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Cambodia’s earnings from exports of apparel and accessories in the first eight months of 2022 were up by 28 per cent.

These accounted for 41 per cent of total January to August exports, inching up by just 0.81 percentage points year-on-year.However, although exports in August alone were up 0.46 per cent year-on-year, this represents a 23 per cent drop from July’s figure, which had risen 27.82 per cent over June.

The uptick in garment exports has been credited to relatively normal production in the country as exporters elsewhere face Covid-linked disruptions.

But the industry in Cambodia has started seeing a reduction in orders last month, reversing a seven-month long trend of increases, due to global economic uncertainty and a slew of other hurdles.This situation is expected to prolong until the end of the year or longer. The garment sector’s top markets are, in order, the US, EU, Japan, Canada and the UK. However the situation in EU is not good at the moment. So orders in general for Cambodia will not see positive results in the second half.

Last year, Cambodia’s exports of apparel and clothing accessories rose by eight per cent over the figure logged in 2020.

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Taiwan is making a strong bid for membership in the Comprehensive and Progressive Trans-Pacific Partnership (CPTPP).

The country has made amendments to various rules and domestic laws such as establishing the maximum residue level for pork ractopamine and opening the importation of food from Japan. Eleven laws have been identified for amendment to comply with the provisions of the CPTPP, including areas concerning the environment, intellectual property rights, pharmaceuticals and services.

Taiwan has corrected discrepancies between domestic laws and CPTPP obligations.Taiwan’s economic development depends greatly on trade, and bilateral and regional economic integration. In 2021, 24 per cent of Taiwan’s trade in goods came from CPTPP members. Japan, Singapore, Malaysia, Vietnam and Australia are all among Taiwan’s top ten trading partners.

Taiwan expects to leverage its smart machinery and manufacturing capabilities to help CPTPP partners establish smart manufacturing hubs. And Taiwan’s accession to the CPTPP will mean member states will be entitled to tariff cuts in sourcing textile materials from Taiwan.

CPTPP member countries are Mexico, Japan, Singapore, Australia, New Zealand, Canada, Vietnam, Peru, Malaysia, Brunei, and Chile.

The global economy and trade have seen rapid changes in recent years, with the Covid pandemic accelerating the restructuring of the international supply chain.

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Archroma prides itself not as product sellers but system sellers. With Archroma’s deep dive system color book, for instance, customers can take a deep shade and they will be guided on how to make that shade in terms of pre-treatment in knit fabrics. The company offers all kinds of after-chemical treatments that the textile industry has been demanding. So in athletic wear, for instance, the company has bacteria control for medical applications. And there are non-iron shirt chemical ranges for people who are starting going to the office again.

Archroma is a leading specialty chemicals company committed to innovation, quality, service, cost-efficiency and sustainability.

This is one of the biggest textile chemical companies globally and one of the most customer-centric companies, Based in Switzerland, the company operates a highly integrated, customer-focused platform that delivers specialized performance and color solutions in more than 100 countries.

Archroma has acquired Huntsman Textile Effects. Both companies are known for sustainability and innovation and complement each other. Archroma is stronger in chemicals than in dyes, whereas, for Huntsman, its textile effects business in dyes is stronger. The two can bring to the global customers the full i.e. end-to-end range of textile dyes and chemical products.

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India has withdrawn the anti-dumping duty on imports of hydrogen peroxide from Bangladesh.

The duty was imposed in June 2017. Removal of the duty would enhance exports of the chemical from Bangladesh to India. Before the tariff was slapped, exporters shipped up to 3000 tons of the chemical a month.

Anti-dumping duty is a protectionist tariff that a country imposes on imported products on the ground that the products are priced below the fair market value. In order to protect local industries many countries impose such duties on the products they believe are being dumped in their markets.

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Moroccan clothing exports to the European Union (EU) climbed by 33 per cent in the first half of 2022.

With a three per cent market share, Morocco is the EU’s second clothing supplier, behind Turkey but ahead of Tunisia. In addition to the growing exports, Morocco’s average costs in the clothing industry have risen by nearly 14 per cent in a year, ranking sixth among the EU’s top ten suppliers behind Bangladesh, China, Cambodia, Vietnam and Pakistan.

Morocco is becoming a growingly attractive destination for global textile companies. Several brands from the European Union, the UK and the US have been sealing deals with Moroccan companies in the textile industry.

The world’s leading textile groups are migrating from traditional Asian manufacturers to closer markets offering favorable conditions, such as Morocco.Logistical costs, the downturn caused by the pandemic and the increase of salaries in China have induced western textile giants to look for more favorable partners.

Distributors who used to buy exclusively in Asia are now shopping in Morocco. Morocco now has an opportunity to become a major textile player. But there is a need to provide credit insurance for Moroccan producers to ease the export process.Moroccan textile companies which are largely specialized in packaging need to step up and become producers of finished products.

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UK fashion industry calls for greater clarity on trade with EU

Even after 18 months of UK officially leaving the European Union, the country has failed to resolve bilateral trade issues. As Mark Neale, CEO, Mountain Warehouse opines, supplying materials to retail stores in Europe has become more complicated and tiresome post Brexit. Increased costs and bureaucracy have made trading more challenging in the region with sales of smaller brands and businesses declining.

Customs duties hitting fashion exports

Goods not manufactured in the UK and EU are being subjected to customs duty while crossing the UK-EU border. As a Drapers Online report reveals this is creating profound issues that have become even more complex in the past 18 months. Suppliers are splitting their shipments before dispatching them. They are shipping directly to a warehouse in the EU and separately to a warehouse in the UK, leading to a significant costs escalation.

And as Simon Berwin, Owner, Simon Berwin Advisory and Former Managing Director, Berwin & Berwin explains, his fashion clients are losing customers as they have been unable to supply products into Europe due to an increase in duties. The duties paid by UK businesses and consumers on goods imported into the country have surged by 62 per cent to £4.7 billion. Fashion exports have also been hit hard because of higher duty and customs charges.

UK textile and leather exports to the EU have declined 45 per cent compared to the rest of the world, indicates a Resolution Foundation and the London School of Economic report. The report ‘The Economy 2030 Enquiry: The Big Brexit’, assesses the scale of change caused by Brexit. It attributes the fall in export relationships to the inability of SMEs to afford the costs of non-tariff trade barriers or comply with the rules of origin requirements under the EU-UK Trade and Co-operation Agreement (TCA). And as Guy Mor, Co-founder, 3RD Rock says, many small businesses are dealing with rising shipping, VAT charges and duties. However, businesses can recover import VAT duties through a VAT registration in the EU country of import.

Need for greater clarity on trade issues

In force since January 2021, the Northern Ireland protocol of Brexit withdrawal agreement governs the unique customs and immigration issues at the border in Ireland between the UK and Northern Ireland and the European Union. The remaining of Northern Ireland as a part of the EU for supplies/movements of goods makes certain customs formalities applicable to goods moving between Northern Ireland and Great Britain. This increases the administrative burden of the EU as Northern Ireland requires special border with the Union.

Experts point out, issues are arising because of the requirement of border checks by EU on goods imported from non-EU countries. This is resulting in customs checks at Northern Irish ports, he adds. The UK government is looking to simplify trade between Great Britain and Northern Ireland. But this is threatening its relationship with the EU and creating issues with respect to a united Ireland.

The fashion industry is also calling for greater clarity and a honest dialogue on trade issues with Europe, sums up William Bain, Head - Trade Policy, British Chambers of Commerce.

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Cambodia’s exports from January 2022 to August 2022 were up 26 percent compared to the same period in 2021.

The total value of the country’s international trade rose by 21 percent. Imports increased by 18 percent during the period. Exports increased by 37 per cent.

The US is the biggest market for Cambodia’s products. Vietnam and China are the second and third markets. Garment, footwear, and travel goods have the country’s biggest share of total exports, but the non-garment product exports are on a significant increase.

New factories opening up are viewed as investors’ high confidence. Promulgated investment law and free trade pacts bilaterally and multilaterally are also factors that have opened the markets for Cambodia-made products as well as attracted new foreign direct investments.

But due to the signs of an impending recession in the US and Europe, demand and purchase orders have seen significant drops in the second half of 2022.A quarter of garment manufacturers in Cambodia are looking to partially suspend operations in September or may require their workers to work less hours. Operations in some 100 factories are suspended, affecting around 10,000 workers.The entire sector, consisting over 1,200 garment, travel goods and footwear manufacturers, employs about one million workers.

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Bangladesh expects to get a ten per cent share of the global apparel market by 2030.

This hope is based on the potential of the markets in Europe, the UK and the US amid a declining share of Chinese garments. But in order to reach the ten per cent target the country has to achieve an annual export growth of 11 per cent.

As Chinese apparel export share is declining in western markets due to the rising tension between the west and China, Bangladesh’s exporters are likely to take advantage of the situation to boost their products. China is moving away from low value-added apparel to more sophisticated items, and this can be an advantage for Bangladesh’s apparel exporters.

However Bangladesh has to deal with issues like logistics, port handling capacity and skilled labor, environment and labor rights. Bangladesh must focus on AI-developed equipment, skilled labor and labor wage satisfaction to face the challenges in the coming years.

In fiscal 2021-22 Bangladesh’s export share was up by 36 per cent year-on-year. Earnings from July to August grew by 26 per cent compared to the same period of the last fiscal year. Bangladesh’s apparel exports to the EU grew by 59 per cent in the January to June period of 2022.

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Retailers look at lower earnings with inflation squeezing consumer buying

 

American Eagle is no longer soaring high as it joins the growing list of premium clothing retailers reporting bleak earnings worldwide. The apparel industry is currently trying to figure out what the consumer wants in post-pandemic period with lower demand as inflation squeezes tight budgets of the average middle-class consumer.

Quarterly revenues lower than expectation

American Eagle recently suspended its dividends as in the latest quarter, it fell 6 per cent from a year ago The company echoed other retailers’ issues with excess inventory and joined the bandwagon of retailers like Macy’s and Nordstrom who have resorted to extreme markdowns to clear products off shelves.

Chief Operating Officer Mike Mathias points out, ‘slowdown in demand’ caused by the macroeconomic environment. Jen Foyle, Chief Merchandising Officer at American Eagle, says the brand’s priorities are “adjusting our assortments and rightsizing inventory.” The need for markdowns to move inventory has upset the bottom line of American Eagle, with the company posting earnings of 4 cents per share for the quarter ending July 30, which fell short of the 13 cents per share expected by industry analysts.

American Eagle Outfitters, the parent company to American Eagle, Aerie, Bodd Synder and Unsubscribed brands have all recently posted dismal quarterly results, falling short on both top and bottom lines but still beating analyst expectations for the three months ending August 1, 2022. Except for intimate brand, Aerie which continues to be the retailer’s crown jewel, the company seems to be flying in grey and troubled skies.

Brand revenues of American Eagle declined 26 per cent during the quarter, while Aerie’s sales surged 32 per cent. Meanwhile, revenues in the company’s e-commerce business grew 74 per cent, or 47 per cent at American Eagle and 142 per cent fir Aerie. App downloads also increased during the quarter by 45 per cent. Even then, the company as a whole lost $13.7 million during the quarter, compared with profits of nearly $65 million at the same time last year. That’s on top of the company’s $257 million loss the quarter before that.

Rival Macy’s also slashed its revenue and earnings forecast for the year, with Chief Financial Officer Adrian Mitchell noting it has had to take necessary markdowns necessary to help clear inventory in all segments as “weakening apparel sales over the quarter as the consumer faces higher costs on essential goods, particularly grocery”.

Other retailers including Walmart, Target, Gap, and Kohl’s have also faced similar problems with bloated inventories and are employing various measures to stay afloat in the post-pandemic inflation-wary consumer. Walmart has focussed on aggressive markdowns to move clothing off their shelves which have led to a significant cut in profit expectations. Gap and Kohl’s, meanwhile, are looking to avoid some markdowns with a “pack-and-hold” strategy for certain items, which allows them to reserve excess inventory until demand rises.

While physical stores are currently loss-making, American Eagle Outfitters has been in expansion mode having launched ecommerce businesses across Japan, Hong Kong, Australia, Malaysia, Taiwan, and Singapore, in addition to a shopping site in Mexico.

However, experts feel by 2023, retailers might be able to adjust more quickly to demand as the supply chain normalizes, although for now, they need to struggle to adjust their offerings. The focus will be on expansion in important international markets where there is significant opportunity for growth, even though these may be smaller countries that were not on the map in pre-covid times.

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Christmas bells jingling for India with export of festive items on the rise

 

The Yuletide is a couple of months away and Indian exporters of Christmas offerings have reasons to deck their companies with successes. It has been reported that India now ranks among the top five countries that makes the festive season merry in the US with offerings of festive T-shirts and decorations. According to US Customs, the total value of festival-related goods has jumped roughly three times compared to last year, with a value of $20 million.

Indian exporters gain edge

India edged out fellow competitor Philippines as buyers spread out with their orders, prompted by China’s strict lockdown as Covid-zero regulation came in to force coupled with rising labour costs. As Amit Malhotra of Asian Handicrafts says, orders are up 20 per cent from a year ago and they have increased production capacity accordingly. This year they have shipped over 3.2 million Christmas products, up from 2.5 million last year.

Even though China exports a sizable portion of Christmas items, a lot of first-time customers have just begun approaching Indian exporters. India exported festive items to over 120 countries already and in 2020-21 (April-Nov), such exports were valued at $39.3 million. Indian government stats show, export of festive-season items increased over 54 per cent from the fiscal 2020 levels in the year that ended in March, while exports of handicrafts increased by about 32 per cent over the same period.

United Arab Emirates, US, Mexico, Thailand and Philippines are the top five importers Indian Christmas items together accounting for 43 per cent of exported items. As Siddharth Jain, Partner in Kearney’s operations and performance practice says, China’s continuous decoupling from the global economy and the post-pandemic recovery presents an opportunity for India to accelerate its investment in lengthy competition and prioritize ‘capable of winning’ areas.

Tapping a growing market

The opportunity doesn’t end with Christmas. Over the past three years, India’s export of handmade carpets has grown substantially. India accounts for roughly 40 per cent of global exports of handmade carpet exports worth $1.37 billion in FY20. From April 20 to February 21 India’s the total carpet exports stood $1.33 billion. It seems global markets have acquired a taste for handmade goods from India. The list includes: woolen, embroidered & crocheted goods, hand printed textile & scarves, brocade among others.

Indeed, India has the potential to overtake China in handcrafted items that not only bring merry during the holiday season but also throughout the year. The big companies that are importing from India include: Walt Disney, Target, Harrods in London and Dillard’s Inc.

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