Swedish fashion retailer H&M has released a new collection in collaboration with Belgian designer Glenn Martens, known for his work at Diesel and Y/Project.
The collection is a tribute to individuality and personal style, giving everyday pieces an avant-garde twist. It features a ‘do-it-yourself’ character and customization options that allow wearers to adjust silhouettes and create unique looks. This customizability is achieved through features like hooks and eyes on dresses and jeans, a signature touch from the head designer of the denim brand Diesel.
A distinctive trompe-l'œil (trick of the eye) effect runs throughout the collection. For example, a long-sleeved top features a printed image of a knit top, and a form-fitting dress displays a printed checked evening gown. The pieces used for these prints are sourced from Martens' design archive. This effect is also applied to accessories, such as a silk scarf printed with images of vintage necklaces. The designer also took H&M's bestselling velvet skirt and reimagined it with a printed kilt design.
Martens' interest in British humor and non-conformist street style is evident in many pieces, according to the press release. Alongside the checks and tartan, a print of a Scottish castle is featured on items like hoodies.
His famous play on silhouettes is also expressed in this collaboration. Cargo pants and over-the-knee boots, staples from the Parisian brand Y/Project are given extra volume. Material innovations and techniques, like foil linings in bomber jackets, blazers, and a trench coat, offer more ways to shape the garments. An oversized quilted jacket even includes an internal wire that allows the wearer to manipulate its dimensions.
In addition to must-have accessories like the boots and bags, the collection includes a belt without holes designed for draping, sunglasses that feature a double-frame design, and a checked scarf with a hood.
For men, the collection includes H&M basics such as five-packs of underwear and socks branded with ‘Glenn Martens.; The range also features steel-toed workwear boots with an adjustable leather upper that can be removed with press studs. Martens himself highlighted the boxer shorts at the press presentation, joking that his personalized waistband would make it easier to distinguish his underwear from his partner's.
The collaboration marks the first time the designer has created a collection under his own name, rather than as the creative director for Margiela, Diesel, or Y/Project.
Martens explained at the press conference that the Y/Project brand played a special role in the H&M collaboration. When the partnership began about two years ago, the focus was intended to be on him personally. However, after the closure of Y/Project, Martens became open to incorporating his design language from that brand into the H&M collection. He stated that this was a way to celebrate Y/Project and make his aesthetic more accessible to consumers, compared to the designer brand's higher price points, without losing its value.
The H&M x Glenn Martens collection will be available for purchase online and in H&M stores worldwide starting October 30, 2025.