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Tuesday, 03 January 2023 14:28

Emergence of concept stores

  

The year 2022 saw many global retailers unveil concept stores to create a more intuitive and convenient shopping experience for customers.

E-commerce giant Amazon unveiled a physical apparel store called Amazon Retail. The store offers a personalised, convenient shopping experience where Amazon’s technology and operations make it easy for customers to find new styles.

The store features women’s and men’s apparel, shoes, and accessories. Multinational clothing brand H&M opened a first of its kind rotating style store which features a thoughtfully curated selection of the brand’s most fashionable styles, and the store also hosts exclusive programming and brand moments in a space designed to evolve throughout the year. Leading omnichannel retailer Kohl’s started Discover @ Kohl’s, a new store experience. Kohl’s Discover @ Kohl’s is a new feature that curates new and seasonally relevant brands throughout the store for the back-to-school season. The store shows a designated back to school area that highlights brands that not only offer unique products and supplies for the school year, but also incorporate a give-back purpose. Nike partnered with Topsports to open a brand experience store in China. The rise retail concept store owned by Topsports and Nike represents Nike’s first store developed in collaboration with a strategic partner in China.

Tuesday, 03 January 2023 13:51

India: Karur asks for wet processing

  

Textile manufacturers and exporters of Karur want a textile wet processing park. They feel this will reduce the cost of wet process for exporters and manufacturers and make them competitive in the global market. They also want an integrated textile trade facilitation center to help market the products of Karur.

The textile clusters of Karur in Tamil Nadu have shown phenomenal growth in the last few years leading to an increase in the demand for skilled labor. Exporters in Karur expect to reach a sales turnover of Rs 25,000 crores by 2030.

Meanwhile Tamil Nadu has received several applications from representatives of textile units across the state to set up mini textile parks. Of these, 43 are from Karur district. Karur is a hub for quality made ups and home textiles in Tamil Nadu. Kay Ventures has teamed up with Hydra Micro Business Solutions to convert Karur into a global knitwear center.

Tirupur is another major cluster known for cotton knitwear. Though these towns are just 100 kms apart, the growth of Tirupur has been phenomenal. While Karur does an export turnover of Rs 4000 crores a year, Tirupur has breached the Rs 40,000 croremark. One of the key factors behind this stark difference is the difference in the size of the segments they cater to. The size of the clothing sector is many times more than the home textiles market. However, this is set to change because knitwear made an unnoticed entry into Karur sometime in 2016.

Tuesday, 03 January 2023 13:44

Denim mill uses tool to reduce waste

  

A denim mill from Pakistan has developed a technology which enhances operational efficiency and reduces resource depletion, cost and waste.

Rapid Clean, developed by US Denim Mills, is an eco-efficient alternative technology designed to replace water-intensive and pollutant fabric finishing processes. This smart technology allows the conservation of natural resources, ultimately playing its part in reduction of greenhouse gas emissions. The process curates fine-quality denim fabrics with an immaculate look and feel.The technique has been effective in producing sustainable and laser-adaptive denim fabrics with less resources and opening new horizons for design.

This concept has also enabled US Denim Mills to make black overdyed fabrics. The denim fabrics developed while using this technology are cleaner, brighter and softer. Its efficient features help shorten the garment finishing time, as this process improves the denim’s ability to adapt to lasers and supports a quick wash, thus reducing water and energy used in the process.

The characteristics of Rapid Clean technology make the solution perfect for both major denim fabric colors (blue and black). Rapid Clean has been able to drastically diminish resource outflow across the washing, de-sizing and overdyeing processes.A sustainable mindset has become an essential business need today, putting manufacturers under immense pressure to innovate eco-friendly manufacturing techniques at every possible stage

Tuesday, 03 January 2023 13:43

India: Exports of junior wear up 11 per cent

  

India’s exports of children’s wear grew 11 per cent from January 2022 to October 2022. From January 2022 to September 2022 India’s exports of children’s wear increased by 16 per cent.

The US has a 36 per cent share in India’s export values in the category, followed by UK (15 per cent), UAE (six per cent), Germany (four per cent) and France (four per cent). Among the top five destinations, children’s wear exports dropped significantly in the UAE market, by around 32 per cent, while exports to the US, UK, Germany and France tapped decent growth.The fall in the UAE market is a concern for Indian children’s wear exporters as exports have been falling despite the India-UAE free trade agreement that came into force in May 2022.

Clothing worn by children up 14 years is referred to as children’s wear. These garments are often composed of high-quality materials that provide comfort and breathability, and come in a wide range of colours and textures. The children’s apparel market in India is growing at five percent a year.The market is primarily driven by the rising number of nuclear and double-income households in India. Strong economic growth in recent years and increasing purchasing power, along with the changing spending patterns of parents with an increasing inclination toward providing their children with enhanced comfort and convenience, is boosting the sales of branded and high-quality children’s apparel.

  

Cambodia’s garment exports to Australia increased by 17 percent in the first nine months of the current year.

This has been mainly because of the Regional Comprehensive Economic Partnership (RCEP) of which both are members. The 15-nation free trade agreement of which both are members provides duty-free access to almost 90 percent of goods between member countries.

While Cambodia is a net exporter of finished garment products, Australia is a net importer.Still Australia’s share in total apparel exports from Cambodia is a mere one percent. It shows the vast opportunity for Cambodia and Australia to boost the trade volume between the two.The Australian market, meanwhile, prefers more casual garments compared to America and Europe.

Cambodia’s earnings from exports of garment products – clothes, footwear, and travel goods – during the January to September period this yearincreased by 24 percent. The US is the top importer of Cambodia’s garments, with a share of 34 percent. The garment sector is the largest foreign exchange earner for Cambodia, accounting for almost 60 percent of the country’s total export value. There was a nearly 40 percent growth from May 2022 to June 2022 for garments, footwear and travel goods exports from Cambodia.

  

The spring editions of Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics, Yarn Expo, and Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles have been postponed by three weeks to the new dates of March 28 to 30, 2023.

A better turnout is expected due to easing pandemic restriction policies in China. The fairs will still be located at the National Exhibition and Convention Center where they were originally due to be held from March 8 to 10, 2023.

The rescheduling of the fairs is also expected to allow both local and international fair goers more time to prepare for their participation. Adjusting the spring show dates to the end of March is expected to provide enough time for exhibitors and visitors from local and abroad to plan for the fairs and capitalise on the ample international business opportunities brought by the reopening of China’s borders.

China recently eased pandemic guidelines including reopening the border and scrapping quarantine, testing on arrival, and health code requirements for travellers starting from January 8. In line with these measures, more international flights are resuming, while the border between Mainland China and Hong Kong is scheduled to reopen gradually by mid-January 2023.

These steps send a clear signal that China is ready to open up for international business.

  

New Delhi will study the environmental impact of units engaged in dyeing or washing of garments and metal surface treatment activities such as electroplating and phosphating.

Effluents from such small scale units operating in non-conforming and residential areas flow directly into the Yamuna, increasing its pollution load.Most of these units operate without permission orwithout effluent treatment plants. Their effluents have high concentrations of ammonia and phosphates, one of the primary reasons behind the thick foam on the river water.

Activities such as dyeing or washing of jeans and other garments or metal surface treatment — electroplating, phosphating, and anodising etc. — have huge water consumption and pollution potential. An environmental study will be conducted to know the pollution potential and its treatment facilities, impact on the environment and remedial measures. It will ascertain how much water is being used by these units and the capacity of the treatment plants and water bodies in their areas.

Effluents discharged from such units are a cocktail of carcinogenic chemicals, dyes, and heavy metals which also pollute drinking water sources. Some textile dyeing industrial units were found to be operating without any license or pollution clearance certificate. The dyeing units were releasing polluted water without treating it first.

 

Luxury brands in 2023

Year 2023 opens up many possibilities for global luxury brands, flushed with the sector’s success in the previous year. As per Mediaboom Global, 2022 yielded more than $312 billion and annual growth predicted at 5 per cent. Whilst luxury brands continue to look strong they also seem unfazed with the current economic slowdown being faced by many economies around the world.

However, economists and analysts are questioning if this parade will hold itself through 2023. After two years in lockdown, a substantial number of consumers who hadn’t spent money under lockdown came out to the world to travel, socialize and network like it was 2019 and spent as much to dress for it. That was 2022.

The new year may be a bit different as the initial enthusiasm has cooled off with prospects of recession across the US, the world’s largest luxury goods market, China, the second largest luxury goods market grappling with a pandemic situation all over again and the EU fighting energy crisis and a very high inflation. Experts say, the enthusiasm of 2022 may cool off in 2023 given the uncertain economic times ahead which may be in direct contrast to a Statista report that predicts a luxury goods market valued at $350 billion by 2030 with a 4 per cent GAGR. According to the report, the top five luxury brands in 2023 will be Gucci, Dior, Chanel, Louis Vuitton and Hermès.

Report suggest resilience to recession

As per management consulting firm Bain & Co., performance of the luxury segment in the final quarter of this year will largely depend on the progressive lifting of Covid-19 pandemic restrictions in China, as well as the evolution of European and American luxury consumer confidence in the face of rising inflation and cost of living pressures. While this report was prepared in October 2022, the current scenario does not exactly mirror the statement.

However, the company’s report concludes that 95 per cent luxury brands will achieve positive sales growth this year, regardless. A Bain spokesperson said the luxury market now appears better equipped to cope with economic turbulence with its consumer base both larger and more concentrated. Customer-centricity and a multi-touchpoint ecosystem as factors will contribute towards resilience amid disruptions. It is clear that confidence factor is riding high in this sector which has prompted high levels of investments in future growth.

Therefore, the luxury goods sector may not see the 2022 levels of profits in 2023 but will be driven by continued growth. As per Claudio D Arpizio, lead author of the Bain’s Global Luxury Goods and Fashion Report, the nouvelle vague or new wave of the luxury goods market will demand evolution amid disruption, adaptation amid uncertainty, and an expansion of creativity in all of the basics – all while new trends and concepts develop. It seems the luxury goods market is going to be more resilient in 2023 than it was after the financial crisis of 2009.

Entry of developing markets

Even as the US continued to hold pole position in luxury purchases, Europe’s post-pandemic bounce back was also noteworthy, particularly France and Germany and the return of North American as well as Middle Eastern tourists. The promise factor though comes from South Korea, South East Asia and India. The big question for the luxury goods market in 2023 is about China’s recovery from the ongoing Covid crisis which doesn’t seem to subside. Hopefuls are predicting that the second largest purchaser of luxury goods could bounce back by mid-2023.

India is being seen as the rising star as predictions indicate great growth potential driven by the changing attitudes towards lifestyle in general and luxury in particular by the younger generations. The Indian market for luxury goods is expected to expand by 3.5 times by 2030.

 

Italian Textile Machinery

 

Italian textile machinery manufacturers are confident and upbeat about 2023 as the new year will be the springboard for strong future growth as it indicates healthy progress after the disruption of the last few years. As was projected, Italy’s textile and garment industry made a positive turnaround in 2022 and piggy-backing its success is the related machinery sector. The global textile machinery market is valued at $29 billion in 2023 and is projected to reach $52 billion by 2033, at a CAGR of 6.1 per cent from 2023 to 2033.

Currently, Switzerland is the world’s largest producer of textile machinery with 40 per cent global market share. Italy too holds a strong position as one of the main suppliers of textile machinery in the world, together with Germany, Japan, China and Switzerland. Italy’s market share of world exports of textile machinery is about 11per cent. And as per Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers (ACIMIT), creativity, sustainable technology, reliability and quality are the characteristics that have made Italy a leader in manufacturing of textile machinery. There are approximately 400 companies who produce textile machines and related accessories.

ACIMIT is confident of 2023 and beyond

As per Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers (ACIMIT) the value of Italian machinery production in 2022 is expected to exceed €2.5 billion. This register is a 10 per cent increase compared to previous year. Almost 85 per cent of this value was from exports. As per ACIMIT’s spokesperson, the association has forecasted a slight growth between 2023 and 2026, due to the current negative conditions prevailing worldwide and resonating across the textile and garment industry.

Italian textile machinery is certified with sustainable performance and digitally enhanced. ACIMIT is actively participating in ITMA 2023 being hosted in June in Milan, showcasing 380 Italian textile manufacturing and associated companies. At ITMA, ACIMIT will focus on selling the green-labeled and digital certified aspects of Italian machinery. ACIMIT will unveil these initiatives at a press conference on March 15, 2023.

ACIMIT goes to green-labeling machinery and digitisation

Italian textile machinery manufacturers are seriously committed to solving ecological issues that taint the textile sector. As Alessandro Zucci, President, ACIMIT told textilegence.com that “A commitment that ACIMIT has made its own by developing the Sustainable Technologies project. At the heart of the initiative is the Green Label, the document that certifies the energy and environmental performance of the machinery and summarizes it by giving a value to the carbon footprint of the machine itself. Through a survey on the Green Labels produced from 2016 to date, the quantified avoided emissions using green labeled machines are 1.2 billion tonnes of carbon dioxide equivalent, corresponding to 2,21,187 cars travelling for 35.000 km over a year.”

Furthermore, Italian textile machinery is now digital ready and ACIMIT is issuing DIGITAL READY certificates, a first in the Italian textile machinery sector. As Zucchi points out, the certification is designed to simplify production process, making use of a standard language and unique data reading system that allows different types of machinery to dialogue with production systems. The certification aims to build customer loyalty while establishing virtuous link between textile machinery manufacturers and their customers.

China top importer, India among fastest growing market

Whilst Turkey, India and Uzbekistan will be the fastest growing market for Italian textile machinery in 2023, China will continue being the largest single buyer, followed by Turkey coming in second. From January to June 2022, Turkey imported machinery worth €145 million. The most favored machinery for Turkey were finishing and knitting machines. For India, Italy was the fifth largest supplier with 5 per cent market share compared to China that has a 39 per cent market share. The US is also a key importer of Italian textile machinery with about 280 active importers.

 

American luxury

 

For years Europe has taken centre stage in the world of luxury brands with France and Italy in the forefront. The French word haute couture epitomizes ultimate luxury of bespoke apparel and the official appellation is granted by ‘Chambre syndicale de la haute couture’ to luxury brands that meet the stringent standards of creativity, quality and exclusivity. The US, despite being the single largest luxury market in the world for decades, has not had a seat at this table until now. However, when Estée Lauder purchased the iconic brand Tom Ford in November 2022 for $2.8 billion, the world has woken up to the entry of American luxury in Europe’s domain. Tom Ford has turned out to be far more expensive as a luxury brand than the Chanels, Diors and Guccis of the world. A Tom Ford suit starts at $5,000 compared to a bespoke Zegna suit that starts at $3,000. A 30ml Tom Ford’s Lost Cherry scent retails at $240 which is more than a 30ml bottle of Miss Dior at $72 and a 30ml bottle of Hermès D’orange Verte at $ 132. It is the first time that an American brand has out-positioned European luxury brands in terms of premium pricing and met success.

American brands are quintessentially mass or bridge

When it comes to fashion brands that have catered to the masses for their fashion fix, the US has not been wanting. Sports brands like Nike and Under Armor are now legends not only in sportswear but also in athleisure, the new trending fashion. Old Navy, GAP, Banana Republic, Levi’s, Wranglers and a slew of such mass brands have held sway in the mass global market. The US has also produced bridge brands that straddle the middle between mass and luxury and is often termed accessible luxury – Kate Spade, Coach, Tory Burch, Tommy Hilfiger, Michael Kors, Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein are some of the more well-known ones.

It must be noted since US is a young nation born out of a revolution, it did not have the legacy of aristocracy, kingly courts and entourages that were traditional patrons of luxury across Europe. What the US did have was economic success pre and post WWI and WWII, which influenced the world with its casual lifestyle that was seen as liberating, equalizing and trendy. Hence, the success of mass fashion a la American style. The success of mass or high street American brands gave birth to its very own accessible luxury brands that sat well with upwardly mobile professionals who wanted a taste of luxury without the deep end pocket.

The current world of luxury

According to Statista Luxury Markets by Revenue 2022 Report’s rankings, the American luxury goods industry lead all other nations by far, generating around $65 billion 2020 and expected to reach $81.5 billion by 2025. China remains the second largest luxury market valued at $39 billion in 2020 and expected to reach over $56 billion by 2025. Japan, France and Germany are in third, fourth and fifth position with 2020 values at $28.2 billion, $14.1 billion and $11.9 billion and 2025 projections at $36.1 billion, $ 20 billion and $17 billion respectively. The downturn of the Russian economy after its war on Ukraine has not created any dent in the luxury goods sector as it only represented a mere 2 per cent of the total value. In 2022, LMVH remains the most valuable luxury brand, valued at $124.3 billion, and its fiscal year 2021 revenues at $68.41 billion.