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Scoop kicked off at Olympia West today, setting a vibrant tone for the Autumn/Winter '25 season. Visitors flocked to the dynamic showroom, eager to explore over 250 designer collections, including Fabienne Chapot, Isabelle Blanche, Sophie + Lucie, and Sitting Suits.
Independent retailers such as Young Ideas, Pamela Shiffer, Anne Furbank, and Cream joined Irish stockists like Nu Chic, Rococo, Macbees, and Sybil in browsing the curated selection of brands.
Exhibiting designers were thrilled with the turnout. Laura Robertshaw from Stand Studio, attending for the first time, said: “We’ve had an excellent first day, meeting many independent boutiques. We are currently stocked in Selfridges and looking to expand.”
Sinead Ormiston from Oldstrom, representing Isabelle Blanche, noted: “We’ve welcomed many new buyers, especially from Ireland. Our statement pieces have been a hit.”
Maria Alvarez from Sophie + Lucie added: “It’s been a busy day with great energy. We’ve had interest from buyers in the UK, Ireland, and Japan.”
Retailers also shared positive feedback. Bernie Dunleavey of The Front Room, Merseyside, said: “The atmosphere is fantastic. I’ve found exciting new designers and topped up orders.”
Pamela Shiffer called this season’s event the best yet. “The buzz, energy, and selection have been outstanding. I’ve placed three orders already.”
Rosie Wild of Moda Rosa, New Alresford, enjoyed the showcase: “There’s been a great atmosphere, and the live band was a wonderful touch.”
Karen Radley, Scoop’s Founder and Managing Director, reflected on the opening day: “The energy has been incredible. We’re thrilled to see retailers discovering new brands and placing orders. With two more days to go, we’re excited for what’s ahead.”
The show continues at Olympia West, Kensington, until Tuesday, 11 February 2025.
Foraying into the skiwear segment, Bestseller-owned Jack & Jones has launched its first Fall/Winter collection.
Offering an extensive range comprising 50 apparel items, the new Jack & Jones Ski collection features five pairs of trousers, six jackets, performance underwear, sweatshirts, fleeces and t-shirts, as well as accessories like hats, gloves, skiing goggles, etc.
Having a margin coefficient of 2.8, the collection will be retailed across Jack & Jones traditional stores, especially retail chains like Intersport or Sport 2000. However, it will also be sold to independent retailers in cities and resort. The collection was recently showcased at the Sport Achat trade show in Grenoble, in the French Alps.
Bestseller plans to sell this France-inspired skiwear collection in 15 markets, including Italy, Spain and Greece. It will also be available at Jack & Jones monobrand stores from the next winter season. In France, Jack & Jones is distributed via 1,200 independent retailers and around 50 monobrand stores. The brand plans to expand its network of monobrand stores to 80 by FY25-end.
A conglomerate with a historically strong export focus, Welspun World is strategically pivoting towards the domestic Indian market.
Announcing this shift, BK Goenka, Chairman, cited India's rapidly growing economy and the company's ambitious expansion plans. Previously, the company’s textile exports accounted for a significant portion of Welspun's revenue. Now, the company aims to capitalize on India's projected $10 trillion economy within the next five years.
Welspun has set a target to triple its revenue from Rs 35,000 crore to Rs 1 lakh crore in the next 3-5 years. This growth will be driven by expansion across all its segments, including textiles, infrastructure, and warehousing. The company has earmarked approximately Rs 1,000-1,200 crore investment for expansion in the textile sector. It aims to replicate its dominant US market share in home textiles within India, targeting a 25 per cent domestic market share.
Sustainability and technology are central to Welspun's strategy. Recognizing the growing importance of eco-friendly practices, the company plans to generate 80 per cent of its power from green sources within two years and increase the use of recycled fiber in its products. Welspun is also investing heavily in AI and machine learning to optimize operations, with its Global Capability Centre in Ahmedabad leading its digital transformation.
The US Department of Homeland Security (DHS) has added 37 Chinese companies to the Uyghur Forced Labor Prevention Act (UFLPA) Entity List, citing their alleged use of forced labor. A significant portion of these, around 26 companies, operate within the cotton sector.
Among those listed is Huafu Fashion Co, and 25 of its subsidiaries, identified by DHS as being involved in cotton production linked to the Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region (XUAR). Huafu's vertically integrated supply chain, from cotton cultivation to textile manufacturing, and the location of its subsidiaries (22 in XUAR, 3 in Zhejiang Province) pose substantial compliance risks for apparel companies sourcing from China. Businesses associated with these entities could face shipment detentions under UFLPA enforcement.
In December 2024, US Customs and Border Protection (CBP) processed over 2.8 million entry summaries, valued at more than $290 billion. During this period, CBP targeted 1,404 entries (over $18.7 million) due to suspected forced labor links. These targets include goods subject to both UFLPA and Withhold Release Orders (WROs).
UFLPA enforcement statistics for the apparel, footwear, and textiles sector reveal it received 1,996 shipments in December 2024. Of these, it released only 649 shipments while 1,996 shipments were detained.
The industry's complex global supply chains necessitate increased compliance. Importers face risks like delays, penalties, and reputational damage if they cannot prove their products are free of forced labor. As UFLPA enforcement intensifies, apparel and textile importers are advised to seek expert guidance on navigating these regulations.
According to DHS, this largest-ever addition to the UFLPA Entity List demonstrates the full force of the law, highlighting impactful updates and enhanced CBP enforcement capabilities.
Kyrgyzstan plans to establish a testing lab for textile and clothing products, according to Trend News Agency, citing the Kyrgyz Ministry of Economy and Commerce.
The Ministry of Economy and Commerce signed a three-party agreement regarding this with the Kyrgyz company KrygSert and Chinese firm Xinjiang Tianyu Engineering Testing.
Formalized through a Memorandum of Understanding (MoU), this partnership is designed to be a long-term collaboration that benefits all parties involved. The core objective is to launch an investment project focused on creating a testing laboratory that meets international standards for textile and apparel products.
The lab will be used for several functions including quality assurance, where all textile products will be tested to ensure they meet both international and national quality standards. The lab will also issue certificates verifying the safety of products for consumers and the environment.
Further, it will provide expert advice to the apparel industry on maintaining product quality and safety. Lastly, the lab will encourage the adoption of international certification standards among manufacturing companies.
This initiative is expected to create new opportunities for Kyrgyzstan's textile and apparel sectors. By ensuring quality and safety, the lab will help domestic products compete more effectively in the global market, ultimately boosting exports.
Brexit has prompted the UK to seek new trade partnerships globally, and a potential Free Trade Agreement (FTA) with India holds significant implications for the British apparel retail sector. While the primary focus of Brexit's impact has been on trade with the EU, this new dynamic with India could reshape sourcing, pricing, and sales for UK brands.
UK’s current market landscape
The UK apparel retail market is substantial. As per Statista in 2023, revenue was estimated at £64.5 billion, projected to reach nearly £79 billion by 2029. Pre-Brexit, a significant portion of the UK's apparel sourcing was from within the EU and other established manufacturing hubs. Brexit has disrupted these supply chains. However, increased import costs and logistical challenges post-Brexit have put upward pressure on apparel prices in the UK. While the market has grown overall, shifts in consumer behavior and inflationary pressures are influencing sales patterns.
Post-Brexit changes
Brexit has brought about significant changes in the UK apparel retail landscape, affecting trade, supply chains, and consumer behavior.
Trade barriers: The UK's departure from the EU has led to new trade barriers, including customs procedures, tariffs, and increased operational costs. These barriers have particularly impacted small and medium-sized enterprises (SMEs), which comprise a significant portion of the UK fashion industry.
Export challenges: UK exports to the EU, historically the largest export market, have fallen sharply due to increased logistical costs and customs delays. The value of clothing exports from the UK dropped dramatically in 2021 and continued to decline in 2023. SMEs have faced greater challenges due to Brexit, with many struggling to navigate the new trade barriers and increased costs. Some have had to reduce their exports to the EU or focus on the domestic market. Many smaller designers and independent brands have found the paperwork and costs associated with EU trade prohibitive.
Supply chain disruptions: Uncertainties surrounding border procedures, customs checks, and regulatory compliance have disrupted supply chains, leading to delays, shortages, and increased transportation costs for UK brands sourcing materials or products from EU suppliers.
Labor shortages: Brexit has led to an exodus of EU fashion professionals from the UK workforce, creating labor shortages and limiting collaborative opportunities that once fueled innovation.
Shifting consumer behavior: While the overall market has grown, Brexit has contributed to shifts in consumer behavior, with some consumers expressing concerns about the impact on prices and availability of goods.
Despite the challenges, Brexit has also presented some opportunities for the UK apparel retail industry. The focus more on domestic market now as UK brands can capitalize on the growing domestic market by offering unique and high-quality products. In fact, large retailers like Next have been able to absorb some of the increased costs associated with Brexit and have continued to perform well in the market. Exports are more diversified as businesses can explore new export opportunities in non-EU markets to reduce reliance on the EU. The industry can focus more on innovation and sustainability to attract environmentally conscious consumers. And the continued growth of e-commerce provides opportunities for UK brands to reach customers both domestically and internationally. In fact, online marketplaces like ASOS and Boohoo have emerged as important platforms for UK brands to reach EU customers, mitigating some of the challenges associated with direct exports. However, even online retailers face increased logistical complexities.
Potential impact of a UK-India FTA
A UK-India FTA could significantly alter the landscape for British apparel retailers in several ways. It could lead to sourcing revolution. India is a global textile and garment manufacturing powerhouse an FTA could drastically reduce or eliminate tariffs on apparel imports from India, offering UK brands access to a vast and potentially more cost-effective sourcing base. This could lead to lower input costs for UK retailers, potentially leading to more competitive pricing for consumers. India offers an alternative to traditional sourcing hubs, reducing reliance on specific regions and mitigating risks associated with geopolitical instability or supply chain disruptions elsewhere. Moreover, India possesses expertise in various textile crafts and manufacturing processes, potentially offering UK brands access to unique and high-quality products.
Lower sourcing costs from India would enable UK retailers to offer more competitive prices, potentially boosting sales and market share. This could also help mitigate the inflationary pressures currently facing the UK market. Access to competitively priced, high-quality apparel sourced from India could make UK brands more attractive to consumers. This could lead to increased sales both domestically and potentially in export markets. While beneficial for UK brands sourcing from India, an FTA could also increase competition within the UK market from Indian apparel brands directly exporting to the UK.
Challenges and considerations
The specific rules of origin within the FTA will be crucial. They will determine how much of the value addition needs to occur in India for goods to qualify for preferential tariff treatment. Moreover UK brands will need to ensure that their sourcing from India adheres to ethical labor practices and environmental standards. Establishing efficient and reliable supply chains between India and the UK will be essential for realizing the full benefits of the FTA. What’s most important is the final terms of the FTA will determine the extent of the benefits for both sides.
Thus a UK-India FTA has the potential to significantly reshape the British apparel retail scenairo. While challenges exist, the opportunities for sourcing diversification, cost reduction, and sales growth are substantial. UK apparel brands need to proactively assess the potential impact of such an agreement and develop strategies to leverage its benefits while mitigating potential risks. The evolving global trade landscape demands agility and adaptability, and a well-negotiated FTA with India could offer a significant competitive advantage to UK apparel retailers.
N D Mhatre, Director General (Tech) of ITAMMA, emphasized the importance of artificial intelligence in the digital era. Speaking at a recent industry event, he stated that AI should be viewed as an opportunity rather than a challenge, enabling businesses to track product characteristics from production to export. He also highlighted how data-driven marketing strategies are crucial for planning production, product development, and promotional budgets.
ITAMMA and Tata Power Solar forge strategic partnership
Recognizing the role of renewable energy in sustainable growth, ITAMMA and Tata Power Solar signed a Memorandum of Understanding (MoU) to advance solar adoption in India's textile sector. This initiative aligns with India’s ‘Make in India’ and ‘Atma Nirbhar Bharat’ missions. Additionally, ITAMMA signed a Letter of Intent with Gujarat’s i-Hub to support startups and innovation in the textile engineering sector.
Honoring industry stalwarts
Prakash Shah, Chairman of Prashant Group, was felicitated with the ‘Lifetime Achievement Award’ by Chief Guest Roop Rashi, Textile Commissioner, Ministry of Textiles, Government of India. Shah, who started his journey in 1975 with a small team, has built an industrial empire spanning over 110,000 square meters with more than 1,000 employees. His companies Prashant Group, Prasad Group, and PPI Pumps are industry leaders in textile machinery and plastic auxiliary equipment.
Shah’s contributions to the sector have earned him prestigious awards, including the Rajiv Gandhi National Unity Award, AMA-Atlas Dychem Outstanding Entrepreneur of the Year, and Bharat Ke Ratna-Gujarat Se. His textile machinery company, Prashant Gamatex, has also been recognized with the Corp Excel Award for excellence in textile machinery.
Beyond business, Shah is actively involved in philanthropy, supporting schools for underprivileged children and initiatives for tribal upliftment in Gujarat and Bihar. He also works on employment generation for women in rural India through khadi and gramodyog initiatives.
Call for sustainability and digital transformation
Chief Guest Roop Rashi urged the textile industry to prioritize sustainability over profit, emphasizing that environmental concerns are shaping consumer demand and international trade. She encouraged ITAMMA members to submit their challenges and suggestions to her office for solutions.
The industry is responding with innovations to reduce manufacturing waste, cut energy and water consumption, and use recycled fibers. She noted that sustainability and digitization are closely linked, making AI-driven solutions essential for future growth.
Kedar Pandya, Director of SME Programs at the Wadhwani Foundation, presented insights on Generative AI’s role in textile engineering SMEs. He revealed that 75 per cent of organizations using Generative AI report a return on investment, with 86 per cent seeing revenue growth. Successful businesses have transformed AI ideas into production within six months, with revenue gains realized in a year.
Market trends show signs of recovery
J M Balaji, Vice President of Lakshmi Ring Travellers, discussed the current marketing trends in textile machinery. He pointed to early signs of recovery after a challenging 2023, with improved consumer sentiment, increased demand for casual wear, and easing supply chain disruptions.
ITAMMA Vice-President Om Prakash Mantry concluded the event by reiterating the organization’s dedication to cluster development, technological advancements, and skilling initiatives. By partnering with leading agencies and industry experts, ITAMMA aims to equip its members to navigate the challenges of AI-driven transformation.
Manager of retail operations for major surf brands like Billabong, Roxy, Quiksilver, RVCA, Honolua, and Boardriders, Liberated Brands has filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection.
The company operated online and in-person stores through a licensing agreement with Authentic Brands Group, which owns the brands. The agreement ended in December, with Authentic Brands Group transitioning to a new wholesale licensing model. All 122 Liberated Brands stores are conducting closeout sales and will permanently close after liquidation. In January, the company laid off over 360 corporate employees and more than 1,000 retail workers.
According to Liberated Brands volatile global economy, changing consumer spending habits due to rising costs of living and inflation contributed to its bankruptcy. The company expressed hope that many of its employees would find new opportunities with other license holders.
The retail industry continues to face significant challenges. The early 2020s saw widespread store closures due to the COVID-19 pandemic, followed by a surge in shoppers and operational difficulties due to capacity restrictions. Smaller businesses struggled to survive without robust sales, while larger corporations were better positioned to weather the storm.
Rising interest rates have further exacerbated the situation, making borrowing more expensive and hindering retailers' ability to scale and expand. Many have been in survival mode, and numerous businesses have closed.
In 2024, approximately 500,000 businesses filed for bankruptcy, a 14 per cent increase from the previous year. According to Coresight Research, a further 15,000 store closures are expected in 2025, with a focus on Chapter 11 bankruptcy filings, liquidations, and major overhauls for surviving retailers.
With 9,056,990 bales of 170 kg each, Gujarat topped India's cotton production charts for the 2023-24 seasons, according to the Union Government.
Providing the state-wise and district-wide cotton production data (Annexture I&II), Ramnath Thakur, Minister of State for Agriculture and Farmers Welfare, states, Cotton Corporation of India (CCI) procured 3,284,000 bales of cotton under Minimum Support Price (MSP) operations, with 3,180,000 bales sold by January 27, 2025. Due to favorable domestic prices and a lack of price parity in exports, there were no cotton exports. Currently, India has no export restrictions on cotton, and the government does not import cotton. Local traders may import cotton independently, but there is no government mandate to do so or control prices.
The MSP for cotton provides a safety net for farmers, guaranteeing a minimum price for their produce. The Commission for Agricultural Costs and Prices (CACP) recommends the MSP annually, based on a formula of 1.5 times the cost of production (A2+FL), ensuring at least a 50 per cent return over production costs.
To implement the MSP scheme and ensure reasonable prices for cotton farmers, the CCI has established 507 procurement centers in 152 districts across 12 cotton-growing states, including 9 centers in Amravati District and 15 in Yavatmal District, Maharashtra.
Once-popular fast-fashion retailer, Forever 21 may be forced to file for Chapter 11 bankruptcy if it fails to secure a buyer for its profitable leases, according to reports in the Wall Street Journal.
Forever 21's operating company, Catalyst Brands licenses the brand in the US from Authentic Brands Group, which retains ownership of the intellectual property. The brand currently operates over 360 U.S. stores but has struggled since emerging from bankruptcy five years ago. According to a company spokesperson, Catalyst Brands is exploring strategic options for Forever 21 and working towards the best possible outcome.
Formed in January through the merger of Sparc Group (operator of Forever 21, Lucky Brand, Eddie Bauer, Aeropostale, and Brooks Brothers) and JCPenney, Catalyst Brands is at the center of these developments. Authentic Brands Group acquired the Forever 21 brand out of bankruptcy in 2020 and licensed it to Sparc Group.
Earlier this month, Jamie Salter, CEO, Authentic Brands Group discussed the brand's partnership with online giant Shein, noting that while online sales through Shein were ‘good but not great,’ in-store Shein pop-ups within Forever 21 stores had been ‘huge home runs.’ Currently preparing for an IPO, Shein owns a one-third stake in Sparc Group and Authentic Brands Group's joint venture.
Sparc Group also holds a minority share in Shein. The Group typically invests in struggling retailers, often keeping well-known brands within Simon Property Group's malls. The partnership between Shein and Sparc Group aims to leverage their respective strengths to drive innovation, explore new strategies, improve customer experience, and expand market presence.
Founded in 1984 by Korean immigrants, Forever 21 became a popular destination for affordable, trendy clothing. However, declining mall traffic and the shift to online shopping led to slumping sales. Forever 21's aggressive expansion, from 500 stores in 2010 to 800 in 2018 across over 40 countries, ultimately proved unsustainable. The company's strategy of targeting vacant department store spaces backfired as it faced financial difficulties.
