The second quarter full-price sales of retailer Next declined by a 28 percent. According to the company, this is better than expected result as it allows it to forecast full-year profit of about £195 million ($252 million).
The company’s warehouse capacity has been restored faster than planned and store sales have been more robust than anticipated. Its online sales too bounced as warehouse capacity picked up and dispatch capacity returned to normal levels. The company’s sales improved by 9 percent from the same period a year ago while like-for-like sales in its stores declined by 72 percent for the quarter to July 25, and by 32 percent since June 15.
The company recorded improved sales in children’s wear, home, nightwear and sportswear and casual categories while sales in formal categories declined.
Albstadt-based Mayer and Cie has supplied the University of Applied Sciences in Mönchengladbach with its MPU 1.6 model for its new Textile Mission Project. A group of researchers at the University have launched the project to develop environmentally compatible fleece fabrics. Manufactured in the conventional way, these fluffy fabrics release micro plastic that ends up in waters, oceans and soils and finally in the stomach of animals and humans. These fibers are so small that wastewater treatment plants may not be able to filter them out entirely and they may find their way into waterways and seas, or as sewage sludge onto fields. From there, it is possible the plastic works its way up the food chain.
The MPU 1.6 will help researchers to knit fabrics before carry out washing and filtration tests besides optimizing and developing textile surfaces that release smaller quantities of microplastics.
The MPU 1.6 knits plush, velour, terry and fleece fabrics. At present, conventional polyester spools are fitted on the machine. Two sets of material have been tested so far with more to follow.
The research does not aim to discourage the use of polyester although the team is looking into alternative fiber materials. It seeks a mass-market solution that includes polyester on price grounds alone.
For the first time in its history of over six decades, Italian fashion retailer reported a first-half operating loss. The company’s revenues in the first half of this year ended 30 June dipped by 29 per cent to touch €403 million. Its tail sales, through distribution channels, declined by 31 per cent to €300.5 million (31 per cent down) while wholesale revenue declined by 23 per cent to €102.8 million.
Regionwise, the retailer’s sales in Europe, Middle East and Africa (EMEA) slumped by 23 per cent to touch €181.7 million, while the same in Asia and other parts of the globe fell by 27 per cent to also reach €181.7 million.
Even in Italy, Moncler’s sales declined by 39 per cent to€41.9 million. Its earnings before interests and taxes, EBIT, slumped to touch €35.5 million, compared with an operating profit of €102.6 million during the same period in 2019.
The Directorate General of Foreign Trade (DGFT) has revealed that the Indian government has permitted the export of 4 crore surgical masks and 20 lakh medical goggles every month.
The government had earlier banned exports of 2/3 Ply surgical masks, medical goggles and face shields in the wake of the COVID-19 crisis. It has now permitted monthly export of 20 lakh medical goggles and 50 Lakh units of medical coveralls for COVID-19. All other items that are part of PPE kits remain prohibited. Export of masks and goggles has been moved from banned category to restricted one, under which an exporter has to seek permission or a license from DGFT.
Luxury brands are turning to China to push growth amid the global downturn during the COVID-19 pandemic. They have been facing a tough market outlook since the start of the Coronavirus crisis, as a result of closure of many stores and manufacturing sites. Statistics compiled by Bain & Company shows, the luxury goods market has contracted around 25 per cent in the first quarter of 2020. Kering, the parent group of Gucci, Alexander McQueen and Yves Saint Laurent, was able open Chinese stores much earlier than other stores across the globe.
The company reported a 6.4 per cent growth in sales in its Chinese market during the first half of 2020. According to the company's financial report, its business in the Chinese mainland was boosted by strengthened consumer spending power and an uptick in economic activities. One of Kering’s most notable brands Gucci saw sales in the Asia-Pacific region contract 24.6 per cent, However, its business in China is seeing robust growth since mid-April.
One of the world's largest luxury brands the LVMH Group also reported a strong recovery in the second quarter in China, despite impacts from the COVID-19 pandemic on its global revenue in the first half of 2020. The luxury group, whose revenues dropped by 27 per cent in the first half of 2020 compared to the same period last year, saw a strong rebound in China market.
Coimbatore mask and coverall manufacturers hope to tap export orders as the government has permitted export of surgical masks. Raja Shanmugham, President, Tiruppur Exporters’ Association, said the government’s decision to allow masks exports will benefit manufacturers who had invested in machines to make coveralls and masks. Though the government had earlier permitted export of non-surgical masks and coveralls, manufacturers were unable to do so as there was no clarity and exporters were unable to get quotas.
According to A Sakthivel, Chairman, AEPC, garment manufacturers who have taken to manufacture of masks will benefit from the government’s decision to permit export of surgical masks.
KS Sundararaman, Chairman, Indian Technical Textile Association says, the government’s decision to permit export of two-ply and three-ply masks with quota restrictions will benefit export, However, the government should permit export of N 95 masks too gradually. There are international standards to be met for export of surgical masks but the manufacturers will be able to meet the standards, he said.
Attended by over 44 global denim companies, the first virtual edition of Denimsandjeans, exhibited A/W21 collections from exhibitors of over 10 countries. The show allotted a virtual booth to exhibitors where buyers and suppliers could interact individually. Other activities like denim talks, seminars, and trend presentations also happened with users attending talks or networking with exhibitors. Exhibitors decorated their booths well inside their own offices and these were visible to visiting customers.
The Trend Zone was divided into five different categories and collections were displayed in those categories. Denimsandjeans team created separate trend zones and they were running throughout the show .The trend zone categories included Super Sustainable, On Demand , Super Technology/Washing/Chemical, Super Comforts, and Super others.
The platform got a very good response from all the stakeholder of Denim Community and most of them found this a helpful tool to connect with their buyers
In a major setback to online fashion shows, none of the luxury brands that launched their collections at the Men’s Fashion Week in Milan or Paris last year, could elicit a similar response on Instagram. Tracking firm Tribe Dynamics observes, digital shows, videos and presentations generated less than one-third of online engagement. The all-digital London Fashion Week saw a 55 per cent drop in social media engagement than in January, says Launchmetrics, another tracker of online activity.
Online engagement by brands was relatively subdued compared to the same period the year prior. For instance, Hermes earned only 28 per cent of its media value during the weeks surrounding its latest menswear show compared to a year earlier, reveals Tribe Dyanamics. According to EMV, Valentino’s couture collection could reach roughly 57 per cent of its online engagement to EMV in July this year compared to its Autumn/Winter 2019 Couture collection. Critically acclaimed collections also failed to make an impression. Prada, who organized a digital fashion show on July 14, recorded a 60 per cent decline in earned media value from July 6 to July 19.
A reason for this decline was the low attendance of influencer marketing agencies to live shows, possibly due to budgetary constraints or an easy front row access to a digital collection. Influencers, who partnered brands during digital fashion week, met with relative success. For example, Caroline Daur, an Instagrammer with 2.4 million followers, who partnered Dior, earned a 2.28 per cent engagement rate, compared to her average 1 per cent engagement rate and Dior’s 0.2 percent average engagement rate, notes Obviously data.
Brands that held in-person, intimate runway shows with influencers too earned only a fraction of their earned media value compared to last year, though this was above average compared to other brands that opted for strictly digital events. Etro’s, live runway show earned the brand just over 40 percent of what the same show last year earned.
For the upcoming Spring/Summer 2021 ready-to-wear shows, brands need to reconsider their approach to online format. They need to focus on merging the two concepts to create impactful, share-worthy moments both on and offline, says Micheal Jais, Chief Executive Officer, Launchmetrics. He advises brands to repackage and redistribute their digital assets, to provide consumers the right content at the right moment.
A McKinsey study states, Bangladesh, Vietnam, Cambodia may soon lose their competitive edge in the global garment industry as manufacturing and marketing advances may make it easier for US and European garment importers to produce garments closer to home. The study says that by 2025, around 25 per cent of global sourcing executives would source 50 per cent of their imported ready-made garments near Europe and the US. Forty-two per cent of the respondents believe that over 30 per cent of these imported garments would come from sources near Europe and America by 2025.
However, this may also cause a significant loss of business and employment for many Asian countries.
Earlier, when designers created new designs, brands would wait for 30-60 days before launching the final product. This would help them to evolve their consumers’ demands. Now, this demand is influenced by celebrities and social media personalities. The fast-paced fashion trends launched by these celebrities benefit small-sized, and internet-based fashion brands who are able to quickly transform a concept to a finished final product.
Earlier, cost-consciousness amongst fashion leaders helped Asian garment manufacturers to win many new orders. However, since the last two decades labor costs in Asia too have been increasing. It is already higher in China than in Mexico. Hence, it makes sense for manufacturers to bring manufacturing closer to destination markets.
In future, automation, robotics, and artificial intelligence will dramatically reduce manufacturing costs and time lead times. New sewing technologies will help brands automate sewing for complicated clothing items like a collared shirt or a pair of fancy-dress pants. Automation of warehousing, fabric handling during sewing, shipping, and storing of readymade garments will also reduce their production costs.
Near-shoring will benefit countries like Turkey, Mexico, Morocco, and several South American nations and islands. However, it may harm labor intensive Asian garments powerhouses like China, Bangladesh, and Vietnam. The concept can be beneficial only if it reduces the cost of garments sourcing by 70 per cent. However, this scenario is around 10 to 15 years away, view experts.
Garment automation does not indicate an export collapse for Asian manufacturers like Bangladesh or Vietnam. These countries can start exporting their clothes within the Asian markets of Bangladesh and Vietnam. However, automation may create major challenges for the employment sector of countries like Bangladesh. Hence, these countries would have to find alternative modes of employment for the displaced laborers; else they may lead to huge geopolitical and economic consequences.
The Italian textile machinery association ACIMIT has reported a decline in orders in the first quarter of 2020 for the sector.
The index of orders intake for textile machines drawn up by ACIMIT for the period from January to March 2020 fell by 31 per cent compared to the same period of 2019. The index value stood at 72.2 basis points (2015 = 100).
Orders intake was negative both on foreign markets and in Italy. In the foreign markets orders declined by 26 per cent, while in the domestic market they declined by 57 per cent compared to the first quarter of 2019.”
ACIMIT represents an industrial sector that comprises roughly 300 manufacturers (employing around 12,000 people), which produce machinery for an overall worth of around 2.3 billion euros, of which 82% are exported. Creativity, sustainable technology, reliability and quality are the hallmarks that have made Italian textile machinery worldwide leaders.
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