UK retailer Marks & Spencer aims to increase the proportion of its Fairtrade, organic and recycled sources of cotton to 25 per cent by 2025. The company recently reached its goal of sourcing all of its cotton from non-conventional sources. Majority of the retailer’s cotton is now sourced through the Better Cotton Initiative, while the remainder is a combination of organic, Fairtrade and recycled cotton.

M&S moves comes at a time when there is a growing debate around cotton and, specifically, what constitutes sustainable cotton. M&S is switching away from the use of conventional cotton due to concerns about its environmental impact and, particularly, excess water use. M&S can take between 10,000 and 20,000 litre of water to produce 1kg cotton, depending on where the cotton is grown.

The Crafts Council of India (CCI) will organise the 34th edition of the textiles and accessories show in Chennai on April 5 and 6. The two-day event will see participation by some of the country’s leading brands, designers, and artisans in the textiles and accessories segment that will be showcasing their collections at the event.

The show will feature saris, dupattas, made-ups, blouses and stoles created by Vivek Narang, Avni Bhuva, Eachaneri Designs, Kapaas Kolkata, Sifat Banaras, Roha, Mura Collective, Blue Lotus, Buna, M.A. Sarees, Palash and Arjun Chouhan, among others,” Iyer added.

CCI was founded in 1964 by Kamaladevi Chattopadhyay and works together with a network of 9 State councils to promote traditional Indian craft across India.

Woolworths Group will shut about a sixth of its loss-making discount department stores over the next three years. These Big W shops which sell items like clothing, camping gear, kitchen appliances and televisions have been a drag on Woolworths' profitability since their falling profits in 2014 turned to mounting losses three years ago.

The division has been in turnaround mode since, without gaining much traction. According to investors, the announced exit from 30 stores at a cost of A$270 million ($192 million) illustrates both missteps along the way and the toughness of the market According to research firm IBIS World, compared with about 20 per cent for Big W, first-half earnings of the group slipped at previously outperforming rivals, Kmart and Target, which are owned by Wesfarmers and have a market share of nearly 50 per cent.

The division lost A$110 million in the 2018 financial year - less than the A$150.5 million it lost a year earlier. Woolworths expects the loss to narrow further this year but also flagged a A$100 million non-cash impairment owing to the gloomy outlook.

Australian start-up BlockTexx teamed up with The Queensland University of Technology to create a technology to separate polyester and cotton materials such as clothes, sheets and towels of any color or condition. The innovative process yields ‘high value’ raw materials of polyethylene (PET) and cellulose suitable for ‘all industries’.

The recovered PET is polymerised to create virgin-quality “S.O.F.T.” branded rPET plastic pellets and polyester fibre. These may be used in textiles, packaging as well as building products. The recovered cellulose is processed to create cellulose powder that may serve textiles, pharmaceutical and food applications.

BlockTexx aims to recycle and reuse more than 10 000 tonnes of polyester and cotton from Australian post-consumer garments each year. This could reduce CO2 emissions by over 15 000 tonne. Also, the BlockTexx method could reduce the energy used in production by over 50 per cent.

"On the rise since late 90s, the trend of brand extension started off as a marketing stint. The trend not only divides the marketing costs over a multitude of products but also gives the brands an opportunity to foray into other product categories or industries. It also allows them to create a new image in the consumer psyche using the reach of existing brand image."

On the rise since late 90s, the trend of brand extension started off as a marketing stint. The trend not only divides the marketing costs over a multitude of products but also gives the brands an opportunity to foray into other product categories or industries. It also allows them to create a new image in the consumer psyche using the reach of existing brand image.

A single destination for all consumer demands

Brand extension occurs on different levels. Brands first trudge safer boundaries through basic line extensions with extended-size collections or capsules. They then expand the product level by adding new ranges before finally foraying into adjacent industries such as homeware and beauty. Plus-size collections, disguised as a step towards inclusive fashion, are deemed as successful line extensions for Nike, Adidas, Macy’s and Target. Similarly, departmental all solution stores such as Primark started retailing licensed products for popular character inspired clothing, giving media an outlet to promote their entertainment ventures as and when they launched.

Several extensions can be created to cater to the masses providing them a single destination to fulfill all their demands. Ralph Lauren is one of the biggest and most successful instances as they harnessed the brand reputation to extend into Polo Ralph Lauren, Ralph Lauren Purple Label, and more, to cater to multiple consumer segments.

High fashion retailer Armani is yet another brand to provide a lifestyle solution as they operated through Giorgio Armani Privé, Giorgio Armani, Emporio Armani (including EA7), Armani Junior, and Armani Exchange, after announcing the closing of Armani Collezioni and Armani Jeans. It later on explored hospitality with the launch of Armani hotels that offer detailed Armani branded experiences right down to the last throw pillows and night lamps.

Products with a more intrinsic value

Studies by statista.com shows the furniture and homeware segment is inviting brands to offer products that hold more intrinsic value than a piece of clothing. Fendi, Gucci, Armani, Loewe and La DoubleJ have started their own furniture lines that provide the same brand factor to consumers on an extended level as a luxury wallpaper will span a season while a skirt is worn maximum twice. Furniture giant Ikea has collaborated with celebrated designer Virgil Abloh for a limited edition furnishing line that was sold out within days of its launch.

Fast-fashion and discount retailers are also launching their homeware range with the introduction of Zara Home by Inditex in 2003. Kidswear brands like Rachel Riley and Noe & Zoe are extending their categories to offer homeware ranges to help parents transform their kids’ wardrobes as well as living space. Multi-brand retailers and large format stores are also delving into the segment as Walmart launched a series of virtual showrooms online, while Asos recruited designers to create textiles, ceramics and hard goods for its first own-brand homeware collection.

Collaborations for technical advancements

Several brands are collaborating with players to use their expertise while adding technical advancement to the mix. Levi’s collaborated with tech stalwart Google to unveil a high tech jacket that provides the wearer the convenience of controlling smartphone features with basic arm movements with recent edition, Project Jacquard featuring ride-sharing support via Uber and Lyft.

. Thus, brands are providing a one-stop store solution to acquire a stake in the rapidly diversifying market and exploit new trends with the added advantage of being distinguished from the existing competition.

"Although the previous year was characterised by cautious optimism , various indicators in 2019 point to several factors that could dampen global economic-growth prospects. Global growth has averaged above 2.5 per cent since the financial crisis but now there are signs of stability. After a long period of accommodative monetary policy, the US Federal Reserve and other central banks have begun to raise interest rates, increasing the cost of borrowing for many companies and consumers. "

Although the previous year was characterised by cautious optimism , various indicators in 2019 point to several factors that could dampen global economic-growth prospects. Global growth has averaged above 2.5 per cent since the financial crisis but now there are signs of stability. After a long period of accommodative monetary policy, the US Federal Reserve and other central banks have begun to raise interest rates, increasing the cost of borrowing for many companies and consumers. The European Central Bank is also planning to tighten its monetary policy in the coming months, increasing the chance that global economic growth could start to slow.

Slower growth predicted in developed markets

The International Monetary Fund (IMF), the Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD), and the World Bank predict slower growth in developed markets in 2020, and a flattening of the growth curve in developing markets. And in 2019, there are signs that Europe, Latin America, and the Middle East could be most vulnerable to a deceleration. China and the United States could also face a slowdown, with fears of a potential bubble in the latter, and trade dynamics may affect consumer spending and fashion-sector growth in both. In a survey of more than 1,000 international executives and chief executives across industries published by McKinsey in December 2018, some 46 per cent expect global economic conditions to worsen, compared with 35 per cent in June 2018 and 15 per cent in December 2017.

They view economic conditions as a potential challenge, citing it as the third biggest trend for 2019 in the latest Business of Fashion-McKinsey ‘State of Fashion Survey’. Almost 42 per cent expect industry conditions to worsen in 2019. Excluding respondents from North America and the luxury segment, which are the main pockets of optimism, the majority of executives are even more pessimistic about the year ahead.

Rising investments lead to strong performance

The strong performance of global economy over recent years has been accompanied by rising investments by fashion-industry players. Around 68 per cent companies’ cost bases have risen over the past five years, while only 22 per cent have seen a decrease. Average selling, general, and administrative expenses (SG&A) were 36 per cent of sales in 2017, compared to 34 per cent in 2013, according to analysis from McKinsey’s Global Fashion Index. Priority investments in sales growth named for this year were omnichannel and e-commerce, developing customer-relationship-management capabilities, improving in-store experiences, and investing in brand building.

A strategic agenda to boost productivity

To offset the impact of slower growth and rising costs, companies need to set a strategic agenda to boost productivity over the coming period. Several companies have already taken steps, implementing cost-reduction and restructuring programs. As a result, SG&A ratios have become more fragmented, with leading companies seeing slower rate of cost increase than laggards.

Among companies to act are hosiery and bodywear specialist Wolford, which launched a restructuring program in late 2017; J. Crew, which said in 2017 it aimed to cut costs and rebrand; and H&M, which said in 2017 that it was aiming to reduce costs by 5 to 6 percent. More recently, in September 2018, Under Armour announced plans to continue to focus and drive productivity.

Looking at the year ahead, 17 per cent respondents to the BoF–McKinsey State of Fashion Survey said they would focus more on improving costs rather than growing sales. The main cost-improvement areas cited include reviewing organizational structure, diagnosing end-to-end efficiency opportunities, and reducing product-assortment complexity.

As the macroeconomic landscape shifts, companies will seek to protect themselves from slower growth by implementing “shock proofing” measures. These will primarily be aimed at boosting productivity through greater efficiency and cutting costs.

Vietnam’s revenues from textile and garment exports are expected to be up 14 per cent over the previous year. The escalating trade tensions between the United States and China have given Vietnam an opportunity to increase apparel exports to the United States. Garment exports from Vietnam to the United States in the first eleven months of ’18 were up nine per cent over the same period last year.

China, South Korea and Turkey account for 80 per cent of Vietnam’s total cotton yarn exports. Vietnam’s cotton imports are up 26 per cent. The country’s top five cotton suppliers are the United States, India, Brazil, Australia, and Cote d‘Ivoire. These countries make up 70 per cent to 80 per cent of the total cotton supply to Vietnam.

Vietnam’s cotton consumption continues to increase. Eighty per cent of cotton imported into Vietnam was spun into cotton yarn for export, while the rest was made into yarns of various types for domestic consumption. Vietnam’s cotton consumption is expected to rise 10 per cent due to recent developments in the textile and spinning sector. The textile and garment sector is one of the country’s top export industries, significantly contributing to the gross domestic product.

US denim apparel imports from around the world rose 3.12 per cent in January 2019 compared to a year earlier. Denim apparel imports from Vietnam increased 23.13 per cent in the month while denim apparel imports from China fell 1.9 per cent. Vietnam’s gains are generally seen as taking a bite out of China’s pie. More specialized manufacturing needed to make jeans compared to more basic apparel has companies taking a longer view of the risks of committing to China sourcing as trade tensions and cost increases hover above the country.

Jeans imports from Bangladesh fell 7.97 per cent. Pakistan’s shipments were down 20.3 per cent. US jeans imports from Cambodia decreased 13.46 per cent. But denim apparel imports from Indonesia rose 35.72 per cent. Sri Lanka’s shipments were up 8.15 per cent and imports from India rose 65.28 per cent. US jeans imports from Egypt rose 16.11 per cent. Jordan more than doubled its shipments on a year-to-year basis. Denim apparel imports from the western hemisphere increased 9.78 per cent in January. Imports from Mexico rose 11.52 per cent. In addition to Mexico, Nicaragua led the way with a 17.1 per cent gain and Guatemala nearly doubled its shipments from a year earlier.

As per the monthly report from the Commerce Department’s Office of Textiles & Apparel (OTEXA), US apparel imports from China increased by 8.5 per cent in January 2019, totaling $2.52 billion worth of goods. The January uptick came on the heels of US apparel imports from China increasing just 1.34 per cent in value in 2018 to $27.37 billion compared to 2017. It also came as companies rushed to get goods out of China before Lunar New Year on Feb. 2 and resultant factory shutdowns.

Among other Asian manufacturing havens, imports from Bangladesh rose 8.76 per cent in January compared to a year earlier to $535 million, India’s shipments increased 10.94 per cent to $382 million, and 8.31 per cent, or $232 million, more apparel arrived from Cambodia. Also posting smaller gains were Indonesia, with imports increasing 0.64 per cent to $408 million, and Pakistan, with a 1.92 per cent gain to $131 million.

Research collective Synflux has developed a system of digitised couture that reduces the amount of fabric needed to make clothes by creating garments that exactly fit the wearer’s body. Called Algorithimic Couture, the project involves 3D scanning a body to determine its exact proportions, which are used to create customised clothing. Synflux runs machine learning algorithms over the data collected to find the optimum garment pattern that reduces fabric waste to zero. The program then generates optimised fashion pattern modules comprised of 2D rectangles and straight lines. These 2D modules that make up the overall garment are then modeled using computer-aided design software to produce a fashion pattern for an item of clothing that is both comfortable and sustainable.

Synflux aims at disrupting the current system employed by the fashion industry, from design to factory production. It hopes that Algorithmic Couture will be widely implemented to reduce waste and energy in the fashion production industry more generally.

Synflux’s system also allows the user to customise the shape, fabric and color of the final garment to reflect their personal style. The garments are optimised to the user’s unique body shapes. Algorithmic Couture aims at revitalising how people fashion their own style through personalisation in the digital design process.