Inter-textile Shanghai Home Textiles concludes successfully
The 26th edition of Inter-textile Shanghai Home Textiles successfully concluded on August 26. The fair welcomed a total of 643 exhibitors this year and drawn more than 25,000 trade buyers. The fair has continued to be the perfect forum for linking global suppliers. Home textile industry customers, considering the tough times we are all facing.
Shanghai textile fair introduced a brand-new online business matching platform. Which promote business exchanges between suppliers and buyers from around the globe in view of the current international travel restrictions.
Inter-textile provides a much-needed business platform for the industry as many trade shows were cancelled in the first half of the year. The pandemic has brought great changes to the market trends as well. For instance, customers are now focusing more on their health and safety. So products with anti-bacterial properties are becoming increasingly popular.
H&M ends relationship with Chinese yarn supplier
Swedish clothing giant Hennes & Mauritz AB (H&M) has ended its relationship with a Chinese yarn producer over accusations of forced labor involving ethnic and religious minorities from China’s Xinjiang region.
The fashion retailer specified that it did not work with any garment factories in the region and that it would no longer source cotton from Xinjiang, which is China’s largest cotton-growing area.
A report by the Australian Strategic Policy Institute, published in March, accused H&M of benefitting from a forced labor transfer program through their relationship with the dyed yarn producer Huafu Fashion Co’s factory in Anhui Province.
However, H&M said it never had a relationship with the factory in Anhui, nor Huafu’s operations in Xinjiang It did concede that it has an indirect business relationship with one mill” in Shangyu in Zhejiang Province, belonging to Huafu. The company also said that it had conducted an inquiry at all the garment manufacturing factories it works with in China to ensure that they are not employing workers.
Coats Digital launches GSDCost V5
Coats Digital, the software business of Coats, the world’s leading industrial thread company, has launched GSDCostⱽ⁵, the latest, highly intuitive, browser-based version of the only globally recognized, time-cost manufacturing standard for apparel brands and manufacturers.
The stand-out enhanced feature of GSDCost, is the introduction of a globalised fair wage tool, which combines the international standard time for any given style, with detailed factory efficiencies, contracted hours and the fair living wage for the country. This allows brands and retailers to quickly agree the fair living wage allowance for any given garment, in any factory in the world. The GSDCostV5 fair wage tool brings a new level of visibility and transparency to market-leading brands and manufacturers in discussions on time, cost and compliance. This supports and demonstrates a commitment to fair, sustainable wages and the ethical treatment of garment workers around the world.
GSDCostV5 launches with a native integration into the Res.Q shop floor suite of solutions providing a real-time, digital feedback loop of actual versus standard minute value at the operation level, highlighting variances and opportunities for proactive, continuous improvement. Further integrations with Res.Q will leverage the power of digitized machine inventory and line planning. This will provide the basis for a new level of line balancing, method optimization and faster, more detailed and accurate capacity planning.
GSDCostV5 supports a more collaborative, transparent, efficient and sustainable apparel supply chain, taking time-cost benchmarking, costing optimisation and method improvement to a new level. By doing this, it places people and fair wages at the heart of the recovery from the global pandemic.
Euratex publishes paper on GSP revision
Euratex has issued a position paper on the revision of the Generalised Scheme of Preferences (GSP) where it advocates for a series of changes to be considered in the forthcoming revision.
Euratex says, trade policies can encourage countries in respecting human, social and political rights, but these efforts should not be standalone. They should be accompanied by other programmes and policies. Respect of good governance and human rights comes also from better monitoring of the conventions annexed to the GSP regulation. Plus, their implementation should be quick, effective and the EC should be the primary actor in the assessment process.
Euratex believes that the withdrawal mechanism should be applied to GSP standard beneficiary countries in case of serious and systemic violations of principles related to the protection of the environment and good governance.
EURATEX proposes the next regulation to cover a wider range of products. GSP beneficiary countries will then need to diversify their exports and do not depend on one or few sectors. Such diversification will boost their investments and make their economy more stable in the long term.
Finally, EURATEX emphasises that the current safeguard mechanism should allow a certain level of predictability for the economic operators. Therefore, it should be activated only when conditions are fulfilled, communication on it should be transparent, and it should be extended to all GSP countries.
Ricoh launches new DTG printer
Ricoh, a Japanese innovative technologies and service offering company has launched Ricoh Ri 2000 Direct to Garment (DTG) printer.
The Ricoh Ri 2000 prints 1200x1200 dpi resolution on a wide range of garments, from traditional t-shirts or tote bags to an extended application range of canvas shoes, baseball caps or long sleeve shirts. It also supports the production of textile face masks and safety vests via the flexibility of the quick-change magnetic platen mechanism and the automatic table height adjustment that easily switches between garment types. .
The Ri 2000 sets a new benchmark in terms of productivity and efficiency in its class. This is achieved by integrating hardware and advanced software end-to-end: enabling colour consistency, automation of production workflows and creation of white layers for printing on dark garments with ColorGate’s Textile Production server; continuously monitoring ink supply, temperature and humidity levels, reducing human interaction whenever required; intuitively guiding the operator with a 7-inch color touchscreen display providing maintenance alerts, for all tasks that are not automated; and simplifying maintenance with automated cleaning and an innovative head cleaning jig that eliminates the need to manually maintain print head nozzles.
VITAS encourages garment manufacturers to divert to mask production
Vietnam Textile and Apparel Association (VITAS) is encouraging garment manufacturers to divert their production of face masks, to offset the fall in textile exports and foreign investment in the local supply chain. Vu Duc Diang, Chairman, VITAS says, though masks are small-ticket items, they have big export potential as they are becoming mandatory and ubiquitous around the world. Vietnamese textile makers are betting on mask production, assuming that global demand will be sustained because ending the pandemic will take time.
Another way Vietnamese companies can adapt to this new environment is by adopting new technologies. For example, Vietnamese textile companies are conducting entire business deals via WeChat, from introducing products, to negotiating prices, Giang said. The government can also lobby textile companies to clean up production, such as treating water that had been contaminated with dyes, said. Nguyen Thi Tuyet Mai, General Secretary, VITAS. According to her, a cleaner production process will allow more advanced manufacturers to set up in local industrial parks.
When textile and apparel companies regain their investment appetite, they will continue to move away from China, as well as Taiwan and South Korea, to save costs, Giang said. The pandemic is making global companies realize they need to diversify, including by shifting to Vietnam, he added.
Patagonia weaves a social message in its new range
Outdoor clothing company Patagonia is weaving a label with the message’ Vote the a-holes out’ in its shorts, reports CNBC. Through this tag, the company aims to encourage its customers to voice their concerns about the environment.
The California-based activist brand was encouraged to introduce this tag by the 100 wildfires that burn millions of acres across the West Coast, and a slew of lawsuits filed by towns and cities across the country accusing the oil and gas industry for its deceptive role in climate change. While some have dismissed Patagonia’s new tag as a marketing ploy others have appreciated the company for its longstanding social activism and hope the tag will ignite positive change. Many also see these as a dig at US President Donald Trump, who has repeatedly come under fire for his climate change denialism. However, Patagonia has denied that the tags are directed at Trump.
Forty four per cent UK fashion brands to introduce free delivery by 2021: Survey
A survey by retail and wholesale digital operations platform Brightpearl reveals, to win back online shoppers, 44 per cent of UK fashion brands plan to roll out free delivery services by 2021. Around 34 per cent of these brands plan to offer free returns while 25 per cent plan to launch Click & Collect services by next year. Another 56 per cent of UK’s retailers plan to switch retail focus to online over the next 12 months. They are boosting online services with one third of them offering free delivery, 22 per cent offering free returns and 23 per cent offering same- or next-day delivery — within next six months.
However, research showed 61 per cent consumers have experienced issues buying from brands online in the past 12 months alone, with the majority of problems related to issues with delivery and returns.
Textile Minster announces plans for Textile India Fair
At the Global Textile & Home Furnishing Expo organized by FICCI, Textile Minister Ravi Capoor announced government’s plans to organize -Textile India Fair- the world’s largest virtual textile fair featuring 5,000 sellers and 30,000 buyers from across the globe. Capoor said though India faces stiff competition in apparel, home furnishings and textiles sectors, it has the potential to double exports in two years. To achieve this, India needs to launch a huge outreach program that expands the country’s exports to new markets such as Japan, CIS and Latin America.
Capoor says, India has been receiving new textile orders. However, it needs to revamp its delivery style and schedules. From April-August, India’s exported $8.7 billion worth of cotton yarn, fabrics, made-ups, handloom products, man-made yarn, fabrics and made-ups, readymade garments, jute products, handicrafts and carpets, Capoor informed
Textile Excellence to launch vTexShow on September 21
The Indian textile industry is showing gradual signs of recovery. Indian garment exporters have begun getting sizeable orders from European and American buyers. China’s exports of apparel to Japan have improved in the last few months.
Retailers hope the festive season to release some of the pent up demand of the last few months. These retailers are increasingly using e-commerce and social media to attract buyers, and are also going to the consumers, as consumers hesitate to move to shopping centres & malls. These positive signals have encouraged Textile Excellence to launch vTexShow, a perfect platform for the industry to negotiate with clients, customers and peers.
Scheduled from September 21-26, 2020, vTexShow will being attended by leading exhibitors including AGS, Archroma, ATE Enterprises, Batliboi, Britacel, Colorjet, Datacolor, Dhanesh Weaving, GCL International, GOTS, Lakshmi Card Clothing, Rabatex, Saurer, Sitaram Spinners, SPGPrints, T4Texultants, Texfab, Texperts, etc. Besides, showcasing latest products, ATE Enterprises will also upgrade its legacy machines. While Archroma will use the platform to showcase its various environment-friendly solutions, and it’s latest anti-microbial finishes to the industry. Dhanesh Weaving will launch some of its most innovative hemp based textiles on the vTex platform. GOTS will ensure that the industry is offered the necessary services even during these times of lockdown.
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Kenya’s KBES develops new protocol for import of used clothes
As per a report by the Kohan Textile Journal, Kenya Bureau of Standards (KBES) has developed a new protocol for importers and dealers of used clothes. Developed in collaboration with the Ministry of Trade, the protocol mandates these importers and dealers to ensure their consignment is subjected to physical examination and certification.
The protocol also mandates used clothes and shoes to be cleaned and fumigated before baling. It directs each consignment to be packed in clear transparent and waterproof material.
Additionally, all importers and dealers need to be registered with KEBS and adhere to the COVID-19 prevention protocols issued by the Ministry of Health. A month ago, President Uhuru Kenyatta had directed Trade and Industrialization Cabinet Secretary, Betty Maina to establish acceptable protocols for lifting the ban on import of second hand clothes and footwear. According to Maina, the directive was aimed at safeguarding the health of Kenyans who regularly purchase second hand clothes. It was also meant to promote the local textile industries in the country during a period that has seen other sectors face challenges.
Heron Preston collaborates with Levi’s for new denim collection
Women’s Wear Daily (WWD) reports designer Heron Preston has collaborated with LevI’s for a new collection titled ‘Mistakes Are OK.’ The collection features four men’s and four women’s Levi’s Truckers and Levi’s 501s. The collection reworks each style to include ‘conscious aberrations’ like internal pockets designed to face outward, asymmetrical pockets, an upside down coin pocket, mismatched buttons and rivets, incorrectly cut back patches, raw seams, exposed linings and off-register resin prints are other signs of the intentional imperfections.
The aim is to encourage customers embrace their mistakes as they make things cool and interesting. It also includes Preston’s signature orange tags and Levi’s red tabs. The collection will be sold exclusively on Levi’s app. Last year, Preston had collaborated with Levi’s to celebrate its 501 Day on May 20, which marks the anniversary of the patent that the company received for rivets on its work pants. Born and raised in San Francisco, the designer has been an admirer of the brand since his teenage years.
Milano Unica registers 207 local and international exhibitors
The 31st edition of Milano Unica was attended by around 207 exhibitors, of which 171 were Italian and 36 were from other countries. Exhibitors showcased their collections of high-end fabrics and accessories for menswear, womenswear and childrenswear for the A/W 2021 season.
The trade show was attended by 2,400 companies from America, Japan, Britian, France, Switzerland and Germany. Inaugurated by Alessandro Barberis Canonico, President, Milano Unica, who said exceptionality of the moment in which the 31st edition of the Italian Textiles and Accessories Trade Show was been held. He thanked all exhibitors for their courage and determination to participate in the trade show.
Canonico urged attendees to adopt a long-term perspective and continue to invest in trade shows, keeping an eye on the future scenarios and the potential economic and commercial developments. He urged exhibitors to leverage on the pillars of creativity, innovation and digital sustainability with a new determination Massimo Mosiello, General Director thanked the Italian Ministry of Foreign Affairs and International Cooperation and the Italian Trade Agency for providing them with economic aid and essential support for the promotion on international markets.
Among the main novelties of the trade show was the development of e-MilanoUnica Connect in collaboration with Pitti Immagine, which made new omnichannel model available. The digital marketplace provides an opportunity for participating companies to offer virtual showrooms with different levels of accessibility.
More brand involvement and supplier coordination can help solve labor issues
Labor related issues are becoming routine in the global fashion world. As a report in Fashion Law points out, last year laborers in a Bangladesh garment factory went on a week-long strike to protest against their low wages. Before that, laborers in a Zara factory protested against non-payment of dues while Myanmar garment workers revolted against their employers’ non-observation of Thingyan, one of the largest and most widely celebrated holidays in the country. Luxury and high fashion brands too are not immune to labor unrest. In 2018, 100 laborers in Marc Jacobs, Coach and Michael Kors’ suppliers’ factories went on a strike to protest substandard working conditions while workers of Chanel’s Korean factory protested against their long working hours and low wages.
These are just a few examples of the growing unrest amongst garment workers against their exploitation. Brands that strive to find a solution to this issue are hindered by the current legal system. To eradicate labor exploitation completely, they need to take more control of their supply chains. However, this puts them at risk of tremendous legal liability.
Amend labor laws
Therefore, to bring about real change, the countries in which these brands are based, need to amend their current labor laws and reward brands for their
involvement in labor issues within supply chains.
Garment production has undergone tremendous evolution over the past few decades. A garment value chain now involves activities including designing, manufacturing, selling, and sometimes, even recycling. A brand is legally responsible for the actions of suppliers only if the supplier is directly employed by the brand. In a global value chain, most suppliers are hired as either contractors or subcontractors. This prevents them from being held accountable for their actions.
Improve supplier coordination
To protect workers’ rights, brands need to improve their coordination with suppliers and subsidiaries. They need to take control not only of their own suppliers but also of suppliers’ suppliers, and so on. This will help improve production efficiency, product quality control and manage brand reputation effectively.
As per current law, brands can rarely hold their suppliers accountable for violation of laws. If they try to control their supply chains, they risk losing legal defenses. Hence, to help brands stop worker exploitation in their supply chains, the industry needs to understand their financial and operational limitations and offer them new incentives to reform their operations.
