The VTT Technical Research Centre of Finland has received another funding boost to improve wood-to-textile value chains, enabling increased production of man-made cellulose fibers.

The VTT-coordinated project is known as the green chemicals and technologies for the wood-to-textile value chain (Grete). The Grete project aims at developing innovative technologies for wood pulp modification, cellulose dissolution and fiber-quality generation. Currently, the raw material base for the production of man-made cellulose fibers is limited, as only dissolving-grade wood pulps are commonly used. The project hopes to tackle this by widening the sustainable raw material basis for man-made cellulose fibers.

The solvent systems used for the production of commercial man-made cellulose viscose and lyocell fibers are based on toxic and explosive chemicals, but Grete hopes to increase safety, sustainability and the feasibility of man-made cellulose fiber manufacturing. There are currently several steps in the textile production value chain which cause extensive freshwater pollution, such as finishing treatments and dyeing of textiles. Fibers with novel functional properties open up the possibility for targeted and water-scarce finishing treatments.

By participating in the Grete project, companies hope to gain understanding on the pulp-regenerated cellulose-textile value chain and technologies and also understand the key requirements and specs for pulp on future markets.

Giada, the Italian jeanswear manufacturer is known for its luxury men’s denim brand Hand Picked has reported 10 per cent rise in revenues over that of 2017. For spring/summer 2020 Hand Picked has a total look collection.

The company founded in 1987 has been active in the denim and apparel markets since 1977. In addition to managing a licensing agreement with Jacob Cohën that started in 2004 and is expected to expire by 2021, Giada also produces and distributes Karl Lagerfeld Denim and Vilebrequin’s jeanswear line under licensing agreements. The company produces all its collections in Italy and is keenly focused on preserving the environment. One of Giada’s production hubs uses solar panels for producing electricity and recycles 60 per cent of the water used for manufacturing jeans. Denim remains are reused for products employed in the car industry, while pumice stones remains are recycled in the building and gardening sectors. Jeans are aged with laser treatments and through a special stonewashing technique that uses small plastic balls instead of pumice stones. This helps conserve water. The company uses mostly fabrics by Candiani Denim, Kurabo and Albini denims. Among Albini’s denims Giada also uses a special fabric obtained by recycling denim remains.

Filpucci, will launch its latest ‘Collection’ and ‘Woollen’ collections during next edition of Pitti Filati. Filpucci ® yarn collections represent the perfect combination of the best raw materials (high-tech and natural), the know-how in spinning and finishing process, and the integration of responsible innovative values: collections of pure contemporary luxury capable to represent a new level of smart innovation linked to transparent, sustainable and certified production.

Collection: The ‘Collection’ collection will present 28 types of yarns, including 22 continuous articles and 6 new developments, the result of precious blends involving variable raw materials such as South Africa Sustainable Mohair, GOTS certified organic wool (Global Organic Textile Standard) and ENKA viscose. Responsible Innovation echoes the desire to create a unique and innovative collection capable of reflecting at the same time the values inherent in the DNA of Filpucci and meeting the needs of style and quality required by the market.

Woolen: The second collection that will be presented, ‘Woolen’, is composed of 16 yarns, from the most subtle to the most voluminous titles, among which 3 new entries and 13 continuative. Woolen is enriched with new entries in the Ninetyfive family that combines Re.VerSo ™ cashmere - GRS certified - to the finest merino wool, RWS certified (Responsible Wool Standard), in the crispy, teddy and plume versions that add to the great classics. The Seventyfive is the absolute new entry, which combines 75per cent Re.VerSo ™ cashmere with 25per cent extra fine merino wool, RWS certified embracing new applications in the market.

Egypt is upgrading its upstream textile industry aiming to support the country’s upstream manufacturers’ competitiveness in global markets. The restructuring program aims at restoring Egypt’s prominent position in the world market and capitalising on the globally renowned fine Egyptian cotton fiber. The program includes: modernisation of spinning, weaving, knitting, dyeing, finishing, printing and confection, based on a product line definition which brings forth added value to Egyptian cotton, from cotton farming to readymade goods with world class levels in terms of quality and efficiency. The total value of the program includes around 7,80,000 new spindles and 1,250 new looms, dyeing, printing and finishing machinery and state-of-the-art cutting and sewing equipment.

The investments will stimulate the dynamism for upgrading technology in the entire industry and ensure a continual increase in productivity as well as technical and management skills, to maximise value creation within the Egyptian textile value chain. It will affect Egypt’s vertical integration and competitiveness.

Egypt’s upstream textile industry is trying to become a major regional sourcing hub in the Mediterranean region. Egypt’s textile and clothing sector is the most integrated on the African continent. The apparel sector is the country’s most important industrial sector.

Retailers and brand members of Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) sourced more than one million metric ton of Better Cotton in 2018. While all members contributed to sustainable cotton growth, the top users include some of the biggest companies producing fashion product globally. In volumes used, the top 15 accounted for 88 per cent of the material that was sourced last year. H&M bagged the number one position, with Ikea in silver medal spot and Gap taking bronze. Adidas and Nike rounded out the top five, ahead of Levi Strauss, C&A, PVH, VF, and Bestseller completing the top 10. The next five were Decathlon, Target, M&S, Tesco and OVS.

For some members, Better Cotton accounted for more than 90 per cent of total cotton used with Adidas, Hema, Marimekko and Stadium on that list, while for Decathlon, Fatface, H&M, and Ikea, the figure was over 75 per cent. And some brands upped their sustainable cotton usage more than 20 percentage points last year, with Benetton, Burberry, Fatface, Gant, Gap, Hema, La Redoute, Marimekko, Nike, Olymp Bezner, Peak Performance, PVH and Stadium all achieving that goal.

"It took a disaster of the magnitude of Rana Plaza factory collapse in Bangladesh to stir clothing manufacturers out of their slumber and raise some pertinent questions on dangerous industry practices that were being followed across the world. The tragedy, which killed over 1,100 people besides injuring 2,500, compelled factory owners to examine whether their clothes are causing human suffering and whether their workers are being exploited or paid below living wage."

It took a disaster of the magnitude of Rana Plaza factory collapse in Bangladesh to stir clothing manufacturers out of their slumber and raise some pertinent questions on dangerous industry practices that were being followed across the world. The tragedy, which killed over 1,100 people besides injuring 2,500, compelled factory owners to examine whether their clothes are causing human suffering and whether their workers are being exploited or paid below living wage.

Six years since the Rana Plaza collapse, many new websites and apps dedicated to rating fashion labels on their ethicality, working conditions and supply chain transparency have being created. However, as an Oxfam report states, not a single garment worker still earns a living wage with some being paid as little as 55 per cents per hours. Being aware hasn’t helped as the exploitation hasn’t stopped.

Brands overlook greenhouse effect to prefer polyester

As per McKinsey & Company, the consulting firm which releases the annual State of Fashion report, the fashion industry is responsible for 10 per cent of the world's greenhouse gas emissions. As Clare Press, presenter of the sustainable fashion podcast Wardrobe Crisis, notes, approximately 70 per cent clothes produced each year are made from synthetics. Of this, 70 per cent, polyester is one of the most common synthetic fibers used in our garments and shoes.

Kimberly Jenkins, a lecturer in fashion at Parson's School of Design in New York reveals the reason for this. She notes that as polyester has moisture wicking properties, yoga wear, sports clothing or athleisure wear is made of polyester.Baptist World Aid Australia, in its 2019 edition of Ethical Fashion Guide rated 400 brands on their systems to prevent slavery, child labour and environmental damage. However, it found that even companies that score an ‘A’ aren’t completely ethical. For instance, Adidas, the highest ranking brand, makes most of its garments with polyester. The brand has however, vowed to use only recycled polyester in its clothing and shoes by 2024.

Tackling one issue at a time

However, as per Clare Press, presenter of the sustainable fashion podcast Wardrobe Crisis, this is easier said than done. She advises brands to settle on one issue first and then go from there. On her part, Alyx Gorman, a fashion writer and engagement lead at Time Out, advises customers to check up on a brand’s parent company to evaluate its credibility.

Many labels are hiring people in the developing world. However,Kimberly Jenkins, a lecturer in fashion at Parson's School of Design in New York advises them to first provide adequate employment or educational opportunities to these people without which these opportunities are redundant.

Dealing with cultural insensitivity

Another ethical conundrum that needs to be addressed includes the cultural sensitivityshown by some of the world's biggest luxury labels in the past. For instance, a recent ad campaign by Dolce &Gabbana depicted a Chinese woman eating a pizza with chopsticks... a month later, Prada had to recall its red-lipped monkey key chains as the $550 figurines resembled blackface 'Sambo' character. This raises a pertinent question:why do brands — coincidentally, all luxury Italian labels — and many others keep making racially charged, culturally clueless gaffs?

Alyx feels, though societal standards regarding what’s appropriate and what’s not are changing, many brands are yet to catch up on these. Though these brands are jumping on the "wokeness bandwagon" — it's not always sincere.Last year, American NFL quarterback Colin Kaepernick became the face of Nike's Just Do It campaign, which marked the 30th anniversary of the slogan. Though Jenkins supports the collaboration with Kaepernick, she's still not a big Nike shopper as one who wants to see ethical treatment and a clean record in terms of what's going on in their factories and how their shoes are produced.

However, even these small step augers well for the industry as brands have now rolled up their sleeves to change the systems that harm people, animals and the planet.

The 89th edition of the International Fair for Childrens wear, Pitti Bimbo, organised by Pitti Imagine, concluded on June 22, 2019 at Fortezza da Basso venue.

The event hosted around 603 exhibitors, which included newcomers as well those making comebacks. The Pitti Special Click was the theme of the 89th edition Pitti Bimbo show, which is composed of the energy circulating around the Fortezza.

The 89th Pitti Bimbo show exhibited the latest trends in the market and their current behaviour in sales. Nearly 5,300 buyers from about 60 countries majorly including Russia, Spain, Germany, the UK, China, Belgium, the Netherlands, Turkey, Ukraine and France participated at the event.

The Kid’s Lab was one of the eminent additions to the show and. Kidswear inclusive of innovations was one of the highlights showcased in five different sections: KidzFizz for experimental fashion; #Activelab for urban athleisure; the incubator section The Nest with its emerging brands; EcoEthic, dedicated to sustainable products; and the Mini Me capsule collections in the Kid’s Evolution section.

The Emporio Armani Junior S/S 2020 collection was amongst the most distinguished debut exhibitors like Araia Kids, G-Star Raw, Jacob Cohen Junior, Lotto, Pinko and TiA CiBANI KiDS and was displayed with a special installation in the Sala della Scherma.

Some of the renowned fashion labels that exhibited at Pitti Bimbo were Dolce & Gabbana Kids, the CWF group with the Little Marc Jacobs, Boss, Karl Lagerfeld and Billieblush labels, C.P. Company Undersixteen, Herno Kids, Miss Blumarine, Monnalisa, Petit Bateau, Philosophy by Lorenzo Serafini, Manila Grace, North Sails and Sundek.

The 89th edition of Pitti Bimbo focused on children’s fashion from Andalusia (with Calatea Kids, Abuela Tata, Beatriz Montenero, Mimosines, Nekena and Babine) and Georgia (Antsi, Giraffe Kids, Eshvinkids and Spillow).

There were also several catwalk shows, including one by the Children’s Fashion From Spain collective and Modaportugal (Cherry Papaya, Knot, Laranjinha, Patachou, Phi Clothing, Piccola Speranza and Play Up). Tuscan label Monnalisa, for 50 years a leader in premium children’s readymade garments, presented its new Spring/Summer 2020 collection.

Inditex is still betting on its network of physical stores to drive growth. Though the Zara owner has shrunk its network in its home market of Spain by 15 per cent since 2012, the company has actually increased its overall selling space in Spain since 2012 by opening or expanding flagship outlets in prime locations. Inditex has nearly 7,500 stores globally, over a quarter of which are those of Zara.

Inditex is the world’s largest clothing retailer. Inditex’s net retail space in Spain increased in the last financial year on an annual basis. The retailer is bucking the trend in an industry where companies are shrinking their real estate portfolios, either by shutting shops or reducing store sizes. Shoppers are increasingly chasing bargains online, industry profit margins are declining. In fact Inditex’s business has been built on a rapidly expanding store network. The thinking behind the Inditex strategy is to close the secondary stores and enlarge and improve their flagship stores.

This year, the company expects growth of around four per cent. It has more than doubled sales over the past decade. However, Inditex’s operating margins have fallen in each of the past six years, from 19.5 per cent in 2013 to 16.7 per cent last year.

Higher spending capacity and rise in disposable income are some of the important drivers of the global denim apparel market. Another driving factor is the fact that denim is a material of choice for a large number of consumers due to its comfort and style. The rise in population of young consumers who favor denim for its style quotient is propelling the denim apparel market. Manufacturing facilities set up by international brands in developing economies are expected to present lucrative opportunities for the denim apparel market.

Denim is a fabric made of cotton that is rough and thick in nature. Denim was initially designed for use in work clothes and slowly gained importance as a material used in other types of apparel. Today, denim is an important and fashionable item in every wardrobe.

One of the key trends in the market is experiments with new apparel styles using denim fabrics with lighter grams per square meter. Stretch denim is another new fabric chosen by consumers in their denim apparels. Additionally, manufacturers are experimenting with colors and distressed textures. Another trending factor in the denim apparel market is the rise in preference for recycling denim apparel. Some manufacturers are engaged in recycling campaigns where they take back used jeans from their customers.

The first OutDoor by Ispo will take place from June 30, 2019 to July 3, 2019 in Munich. The fair will feature over 50 international exhibitors in nine halls with more than 96,000 sq. mt. of exhibition space in the Munich exhibition centre. In close cooperation with the industry, the Ispo team has tried to develop a modern, consumer-centred concept for the event. Their aim is to inspire as many people as possible worldwide, to break down inhibitions and to show the multitude of possibilities and varieties of "outdoor" that consumers have long been experiencing.

The focus of the fair continues to be classic outdoor activities such as climbing or hiking, however, it is also adding new segments such as mountain biking, trail running and water sports are being added. In addition, OutDoor by Ispo opens up sectors outside the outdoor industry such as environmental technologies or digital trade and technology solutions.

Another focus of the fair is on sustainability. The fair aims to reflect the pioneering role of the outdoor industry in terms of awareness of sustainability and social responsibility in the apparel sector. The trade fair has developed a holistic sustainability concept that is to be implemented as a fact-based sustainability guideline with concrete recommendations for emissions, water and waste management.

The new ticketing model at the fair is intended to motivate retailers to visit the trade fair: Retailers, wholesalers and distributors will receive their day ticket in the Early Bird tariff from 15 Euros until 20 May 2019. Other groups of trade visitors will start at a ticket price of 75 Euros.