The European Environment Agency (EEA) report's revelation of growing textile consumption and waste in Europe underscores a pressing environmental challenge. In 2022, the average European consumed 19 kg of textiles, generating 6.94 million tonnes of waste. This rise, coupled with the alarming 85 per cent of textile waste ending up in landfills or incinerators, necessitates a comprehensive response.

The environmental footprint

The EEA report emphasizes the significant environmental pressure exerted by textile production and consumption. This includes resource depletion such as high water and land consumption for raw material production for example cotton. Manufacturing, transportation, and disposal leads to greenhouse gas emissions. The use of harmful dyes and treatments lead to chemical pollution. And shedding from synthetic textiles leads to microplastic release.

"These data highlight the need for policymakers, industry and consumers to play their part in helping Europe move away from fast fashion and produce better quality, more durable textiles designed to last longer, be reusable, repairable and recyclable," the EEA emphasised.

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The most concerning aspect is the management of textile waste. Despite a slight increase in separate collection (up 4.3 percentage points since 2016), almost 85 per cent of textile waste ends up in landfills or incinerators, preventing reuse and recycling. This reflects a massive failure in the circular economy for textiles.

However, the concerning trend of escalating textile consumption and waste isn't confined to Europe. The US also grapples with significant challenges, driven by similar factors like fast fashion and consumer behavior.

Table: The EU-US comparison

The table indicates the comparison between the EU and the US

Higher consumption in the US: Per capita textile consumption is notably higher in the US compared to the EU. This is due to factors like larger average living spaces, a strong culture of consumerism, and widespread accessibility of fast fashion. The US has a robust fast fashion market.

Significant waste generation: Both regions generate substantial textile waste, posing environmental challenges. The percentage of textile waste that ends up in landfills is high for both. According to the EPA, 11.3 million tons of textile waste was landfilled in the US in 2018.

Regulatory differences: The EU is taking a more proactive approach through comprehensive regulations like the EU Textile Strategy and the CSRD. The US approach relies more on voluntary initiatives, although there's increasing pressure for stricter regulations. While recycling initiatives exist, the infrastructure is less developed compared to some European countries.

Fast fashion dominance: Fast fashion significantly impacts both, driving excessive consumption and waste. The US has a strong consumer culture, contributing to the demand for fast fashion and disposable clothing.

Factors driving the trend

What’s pushing the environmental impact is the rise of fast fashion, characterized by low prices and rapid turnover that fuels excessive consumption. A culture of disposability and a desire for constant novelty contribute to high waste generation. For example, Shein the ultra-fast fashion retailer exemplifies the problem, releasing thousands of new items daily. Reports show the extremely low quality of clothing, and the huge amount of waste generated. This is a very large contributor to the increasing amount of clothing waste.

Also, insufficient collection and recycling infrastructure hinders effective waste management. The prices of new clothing are very low, which does not reflect the true cost of production. For example, the Kantamanto Market in Accra, Ghana, is a stark example of the environmental and social consequences of textile waste dumping. Tons of discarded clothing from Europe and North America end up there, creating massive pollution and posing health risks to local communities. This highlights the global impact of Europe's textile consumption.

The ESG connection

The EEA report's emphasis on the environmental pressures of textile production aligns directly with the ‘E’ (environmental) pillar of ESG. Resource depletion, greenhouse gas emissions, chemical pollution, and microplastic release are all critical environmental concerns that businesses must address under ESG frameworks. The ‘S’ (social) pillar is equally relevant. The social implications of fast fashion, such as poor labor conditions in manufacturing and the detrimental impact of textile waste on communities in developing countries, are increasingly scrutinized under ESG criteria. The ‘G’ (governance) pillar relates to the regulatory and ethical frameworks that guide businesses. The EU's push for sustainable textiles, including the mandatory separate collection directive, reflects a growing emphasis on governance in the textile industry.

The EU directive and the path forward

The EU has unveiled its Textile Strategy, aiming to make textiles more durable, repairable, reusable, and recyclable. This includes measures to combat greenwashing and promote sustainable production. The EU directive mandating selective textile collection from January 1, 2025, is a crucial step. However, its success depends on:

Effective implementation: Member states must establish robust collection and sorting systems.

Investment in recycling technology: Advanced recycling technologies are needed to process textile waste.

Consumer education: Raising awareness about sustainable consumption and the importance of textile recycling.

Industry responsibility: Encouraging brands to adopt circular design principles and extended producer responsibility.

Extended producer responsibility: The producers should be responsible for the waste they produce.