Researchers at Carnage Mellon University have written an algorithm that can transform 3D designs into stitch-by-stitch instructions for industrial knitting equipment. The discovery can aid textile manufacturers in producing custom sizes and designs at affordable costs. The algorithm breaks down 3D meshes into step by step instructions for V-bed knitting machines. With the algorithm, garment manufacturers with proficient designing knowledge would be able to input 3D designs or meshes as instruction for the machine to knit. The feature will, therefore, allow manufacturers to work without the requirement of expert knowledge of computer programming. The technology could pioneer the industry towards a new market for custom sized and designed apparel.

Automation is not new to the industrial knitting equipment market or the textile industry. However, it has its limitations. Garment manufacturers can produce thousands of identical-looking knitted apparel in a day with the current machinery. But the current scenario overlooks the demand for custom-designed apparel which has been on the rise. Textile manufacturers, so far, have been unable to cater on the trend owing to the lack of expertise and equipment required to produce custom-design apparel.

The loop transfer technology incorporated in circular knitting machines allows for the seamless transfer of stitches thereby enabling manufacturers to produce structured designs and shaped fabrics.

People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (Peta) is now a shareholder in Levi Strauss. The animal rights organization has snapped up the minimum number of shares required to submit shareholder resolutions and secure speaking rights at annual meetings.

As a first step, Peta will attempt to persuade Levi’s to drop leather patches made from cow skin and use vegan leather. Cow skin has at least three times the negative environmental impact that using most vegan leather does. Cows killed for leather often endure extreme crowding, electroshock prodding, frequent beatings and castration and tail-docking without pain relief. Animal agriculture, under which the leather industry falls, is responsible for 14 per cent to 18 per cent of all greenhouse gas emissions. On the other hand vegan leather typically comprises petroleum-based synthetics such as polyvinyl chloride or polyurethane.

Levi’s says even though less than 10 per cent of the raw materials in its supply chain is from sources other than cotton, and a small fraction of that percentage is leather, the company strives to source all materials responsibly and that it ensures whenever materials derived from animals are used in its products, their health and welfare are protected, in line with international animal welfare standards.

To optimise yarn clearing further, Loepfe, a leading manufacturer of sensors and monitoring equipment for yarn spinning and fabric weaving processes, has developed the new adjustment tool P-Matrix for its YarnMaster Zenit+, which increases the clearing efficiency substantially. Extensive tests in a spinning mill in India showed impressive results.

The YarnMaster Zenit+ combines different sensor principles in one single device. This enables the customer to effectively control yarn quality. The P-sensor used for the synthetic foreign matter detection is based on the triboelectric effect. The sensor is sensitive to different materials, and is therefore, able to distinguish between cotton and synthetic foreign matter, such as polypropylene, polyethylene, polyamide (nylon) etc.

The unique sensor principle in combination with the new P-Matrix improves the synthetic foreign fiber clearing substantially. The P-Matrix facilitates the perfect adjustment of the clearing. The result is not only an effective clearing of synthetic contaminations, but at the same time an optimised overall production efficiency with less waste.”

The US has a free trade agreement with Morocco. Five classes of woven garments imported into the US can be made with fabrics sourced from outside of Morocco or the US and still be eligible for preferential treatment. These garments include women’s or girls’ cotton corduroy skirts and polyester corduroy manmade fiber blouses, shirts and blouses; women’s trousers of synthetic bi-stretch fabric containing certain percentages of polyester, rayon and spandex, and women’s trousers of woven herringbone fabric containing certain amounts of viscose rayon, polyester, cotton, wool, nylon and spandex.

Morocco had petitioned for these classifications of goods to be exempt from the yarn-forward rule on behalf of a domestic supplier because they were not commercially available in the US. There were other fabrics that Morocco also requested a waiving of the yarn-forward rule but the exemptions were not granted. Qualification of apparel for duty-free entry into the US requires adherence to a yarn forward rule, which limits the benefits that can be obtained from sourcing in Morocco.

Duties on 95 per cent of bilateral trade in industrial and consumer goods have been eliminated upon entry into force, with duties on other such goods to be phased out in stages in the next ten years.

Kornit Digital will hold a series of events, in New York from April 3 to 4, in Germany April 11 to 12 and Hong Kong, April 15 to 17, 2019. Textile printers, garment decorators, Kornit users, prospective customers and anyone who is curious about latest trends and technology in digital textile printing can gain exclusive market insights, best practices and inspirational thoughts.

Visitors to Kornit Discover will also have the opportunity to get hands-on demonstrations on Kornit’s latest innovations in polyester printing. Based on the company’s signature Neo Pigment Process, the Avalanche direct-to-garment printing system was developed to overcome the limitations and challenges of polyester printing. It allows a wide application variety with no compromises on productivity, design or cost. In particular, it solves the challenge of dye migration. Kornit will also preview an all-new roll-to-roll printing system in the Germany and Hong Kong events and perform live demos of the Kornit Atlas which has been launched in January and is the most cost-efficient direct-to-garment printing system for imprinting hundreds of thousands of garments per year.

Kornit Digital develops, manufactures and markets industrial digital printing technologies for the garment, apparel and textile industries. Kornit delivers complete solutions, including digital printing systems, inks, consumables, software and after-sales support.

The global garment industry is expected to expand by two-thirds by 2030 and be responsible for one-quarter of the global carbon footprint by 2050, up from two per cent in 2015. The fashion industry is recognized as the second-most polluting sector in the world after the oil industry. Luxury consumers are expressing a willingness to spend more for garments whose production doesn’t harm the environment or exploit workers.

Ethnic minorities hold just 11 per cent of board seats on the 15 largest publicly traded fashion companies. The case for making the fashion industry more inclusive is both moral and ethical and also makes business sense. The most technically and culturally diverse boards are significantly more likely to deliver higher profits and generate more sales.

While fast fashion industry is considered the main driver of rapid expansion in the textile industry, luxury industry can help raise standards that would put downward pressure on fast fashion. A rigorous best-practice program for garment factory inspectors still does not exist despite a global outcry after the 2013 collapse of the Rana Plaza building in Bangladesh killing more than 1,300 garment workers. An Italian fashion chamber roundtable has called on investors in the industry to make sustainability part of their criteria.

A coalition of 190 global investors has urged the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) to negotiate with the government for the extension of the Accord in the country. The Interfaith Center on Corporate Responsibility (ICCR), based in New York, sent a letter to BGMEA President Siddiqur Rahman, seeking his support so that the Accord can operate until the Remediation Coordination Council (RCC) takes over the charge of inspection and remediation of garment factories.

The ICCR is a coalition of shareholder advocates who view the management of their investments as a catalyst for social change and represents more than $3 trillion in assets under management, according to its website. Its 300 member organisations comprise faith communities, socially responsible asset managers, unions, pensions, NGOs and other socially responsible investors with combined assets of more than $400 billion.

The ICCR says investors are concerned that ending Accord’s work on Building and Fire Safety in Bangladesh would be too risky for the agency's signatory companies to continue to source from unsafe factories lacking a credible and effective regulatory system.

India is looking for an extension of the deadline US for withdrawal of export benefits to domestic exporters under Generalised System of Preferences (GSP) programme. Earlier this month, the US decided to go ahead with its decision to scrap the preferential trade benefit under GSP scheme after 60 days, which is expected to impact India's exports to the US worth $5.6 billion under this scheme. Although, the Indian government has said that the US government's move to withdraw duty concessions on certain products under the GSP programme will not have any significant impact on exports to America, small and medium exporters have flagged concerns.

India exported goods worth $5.6 billion under GSP last year, but India's total GSP benefits were to the tune of only $190 million. GSP benefits are envisaged as non-reciprocal and non-discriminatory to be extended by developed countries to developing economies. US President Donald Trump intends to end the preferential trade status granted to India and Turkey, asserting that New Delhi has failed to assure America of "equitable and reasonable" access to its markets, an announcement that could be seen as a major setback to bilateral trade ties.. As many as 3,700 products get GSP benefits but India exports only 1,900 items such as chemicals and engineering under that concession, which was introduced in 1976 by the US.

Climate resistance, odor control, UV protection, moisture management, and many additional benefits are available in today’s smart textiles that are engineered to work hard and look beautiful all day. Demand is growing for performance clothing that seamlessly crosses over from the gym to the street. Designers must rely on high-performance materials to contribute the majority of functional benefits that consumers require. Consumers want to know that the clothing they buy is made with consideration for the planet and that it does no harm during or at the end of its useful life.

To date, the vast majority of performance fabrics have been made from synthetic materials. While synthetics deliver outstanding technical benefits, consumers are starting to question some of the environmental aspects, including the raw material sources and potential microplastic pollution from use, care and disposal. Natural fibers like cotton, hemp, linen and wool are loved for their connection to the earth, but many of the performance features in demand today must be instilled into the fabrics with chemical treatments.

Botanic fibers like Tencel branded lyocell bridge the gap, combining high-performance benefits and natural origins along with an environmentally responsible profile from beginning to the end of its life cycle.

Leading global online fashion retailer, ASOS, is asking third-party brands to pledge to tackle modern slavery. The UK business has confirmed brands including Dr Martens, New Look and River Island have signed a pledge which includes mapping and assessing modern slavery risks, working with others to develop tools and resources to raise awareness of risks and training relevant employees about modern slavery risks within their businesses and supply chains.

ASOS has also released its annual Modern Slavery Statement in line with UK legislation. ASOS’ Modern Slavery Statement and the commitments contained within form a key component of ASOS’ Ethical Trade Strategy, which has been set up to help the brand tackle human rights impacts in its global supply chain and empower workers to realise and understand their fundamental rights. A key component of the strategy is an ambition to drive a systemic shift in the way ASOS Design and ASOS third-party brands approach ethical trade and sustainability.