The Andhra Pradesh Textile Mills Association (APTMA) is sounding the alarm over the dire state of the state's textile industry. A confluence of issues, from soaring cotton prices and plummeting yarn values to rising power costs and post-COVID market turbulence, has left the industry's financial health and operational stability hanging by a thread.

Adding to the industry's woes are withheld subsidies, peak-hour power cuts, and the recent imposition of electricity duty, true-up charges, and FPCCI fees. As a result, numerous mills are grappling with financial obligations, with six already shuttered, endangering the livelihoods of thousands of direct and indirect workers.

In a plea to the Andhra Pradesh government, APTMA urgently requests the release of pending power incentives, subsidies, and a Rs 2 per unit electricity subsidy akin to Telangana. They also seek relief from recent electricity-related charges and call for incentives to transition to sustainable energy sources.

The textile industry is a linchpin of the state's economy, and immediate government intervention is crucial to ensure its survival and safeguard countless jobs. Neglecting this crisis could spell disaster for both the industry and the state's economic prospects.

Karl Mayer, a global leader in textile machinery, has unveiled its latest innovation, the RJ 4/1 EL, during the ITMA ASIA 2023 event in Milan, attracting significant attention from industry insiders and potential buyers. This new addition to their RASCHELTRONIC machine line sets a new standard for four-bar machines, offering enhanced flexibility and pattern versatility.

Unlike its premium counterpart, the RSJ 4/1, the RJ 4/1 EL boasts an EL pattern drive, which allows for rapid pattern changes without limitations on repeat length. Additionally, the integration of KAMCOS 2 technology enables the machine to seamlessly access pattern data from the KM.ON cloud, enhancing efficiency and convenience.

The RJ 4/1 EL operates at an impressive speed of 1,300 min -1, maintaining the high-efficiency reputation of the RASCHELTRONIC series. This multifunctional machine breathes new life into the lingerie and sportswear sectors, offering a wide range of design possibilities, from Spotnet articles and lace-like bands to intricate satin stripe patterns and lapping variations.

Stefan Gross, Product Developer Textile Technology at Karl Mayer, emphasizes the machine's potential, including its ability to create opulent floral and geometric motifs with filigree mesh fillings and matt-gloss effects. The RASCHELTRONIC articles produced exhibit a subtle drape, a silky-smooth texture, and a freecut style, making them ideal for effortless garment production.

The RJ 4/1 EL is now available for worldwide sales and has already garnered significant interest, particularly in the Chinese market. Karl Mayer (CHINA) is set to showcase the machine during ITMA ASIA, providing a unique opportunity for industry players to witness its impressive capabilities firsthand.

Clean Clothes Campaign (CCC) strongly denounces the brutal suppression of garment workers in Bangladesh who are advocating for a wage increase to 23,000Tk, and calls on the Bangladeshi government to uphold workers' right to peaceful protest. 

The tragic shooting of Rasel Hawlader, a garment worker demanding the 23,000Tk minimum wage, highlights the dire situation. Protests erupted in October 2023 when the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association proposed a minimum wage of 10,400Tk, far below the 23,000Tk demanded by trade unions. 

This glaring disparity underscores the failure of the wage-setting process to align with legal standards and international conventions.

The unrest has claimed additional lives, revealing an alarming level of worker repression. CCC condemns brands that have failed to support the workers' just demands, effectively legitimizing an undemocratic wage negotiation environment. The protests are spreading, driven by the desperate need for a family-sustaining wage. 

CCC calls on the Bangladeshi government to end the violence against workers and cease politicizing the protests. Brands sourcing from Bangladesh must also take responsibility, condemning violence against workers, supporting fair wages, and ensuring workers' voices are heard in wage negotiations. CCC expresses solidarity with the affected workers and their families, demanding the protection of workers' freedom of association.

Teejay Lanka PLC, one of Sri Lanka's top textile manufacturers, has staged a remarkable comeback in the second quarter of the fiscal year 2023-24, signaling a strong revival from its earlier losses. The company reported a profit before tax of Rs 1.2 billion for the three months ending on September 30, 2023, marking a substantial gain of Rs 1.9 billion compared to the preceding quarter, reflecting a remarkable quarter-on-quarter growth of 275%.

The net profit for the same period was Rs 943 million, representing a gain of Rs 1.8 billion from the net loss of Rs 853 million reported in the first quarter, marking a significant quarter-on-quarter gain of 211%. Teejay Lanka's revenue for the reviewed quarter reached Rs 15.5 billion, an 11% increase from the previous quarter.

Teejay Lanka Chairman, Ajit Gunewardene, attributed this impressive turnaround to a series of strategic initiatives and changing market conditions. Despite lower figures compared to the previous year due to sales volume decreases, Rupee appreciation, and underutilization of capacity, Teejay Lanka demonstrated resilience in a challenging economic backdrop.

However, the Group expressed concern about the impact of changes in taxation, which resulted in a 121% increase in taxes for the Group during the quarter. For the first half of 2023-24, Teejay Lanka reported revenue declines of 39%, profit before tax declined by 81%, and net profit saw a sharp 96% drop compared to the first half of the previous year.

Despite the challenging environment, Teejay Lanka maintains a strong Balance Sheet with a substantial cash and cash equivalents balance of Rs 12.9 billion. CEO, Pubudu De Silva highlighted the success of strategies like identifying new customers, introducing new product segments, capacity optimization, and investment in advanced infrastructure.

Teejay Lanka's affiliation with the US Cotton Trust Protocol and its impressive transparency in corporate reporting underline the company's resilience and commitment to adapting to evolving industry dynamics.

MAS Holdings has marked a significant milestone in Sri Lanka's renewable energy sector with the completion of the second phase of Project Photon, a rooftop photovoltaic (PV) solar power initiative. 

This ambitious venture, which began in 2017, has propelled MAS Holdings to the forefront of the country's renewable energy industry, making it Sri Lanka's largest roof-mounted solar energy generator and supplier.

Before Project Photon, MAS Holdings had a modest 1.7 MW of solar capacity spread across various locations. However, this project has added 6 MW in Phase II, bringing the total solar generation capacity to an impressive 23.7 MW. 

With 67,000 solar panels installed at their facilities, MAS is set to save approximately 18,000 tons of CO2 annually and power around 34,000 households. Furthermore, Project Photon has set a national benchmark for solar generation roof rentals, inspiring other solar investors.

The project represents a crucial step for Sri Lanka, especially in the midst of an energy crisis. MAS Holdings' commitment to reducing emissions and investing in renewable energy solidifies its position as a leader in sustainable manufacturing. 

The completion of Phase II at the MAS Fabric Park, the country's largest rooftop installation, is a significant part of this effort. As the company continues to set new standards, it aims to positively impact not only the apparel and textile industry but also the nation and the environment.

All is not well in India’s garment manufacturing and exports. The country has seen almost one-fifth decline that is around 22.6 per cent between April and August 2023 as compared to the same period in 2022. Even textile manufacturers who generally do well regardless of the ups and downs in the RMG segment have seen a decline of around 2 per cent during this period. 

The Confederation of Indian Textile Industry (CITI) on the Index of Industrial Production for textiles and clothing have noted there was a slight 1.6 per cent improvement in textile production, although there was a cumulative index decline for April this year. In the RMG segment, there was a huge drop of 17.1 per cent in August 2023 and around 22.6 per cent during the whole of April- August 2023 period as against the same period last year.

Strict quality control, reduced production effect exports

Analysts attribute several reasons for the decline. The government’s recently imposed Quality Control Order which requires a Bureau of Indian Standards certification for man-made fibre including those that are imported. Most domestic textile manufacturers cannot source these raw materials as per government’s specifications from international markets due to higher prices and non-availability.

Also, many garment exporters have reduced workers’ shifts or cut down overtime production due to lack of orders and so there is production loss but no job loss. However, the recent drawback in duty hikes may help in reviving exports in a market that has been slow since mid-March. Also, apparel industry stakeholders are optimistic about high sales during Diwali and the wedding season. If current production trend continues longer, there will be more job losses for the lower and middle income groups.

Trade show to focus on Make In India initiatives

Optimistic that a global trade show could help uplift a slow economy, the Clothing Manufacturers Association of India (CMAI) will be hosting India's largest apparel brands show 'Brands of India' in Dubai from November 27 to 29.  Hosted at the Dubai World Trade Centre (DWTC) it will showcase latest collections of around 350 top Indian apparel brands.

With a large Indian expat population, the UAE has always been a big importer of Indian RMG across the Middle East and Africa region in 2022-23, with imports valued at over $1.21 billion. The same trend continues despite all odds, as India's RMG exports to the entire region reached $2.68 billion in the last fiscal 2022-23. Even in the first seven months of the current fiscal 2023-24, around $774.5 million has already been exported.

The tradeshow will showcase a wide range of Indian ethnic, western and fusion Wear across the men, women and children segments through around  275 stalls spread across 70,000 sq. ft. area at DWTC. Well known brands such as BIBA, Soch, Stori, Cover Story, Sin, Ancestry, Indifusion, Touch, Dollar, Gini and Jony, Rachna Udyog, Siyaram, A-La Mode, Nostrum and Body Mark among many others are some of the main participants at the show.

Rahul Mehta, Chief Mentor, CMAI says, aligned with the government’s Make in India and Atmanirbhar Bharat initiatives, the Brands of India show by CMAI represents a significant stride in offering the initial platform for both national and regional apparel brands to venture into international opportunities.

The Brands of India global event is expected to give a well-rounded umbrella of opportunities for Indian apparel brands to showcase their products to a global audience and explore new business opportunities.

News From The Future features work by Dutch students and emerging designers

The Fashion for Good Museum has opened its doors for the new pop-up exhibition News From The Future. The exhibition features work by a selection of up-and-coming talents composed of Dutch fashion students and emerging designers, who have been asked to respond to the question: "what could the future of fashion look like?"

The exhibition features a variety of mediums, including garments, videos, and installations. Some of the highlights include:

Recognize the reconstruct, a photo by Ricky van der Zandt that explores the use of post-consumer waste in fashion

Cosmic Summer, a collection by designer Kevin Paraiso that features vibrant colors and sustainable materials

Classroom of the Future: The Stories Behind Cotton, an educational toolkit that has been developed into an open source resource for MBO and HBO education

On November 8, 2023, the U.S. Fashion Industry Association (USFIA) will host its 35th Annual Apparel Importers Trade & Transportation Conference in New York City. The event will bring together fashion brands, retailers, importers, and service providers to discuss the latest updates on trade policy, transportation, compliance, and other hot topics.

One of the key focuses of the conference will be U.S. trade policy and its impact on companies' supply chains. Confirmed government speakers include Rob Silvers, Undersecretary for Policy at the Department of Homeland Security and Chair of the Forced Labor Enforcement Task Force; Eric Choy, Executive Director of the Trade Remedy and Law Enforcement at U.S. Customs and Border Protection; Natalie Hanson, Deputy Assistant U.S. Trade Representative for Textiles; and Jennifer Knight, Deputy Assistant Secretary for Textiles, Consumer Goods, Materials Industries, Critical Minerals and Metals at the Department of Commerce.

Industry experts will also share their insights on a range of topics, including combatting forced labor, supply chain management, and trade compliance. 

The textile industry is on the cusp of a digital transformation, with advanced technologies revolutionizing traditional manufacturing practices. Digital shop floor management and innovative solutions like Digital Production Management (DPM) by KM.ON are empowering textile manufacturers to enhance efficiency, transparency, and sustainability across the industry.

Amidst a rapidly changing market landscape, textile manufacturers are tasked with optimizing production elements to maximize value and profitability. Digital shop floor management provides real-time data insights, transforming manufacturing operations and enabling optimal efficiency, cost savings, and control.

KM.ON's DPM, a groundbreaking software solution tailored for the warp knitting sector, leverages the power of the Internet of Things (IoT) and advanced analytics to create transparency on the shop floor. DPM empowers production managers with real-time, production-specific key figures, enabling data-driven decisions that enhance efficiency.

DPM's specialized features include a Performance Report for comprehensive overview of factory performance; Piece Overview for real-time tracking of production progress

DPM implementation offers a host of benefits, including leaner processes, reduced paperwork, minimized administrative overhead, enhanced transparency into fabric quality and production progress, and improved resource allocation. 

In a constantly shifting market environment, DPM's integration of real-time data, advanced analytics, and operational control paves the way for greater profitability. 

Source Home & Gift, the only international sourcing platform of its kind, is continuing to grow strong, with over 430 exhibitors expected to be at its third edition from 4th – 7th February 2024 at NEC Birmingham.

This year, the show has increased in size by 25%, with producers from UK, China, India, Philippines, Nepal, Senegal, and Ghana showcasing their wares.

Suzanne Ellingham, Director of Sourcing, says that the show is changing the perception of sourcing in the UK, focusing on quality products and championing not only large-scale global manufacturers, but also makers and social enterprises that are making a difference to communities around the world.

Ellingham is particularly excited about the show's focus on sustainable manufacturing, and says that she is "blown away by the work people are doing and some of the incredible stories behind the products."

The show will feature eight sectors: Homewares, Toys, Packaging, Stationery & Greetings, Gifts, Furniture, Textiles, and Technology & Services.

In addition to the exhibition, Source Home & Gift will also feature a content stage dedicated to presenting and discussing the latest trends and topics in responsible and sustainable manufacturing from internationally renowned industry professionals.

The show is expected to be attended by high level personnel from leading retailers and brands.