Prime Minister Narendra Modi is set to inaugurate the Global Textile Expo-Bharat Tex 2024 on February 26, 2024 in New Delhi. According to Rachna Shah, the Secretary of the Ministry of Textiles, the four-day-long event will span over 22 lakh sq ft across Bharat Mandapam and Yashobhoomi.

Buyers from around 100 countries are expected to participate in the exhibition alongwith around 100 international speakers.

The expo presents a unique opportunity to showcase India's textile value chain strength on an international platform, says Shah. Organised by a consortium of 11 Textile Export Promotion Councils and supported by the Ministry of Textiles,

Bharat Tex is founded on the principles of trade and investment, with a significant emphasis on sustainability and resilient supply chains. The Ministry plans to sign 46 MOUs during the event, including collaborations on an international scale. Moreover, the Expo will mark the launch of the Textiles Grand Innovation Challenge, aimed at identifying forward-thinking circular solutions for the textile industry.

In the wake of China's staggering 67 per cent decline in raw silk production between 2017 and 2021, India appeared poised to ascend as the global leader in raw silk exports. However, this anticipated shift failed to materialize, as India's silk industry grappled with inertia and a lack of proactive measures to seize the initiative.

Global silk production dynamics: China and India dominate

China and India collectively dominate the global silk production landscape, accounting for approximately 95 per cent of the total output of 86,311 metric tonnes (MT), despite silk cultivation occurring in approximately 60 countries worldwide. China's production plummeted from 142,000 MT in 2017 to a mere 46,700 MT in 2021. Conversely, India's global share in 2021 stood at 36,543 MT.

Silk holds immense significance for India's economy, with the country producing all four commercially known varieties: mulberry, muga, eri, and tasar. Mulberry silk alone constitutes about 74 per cent of the total production. Moreover, the sericulture industry provides employment to approximately 9.2 million individuals in rural and semi-urban areas.

Despite India's potential, its silk industry has failed to capitalize on existing infrastructure. Alarming statistics presented in the 54th report of the Parliament of India's Standing Committee on Labour, Textiles, and Skill Development underscore the magnitude of the challenge. Across states like Chhattisgarh, Madhya Pradesh, Uttar Pradesh, Andhra Pradesh, and Karnataka, production targets have woefully lagged behind actual output, with various factors cited including adverse climatic conditions impacting tasar silk production.

Rising imports exacerbate concerns

Compounding the issue of sluggish production, India's reliance on silk imports is on the rise. Raw silk imports, which constitute 70 per cent of the total silk imports by value, have witnessed a significant uptick. This surge, attributed to heightened domestic demand post-COVID-19, underscores the widening gap between production and industry requirements.

India's silk exports have witnessed a decline in value from Rs 20,318.8 million in 2018–19 to Rs 17,733.8 million in 2022–23. Economic downturns and geopolitical conflicts have been cited as primary drivers of this decline. To mitigate this trend, exploring alternative markets beyond traditional ones like the UAE, USA, and EU becomes imperative.

The Central Silk Board (CSB), tasked with spearheading sericulture industry development, faces critical manpower shortages, with a significant portion of sanctioned positions remaining vacant. Operational inefficiencies stemming from retirements and recruitment challenges further compound the issue, jeopardizing the CSB's pivotal role in advancing the sector.

Branding deficiencies, exemplified by the voluntary nature of Silk Mark labels, pose challenges to ensuring product authenticity and market competitiveness. Additionally, stalled projects and low disbursal rates underscore systemic inefficiencies and underscore the need for streamlined coordination mechanisms and enhanced project execution frameworks.

Way forward: Urgent remedial actions required

To revitalize India's silk industry, urgent remedial actions are imperative. These include enhancing productivity through research and development, bolstering quality control measures, diversifying export markets, addressing manpower shortages, enforcing branding standards, and streamlining project execution processes. Only through concerted efforts and proactive interventions can India reclaim its position as a global silk powerhouse.

In a concerted effort to tackle audit and standard fatigue plaguing the apparel and textile sector, the International Apparel Federation (IAF) and the International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) have issued a clarion call to industry stakeholders. Emphasizing the urgency of the matter, they urge stakeholders to prioritize addressing audit fatigue in the wake of escalating demands for responsible purchasing practices.

Key directives outlined by the IAF and ITMF include advocating for the adoption of third-party standard frameworks over proprietary standards and endorsing the Social & Labor Convergence Program's Converged Assessment Framework (CAF) as a promising avenue for streamlining social auditing processes.

Furthermore, the manifesto underscores the need for standard holders to minimize unnecessary discrepancies in standards, enhancing efficiency across the supply chain. The Standard Convergence Initiative (SCI), spearheaded by IAF and ITMF, seeks to align industry initiatives and proprietary tools to alleviate audit burdens on suppliers.

Highlighting recent progress, the manifesto points to the Social & Labor Convergence Program's success in driving converged assessments, with over 7000 facilities worldwide opting for SLCP verified assessments in 2022 alone. Additionally, collaborations with leading schemes and standard holders aim to facilitate data sharing and alignment, further alleviating duplication in verification processes.

The SCI's impassioned plea urges all stakeholders to embrace standardized frameworks and collaborate towards industry-wide compatibility, paving the way for a more efficient and responsible supply chain ecosystem.

In a strategic move to bolster the landscape of retail trade in the UK, Spring & Autumn Fair, the nation's premier showcases for Home, Gift, and Fashion, has unveiled the establishment of a pioneering Advisory Board. Objective is to spearhead the ongoing refinement of these flagship events and foster a robust marketplace for British retailers.

Helmed by Stephen Spencer, Ambience Director at Stephen Spencer + Associates, the Advisory Board comprises a stellar lineup of 15 industry luminaries. Among them are notable figures such as John Halliday from the British Independent Retailers Association and Sarah Ward representing the Giftware Association. This diverse assembly brings to the table a wealth of expertise and perspectives essential for propelling the Spring & Autumn Fairs to new heights.

Jackson Szabo, Portfolio Director at Spring & Autumn Fair, expressed enthusiasm for this milestone, hailing it as a pivotal moment in the annals of these venerable exhibitions. With Spring Fair's illustrious 70 year history and Autumn Fair's 30 year legacy, the formation of the Advisory Board signifies a dedicated commitment to fostering innovation and sustainable growth within the retail sphere.

Integral to the Board's mission is its mandate to proactively discern emerging trends and capitalize on untapped opportunities within the retail landscape. By expanding the reach of the shows and optimizing the experiences of both exhibitors and visitors, the Board aims to fortify Spring & Autumn Fair's position as the cornerstone of the industry.

Chairman Stephen Spencer underscored the significance of collaboration and innovation in shaping the future trajectory of these seminal events. His extensive experience spanning three decades lends invaluable insights into the evolving dynamics of retail, underscoring the Advisory Board's proactive approach to future-proofing the shows.

Samantha Gibbs, Director of renowned retailer Nest, echoed the sentiment of unwavering support for Spring and Autumn Fair, emphasizing the pivotal role these exhibitions play in showcasing the industry's dynamism and innovation.

The involvement of longstanding exhibitors and key industry associations further underscores the Board's commitment to inclusivity and industry-wide collaboration. Their collective vision is geared towards not just sustaining, but propelling the Spring & Autumn Fairs into a dynamic future, ensuring their relevance in an ever-evolving business landscape.

In an era characterized by digital transformation and shifting consumer behaviors, the Advisory Board's formation signals a resolute commitment to preserving the vitality of face-to-face interactions and tangible product experiences offered by Spring & Autumn Fair. As these events continue to evolve, they remain steadfast in their mission to provide retailers with unparalleled opportunities to discover the latest trends and innovations across Home, Gift, and Fashion sectors.