthermore, apparel companies must look to partner with suppliers, and work with peers, worker organisations and policy makers to design suitable adaptation strategies that consider the impact on workers. Adaptation planning could have positive returns on investment for the industry and is a critical addition to mitigation efforts.” 

In the same communiqué, Cornell University’s Global Labor Institute’s executive director Jason Judd said, “Flooding and extreme heat pose significant risk to every constituency in global apparel production — workers, manufacturers, regulators, investor and brands themselves. But no one is factoring the on-the-ground costs of climate breakdown into their planning. The apparel industry and regulators have mostly framed their climate responses around mitigation issues—emissions, water usage, and recycled fabrics. They are ignoring the climate issues that are dramatically and directly affecting suppliers and their workers now. The Global North’s climate nightmares are already in evidence in Bangladesh, Pakistan, Cambodia and elsewhere. Life, let alone work, will become very difficult in these and many other hotspots that apparel brands and retailers depend on for production.”

The way forward

Readymade garment factory workers need protection from extreme heat conditions in the work place. Currently nothing exists in place to provide these vulnerable employees relief from constant deluge and rising heat waves. These alarming situations should be given the status of health hazard and adequate investments must be made to protect their lives and lifestyle. In order to deal with the day-to-day costs of climate breakdown, workers need social protection systems in place and living wages. 

Bangladesh’s biggest foreign exchange revenue is from readymade garment exports wherein it enjoys the position of being the world’s second largest exporter after China. When this South Asian nation’s apparel exporters face a challenge due to escalating yarn prices in the domestic market, it puts this competitive sector that works in slim margins and places the sector in a precarious position. Bangladesh’s textile mills have cited multiple reasons why they have been forced to increase the price of yarn and they are legitimate reasons. 

Buy local yarn, save the dollar

Bangladesh has been facing serious foreign exchange shortage for last few years and managed to secure a IMF loan, at the beginning of the year. The Bangladesh Textile Mills Association (BTMA), has been continually urging local manufacturers and exporters of readymade garments to buy locally produced yarn and save forex spent on importing. Industry leaders, economists and government advisors have also promoted this idea on how to support the local textile mills and prevent stockpiling of inventory and save the  dollar for importing more important items. 

Moreover, local garment manufacturers prefer using locally-made yarn instead of imported ones to maintain the current lead times of 45 to 60 days demanded by buyers, whereas earlier it was 90 to 120 days. However, textile mills have had to contend with high energy costs and higher cost of raw material, necessitating them to increase yarn prices. The most -consumed 30-carded yarn, used for less expensive, more basic projects, has been selling between $3.50 and $3.60 per kg whereas it was $2.90 to $3.10 a month ago, say textile mill owners. Faruque Hassan, President, Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA), say as orders for readymade garment export as well as for locally produced textiles have increased, mills have leveraged the demand to increase the price of yarn to make up for years of losses and static inventory. 

RMG manufacturers face the heat

Readymade garment makers are rightfully perplexed by the price rise as it cuts drastically into their already slim margins, prompting them to head for sources that are cheaper. BGMEA spokesperson Mohammed Ali Khokon stated that in the first week of July 2023, the price of 30-card yarn in the domestic market stood at $ 3.20 per ounce and that within the month, jumped to $ 3.50, and increase of $0.30 cents. Indeed, Khokon understands that textile mills have been operating under losses for a while with energy and raw material costs on an upward spiral, it hits the RMG sector hard.

Apparently, BGMEA members had agreed to pay a slight premium to purchase locally-produced yarn in show of solidarity and support but the recent price spikes are beginning to hurt their interests. Many BGMEA members are of the idea that yarn be imported as they can sources at lesser price. However, there are two roadblocks to this as well – the lead time will become longer and affect the running of production to meet deadlines. The other crucial problem is that Bangladesh’s foreign currency reserves are being built on by the government, making it difficult for individual manufacturers secure dollars for importing yarn that is readily available in the country. 

At the moment, Bangladesh needs to leverage the increase in orders and make the most of their competitive pricing – the two bodies BTMA and BGMEA need to work with the government to sort out the bottleneck.