GFA’s 2024 Monitor urges fashion industry to act on sustainability goals
At the Global Fashion Summit: Shanghai Gala 2024, the Global Fashion Agenda (GFA) unveiled The GFA Monitor 2024, aimed at helping fashion industry leaders pursue a net positive impact. The guide, published ahead of COP29, highlights advancements and challenges in sustainability and responsible business practices.
Produced with input from key partners, including the Apparel Impact Institute and Ellen MacArthur Foundation, the 2024 report consolidates data to address critical environmental and social goals. Key achievements include sustainable cotton production, now covering 30 per cent of the market, and a 14 per cent increase in companies setting fair wage targets through collective bargaining for 2035. The report also notes a 59 per cent rise in water stewardship targets for 2040, though it highlights that action toward these goals remains limited.
Challenges persist, with companies struggling to prioritize sustainability amid economic pressures. Wage disparity continues, with only a 1 per cent reduction in the gap between minimum and living wages in 2023. Furthermore, while target setting for resource stewardship indicators has grown, active efforts to achieve these remain insufficient.
Insights from the Fashion Industry Target Consultation, a joint project by GFA and UNEP, underscore the industry’s sentiment on the steps needed for a net positive transition. With contributions from 100 stakeholders across six continents, the consultation identifies 27 critical actions for industry transformation.
GFA CEO Federica Marchionni urged the fashion industry to adopt greater ambition and take swift action in response to escalating climate threats. She emphasized the need for resilience through sustainable practices and encouraged leaders to use the report’s guidance to foster a fair and transparent fashion ecosystem.
GFA’s Impact Partners echoed these calls to action. Janet Mensink from the Social &Labor Convergence Program noted rising social non-compliances, emphasizing the need for secure work environments. Tiffany Rogers of the Fair Labor Association highlighted wage increases, urging focus on living wage progress, while Lewis Perkins from the Apparel Impact Institute advocated rapid decarbonization initiatives to meet 2030 targets.
Chanel showcases Cruise 2024-25 Collection in Hong Kong
Blending light tweed suits, stylish diving hoods and breezy white dresses in an’ underwater reverie, Chanel showcased its Cruise 2024-2025 collection in Hong Kong recently. The event attractedseveral notable guests, including brand ambassadors Penélope Cruz and K-pop star G-Dragon, as well as Hong Kong actors Chow Yun-Fat and Angela Yuen.
Designed by Virginie Viard, Artistic Director, Chanel, the showcase featured a multitude of looks that models displayed across two levels. The vivid, sequined outfits stood out against the institute’s distinctive white, diagonal beams.
The presentation was complemented by a panel discussion, an exhibition of HKDI student works, and a campaign teaser film featuring Yuen and French actor Benjamin Voisin. In the film, Yuen sported pieces from the collection set against the dynamic backdrop of Hong Kong.
Originating in the 1960s, the cruise collections are ready-to-wear ranges unveiled between the main Fall-Winter and Spring-Summer seasons, traditionally catering to affluent customers seeking warm-weather clothing during winter months.
This event marked Chanel’s first fashion show in Hong Kong since 2006, with the Cruise 2024-2025 collection having first debuted in Marseille, France, in May. Chanel’s decision to restage the show in Hong Kong reflects its strategic focus on appealing to its Asian clientele amid a challenging luxury market.
The event follows Louis Vuitton’s debut runway show in Hong Kong less than a year earlier, signaling the city’s efforts to reestablish itself as a premier global fashion destination after years of political turmoil and stringent Covid-19 travel restrictions.
Chanel plans to expand in China by increasing its number of stores. As of May, the brand operated only 18 fashion boutiques in mainland China, significantly fewer than some of its competitors, which run 40 to 50 stores, according to Reuters.
Redress Alumni showcase sustainable fashion at Shanghai Fashion Week
On October 16, 2024, five Chinese alumni designers from the Redress Design Award presented their circular, sustainable collections to a captivated audience of 550 at Shanghai Fashion Week. This marked Redress' return to the event after 12 years, spotlighting innovative designs that align with China’s growing sustainability movement.
As the world's largest apparel exporter, China is rapidly embracing sustainability, driven by bold climate targets. The Redress alumni, including headliner Ruyin Tian, exemplify this shift. Tian’s collection utilizes recycled fabrics, end-of-roll textiles, and waste materials, emphasizing durability, versatility, and zero-waste cutting techniques.
Also featured were collections by Xue Wang, Tiger Chung, Yu Zhang, Zheyi Ruan, and Violet Ma, all of whom showcased waste-reducing designs. This runway show highlighted the critical need for education and innovation in the fight against climate change and textile waste in Asia’s fast-growing fashion industry.
In parallel, Redress is exhibiting at Bicester Village Shanghai, showcasing designs from the 2024 finalists and select alumni. Running until November 30, this exhibition, in partnership with The Bicester Collection, is the first of its kind in China, offering a platform for emerging sustainable designers.
The opening event, attended by Christina Dean, Founder of Redress, and fashion director Stewart Chen, underscored the vital role of collaboration in shaping the future of fashion. With China’s fashion market set to generate US$360.4 billion by 2029, supporting emerging designers is more crucial than ever.
Puma’s Q3. FY24 sales rise by 5% Y-o-Y to €2.31 billion: LSEG
The Q3, FY24 currency-adjusted sales of German sportswear giant Puma grew by 5 per centY-o-Yto €2.31 billion ($2.48 billion). asper data compiled by LSEG, highlighting the challenges posed by unfavorable foreign exchange rates that weighed on the company’s financial performance.
Whilethe brand’s sales remained stable compared to the same period last year, the strong headwinds from currency fluctuations continued to impact its bottom line. These adverse effects on revenue were part of a broader issue affecting global companies facing volatile currency markets.
Puma's growth in currency-adjusted terms reflects its ability to maintain demand for its products, driven by strategic initiatives and sustained consumer interest. The sportswear maker has been focusing on expanding its product lines, increasing market share, and leveraging partnerships with prominent athletes and teams to boost its brand presence worldwide. Yet, these efforts have had to contend with a challenging economic landscape, including currency impacts, inflationary pressures, and shifting consumer spending patterns.
Despite missing sales targets for the quarter, Puma has maintained its position as a significant competitor in the sportswear industry, continuing to compete with larger players like Nike and adidas. The company remains optimistic about navigating these challenges as it focuses on strategic growth and operational efficiency in upcoming quarters.
Lenzing Group sees strong performance amid challenging market in 2024
The Lenzing Group, a leading supplier of cellulosic fibers, reported a 5 per cent rise in revenue to €2 billion for the first three quarters of 2024, despite sluggish market recovery and low fiber prices. Fiber sales volumes increased, though high raw material and logistics costs continued to strain the industry. Revenue from fiber products alone rose by 10.9 per cent.
Supported by a focused performance program, Lenzing achieved a 20.3 per cent rise in EBITDA to €263.7 million, with the EBITDA margin improving to 13.5 per cent. Operating earnings (EBIT) reached €38.3 million, rebounding from a loss of €10.5 million last year, while earnings per share improved to minus €3.50.
The group also strengthened its liquidity through a successful $650 million green bond issued by Brazilian joint venture LD Celulose, and aims for €100 million in annual cost savings through its performance program. Rohit Aggarwal, newly appointed CEO, emphasized the importance of cost control and expanded global sales efforts.
Despite ongoing global economic risks, Lenzing reaffirmed its EBITDA growth guidance for 2024, citing increasing demand for sustainable fibers across textiles, hygiene, and medical sectors. The group is positioned for long-term growth in these markets through ongoing efficiency measures and specialty fiber expansion.
eVent Fabrics hires Cathy Shao as Innovation Director to lead PFAS-free advances
eVent Fabrics has appointed Cathy Shao as Innovation Director, tasking her with expanding the company’s PFAS-free fabric offerings. With a strong background in polymer material science and over a decade of experience at DuPont China, Shao will focus on advancing eVent’s BIO and alpineST collections and developing next-generation waterproof and breathable fabrics.
As global demand for sustainable laminates rises, Shao will play a critical role in designing high-performance, fluorine-free fabrics suited for all-weather outdoor apparel, footwear, and accessories, targeting activities like hiking, skiing, biking, and sailing. This strategic move supports eVent’s mission to meet global standards and customer expectations for eco-friendly, high-performance textiles.
Chad Kelly, President of eVent Fabrics, emphasized that Cathy Shao’s expertise aligns well with the company’s mission to advance fabric technology. Shao, who holds a Master’s degree in Polymer Material Science from Donghua University, brings extensive knowledge from her experience with various polymers, including bio-based materials and Sorona. Starting her role at eVent’s Shanghai office on November 4, 2024, Shao is set to lead innovations and broaden sustainable offerings in performance textiles.
CITI, Fair Wear Foundation drive EU compliance for Indian Textile Exporters
In a major step towards sustainable trade, the Confederation of Indian Textile Industry (CITI) and the Fair Wear Foundation have launched a program to assist Indian textile exporters in meeting the European Union’s Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive (CSDDD). Enacted in May 2024, this directive mandates rigorous human rights and environmental due diligence across global supply chains.
CITI recently held its third workshop, ‘Advancing Sustainable and Responsible Business Practices,’ in Mumbai, where industry leaders discussed compliance strategies for the CSDDD, chemical regulations, and human rights due diligence. CITI Secretary General Chandrima Chatterjee highlighted the significance of the CSDDD for Indian exporters, emphasizing the need to integrate with global sustainability frameworks to maintain competitiveness.
Siddhartha Rajagopal, Executive Director of TEXPROCIL, noted the shift from voluntary sustainability to mandatory compliance, underscoring the benefits of aligning with global standards. Mousumi Sarangi, India Country Manager for Fair Wear Foundation, urged companies to view compliance as a proactive strategy to improve working conditions, blending profitability with accountability.
Insights were also shared by Annabel Meurs, Associate Director at Fair Wear Foundation, on navigating CSDDD complexities, and Drashti Patel, Regulatory Manager at Global Product Compliance, who addressed the importance of chemical compliance and transparency.
The event, supported by TEXPROCIL and AEPC, concluded with an interactive Q&A session, reinforcing CITI’s role in steering India’s textile industry towards responsible, sustainable growth.
Karl Mayer's E44 tricot fabric shines at ITMA ASIA + CITME 2024
At ITMA ASIA + CITME 2024, Karl Mayer showcased an innovative tricot fabric in E44 for sun-protective outdoor wear, captivating attendees with its performance and versatility. The highlight was a lightweight, soft, and breathable jacket designed with UV protection over twice as effective as traditional circular knit fabrics of similar weight. This fabric’s silky feel and cool touch make it ideal for hot-weather outdoor activities.
Projected to fuel the growing sun-protective clothing market, estimated to expand by 7.9 per cent annually, reaching nearly $14 billion by 2030, the E44 fabric offers strong business potential. Produced on Karl Mayer’s high-efficiency HKS 2-S machine, the fabric yields up to 200 kg per day, showcasing both innovation and efficiency.
Textile Application Engineer Tang Qi, who designed the loose-fit jacket displayed at the show, praised the fabric’s protective and comfort-driven qualities. As an outdoor enthusiast, she tailored the jacket for mobility and breathability, ensuring it remains comfortable and non-restrictive during strenuous activities.
Karl Mayer’s E44 tricot fabric marks a significant advancement in sun-protection apparel, combining comfort with cutting-edge fabric engineering to meet rising demand in outdoor activewear.
CCI-Hubballi opens cotton procurement centers in Yadgir
As announced by B Susheela, Deputy Commissioner and Chairperson, District Task Force Committee, Karnataka Government, the Hubballi unit of Cotton Corporation of India (CCI) has opened cotton procurement centers in the Yadgir district under the Union Government’s Minimum Support Price (MSP) Scheme for 2024-25 to allow farmers to sell cotton at these centers.
These centers will procure only 12 quintals of cotton per acre under the scheme after inspecting its quality. They will not purchase cotton with more than 12 per cent of moisture content in it. Medium quality cotton will be purchased at Rs 7,121 per quintal while best quality cotton will get Rs 7,521 per quintal.
The procurement centers opened in the district include Soudagar Cotton Mill, Managanal village; Balaji Cotton Industries, Saidapur; R.S. Fibres, Maddarki; Manjit Cotton Mill, Gogi (K) and Aralahalli Cross; Basavajyothi Cotton and Ginning Factory, Aralahalli Cross; Basavaraj Sajjanshetty Cotton and Agro Industries, Hallisagar; Manikanth Cotton and Ginning Industries, Hulakal, and Jailaxmi Cotton Mills, etc.
Paradise Textiles launches new jacket made from biodegradable polyester resin
The material science division of the Taiwan-headquartered Alpine Group, Paradise Textileshas launched a new lightweight jacket made from bio-based and biodegradable polyester resin developed by the New York-based Kintra Fibers. Serving as a proof-of-concept, the garment showcases the commercial potential of Kintra’s sustainable alternative to conventional fossil-based polyester.
Collaborating with Fashion for Good and other leading brands, including Bestseller, Inditex, and Reformation, over a year-long project, Kintra previously developed prototype materials using its innovative resin. The resulting yarn offers strength and durability similar to traditional polyester but with enhanced softness and inherent stretch. It also offers 10-15 per cent stretch recovery with the material beingsuccessfully integrated into different fabric types, including silk-like satin, technical outerwear wovens, and air-jet and draw-textured knits.
Kintra’s resin production reduces greenhouse gas emissions by 95 per cent, water usage by 30 er cent and energy consumption by 20 per centas compared to conventional polyester.
Known for its end-to-end fashion delivery services, Alpine Group has previously collaborated with major brands like The North Face, Sweaty Betty, American Eagle Outfitters, Under Armour, and Gap.
Lewis Shuler, Head – Innovation, Paradise Textiles, emphasises, the company seeks fiber technologies that reduce carbon footprints and offer sustainable alternatives to fossil-based synthetics. The company collaboration with Kintra will help harness its potential to create diverse textiles as Kintra’s material meets environmental standards besides delivering additional performance benefits.
Billy McCall, CEO and Co-founder, Kintra, adds, Paradise Textiles’ expertise in fabric development has been crucial in bringing Kinfra’s vision to life and this new prototype confirms the viability of the company’s material.
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Tiruppur knitwear exporters hail decision to lower cotton yarn prices by Rs 10 per kg
Knitwear exporters in Tiruppur have welcomed the spinning mills’ decision to lower cotton yarn prices across all counts by Rs 10 per kg. For instance, spinning mills in the city have lowered the the price of 20s kh (18.5 count) to Rs 210 per kg from the earlier Rs 220 per kg. Similarly, the price of 40s kh (38.5 count) yarn has been lowered to Rs 238 per kg from the earlier Rs 248 per kg.
Knitwear exporters hailed this move as a boost to both domestic production and exports, especially ahead of the New Year and Christmas season. They have been receiving increasing orders, bringing optimism about meeting export targets.
KM Subramanian, President, Tiruppur Exporters’ Association, states, the reduction in cotton yarn prices will help boost domestic production and exports, especially with cotton prices declining to Rs 56,000 per candy. This will enable exporters achieve their target of Rs 40,000 crore exports this year.
MP Muthurathinam, President, Tiruppur Exporters and Manufacturers Association, adds, besides, orders for New Year and Christmas, exporters are also receiving inquiries from Bangladesh. The recent price reduction will help exporters bag more orders.
While domestic sales were promising in the lead-up to Deepavali, overall demand fell short of expectations afterward. However, supported by the current decrease in yarn prices, export orders for Christmas and New Yearare likely to improve, he adds.
According to industry sources, this is the third price cut in 2024 after a reduction by Rs 20 per kg in Jan’24 and again by Rs 20 per kg in June’24.
Turkiye’s textile exports to Azerbaijan declines by 1.1 % from Jan-Oct’24: Report
From Jan-Oct’24, Turkiye’s textile exports to Azerbaijan declined by 1.1 per cent to $41.3 million as compared to the same period in 2023, as per a report by ABCAZ.
However, despite an overall decline, Türkiye's textile exports to Azerbaijan grew by 15.1 per cent to $5.5 million in Oct’24compared to October 2023, as per the report citing data from Turkish’s Ministry of Trade.
On a broader scale, Türkiye's total textile exports from Jan-Oct’24 declined by 1.6 per cent Y-o-Y to $7.8 billion. However, exports in Oct’24 increased by 0.4 per cent to $842 million as against exports in Oct’23.
Indian cotton companies banned for faking organic certifications, credibility at stake
Five Indian cotton companies have been banned by the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) for falsifying documents and engaging in fraudulent practices to obtain organic certification. This incident has once again cast a shadow over the credibility of organic certifications, particularly in India, which has faced scrutiny for a history of fraudulent organic cotton claims.
The banned companies, two based in Odisha and three in Gujarat, employed tactics such as using fictitious shipping companies and submitting forged transaction certificates to deceive the GOTS certification system. In some cases, the companies even created fake websites to support their fraudulent claims. These actions undermine the integrity of the organic cotton supply chain and erode consumer trust in organic products.
As per investigations, there was no material transfer and the shipping company was nonexistent," GOTS stated on its website. In some cases, forged National Organic Program (NOP) transaction certificates with QR codes linking to fake websites were used. This incident is not isolated one. In September, GOTS banned four other Indian companies for similar fraudulent activities, including stock manipulation and overselling. This pattern of deception raises serious concerns about the integrity of the organic cotton supply chain and the effectiveness of certification processes.
A dubious history
The organic cotton industry has long been plagued by fraud and dubious certifications issues. While demand for organic cotton has grown significantly due to growing consumer demand for sustainable and ethical products, the supply chain has struggled to keep pace with verifiable organic farming practices. "The organic cotton sector has a history of over-claiming production," says Liam Olive, an activist involved in investigating the recent case. "This latest incident highlights the ongoing challenge of ensuring authenticity and transparency in the supply chain."
One major issue is the supply chain complexity. Organic cotton often passes through multiple intermediaries – farmers, ginners, spinners, and traders – before reaching the final manufacturer. This creates opportunities for fraudulent activities, such as mixing conventional cotton with organic cotton or falsifying documents. India, in particular, has faced scrutiny regarding the authenticity of its organic cotton production.
While India is one of the largest producers of organic cotton, there have been concerns about the accuracy of its certification claims. A 2021 report by the Textile Exchange estimated the actual volume of organic cotton produced in India is significantly lower than the volume claimed by the industry. This discrepancy raises questions about the prevalence of fraudulent certifications and the need for greater transparency in the supply chain.
Credibility at stake
The repeated instances of fraud have had a significant impact on the credibility of organic certifications. Consumers are becoming increasingly skeptical about organic labels, and some are even questioning the value of organic products altogether. This scepticism is detrimental to the organic industry, which relies on consumer trust to maintain growth and sustainability.
"Organic certification is essential for ensuring the integrity of organic products," says a consumer advocate. "However, the recent cases of fraud have shaken consumer confidence. It is crucial for the industry to take steps to restore trust and ensure that organic labels are truly meaningful."
To address these challenges, experts emphasize the need for stricter enforcement of certification standards, improved traceability systems, and greater transparency across the supply chain. "It is crucial to strengthen oversight mechanisms and invest in technologies that can verify the authenticity of organic cotton at each stage of the supply chain," says a GOTS spokesperson. "This will help to ensure that consumers can trust the organic label and that the benefits of organic agriculture are truly realized."
This recent ban serves as a stark reminder of the ongoing challenges in the organic cotton industry and the need for continued vigilance and collaboration to ensure its integrity and sustainability.
Chic showcase: Chinese designers shine at Who’s Next &TheOne Milano
CHIC Paris showcases innovation at Who's Next
The Chinese fashion industry made a significant impact this September at two major European fashion events, spotlighting the creativity and innovation of top Chinese designers. From September 8-10, the second presentation of Chinese designers was hosted at the prestigious Who's Next trade fair in Paris under the CHIC Paris initiative, which featured the ‘Fashion China Pavilion.’ The event gathered 16 renowned Chinese designers, including brands like Lancy, VanSunsun, and Typetail, who showcased collections distinguished by unique aesthetics, cutting-edge materials, and sustainable production methods.
Located in Hall 7 at Port de Versailles, the Fashion China Pavilion welcomed buyers from around the world in an open-concept peach-colored booth. The layout drew in an international audience and encouraged engagement, as visitors experienced Chinese fashion creativity up close. The showcase drew enthusiastic feedback, with many buyers noting the collections’ craftsmanship and appeal, as well as orders like 1,000 items from William Zhang's Trui Berra brand. The event also saw valuable feedback sessions on local market adaptations, pricing, and brand positioning.
This year's collaboration between Who's Next and CHIC holds special significance, marking the 60th anniversary of diplomatic relations between China and France. Frederic Maus, CEO of Who’s Next, highlighted the fair’s commitment to bridging French and Chinese fashion industries, reinforcing cultural and business exchanges. Plans for future collaboration with the French Fashion and Apparel Industry Union (UFIMH) aim to further strengthen these ties. The Fashion China Pavilion concluded with a reception at the Balcony Paris showroom in Marais, where designers continued building international networks.
Moda Chinalaunches at TheOne Milano
Following the Paris event, from September 14-17, Chinese companies made their debut at Milan’s TheOne Milano trade fair. Through the China National Garment Association, 25 leading brands specializing in exclusive menswear, womenswear, and casualwear took center stage. Chinese companies captivated attendees with high-quality designs that demonstrated both creativity and global competitiveness.
Chinese brands at TheOne Milano emphasized market exploration and product launches. Standing out for their contemporary designs, these companies received considerable attention from trade visitors eager to experience Chinese fashion. The event yielded promising sales, as exemplified by Dingding Cap Industries, which secured a 3,000-cap order from a major Turkish retailer.
Bridging cultures and elevating Chinese fashion globally
Both Who's Next and TheOne Milano underscored the increasing global presence of Chinese fashion, blending traditional craftsmanship with modern trends. With positive reception and strong sales, these events have bolstered the profile of Chinese designers and manufacturers on the international stage.
The next chapter for Chinese fashion in Europe will unfold at PittiUomo in Florence from January 14-17, 2025, where more Chinese designers are expected to continue this momentum, shaping the future of global fashion.
