In the glittering world of fashion, where storytelling is everything, the small but powerful ‘Made in...’ tag is often the final word on a garment’s origin. It tells the consumer where their clothing comes from—or so they believe. But hidden behind this simple phrase is a global sleight of hand that masks the truth, erases identities, and quietly undermines centuries-old traditions.

In a factory in Noida, an artisan painstakingly embroiders a silk gown with zardozi threadwork passed down through generations. A few weeks later, that same gown is assembled in a Parisian workshop, given a final steam press, and tagged ‘Made in France’. The artisan’s story, and the country where most of the craftsmanship occurred, disappears in an instant.

This isn’t an isolated incident. It’s a global norm.

The loophole that changed everything

Thanks to a technicality in global trade law—specifically the WTO’s rule of ‘last substantial transformation’—brands can legally label a product based on where its final stage of production occurs, regardless of where most of it was made.

A leather handbag can be cut, stitched, and finished in Vietnam. But if its metal clasp is affixed in Milan, it earns the right to say ‘Made in Italy’. Similarly, a pair of jeans sewn in Bangladesh but distressed in Turkey emerges as ‘Made in Turkey’. This manipulation is not just legal—it’s deliberate. Stakeholders estimate that up to 90 per cent of a garment’s production may happen in one country, only to be rebranded through minor finishing elsewhere. A senior sourcing executive explains and says, it’s storytelling, not transparency.

The cost, erased artisans and stolen heritage

Nowhere is this deception more painful than in countries like India, Bangladesh, and Cambodia—all rich in textile history and home to generations of skilled artisans. Their contribution is crucial to the global fashion machine, yet they remain invisible.

As an artist working in craft clusters of Gujarat opines, they are not just losing jobs or fair wages rather they are losing ‘pride’. When a bridal gown that took three weeks of their best handwork is called ‘Made in France,’ it’s not just mislabelling, it’s theft. This isn’t merely about geography; it’s about erasure. Techniques like chikankari, kantha, and phulkari, each with centuries of cultural history, are commodified and rebranded under Western luxury labels with no mention of their true origins.

Selling illusions, the marketing of origin

For consumers, Made in Italy or Made in France isn’t just a label—it’s a promise of quality, heritage, and authenticity. These perceptions justify the high price tags. But that illusion is meticulously constructed and carefully maintained. A buyer paying $2,000 for a so-called French gown may never realize it was largely handcrafted in India. The romance of European couture is preserved, while the reality—a multi-country production involving low-wage labor—is concealed. Consumers think they’re paying for European quality, at a premium fashion house. In truth, they’re paying for European branding.

The real price of deception

This deception doesn’t just distort perception; it actively harms development. When garments made in South Asia are falsely labeled, it robs these regions of both recognition and economic opportunity.

If labels told the truth—if consumers saw “Hand-embroidered in India, Assembled in France,” perhaps they may not value the product more; perhaps brands may invest more in uplifting artisan communities and textile infrastructure. As textile researcher Priya Nair puts it, there’s a global market for Indian craftsmanship. But first, the world needs to know where it actually comes from.

The threads unravel

Luxury leather nags: A globally celebrated Italian brand sources leather panels and lining from Vietnam. The bag is stitched entirely in Asia but gets its ‘Made in Italy’ label after a logo plate is attached in Florence.

High-street denim: Jeans woven and stitched in Bangladesh are sent to Turkey for a final wash. The jeans, now with ‘Made in Turkey’ tag, are sold as products of Turkish denim heritage.

Couture gowns: Exquisite gowns embroidered in India are assembled and pressed in French studios. Despite Indian artisans' central role, only Paris makes the label.

Responsibility towards honest fashion

While global trade rules won’t change overnight, transparency must start with the brands—and the buyers. Co-origin labeling like ‘Crafted in India, Finished in Italy’ can help tell a more honest story. Some ethical brands have already embraced this practice, turning transparency into a competitive edge. Consumer awareness is key. Every purchase is a vote—one that can either uphold an illusion or demand integrity. In a fashion world built on stories, let’s ensure the one we wear includes everyone who shaped it.