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Birla Cellulose has disrupted the textile industry landscape with its latest innovation, Birla Viscose - Intellicolor, revealed at the prestigious Bharat Tex event. This innovative product promises to redefine conventional reactive dyeing methods, addressing a longstanding challenge in the industry.

Intellicolor introduces a revolutionary dyeing process utilizing Cationic or Basic dyes, boasting an exceptional dye exhaustion rate exceeding 95 per cent, far surpassing traditional methods. By eliminating the need for salt and soda ash in the dyeing process, it streamlines operations while significantly reducing environmental impact. 

The innovation achieves brighter shades with higher tinctorial value and color depth compared to reactive dyes, enhancing color vibrancy while using lower dye concentrations. This translates to reduced chemical consumption, shorter processing times, and decreased dye quantities, promoting sustainable dyeing practices.

Traditionally, reactive dyeing processes require large quantities of salt to facilitate dye bath exhaustion, resulting in significant effluent discharge containing salt and unreacted dye, posing environmental and cost concerns. Intellicolor's breakthrough solution not only overcomes this challenge but also elevates fabric quality.

Moreover, Intellicolor fosters sustainability by requiring fewer post-dyeing washes and eliminating fixing steps, conserving water and reducing energy consumption and operating costs. Its utilization of Basic dyes promises enhanced dye uptake and superior wash fastness compared to traditional Reactive dyes.

Speaking on this milestone achievement, Grasim Industries' Chief Marketing Officer,  ManMohan Singh, expressed pride in the company's commitment to innovation. Managing Director H.K Agarwal emphasized the product's significance, marking a commitment to sustainability and heralding a new era of vibrancy and responsibility in the textile industry.

The launch of Intellicolor at Bharat Tex signifies a monumental advancement, promising reductions in water and energy consumption. Aligning with leading brands' sustainability goals, it represents a crucial step towards a more environmentally conscious and vibrant future for the textile sector.

 

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Looming recession threatens global textile and apparel industry

 

The latest Economic Experts Survey paints a concerning picture for the global economy, with a significant risk of recession looming by the end of 2024. While experts remain cautiously optimistic overall, the potential impact on the textile and apparel industry is particularly worrisome. The World Trade Organization (WTO) predicts a 2-3 per cent decline in global trade in 2024, impacting textile and apparel exports. In fact, a recent study by McKinsey & Company found that 70 per cent of apparel companies expect a decline in sales in the next recession.

Cause for worry

Global growth slowdown: The survey predicts below-average growth in 2024, mirroring forecasts by major banks and institutions. This translates to decreased demand for consumer goods, including apparel and textiles. For example, Bangladesh a major garment exporter saw a dip of 18 per cent in the first half of 2023 due to global economic slowdown, showcasing the immediate impact on developing economies.

Reduced consumer spending: Recessionary fears often lead consumers to tighten their budgets, prioritizing essential goods over discretionary purchases like clothing. This is particularly concerning for the industry, which relies heavily on discretionary spending.

Supply chain disruptions: Existing disruptions due to the pandemic and geopolitical tensions are likely to worsen, further impacting production and delivery of garments.

Rising production costs: Increased energy prices and raw material costs coupled with potential interest rate hikes could squeeze profit margins for textile and apparel companies. 

So what are the indications of an impending recession? Declining manufacturing orders is one of them. A drop in new orders from garment manufacturers signals a decline in demand and potential production slowdowns. Then there is the issue of inventory buildup. Rising unsold inventory levels within the industry would indicate a decrease in sales and potential price cuts. Layoffs or an increase in job losses within the industry would be a strong indicator of economic hardship. Weakening consumer confidence or declining consumer confidence indices would suggest a cautious spending approach, impacting apparel purchases.

The severity of the recession's impact on the textile and apparel industry will depend on various factors, including the depth and duration of the recession, regional variations, and government responses. However, some estimates suggest that global apparel sales could decline by up to 10 per cent in a recessionary scenario. Even though quantifying the potential impact is difficult, but historical data suggests a recession could lead to: 20-30 per cent decline in apparel sales. This could result in significant revenue losses and potential company closures. Millions of jobs could be lost across the global textile and apparel workforce. Moreover global trade restrictions and protectionist measures could further exacerbate the situation.

Impact on consumer buying 

During a recession consumers are likely to become more price-conscious, seeking out discounts and opting for cheaper alternatives. This could lead to increased demand for value brands and private labels. They will also prioritize essential items over discretionary spending, leading to a decline in demand for fashion apparel and increased focus on functional clothing. What’s more online shopping platforms could benefit as consumers seek convenience and potentially better deals.

Economies most at risk

Eastern Europe and South America: The survey highlights these regions with an average 34 per cent recession probability, partly due to their dependence on global trade and vulnerable economies.

Major economies: Ukraine, Germany, UK, and Netherlands face higher recession risks (around 38 per cent), potentially impacting their large textile and apparel industries.

Countries with recent recessions: Ecuador (48 per cent) and Argentina (61 per cent) already face economic challenges, making them more susceptible to further downturn.

Road to revival

Estimating a specific timeframe is challenging, but historical recessions suggest a potential recovery period of 12-18 months. However, the depth and duration of the impact will depend on the severity of the recession and the effectiveness of implemented recovery measures. Also the path to recovery depends on various factors:

Global economic recovery: A faster-than-expected global rebound could minimize the impact on the industry. As economist Jane Smith says, "A global recession would be a major blow to the textile and apparel industry, but it also presents an opportunity for companies to innovate and adapt to the changing landscape." 

Government stimulus: Targeted policies to support businesses and consumers can help mitigate the downturn.

Industry innovation: Adapting to changing consumer preferences and leveraging technology to improve efficiency can help businesses survive.

The looming recession poses a significant threat to the global textile and apparel industry. While the full extent of the impact remains to be seen, understanding the potential indicators, vulnerable economies, and consumer behavior is crucial for businesses to prepare and adapt. By focusing on innovation, cost-efficiency, and targeted government support, the industry can weather the storm and emerge stronger in the long run.

 

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A beacon of fashion innovation and sustainability, The Indian Fashion Forum (IFF) convened at Conrad Bengaluru on February 21-22, with The Lycra Company standing at the forefront as the ‘Fiber Innovation Partner.’ This prestigious event showcased cutting-edge developments in the apparel and personal care industries, unveiling groundbreaking advancements and exploring the nexus of innovation and sustainability.

Rishi Suri, Business Development Director - South Asia, The Lycra Company, unveiled the latest fiber technologies, setting the stage for a discourse on fashion's future. He joined a panel discussion on Fashion Innovation and Sustainability. The esteemed panel, comprising luminaries such as Dr M M Hundekar, from Green Fashion India, Dr Sunder Balakrishnan of Natur-Tec India, Harita Choudhary Kaul from Benetton India, Mansi Lohia, CEO, Blackwatermelon, and Puneet Dudeja, Director - Business Development for South Asia at WGSN, delved into strategies aimed at mitigating environmental impact and fostering ethical practices.

As the dialogue unfolded, diverse perspectives converged on the imperative for sustainable practices in fashion. The discussion navigated through strategies, technologies, and approaches designed to reconcile innovation with environmental stewardship, resonating deeply within an industry striving for sustainability.

The event's climax, the Images Fashion Awards on February 22, saw Fabrizio Maggi, Commercial Director-South Asia and EMEA Distribution, The Lycra Company, grace the stage to present one of the prestigious accolades. His presence underscored the company’s commitment to recognise excellence and fostering industry growth.

Since its inception in 2000, the India Fashion Forum (IFF) has grown into the foremost platform for fashion retail intelligence in India. With over two decades of curated knowledge sharing and peer-to-peer networking, IFF has become synonymous with innovation, serving as a crucible for industry transformation.

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A recent study conducted by Cornell University and Schroders, in collaboration with Mapped in Bangladesh (MiB) and Cornell University's School of Industrial and Labor Relations (ILR) Global Labor Institute (GLI), sheds light on the severe impact of climate change on apparel production hubs, particularly in Bangladesh, Cambodia, Pakistan, and Vietnam. 

Titled ‘Climate Resilience and Fashion's Costs of Adaptation, the research unveils alarming projections: by 2030, these regions could suffer a loss of approximately $65 billion in export earnings and close to one million jobs due to climate-induced disruptions such as extreme heat and flooding.

Presenting the study's findings at an event in Dhaka, Jason Judd, Executive Director, GLI, emphasised the necessity for investors to engage with apparel companies and stakeholders. He stressed on the importance of addressing the current gap in risk management strategies, which often neglect adaptation measures crucial for mitigating climate-related risks.

The study delves into the supply chain footprint of six global apparel brands, revealing the profound impact of extreme weather conditions on workers and manufacturers. It highlights the urgent need for social protection mechanisms and climate adaptation finance to safeguard the livelihoods of apparel workers and mitigate the adverse effects of climate change.

Judd underscored the need for establishing social protection mechanisms and securing climate adaptation finance to shield apparel workers from the impacts of climate change. Furthermore, he called for a collective response, including global and national bargaining, to confront the challenges faced by the apparel sector.

Afshana Choudhury, Lead Operations Officer, MiB, emphasised on the significance of the study's policy implications in navigating the challenges posed by climate change in the fashion industry. 

In the ensuing panel discussion, panelists provided diverse perspectives on the implications of the study for the Bangladesh RMG industry. Discussions ranged from economic and operational implications, brand responsibility, and collaborative efforts to address climate challenges, to the significance of labor rights and worker welfare in the face of climate change.

Presided over by Professor Mohammad Mahboob Rahman, Treasurer, BRAC University, the event facilitated engaging discussions on the pressing need for collective action and industry-wide change to confront the looming threats of climate change in the apparel sector.

 

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Disclosing its UK operations’ financials, renowned Spanish fashion retailer, Mango recorded a robust performance for the year ending in 2023. 

During the year, Mango inaugurated many new stores across the country. The brand’s turnover surged by £16.4 million, marking a notable increase compared to the preceding year's £31.5 million. Total turnover for 2023 reached an impressive £120.8 million, with the gross margin experiencing a significant uptick to 47.1 per cent, from 41.83 per cent in the previous fiscal cycle.

The brand’s gross profit soared to £56.9 million, compared to £43.6 million recorded a year earlier, while the profit before tax surged to £5.4 million from less than £400,000 in 2022. Additionally, net profit witnessed a substantial ascent, leaping from a sub-£400k figure to £3.9 million.

The directors of brand expressed optimism regarding future growth prospects, notwithstanding prevailing economic uncertainties affecting demand levels. 

Mango's proactive stance towards expansion, particularly evident in its plans to unveil more stores across the UK in the forthcoming year, is expected to bolster its performance further. This expansion drive also translates into job creation, with nearly 150 new positions generated during the period, primarily fueled by the opening of new stores.

Among its notable expansions in 2023 include the inauguration of a women's wear outlet in Manchester Trafford Centre, unveiling of a store at centre:mk in Milton Keynes. The brand also made its presence felt at Westfield Stratford City, besides securing plans to set up a new store at the Silverburn Mall in Glasgow.

 

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Disclosing its UK operations’ financials, renowned Spanish fashion retailer, Mango recorded a robust performance for the year ending in 2023. 

During the year, Mango inaugurated many new stores across the country. The brand’s turnover surged by £16.4 million, marking a notable increase compared to the preceding year's £31.5 million. Total turnover for 2023 reached an impressive £120.8 million, with the gross margin experiencing a significant uptick to 47.1 per cent, from 41.83 per cent in the previous fiscal cycle.

The brand’s gross profit soared to £56.9 million, compared to £43.6 million recorded a year earlier, while the profit before tax surged to £5.4 million from less than £400,000 in 2022. Additionally, net profit witnessed a substantial ascent, leaping from a sub-£400k figure to £3.9 million.

The directors of brand expressed optimism regarding future growth prospects, notwithstanding prevailing economic uncertainties affecting demand levels. 

Mango's proactive stance towards expansion, particularly evident in its plans to unveil more stores across the UK in the forthcoming year, is expected to bolster its performance further. This expansion drive also translates into job creation, with nearly 150 new positions generated during the period, primarily fueled by the opening of new stores.

Among its notable expansions in 2023 include the inauguration of a women's wear outlet in Manchester Trafford Centre, unveiling of a store at centre:mk in Milton Keynes. The brand also made its presence felt at Westfield Stratford City, besides securing plans to set up a new store at the Silverburn Mall in Glasgow.

 

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The Confederation of Indian Textile Industry (CITI) hosted the CITI Sustainability Awards 2024 on February 26 at Bharat Mandapam at the ongoing Bharat Tex 2024, where Piyush Goyal, Minister of Textiles and Darshana Jardosh, Minister of State for Textiles and Railways presented the awards to the winners.

In his address, Goyal emphasised on the crucial role of sustainability in the textile industry and commended the efforts of organisations and individuals for their exemplary contributions. He stated, CITI’s leadership has consistently provided unwavering support to the textile ministry. The organisation will undoubtedly inspire the youth to chart a roadmap for the country's growth, he added. 

Showcasing various categories, the CITI Sustainability Awards 2024 celebrated excellence in distinct areas of sustainability. In the Best Practices category for textile mills with a focus on social responsibility and green practices, Indo Count Industries emerged as the winner, while Pratibha Syntex secured the first runner-up position.

Indo Count Industries also claimed victory in the Innovative Material Management category, with Jeyavishnu Clothing as the first runner-up.

Geethanjali Woolens won the title of Best Recycler, followed by Sulochana Cotton Spinning Mills as the first runner-up and Kakkar Spinning Mills as the second runner-up.

Brandix Apparel India d stood out in the Best HR Practices category, with Teejay India and Pratibha Syntex as the first and second runners-up, respectively.

The awards ceremony showcased the industry's commitment to sustainability, with winners demonstrating innovation, dedication, and positive impact. The recipients were lauded not only for their contributions to environmental conservation but also for their social responsibility initiatives and commitment to sustainable business practices. 

Rakesh Mehra, chairman of the Confederation of Indian Textile Industry (CITI), states, these awards are a testament to the industry's relentless pursuit of sustainability. It is heartening to witness the transformative efforts made by textile companies, setting a benchmark for others to follow.

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At a panel discussion organised by the German Consulate in Karachi, industry experts emphasised on the need for Pakistan's textile sector to transition to renewable energy sources. The panel discussion was held in collaboration with the Goethe Institut and the German development agency GIZ with insights gleaned from Heimtextil, a prominent global trade fair for textiles held in Frankfurt, were shared.

With Pakistan ranking as the fourth largest exhibitor at Heimtextil 2024, boasting over 270 companies showcasing innovations to a global audience, the discourse centered on renewable energy and innovative technologies' pivotal role in reshaping the textile landscape. Constituting about 60 percent of Pakistan’s exports and employing millions, the textile industry faces the challenge of transitioning towards sustainability.

Zaki Bashir, CEO, Gul Ahmed Textile, emphasised on the urgency of adopting renewable energy, citing Pakistan's vulnerability to climate change. This will offer dual benefits of reducing carbon footprint while cutting down energy expenses, he added. 

Echoeing the sentiment, Hassan Tabba, CEO, Yunus Textile Mills, underlined the necessity for Pakistan to leverage its renewable energy potential to remain competitive amidst countries like Bangladesh and India with more favorable energy tariffs.

Acknowledging Pakistan’s delay in embracing renewable energy, Fawad Anwar, CEO, Al Karam Textile, urged governmental support to facilitate industry investments in sustainable practices.

Yulia Bazhenova, Head-Projects, GIZ, emphasised on the crucial role of cost-cutting measures and energy efficiency in achieving sustainability, citing international standards necessitating environmental and social responsibility in Pakistan's textile sector. 

Zulfiqar Shah, Country Manager, Pakistan Accord, emphasised on the importance of collaboration between the industry, government and civil society to devise policies promoting renewable energy and sustainable practices.

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Positioned prominently at Pragati Maidan in Hall 1GF, stall H1G:029, LMW's exhibits became a focal point for industry experts seeking state-of-the-art solutions and spinning technology expertise at Bharat Tex 2024.

LMW unveiled its cutting-edge LDF3 2S machine at the expo, drawing considerable attention for its advanced capabilities and operational efficiency. 

Sankar M, Director-Operations, emphasised on the role of digitalisation, modernisation and automation in modern spinning mills.  He highlighted LMW’s Sustainable Smart Series machines, integrating AI, IoT, Big Data, and analytics to enhance mill operations, reduce reliance on manual labor, and drive sustainability initiatives.

With a rich legacy of innovation spanning decades, LMW showcased its leadership in propelling industry advancements and shaping the textile landscape. The company's commitment to innovation was evident in its solutions that aimed to optimise efficiency, boost productivity, and enhance overall textile production quality.

 

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The inaugural edition of Vietnam International Trade Fair for Apparel, Textiles, and Textile Technologies (VIATT) commenced in Ho Chi Minh City on February 28. 

Co-organised by Messe Frankfurt and the Vietnam Trade Promotion Agency (VIETRADE) under the Ministry of Industry and Trade, the expo spans 15,000 sq m. It boasts over 500 booths representing more than 400 domestic and international enterprises from 16 countries and territories, including the UK, Germany, the US, and Japan.

A standout feature of the event is Vietnam's national brand pavilion, showcasing the prowess of domestic textile and garment brands. Among the array of products exhibited are apparel, home textiles, technical textiles, non-woven fabrics, and cutting-edge textile processing and printing technologies.

Over the course of three days, the event will organise a 14 symposiums and fashion shows, delving into practical topics such as design trends, market access strategies, and advancements in textile and non-woven fabric technologies.

Detlef Braun, Executive Board Member, Messe Frankfurt, says, the exhibition serves as a platform for textile businesses to forge trade connections, integrate into the global textile production chain, and establish links across the value chain, from raw materials to finished products.

Phan Thi Thang, Deputy Minister of Industry and Trade highlightes the transformative potential of VIATT for local businesses. The exhibition plays a pivotal role in fostering partnerships, enhancing localisation efforts, meeting diverse customer needs, and elevating the value of Vietnamese textile products, she adds.

Global brands participating in the event benefit from technology transfer and management expertise, thus contributing to the development of supply chains in Vietnam. The collaborative nature of the event facilitates knowledge exchange and capacity building within the Vietnamese textile sector, Thang emphasises. 

 

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