Next edition of Itma will be held in Barcelona, Spain from June 20 to 26, 2019. The event will showcase fibers, yarns and fabrics as well as the latest technologies for the entire textile and garment manufacturing value chain. The largest number of exhibitors are from Europe, with CEMATEX countries accounting for approximately 65 per cent of all exhibiting companies. Italy represents the largest contingent, followed by Germany and Spain. Outside Europe, companies from Turkey, India and China occupy top spots in total floor space reserved. Viewed by sectors: finishing exhibitors account for 25 per cent of all exhibits in terms of space, followed by spinning with 14 per cent, printing and weaving with 12 per cent each, and knitting exhibitors with 11 per cent.

Exhibitor categories showing the largest growth include the garment making and printing and inks sectors. Garment making counts a number of first-time exhibitors eager to demonstrate their robotic, vision system and artificial intelligence solutions; and the number of exhibitors showcasing their technologies in the printing and inks sector has grown 30 per cent since Itma 2015.

Itma has been a catalyst and showcase of groundbreaking innovation since 1951. Participants will be able to share new developments, discuss industry trends and spur creative efforts, thus ensuring a vibrant innovation culture in a global context.

 The new Guess Eco capsule collection for men and women is made with environmentally conscious materials and manufacturing processes. The denim offered in the Guess Eco collection is made with technology that uses, on average, roughly 30 per cent less water per garment and reduces chemical use throughout production. The fabric is made using a pre-reduced indigo dye that cuts chemical use and lowers overall environmental impact throughout the product manufacturing process. Jeans are distressed with reusable stones, while pocket linings are made with 30 per cent recycled polyester content.

The women’s Eco collection includes jeans, a denim jacket, 100 per cent organic cotton logo and graphic T-shirts and a 100 per cent organic cotton logo bodysuit. The men’s line offers a slim tapered jeans in medium and light wash and 100 per cent organic cotton logo tees and buttondown shirts.

Guess is ramping up its environmental standards. The brand aims at embracing existing solutions as well as trying new ones to address social and environmental challenges. It’s taking the steps necessary to improve its supply chain. By 2020, it aims at making its global operations greener and encouraging consumers to buy more eco-conscious garments. This year Guess mapped its denim production by water availability and assessed the sustainability of its denim products.

India will extend the upgraded Rebate of State and Central Taxes and Levies scheme to all textile products. The scheme reimburses garments and made-up exporters all un-remitted input taxes paid at the state and central levels. RoSCTL includes value-added tax on fuel used in transportation, captive power, farm sector, mandi tax, duty of electricity, stamp duty, embedded SGST and CGST paid on inputs and central excise duty on fuel.

This is being done to prepare the sector for an eventual withdrawal of the Merchandise Export Incentive Scheme (MEIS) that flouts global trade rules. Under this scheme, exporters are given incentives equivalent to about four per cent of their export value in the form of duty credit scrips that can be used to pay customs duties and are freely transferable. Since it is a direct export subsidy, and the textile sector’s phase-out period for such subsidies ended in 2018, it would have to be withdrawn soon.

The textile sector has long graduated out of the special dispensation that the WTO extends to vulnerable sectors or countries that need support by allowing them to extend export sops that are otherwise banned. If the MEIS is extended for a longer period to textile exporters, and a WTO member files a dispute, India doesn’t have much of a defense. Hence the need to replace the scheme.

Retailers in the US are rolling out trendy plus-sized collections. They are dedicating more time and resources into developing plus-sized collections — a sign they are starting to see them as bigger potential revenue streams than they have in the past. They aim at giving plus-size customers the same trends, same colors, same wonderful print and patterns that are available in other women’s lines. The pieces have bright colors and prints, trendy cuts, and fun details, rather than the historical plus-sized collections from traditional retailers whose offerings don’t expand much beyond neutrals and basics.

Retailers are starting to increase the size spectrum of brands carried in-store and online. Mannequins with a variety of body shapes are being used to display clothing, so more women have another tool in-store to figure out what type of clothing will work with their body type. The point is to get the industry to stop thinking of plus size clothing as a separate entity. Traditional retailers risk falling even further out of touch with the plus-size market if they don’t give their plus-size lines the same attention, both in-stores and online, as other collections. So far traditional retailers were marketing plus size collections differently from other women’s apparel lines.

George will use only recycled polyester in its collections by 2025. The brand, which is the second largest clothing retailer in the UK, will further increase transparency around its supply chain by publishing a list of its second-tier apparel factories – those typically dyeing, printing and finishing garments – on its website, joining its existing list of first tier factories, where clothes are cut, sewn and trimmed.

George, the fashion and homewares arm of the supermarket Asda, will also extend its work on microfiber shedding. The retailer will also help its customers to understand more about the sustainability of their garments and how to reduce the environmental impact, with increased visibility of garment care and awareness of how they can repurpose, reuse or recycle old clothing. George has a zero-tolerance policy towards incineration and donates garments that cannot be sold to charitable organisations to be repurposed.

The products launching in the retailer’s spring/summer range include blouses and dresses made with fabric from recycled polyester clothing. George’s sustainability strategy builds on the work it has done to date and sets stretching targets and commitments to reduce the environmental and social impact of its products. Asda is currently performing tests to understand the extent of shedding from different fabrics.

Accord has found safety faults in many readymade garment factory boilers in Bangladesh. The platform of European brands and buyers inspected 35 boilers of 17 Accord-covered readymade garment factories and found faults in all the boilers. The boiler equipment at the factories was inadequate or defective. Four factories required immediate boiler shutdown due to critical safety findings.

The inspection identified calcium build-up, which reduces the capacity of the boiler and it can corrode the boiler wall, reduce efficiency, and lead to leakage and spray of boiling water. The inspection also found boiler components/parts missing such as no or inadequate pressure valves, no or inadequate pressure monitoring systems, faulty electrical wiring and incomplete or non-existent technical data sheets. Five boilers did not have the required certification of the Bangladesh Chief Inspector of Boilers and they had been produced by an uncertified manufacturer. Boilers that have not been produced, installed and maintained following international and Bangladesh boiler standards constitute a potential life and property threat hazard.

A group of five Accord engineers were trained by international boiler inspectors from Germany for the inspections. The boilers selected for inspection were a representative sample of different sizes, fuel supply, types and capacities of boilers used in garment factories in Bangladesh.

"This year’s Yarn Expo Spring saw a 9 per cent increase in visitors. The show welcomed 28,302 visitors from 87 countries and regions. Around 468 exhibitors from 12 countries & regions showcased their latest offerings at the show. The fair covered 26,000 sq. mt area at the National Exhibition and Convention Centre in Shanghai."

This year’s Yarn Expo Spring saw a 9 per cent increase in visitors. The show welcomed 28,302 visitors from 87 countries and regions. Around 468 exhibitors from 12 countries & regions showcased their latest offerings at the show. The fair covered 26,000 sq. mt area at the National Exhibition and Convention Centre in Shanghai. Organised by Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd and the Sub-Council of Textile Industry, CCPIT, Yarn Expo Spring 2019 was held concurrently with Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics – Spring Edition, Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles – Spring Edition, PH Value and the China International Fashion Fair (CHIC). Yarn Expo Spring.

Diverse products, innovations on display

Yarn Expo Spring offers a wide variety of products and innovations. “This attracts trade buyers from throughout the supply chain,” noted Wendy Wen, Senior General Manager of Messe Frankfurt (HK). She said they also witnessed more downstream buyers sourcing directly from exhibitors. “They recognise that the properties of yarns and fibres are essential for ensuring a high-quality end-use product.” The fair welcomed buyers from top brands such as Fila, Guess, Ralph Lauren, Jack Jones and Vero Moda, as well as Adastria, Itochu, Li-Ning, Maracaibo, s.Oliver and a buyer delegation from Korea.

Brands like Sankom, seeking a unique functional fibre, visit Yarn Expo to meet specific sourcing needs. This includes particular yarns or fibres needed to maximise efficiency or sustainability.

Exhibitor happy with the response

Ravindranathan Narayanasamy, Director, The Cotton Textiles Export Promotion Council (Texprocil), India Pavilion organizer said, “Visitors to Yarn Expo are very professional and match our exhibitors’ expectations. This edition also has a lot of new importers. We place a lot of value on this fair.” Manohar Samuel, Senior President (Marketing & Business Development), Grasim Industries leveraged this platform for its own innovation campaign and marketing story.

First time exhibitor Mohamed Al-Fayed, Commercial Director, Perfect Spinning Company, Egypt saw the fair “as a large market for sustainability.” He said, “Worldwide brands, seeking eco-friendly products are attending this fair. This proves beneficial to us.”

Visitors appreciate eco-friendly products

Like the exhibitors, visitors too appreciated the high quality of the show. “The quality and range of suppliers at Yarn Expo is quite high. I’ve already placed an order for 20 containers worth with one exhibitor. Yarn Expo benefits our business as all the major Chinese manufacturers are here, as well as those from Pakistan and India,” said “Asim Raza, Senior Manager, Yunus Textile Mills Ltd, Pakistan” Sebastian Jaramilo, Altex, Columbia, who was particularly looking for eco-friendly products said,” There are a lot of certifications such as BCI cotton available her. Many companies committed to environmentally-friendly policies are also attending this fair. I can meet new connections here, and also place onsite orders with my existing suppliers. So far, I’ve placed orders for 10 containers.”

The next Yarn Expo fair, the Autumn Edition, will be held from September 25 to 27, 2019, at the National Exhibition and Convention Center.

"Dealing a huge blow to the WTO, President Donald Trump in August 2018 threatened to withdraw from the organisation if it fails to upgrade operations to reflect a modern, rapidly changing world. If this threat is executed by the WTO, it would not only impact multilateralism and global cooperation but also the entire international trading system."

Dealing a huge blow to the WTO, President Donald Trump in August 2018 threatened to withdraw from the organisation if it fails to upgrade operations to reflect a modern, rapidly changing world. If this threat is executed by the WTO, it would not only impact multilateralism and global cooperation but also the entire international trading system.

The Geneva-based WTO facilitates trade deals and settles disputes to help producers of goods and services, exporters, and importers conduct their business. Its 164 members account for almost 98 per cent of all global trade. The organisation recently initiated several measures to boost developing economies through preferential trade policies. One of the reasons why the US plans to exit WTO is it loses all trade disputes settled by the body. The country wins all the lawsuits that are filed by it but loses around 90 per cent of the cases filed by other countries against its trade practices. These rulings threaten the country’s national sovereignty and ability to strictly implement its trade laws.

US’ refuses to nominate new judges to the WTO

The US has also accused the WTO of failing to keep up with changes in the global economy, with rapid growth in services and technology sectors difficult to regulate effectively. The country, which has the power to nominate judges at the WTO's final court of appeal, has refused to allow any new names to be put forward to decide disputes. As the term of several judges on the Appellate Body is likely to expire this year, the US’ refusal to nominate new names would leave less than three judges at the organisation, posing a serious existential threat before it.

Need for unanimous approval delays reforms

In November, the Chinese Ministry of Commerce proposed three fundamental principles and five proposals for reforming the WTO reform. Thus many parties seek reform in the WTO. However, none of them seek the same reform posing one of the biggest challenges to the organisation. Any major change needs unanimous approval from every member. A case in point is the Doha Round of Negotiations, a draft of WTO reforms that still has not been approved by the 164-member body, almost 18 years after first being proposed.

"The spring edition of Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles effectively captured business during China’s peak sourcing season for home textile finished products. It attracted 25 per cent more exhibitors and 6.8 per cent more visitors than previous edition. The three-day show welcomed 22,296 visitors compared to 20,870 in 2018 from 60 countries and regions to connect with 291 exhibitors (2018: 232) from 10 countries and regions."

The spring edition of Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles effectively captured business during China’s peak sourcing season for home textile finished products. It attracted 25 per cent more exhibitors and 6.8 per cent more visitors than previous edition. The three-day show welcomed 22,296 visitors compared to 20,870 in 2018 from 60 countries and regions to connect with 291 exhibitors (2018: 232) from 10 countries and regions.

The show, organised by Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd; the Sub-Council of Textile Industry, CCPIT; and the China Home Textile Association (CHTA), exhibited a wide range of home textile products ranging from bed linen, pillows, mattresses, and cushions, toweling products to textile designs, machinery, silk products etc.

Fringe programs inspires the industry

The comprehensive fringe programme, one of the show’s highlights, continues to draw participants’ attention. This year, the show collaborated with Tmall, to connect the entire industry with innovative ideas. A series of seminars were organized to discuss the most debated topics, including domestic consumption upgrade, took place. Leading home textiles companies shared their thoughts on trends, automation solutions, application of new materials and other subjects, brining valuable insights to the attendees.

Exhibitors, buyers show optimism

The show received widespread appreciation from its exhibitors. As Barry Young, Managing Director, Jaspa Herington, Australia said “the company’s purpose was to meet new buyers and to represent our brands, and the fair is helpful for this.” Sachin Pahal, Anubhav Terry Craft India exhibited at the show because of its high visitor show. “There were serious buyers from Singapore and Latin America. They were all interested in importing our cotton towels,” said Pahal.

Much like the exhibitors, buyers too appreciated the show for its innovative products and ideas. As Mohamad Hammoud, Representative, Phoenix, UAE noted “Intertextile Shanghai has always been my first choice as it helps with my sourcing. This year, I am especially satisfied with the quality of the domestic companies here.” Dharia Farasram, Hwa Sung Trading Company, Korea, whose aim was to check Chinese production technique and services, was particularly impressed “with the latest product collection from fabrics and bedding products to textile machines,”

The next edition of Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles Autumn Edition will be held from August 28 to 31, 2019.

Scientists in Korea have developed a textile-based display technology that is washable and does not require an external power source, paving the way for smart clothes. Polymer solar cells have been one of the most promising elements for next-generation power source, especially for wearable and optoelectronic applications because they can provide stable power without an external power source, while organic light emitting diodes can be driven with milliwatts.

However, the problem was that they are both vulnerable to external moisture and oxygen. The conventional encapsulation barrier is sufficient for normal environments. But it loses its characteristics in aqueous environments, such as water. It limits the commercialisation of wearing displays that must operate even on rainy days or after washing. To tackle this issue, the team employed a washable encapsulation barrier that can protect the device without losing its characteristics after washing through atomic layer deposition and spin coating. The encapsulated device exhibited no deterioration in properties over 30 days even after being subject to both bending stress and washing. Since it uses a less stressful textile, compared to conventional wearable electronic devices that use traditional plastic substrates, this technology can accelerate the commercialization of wearing electronic devices.