Fashion, if nothing else, takes social trends very seriously, even if it just for commercial success. Today, the well-entrenched gender-based fashion collections have blurred their lines as is evident from the red carpet displays and runways of prestigious fashion weeks in the last few years. The idea is to be non-binary and gender fluid and yet retain the semblance of masculine wear so the male consumer is not completely thrown off. To put the change into context is to hear the Grande Dame of fashion, Editor-in-Chief of Vogue, Anna Wintour. She doesn’t believe men and women should have separate rules when it comes to clothing. The boundary should cross over and be celebrated.
Goodbye collars and hello over shirts
Across the Spring/Summer 2024 runways, brands agreed that it’s time to ditch collars on outerwear, if only for one season. From Williams' Louis Vuitton to Zegna, collarless jackets reign in menswear. It’s lighter on the eye and enables a freer flow of the jacket. Another big trend is about the summer blazer being replaced by over shirt. The strong trend for sportswear and comfort has generated new qualities and models. The over shirt, also known as shacked (shirt jacket) is an icon of this style made of wide-repeat checks and plaids in a variety of colours ranging from classic to bright.
Italex forecasts bring ivory back
Trend forecasting style studio Italex is the go-to for fashion houses for colour and fabric trends. According to Italex, ivory is set to return as a key colour for menswear. Organic cotton, slubbed linen and kapok play the ivory theme in the delicate textures of shirt-weight jacquard braids for knitted shirts, geometric motif wool/linen jacquards in 3D effects, or cotton/kapok fil coupé broken ribs. Fil coupé linen/cotton with long fringes creates torn fabric effects which renew the ivory shirt. In another prediction, Italex predicts the return of grunge in menswear but in better aesthetics. Solid colours for the urban style of wool or cotton crinkled checks, narrow repeat lightweight jacquards in mis-dyed indigo colours, tie-dye effect classic stripes on piquet knits. It’s a deliberately dirty and worn-out look for the ever-present grunge style.
Another colour is taking centrestage with reputable fashion houses for Spring/ Summer ’24 is Kermit green. Inspired by all American icon ‘Kermit the Frog’, this green runs through the houses of Ralph Lauren Purple Label, Walter Van Beirendonck and more.
Carry-all cargo pockets
Cargo pockets are a recurring trend across both women’s wear and menswear, and the Spring/Summer ’24 collections confirm that's not changing anytime soon. The spacious pockets across baggy pants, jackets, shirts and even vests, courtesy of Prada, Hed Mayner, 1017 Alyx 9SM and many more are going to be all over next spring and summer as well.
Men’s soft trousers
Call it the lasting effects of quarantine dressing but soft pants that are most often seen featuring stretchy waistbands and made with plush fabrics are just as prevalent for Spring/Summer ’24 runways as the expected tailored trousers. They're paired with polished jackets (Kiton, MSGM, Brunello Cucinelli) and equally cozy tops (JW Anderson, Fendi, Marcelo Burlon) alike, to be comfy at any and all occasions.
Shredded and undone
That undone look is reimagined but more over the top this time as if clothes have been put through a shredder for Spring Summer 2024 in menswear. Dsquared2, Rains, Andersson Bell and others endorse a little bit of destruction in our wardrobes, particularly in the jeans and tails of over-sized over shirts.
