FW
For decades, the global fashion industry has revolved around the orbits of Paris, Milan, New York, and London. But a new constellation is rising in the East, and its gravitational pull is undeniable. This shift was the central theme of the recent BRICS+ Fashion Summit in Moscow, a gathering that, in its third year, is challenging the established norms of the apparel world.
In an exclusive interview with FashionatingWorld, Cem Altan, President of the International Apparel Federation (IAF), described his attendance as a personal mission to foster connectivity—and reflected on how geopolitical shifts are unintentionally fueling the rise of a ‘non-Western’ fashion powerhouse.
Altan as a "Peace Ambassador"
While the IAF's official engagement with Russian partners is temporarily on hold due to sanctions, Altan’s personal participation as a "peace ambassador" underscores his belief that fashion can build bridges where politics erect barriers. He sees fashion as a "global attraction" and a powerful force that can bring "people together, countries together," transcending conflicts that restrict official collaboration. For him, the summit is the perfect stage for this philosophy—a place where business and cultural exchange thrive, even in a politically charged environment.
The Power of Population: A market too big to ignore
The economic and demographic reality of the BRICS+ bloc makes it impossible to overlook. With its recent expansion to 11 member countries—including Iran, Saudi Arabia, the UAE, Egypt, and Ethiopia—the group now represents roughly 42–43% of the world’s population.
"You cannot really close your eyes to this community," Altan stated emphatically. He views BRICS+ not just as a cluster of nations but as a collective power with immense potential for collaboration. With over 60 countries participating in the summit, the platform, he explained, enables "joint economical projects, cultural projects" that allow members to "help each other to grow together." This shared growth, he argues, is shaping a new and influential pole in the global fashion economy.
From Neglect to the Catwalk: A platform for new voices
One of the summit’s most compelling features, according to Altan, is its role in democratizing fashion. He expressed particular pride in the presence of designers and professionals from Africa, a community he says has been "neglected for many, many years." BRICS+ is offering them overdue visibility to showcase the "richness" of their culture and products, and to "add to the global community."
This focus on emerging and overlooked regions is central to the summit’s philosophy—an intentional effort to expand fashion’s horizons beyond traditional centers and create a more inclusive and representative dialogue.
The Traveling Summit: Building a global network
Looking ahead, Altan envisions the BRICS+ Fashion Summit evolving into a traveling event. He suggested it should rotate among BRICS nations—whether India, China, or African members—so that "local people" can directly "benefit out of it."
Such a dynamic approach would deepen cultural and economic exchanges, enabling nations to share resources, strengths, and values. For Altan, it represents a peaceful movement toward building a new kind of global network, where collaboration and respect bind the industry together.
Nurturing the next generation
While acknowledging these are "start-up deals" that take time to mature, Altan sees the summit as a vital stepping stone. It offers young designers and new entrants the chance to learn, listen, and gain experience from international experts. He called the Russian government’s support "very clever," recognizing its importance in cultivating the next generation of creative and business leaders.
A new world order in fashion and apparel
The rise of the BRICS+ bloc in fashion is not just about market size; it is about cultural exchange and the democratization of an industry historically dominated by a few. As the global economy continues to rebalance, Altan’s perspective suggests the future of fashion will be more diverse, collaborative, and far less reliant on the West.
The BRICS+ Fashion Summit, he concluded, is not just a fashion show—it is a testament to the new centers of gravity reshaping the global apparel industry.
A B2B startup, Recove has successfully closed an Rs 5.3 crore pre-seed funding round to modernize and digitize plastics recycling supply chain.
Led by Momentum Capital, the fund round was attended by several prominent industry veterans and angel investors. Some of these participants included Ganesh Natarajan. Former CEO, Aptech & Zensar; Ashish Goel, Co-founder, Urban Ladder; Chaitanya Kejriwal, and Shruti Deorah.
Recove plans to use this new capital for three main purposes including expanding its tech-enabled B2B marketplace nationwide across India, setting up in-house pre-processing hubs and growing its network of recycling partners.
Founded in 2024 by Viral Chhajer, Nirja Bhatt, and Sharan Subaiah, Recove operates a technology-enabled marketplace that efficiently connects suppliers of plastic waste with recycling companies.
The company’s model integrates digital procurement with physical pre-processing infrastructure. This combination is designed to streamline the supply chain, ensuring that recyclers receive dependable, quality-assured raw materials while maximizing returns for waste generators.
Global leader in developing fiber and technology solutions for the apparel and personal care industries, The Lycra Company announced two strategic leadership moves to accelerate innovation and growth.
The Lycra Company has promoted Robert Johnston as its new Chief Operating Officer. A 35-year veteran of The Lycra Company and its predecessor organizations, Johnston will expand his leadership to include product development, in addition to his current oversight of global manufacturing operations and IT. In his new role, Johnston will manage R&D talent, lab resources, and pilot production to drive innovation across the product portfolio, supporting strategic growth priorities identified by Kelliher’s team.
Doug Kelliher has been appointed Executive Vice President- Product. He will lead the product management team in developing and executing strategy across fibers, fabrics, and garments. His team works to deliver differentiated solutions that add value and meet the needs of today’s consumer. With more than 30 years of product leadership experience at Timberland, Velcro Companies, Polartec and Milliken & Company, Kelliher brings deep expertise to his role.
The Lycra Company innovates and produces fiber and technology solutions for the apparel and personal care industries and owns leading consumer brands.. The company focuses on adding value to its customers’ products by developing unique innovations designed to meet the consumer’s need for comfort and lasting performance.
Reiterating that the sale of imported used clothing, or ‘thrifting,’ is strictly prohibited by law, the Indonesian Government is strongly urging the public to stop purchasing such products. The crackdown comes as thrifting remains rampant, driven by strong consumer demand across various digital platforms and marketplaces.
Reni Yanita, Director General, Small, Medium, and Miscellaneous Industries at the Ministry of Industry, states, they still exist because there is demand. That's why we continue to urge the public not to buy thrifted goods."
The surge in illegal imports is severely impacting domestic businesses. Data from Statistics Indonesia shows, imports of finished textiles, used clothing, and rags reached $78.19 million between January and July 2025, marking a 17.33 per cent Y-o-Y. The main sources for these goods include China, Vietnam, Bangladesh, Taiwan, and Singapore.
Highlighting the competitive disadvantage faced by local producers, garment entrepreneur Ellianah Setiady explains, the disruption from illegal importers, especially from China, is enormous. Production costs are high due to the regional minimum wage and taxes, while imported goods are much cheaper.
Setiady notes, illegal goods are increasingly being sold on digital platforms, including through live marketplace sales and personal shopping services from abroad. These practices clearly violate regulations and pose a significant risk to the domestic industry, she emphasizes. She urged the government to protect local businesses by re-establishing a task force dedicated to monitoring illegal imports.
On September 1, 2025, amidst the imperial grandeur and contemporary dynamism of Moscow, Indian couturiers Shantnu & Nikhil Mehra unveiled their first-ever women's couture collection, 'Armouré,' at Moscow Fashion Week. For a brand synonymous with redefining menswear for over two decades, this international debut was more than a runway show—it was a bold statement of evolution, cultural diplomacy, and the paradoxical nature of the modern woman.
The setting couldn’t have been more fitting. Moscow, a city where ancient domes meet neon lights, perfectly mirrored the collection's core tension: a fusion of strength and sensuality, romance and resistance. The show was part of a larger global fashion dialogue, as Moscow Fashion Week ran in tandem with the BRICS+ Fashion Summit, a gathering of fashion leaders and innovators from over 65 countries. This provided a powerful platform for Shantnu & Nikhil to position Indian couture not as a niche craft, but as a central, influential voice in the global conversation. As the designers shared, “Moscow represents a cultural crossroad, steeped in imperial legacy yet brimming with contemporary appetite for couture.”
'Armouré': A symphony of paradox
Inspired by the unapologetic glamour and daring spirit of 1930s icons, the 'Armouré' collection is a masterclass in duality. It celebrates a woman who is both intimate and armored, soft yet unyielding. The silhouettes beautifully showcased this contradiction: sharp, sculptural corsets were paired with whisper-thin, fluid drapery, while structured shoulders met cascading crystal embroideries.
The collection’s palette deepened the narrative, moving from dominion reds and midnight blacks to liquid silvers and opulent pearls. Metallic brocades shimmered like armor, and hand-applied embellishments served as both adornment and protection. Each detail, from a pearl-studded shoulder to a sequin-clad power-bodice dress, was symbolic—a reflection of the strength and allure inherent in the modern siren.
For the designers, this collection was about more than just aesthetics. As they explained, “Armouré was imagined around the paradox of the modern woman: sensual yet armoured, intimate yet resistant.
Every detail is symbolic—pearls represent intimacy, crystals embody allure, metallics signify strength, and embroideries carry the legacy of craft.” By weaving traditional Indian techniques into a global, avant-garde language, they proved that craft could be both celebrated and reimagined.
The significance of Moscow
This debut was a strategic move, positioning Shantnu & Nikhil at a pivotal cultural crossroad. As the designers noted, Moscow’s blend of imperial legacy and contemporary appetite for couture made it the ideal canvas.
The Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI) played a crucial role in shaping this cultural bridge, championing Indian fashion on a global stage. As the designers themselves stated, “The Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI) has played a pivotal role in shaping this cultural bridge between India and Russia, the presence of Indian fashion and craftsmanship to a global audience.” Russian Federation Ambassador Denis Alipov affirmed the significance of this collaboration, highlighting how fashion can act as a form of cultural diplomacy—fostering dialogue and celebrating national identity.
The visionaries behind the brand
Brothers Shantnu and Nikhil Mehra founded their label in 2000, quickly earning a reputation for disrupting traditional Indian ceremonial wear. While many designers focused on ornate, traditional aesthetics, Shantnu & Nikhil carved a distinct niche with their rebellious, anti-trend philosophy. They introduced sharp tailoring, structured drapes, and a romantic, often theatrical, sensibility to menswear, a category that was ripe for innovation. Their designs, frequently incorporating military-inspired details and a powerful, androgynous aesthetic, have become a favorite of celebrities and discerning clients who seek modern, unconventional occasion wear.
The brand's identity is built on a foundation of paradox—marrying defiance with romance, structure with fluidity, and heritage with modernity. This signature approach was at the heart of their leap into womenswear, creating a collection that was an extension of their established codes rather than a departure.
By showcasing at Moscow Fashion Week, Shantnu & Nikhil not only launched their womenswear line but also amplified a powerful message: Indian couture is not derivative. It is an original, powerful voice that belongs at the center of the global fashion dialogue, ready to captivate the world—one bold, unforgettable look at a time.
The fashion industry has always thrived on reinvention, but its latest transformation is not being dictated by catwalks in Paris or Milan. Instead, the shift is happening in the cloud, on smartphones, and across digital platforms that are reshaping the way consumers discover, engage with, and ultimately buy fashion.
A new report from ResearchAndMarkets.com forecasts that the global e-commerce market will grow from $9.07 billion in 2025 to $16.50 billion by 2030, at 12.7 per cent CAGR. For fashion and apparel, this isn’t just growth it’s a revolution. What was once a supporting act in the retail world has now become the main stage, and the actors are e-commerce platforms, super apps, and digital-first financial solutions.
Fashion at the forefront
Fashion has emerged as one of the largest growth engines of this digital rise. Online clothing and accessory sales no longer indicate just convenience; they now embody aspiration, accessibility, and global connectivity. With digital natives, Gen Z and Millennials making up the lion’s share of online shoppers, platforms have evolved far beyond static web pages.
Today’s e-commerce solutions are full of digital ecosystems that integrate everything from live-streamed fashion shows to virtual trial rooms powered by Augmented Reality (AR) and Virtual Reality (VR). A consumer in Mumbai can try on a luxury jacket using AR filters before adding it to their cart, while a shopper in São Paulo can browse curated collections from Paris boutiques within a super app.
There are several case studies that highlight this transformation vividly. Saddleback, a premium leather brand, adopted BigCommerce to increase its online presence, achieving scalability without sacrificing customer experience. Similarly, Colombian swimwear label Agua Bendita leveraged VTEX and Stripe to seamlessly expand its international footprint. In Australia, Bulk Nutrients boosted its performance and conversions through BigCommerce upgrades, proving that speed and design are crucial for fashion e-shoppers.
Asia Pacific leads the way
While North America and Europe remain major markets, it is Asia Pacific that is expected to register the fastest growth. Increasing smartphone penetration, a digitally empowered middle class, and the meteoric rise of super apps such as Grab, Gojek, and WeChat are propelling the region forward.
India, in particular, present a fascinating case study. With its young, mobile-first population and growing appetite for fashion experimentation, the country is becoming a testing ground for digital retail innovation. Platforms like Myntra and Ajio are already using AR-powered try-on tools and AI-driven personalization engines. Meanwhile, Reliance and Tata are experimenting with super app models that integrate grocery, fashion, travel, and fintech, echoing the seamless digital ecosystems seen in China.
The power of payments
Perhaps the most transformative enabler of fashion e-commerce’s growth is how consumers pay. The Buy Now, Pay Later (BNPL) model, led by pioneers like Klarna, Afterpay, and Affirm, has democratized fashion spending.
For an industry where a single luxury purchase can cost hundreds or thousands of dollars, BNPL reduces the psychological barrier of ‘sticker shock’. By breaking payments into installments, BNPL boosts affordability while boosting average order values (AOV) by up to 50 per cent. This model resonates deeply with younger generations, who value access and flexibility over outright ownership.
At the same time, super apps are rewriting the rules of convenience. A shopper in Jakarta, for example, might order food through Grab, hail a ride, and then discover a flash sale on sneakers all within the same app. Embedded wallets, loyalty programs, and gamification ensure that fashion brands aren’t just retailers, but part of a lifestyle ecosystem.
Players behind the digital curtain
The battle to dominate this fast-growing market is fierce. Players like Shopify, Adobe Commerce, Amazon Webstore, BigCommerce, and Commercetools etc, are racing to offer brands an edge in scalability, security, and consumer experience.
Shopify Plus for example, has enabled retailers like JB Hi-Fi to handle seasonal peaks effortlessly, a lesson vital for fashion brands navigating unpredictable demand cycles. Commercetools has helped Kmart migrate to a cloud-native platform, proving that modular and flexible solutions are the future.
What’s more logistics and payments providers from DHL to PayPal form the invisible backbone, ensuring that returns, deliveries, and transactions are as seamless as browsing. This behind the scenes ecosystem is as critical as the flashy digital storefronts. Without robust logistics, secure payments, and scalable cloud solutions, fashion’s digital renaissance would remain a dream.
Balancing risk and opportunity
The digital boom is not without its shadows. Cybersecurity threats loom large, as fashion platforms often hold sensitive consumer data for personalization. Breaches could erode the very trust on which e-commerce thrives. Also, customer acquisition costs are rising, forcing brands to innovate through community-led engagement, influencer collaborations, and loyalty-driven ecosystems rather than endless discounting.
Yet the opportunities are staggering. Artificial Intelligence is refining recommendation engines to feel almost like personal stylists. AR and VR are bridging the gap between physical retail and online browsing, offering experiences once unimaginable. And as omnichannel strategies mature, the line between offline boutiques and online stores continues to blur.
Fashion’s digital renaissance
The transformation underway is nothing less than a renaissance for fashion. The runway no longer ends at the end of a catwalk it extends into a consumer’s living room via a smartphone screen. Platforms are not just tools for selling but cultural stages, where fashion identity is crafted, shared, and monetized.
As the global e-commerce platform market marches toward $16.50 billion by 2030, fashion will remain its most visible and influential driver. The industry’s embrace of digital ecosystems from BNPL to AR try-ons signals not just an adaptation to consumer demand but a reimagining of style itself.
In this new era, fashion is no longer bound by borders or boutiques. It is fluid, digital, and endlessly accessible a renaissance not of fabric and thread, but of pixels, data, and imagination.
In H1, FY26, Mothercare reported a decline in retail sales to to £80.7 million, compared to £107.7 million during the corresponding 23 weeks of FY25.
For full-year FY25, sales of Mothercare’s wordwide financial parterns to £230.6 million from £280.8 million the previous year. The brand’s adjusted EBITDA also nearly halved to £3.5 million from £6.9 million.
Their online retail sales also contracted by 24 per cent to £21.8 million during the year while total global store count decreased by 19 per cent to 372.
Mothercare, which licenses the mother-and-baby/toddler brand, attributed this continuous decline in sales to geopolitical instability and the winding down of the previous sales arrangement in the UK with Boots as reasons for this reduction.
However, despite these challenges, Mothercare believes its ‘global brand is now significantly bigger than our current business is able to extract the full value from.’ While a joint venture in India helped stabilize the balance sheet, the firm is now focused on achieving a ‘step change’ in the business, affirms Clive Whiley, Chairman. The company is accelerating discussions with several parties to monetize the operational gearing in the business by restoring critical mass, especially in the UK market, he adds.
World's first AI-powered apparel manufacturing brand, Aitu officially launched in Shanghai under the theme ‘AI Reinvents Sewing Machine.’ The global livestreamed event provided the industry with a clear look at the technological breakthroughs of AI-enabled smart apparel manufacturing, offering new solutions for the leapfrog development of the global garment sector.
Riding the wave of artificial intelligence, Aitu has pioneered significant technological advancements. These innovations have already garnered international recognition, with Aitu winning the prestigious ‘2025 IFA Artificial Intelligence Product Innovation Gold Award’ at the International Consumer Electronics Show (IFA) in Berlin, Germany.
Steven, CEO, Aitu articulates the brand’s core philosophy saying, the essence of AI is to 'master A1 robot,human experience. Driven by the goal of turning tools into partners, Aitu unveiled the world's first AI sewing equipment category.
The main highlight of the launch was the debut of the A1 robot, an autonomously developed industry's first female sewing robot. This milestone not only signifies the maturity of Aitu's AI technology but also highlights its successful real-world integration. The company has already partnered with industry leaders, including the Thailand -based NICE and Wuhan factory, with this joint innovation being pivotal in transitioning AI sewing tech from R&D to practical, large-scale use. This collaboration paves the way for the industry's new AI-coordinated development stage.
Dr Hu, Chief Product Officer, Aitu, introduces the AI10 device as a revolutionary solution designed to capture and leverage the expertise of human operators and technicians. The AI10 boasts impressive efficiencies aimed at solving common manufacturing bottlenecks. It enhances machine adjustment efficiency by 80 per cent and improves operator efficiency by 8-15 per cent, he adds.
Additionally, the device shortens training cycles for new employees by 60 per cent and provides real-time work analysis and capacity-loss warnings, helping factories achieve execution rates of over 90 per cent.
A pioneer in intelligent sewing equipment, the China-based Hikari has launched the world’s first template-free sewing machine - H1 85250. Developed entirely by a Chinese enterprise, this machine marks a transformative leap for smart manufacturing in the apparel sector.
The H1 85250 fundamentally redefines industrial sewing by eliminating the need for bulky, physical templates. This core innovation delivers unparalleled cost savings and significant environmental benefits, capturing the attention of industry leaders across the U.S. and beyond.
The new platform operates on advanced AI-driven technologies that allow it to automatically identify different fabrics and adjust all process parameters in real time. This capability enables seamless ‘multifunctional operation with one-click switching,’ allowing manufacturers to adapt instantly to diverse production demands, minimize downtime, and boost overall efficiency.
At the heart of the H1 85250 is Hikari’s proprietary intelligent thread tension control technology, a development that breaks through century-old structural constraints in sewing machines. The result is flawless, oil-free stitches with no loose threads, easily meeting the stringent quality standards required for high-end apparel.
The template-free technology is poised to deliver immense global benefits. Projections estimate annual savings exceeding $10 million in template costs for the worldwide garment industry. For U.S.-based brands relying on outsourced production, these savings translate directly to a meaningful reduction in manufacturing expenses.
Equally compelling is the machine’s sustainability advantage. By eliminating the consumption of acrylic plates used for traditional templates, the H1 85250 drastically reduces industrial waste. This environmental benefit directly supports global ‘Dual Carbon’ goals and aligns seamlessly with US. corporate ESG (Environmental, Social, and Governance) priorities, proving that high-end quality and eco-conscious production can go hand-in-hand.
Released by the Joint Apparel Association Forum (JAAF), the export performance figures for August 2025 for Sri Lanka’s apparel sector show mixed results. While the country registered a slight decline in monthly exports s compared to the previous year, the industry maintained a healthy cumulative growth across the first eight months of 2025.
In August 2025, total apparel exports by Sri Lanka declined by 1.33 per cent Y-o-Y to $479.14 million, from August 2024. This decline was largely driven by softening demand in key markets. The nation’s dxports to the EU fell by 4.83 per cent, while shipments to the UK dropped by 2.6 per cent.Sri Lanka’s exports to the US, however, showed a modest gain of 0.92 per cent.
Despite the August contraction, the sector sustained positive momentum over the January–August 2025 period. Total year-to-date exports grew by 7.48 per cent to S$3.39 billion from $3.16 billion during the same period in 2024. This cumulative growth was supported by strong performance across all major regions as exports to the EU increased by 14.66 per cent, the US rose by 2.58 per cent, UK by 4.54 per cent and other markets by 9.45 per cent
Commenting on these results, JAAF stated, the month of August reflects the volatility in global markets, with pressure on exports to the EU and UK. However, the organization’s year-to-date performance demonstrates resilience, particularly with strong growth into the EU.”
The organization noted, the industry continues to face challenges but remains focused on enhancing competitiveness, diversification, and maintaining sustained engagement with key trading partners.
JAAF reaffirmed its commitment to collaborating closely with policymakers and stakeholders to ensure the Sri Lankan apparel industry maintains stability and is well-positioned to capture emerging opportunities within an uncertain global economic environment.
