FW
Applied DNA is an American company that offers molecular tagging and authentication services to apparel brands and retailers seeking to prove the authenticity of their cotton. It is now looking for partners to help eradicate forced labor in Uzbek cotton fields, while facilitating a global collaboration in identifying and highlighting Uzbek cottons that are harvested by modern machinery without forced labor.
While this is a laudable goal by Applied DNA, an alternative for brands and retailers who wish to avoid supply chain risks would be simply not to source from Uzbekistan until the country gives assurances that it has addressed forced and child labor issues. Companies such as Tesco, Puma, Inditex, Marks & Spencer and Adidas are among the more than 100 businesses which have pledged not to source cotton from Uzbekistan.
The United States recognizes Uzbek cotton as a product made with forced labor and has stopped goods made with Uzbek cotton at the border under a law prohibiting import of goods made with forced labor. Applied DNA’s advances in molecular tagging and cotton genotyping can provide technical guidance on cotton produced with forced labor from countries like Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan that can then be used by brands, retailers, supply chain intermediaries and law enforcement to ensure responsible sourcing.
From January to September 2016, Italian clothing exports to Russia grew five per cent. This is good news for Italian companies, in particular the fashion industry, which since 2010 had been struggling to get export orders from a country that was one of their main markets.
During the same period exports from other major EU countries to Russia fell, and especially from the biggest ones, Germany, Spain and France. Italy bucked the trend as it was the only country to grow and remains firmly in first position with 45.9 per cent of the total, followed by Germany, Spain and France.
Further, Italy’s market share increased more than four percentage points, from 40.4 per cent in the same period of 2015, mainly at the expense of Germany, whose market share fell from 26.3 per cent to 24.9 per cent. Russia’s domestic market is of particular interest for Italian companies. Luxury department stores in Russia are stocking Italian fashion brands in a big way.
The Russian clothing market had grown continuously from 2003 to 2008, and later came to a standstill in the wake of the global financial crisis. After a recovery from 2010 to 2013, another collapse followed, due to the international sanctions after Russia’s military intervention in Crimea in 2014 and the subsequent collapse of the ruble and of oil prices.
New York Denim Days will be held from September 30 to October 1, 2017. Aimed at style-setting, indigo-devoted Americans, this will connect denim insiders, designers and brands with denim consumers. The show gets its energy and inspiration from Amsterdam Denim Days.
The schedule will include interactive displays and workshops from brands, designers and denim mills alongside in-store events, a vintage denim market, parties and panels – all geared to give consumers access to their denim heroes and heritage brands and connect brands, designers and members of the denim supply chain to their end customers. Geographically, North Americans have been the largest consumers of denim jeans followed by Western Europe, Japan, and Korea.
The four major players in the US denim industry are VF Corp, Levis Strauss, PVH Corp and Joe’s Jeans. While overall sales declining in the United States, the same does not hold true among millennials, aged 18 to 34, who are spending more on denim — and likely setting the stage for a comeback. US brands are focusing their energy on this younger customer base with a broader mix of products, more of classic styles, fuller cuts, peripheral specialty sizes, plus color options.
Intexpo will be held in Ethiopia on March 6 and 7, 2017. Indian artisans will exhibit handmade textile products including yarn, dress material fabric, suiting, shirting, made-ups and accessories. The event provides an opportunity for importers, buyers and agents in Ethiopia to source their requirements of different Indian textile products. The event also presents an opportunity for building long term and mutually beneficial relationships between Indian exporters and Ethiopian importers.
The first ever traces of Indian handcrafted textiles appeared in the form of cotton saris draped around statuettes, dating back to 3000 BC. Handmade textile products represent around 10 per cent of the Indian textile and garment industry products. These provide a great export opportunity to India since the infrastructure and expertise for manufacturing handmade and blended textiles are presently not available in Ethiopia.
The show is being organized by the Synthetic and Rayon Textiles Export Promotion Council, which plays a crucial role in helping overseas buyers to firm up enduring and profitable business relationships with Indian exporters of synthetic and rayon textile products.
The council will continue to support and guide buyers and importers in Ethiopia to strengthen trade relations between stakeholders in both countries.
India’s cotton exports are likely to decline 20 per cent this year. One reason is China is expected to start sales from its cotton reserves from March and would continue offering 30,000 tons a day until August. China’s total stocks, including those in the private sector, are forecast to reach nine million tons at the end of 2016-17, accounting for 53 per cent of world stocks. This will definitely hit cotton demand from India as Chinese buyers have been active over the last few years.
Exports are not expected to cross 5.5 million bales this year against last year’s 6.9 million bales. Despite a cotton acreage 9.6 per cent less than the previous year, better yields in major cotton growing states have resulted in higher output estimates. India’s cotton production in 2016-17 is estimated to reach 32.51 million bales, up from 30.01 million bales a year ago.
The global market balance is going to remain tight, which could keep prices elevated. If cotton prices decline, imports will go up. But China’s auction may cause prices in the global market to decline. So the result is that Indian exporters will not be able to reap the benefit of high international prices.
Yiwu Tex will take place in China from June 13 to 15, 2017. This is a knitting and hosiery show. The focus will be on healthcare textiles, innovative yarn and its applications.
The show will feature zones on functional knitting machinery, smart apparel machinery and digital printing machinery. Manufacturers can learn how to expedite the smart production transformation, improve products’ functionality and marketing their products in the domestic and overseas markets. Yiwu is a sourcing platform for many enterprises in particular those in the knitting industry.
Exhibits include a wide collection of textile machinery such as knitting machines, braiding machines, dyeing machinery and sewing machines. The knitting and hosiery industry of Yiwu has become world-renowned. For this reason, the Yiwu Tex knitting and hosiery machinery zone will showcase smart knitting systems and innovative knitting technology.
The Yiwu hosiery industry accounts for 62.5 per cent of the Chinese market and its products are exported to over 100 countries including Japan, US, Canada, Germany, Italy, Russia, etc.
The Yiwu knitwear market has evolved from a low-end wholesale market which mainly sold underwear to a scalable business with continuous upgrade of knitting technology. Integration of production and sale took place and products tend to incorporate elements like fashion design, healthcare, fitness and other functions.
Belarus and Pakistan are eager to develop ties between their textile industries. The countries will organize a textile forum to consider avenues of bilateral cooperation, including joint ventures and investment projects. Pakistan and Belarus have agreed to initiate joint ventures in the textile, pharmaceutical and lighting solution industries.
Pakistan is a leading manufacturer of cotton. The country has a well-developed textile industry. The textile sector of Pakistan contributes 57 per cent to the country’s exports. Belarus was one of the top textile producers among the Soviet republics in terms of volume. Today, 300 Belarusian enterprises operate in the sewing, knitting, wool and cotton industries and textiles account for around four per cent of the total volume of Belarusian industrial production. Export destinations are mainly Russia and CIS countries, but also EU countries.
Pakistan’s exports to Belarus are mainly rice, light pure woven cotton, styrene polymers, edible preparations, leather apparel and citrus. Imports are mainly tractors, artificial filament yarn and rubber tires. Pakistan intends to export more value-added items to Belarus.
Both sides expressed their resolve to undertake concrete measures to enhance the volume of trade as the current trade figures are not reflective of the true potential.
"Gap Inc’s fourth quarter profits increased 3 per cent to $220 million, or 55 cents a share, and sales rose 1 per cent to $4.43 billion. Its fourth quarter same-store sales were up 2 per cent, compared with a decline of 7 per cent in the same period last year, and same-store sales for the year fell 2 per cent, compared with a decline of 4 per cent last year. The company’s flagship Gap brand showed signs of life for the first time in many quarters: Q4 same-store sales fell 3 per cent globally compared to last year’s 6 per cent decline. Old Navy same-store sales rose 1 per cent compared to flat numbers last year, and fell 7 per cent at Banana Republic, compared to a 10 per cent decline last year."
Gap Inc’s fourth quarter profits increased 3 per cent to $220 million, or 55 cents a share, and sales rose 1 per cent to $4.43 billion. Its fourth quarter same-store sales were up 2 per cent, compared with a decline of 7 per cent in the same period last year, and same-store sales for the year fell 2 per cent, compared with a decline of 4 per cent last year. The company’s flagship Gap brand showed signs of life for the first time in many quarters: Q4 same-store sales fell 3 per cent globally compared to last year’s 6 per cent decline. Old Navy same-store sales rose 1 per cent compared to flat numbers last year, and fell 7 per cent at Banana Republic, compared to a 10 per cent decline last year. The recent bankruptcies and store closures of rival apparel retailers like The Limited, American Apparel and Wet Seal present Gap with market share opportunity.
Growth drivers
This is an era in apparel retail when modest increases, flat sales or even ebbing declines might be seen as a comeback story. Talking about the reinvention strategy, CEO Art Peck said recently the company has worked thoroughly on getting a handle on fit style and quality; speeding up clothing manufacture to more efficiently respond to demand; transforming inventory systems to de-silo merchandise, inventory management and sourcing systems; and leveraging its warehouse network to accommodate both e-commerce and brick-and-mortar fulfillment needs. Having said that he feels that there is more work to do.
About Gap's other brands’ performance, Peck explained issues at Old Navy (which hampered the brand’s consistent strength for a time last year) were swiftly corrected and Athleta athleisure brand (for which the company doesn’t provide sales figures) is strong. But Banana Republic continues to be a drag. While Gap is right to dial back on the Banana brand across the UK and European markets, it must decide as to how it will revive its fortunes in the US. While the company is on the road to recovery, analysts feel that it will be interesting to see as to how the company sustains and speed up its growth momentum.
Cairo Fashion and Tex has opened its doors from March 2 to 5. This is a fashion and textile exhibition, specializing in yarns, textiles, garments and trimming supplies and accessories. It provides exhibitors and visitors the possibility of making a sound business investment. The exhibiting companies will showcase women’s fashion, men’s fashion, lingerie, nightwear, sportswear, knitted garments and tricot and special garments.
Fifteen Indian textile companies are also participating. They are showcasing yarns and fabrics, which include suitings, shirtings, dress materials and embroidered fabrics, high fashion fabrics, furnishings, home textiles, scarves, stoles, shawls and yarns of manmade fibers and their blends. India is the world’s second largest producer of synthetic fibers and yarn, cotton, cellulosic fiber and silk. The country has the ability to supply both high and low end textile items either in small quantities or large volumes.
The textile sector accounts for 27 per cent of Egypt’s industrial production, making it the second largest industry after processed food. The industry contributes eleven per cent to manufacturing GDP and three per cent to total GDP. Egypt’s main export partners have traditionally been the United States and the European Union but the trade includes also includes other Arab countries, China and Brazil.
In 2016, Picanol’s turnover increased 20.8 per cent compared to 2015. Gross profit percentage increased from 22 per cent to 25 per cent. The operating result increased 44.75 per cent.
In 2016, the weaving machines division experienced a record breaking year. The growing demand for quality and technology created strong sales and an increased share in many markets. This resulted in Picanol’s putting a record number of weaving machines on the market in 2016, thereby especially focusing on dealing with production peaks. The industries division also had a strong year and increased its contribution to the group result thanks to a higher turnover in various sectors.
The sale of parts and accessories followed the positive trend of the weaving machines. In 2016, the OptiMax rapier weaving machine was taken out of production and replaced by the OptiMax-i, which was launched in 2015 and is the fastest rapier weaving machine in the world that is series-produced.
In 2016, Picanol further invested in the renovation and modernization of its production facilities, including the upgrade of the automated warehouse and the logistics systems. In combination with further productivity and quality improvements, Picanol aims to enhance its competitiveness. Picanol expects a slight increase in turnover for the first half of 2017 compared to the first half of 2016.
