FW
Salvatore Ferragamo CEO Marco Gobbetti, former Burberry chief, will step down on March 6 after three years, failing to revive sales at the luxury brand. Chairman Leonardo Ferragamo will assume executive duties until a successor is found.
Gobbetti, who joined in 2022, aimed to modernize Ferragamo but faced challenges amid slowing global luxury demand, particularly in Asia. The brand reported an 8.2 per cent revenue drop in 2024, with Asian sales plunging 19 per cent.
Gobbetti will receive a €4.5 million exit package after waiving his 2024 bonus. Ferragamo’s advisory committee, including former CEO Michele Norsa, will assist in leadership transition.
The family, which owns 54.3 per cent of the company, has repeatedly dismissed sale rumors despite years of struggles. Ferragamo’s stock has fallen two-thirds since Gobbetti took over.
The global textile industry faces a growing dilemma: how to reduce its heavy reliance on fossil-based synthetic fibres, which dominate the market. Between 1960 and 2023, textile fibre demand surged by 650 per cent, with synthetic fibres increasing from 3 per cent of the market to 68 per cent. While synthetic fibres revolutionized production, lowering costs and introducing new properties, they come with serious sustainability concerns, particularly the rising carbon footprint and the microplastic crisis.
One solution lies in renewable carbon sources, especially biomass, carbon dioxide, and recycling, which reduce dependence on fossil fuels. However, the shift is complex. Cotton production remains limited by factors like irrigation and pesticide use, while bast fibres such as jute and hemp could play a larger role but face high processing costs.
Despite these challenges, man-made cellulosic fibres (MMCFs), like viscose and lyocell, have shown significant growth, with their production expected to rise to 11 million tonnes by 2030. These fibres, derived from wood or agricultural waste, are bio-based and biodegradable, offering a promising alternative for the industry’s future.
Additionally, the rise of biosynthetics bio-based synthetic fibres like PLA and PTT offers another avenue, though their current market share is still below 0.5 per cent. The development of carbon dioxide-based fibres holds potential but is still in its infancy.
Circular economy principles, particularly fibre-to-fibre recycling, are essential for the sustainable textile future. The recycling rate of textiles remains low, but advances are being made to improve collection, processing, and the scalability of recycling technologies. The future of textiles will rely on a blend of cotton, cellulose fibres, biosynthetics, and robust recycling systems to reduce reliance on fossil-based materials, with the goal of replacing most synthetic fibres by 2050.
Gucci has announced the departure of Creative Director Sabato De Sarno. His final contribution will be the Fall-Winter 2025 show in Milan on February 25, which will be presented by the Gucci design office. The luxury house will reveal its new Artistic Direction in due course.
Gucci CEO Stefano Cantino expressed gratitude for De Sarno’s dedication, highlighting his respect for the brand’s craftsmanship and heritage. Francesca Bellettini, Kering’s Deputy CEO for Brand Development, also thanked De Sarno for his professionalism, emphasizing the progress made in strengthening Gucci’s foundations. She affirmed that Cantino and the upcoming Artistic Direction will continue driving the brand’s fashion leadership and sustainable growth.
De Sarno joined Gucci in 2023, introducing a minimalist aesthetic after the departure of Alessandro Michele. His exit marks another leadership change at the iconic fashion house as it navigates evolving industry trends.
Metamorphosis project strengthens digital transformation
Turkey’s apparel industry has taken a significant step forward with the completion of the “From Design to Production: Digital Transformation in the Apparel Industry (metamorphosis)” project, led by the Istanbul Apparel Exporters Association (IHKIB) under the EU’s Instrument for Pre-Accession Assistance (IPA-2) program.
Speaking at the closing event, Mustafa Paşahan emphasized the industry’s resilience despite cyclical challenges. “We take a long-term perspective. Apparel will remain crucial for the Turkish economy for years to come. With this awareness, we are building an infrastructure that strengthens our position in global trade,” he said.
The project secured €10.4 million in EU funding and focused on analyzing the apparel and textile sectors, developing a Digital Transformation Roadmap, and training SMEs. More than 100 SMEs benefited from digital transformation and social compliance consultancy services, while 125 SME representatives received Digital Fashion Design Training. Additionally, 60 companies underwent a Digital Maturity Assessment to enhance operational efficiency.
Investment in green and branded production
Highlighting the need for value-added production, Paşahan stated, “The price-focused competition model is fading. Instead, we must focus on design, innovation, and branding.” Turkey’s apparel brands already have over 3,000 stores across 100 countries. However, he stressed that digital and green transformation often referred to as the twin transition—will shape the sector’s future.
The European Union’s total grant support for Turkey’s textile and apparel sector has now reached €37 million, contributing to digitalization, sustainability, and brand development. Among upcoming initiatives, a ‘Carbon Footprint Monitoring and Reduction’ project will be launched to align with the EU Green Deal. IHKIB has also secured funding under the European Digital Innovation Hubs Program, further supporting technological advancements in the industry.
Turkey’s competitive sectors program utilizes €500 million in EU funds
Deputy Minister of Industry and Technology Zekeriya Coştu highlighted Turkey’s long-standing collaboration with the EU under the IPA framework. “Since 2007, we have utilized IPA funds to enhance institutional and commercial capacities. In the first phase of the Competitive Sectors Program, we allocated €500 million-€400 million from the EU and €100 million from our national budget to 46 projects focused on regional development,” he said.
The ongoing IPA-2 phase, with a budget of €260 million, supports R&D, digital transformation, and green initiatives across 23 provinces. “Our goal is to create a more technology-driven, efficient, and competitive ecosystem,” Coştu stated. “The Metamorphosis project, a key part of this initiative, will enhance SMEs’ compliance with international standards and promote environmentally friendly production.”
Jurgis Vilcinskas, Deputy Head of the EU Delegation to Turkey, reaffirmed the EU’s commitment to supporting Turkey’s textile and apparel transformation. “Since 2007, the EU has invested €780 million to enhance Turkey’s industrial competitiveness and innovation. Our collaboration with IHKIB continues to evolve, fostering digitalization and sustainability in the sector,” he said. This partnership underscores the importance of Turkey-EU cooperation in shaping a greener and more innovative future for the apparel industry.
To be organized in partnership with UKFT in Brussels, Belgium from June 4-5, 2025, the debut edition of Textiles Recycling Expo aims to establish a key platform for innovation, partnership, and education within the textile recycling sector.
The exhibition will gather global specialists in textiles, recycling, waste management, manufacturing, clothing supply chains, and retail. The event will also feature a comprehensive conference with expert speakers and showcase innovative exhibitors such as AIMPLAS, Andtritz, Stadler, Picvisa, Redwave, and Valvan.
Organized by leading organizer of international exhibitions and conferences for the recycling market, AMI, the Textiles Recycling Expo is supported by prominent associations including EuRIC, Fedustria, ReHubs, ASTRI, and the Textiles Recycling Association. Attendees of the expo will network with leading suppliers, explore the latest technologies and innovations, and engage with industry experts in a collaborative setting.
Recognizing the textile industry's substantial contribution to global waste, UKFT is committed to expanding its impact by supporting initiatives that prolong the life of textiles and promote a circular economy model. The organization’s prior work with ACT UK (Automatic-sorting for Circularity in Textiles) and CFIN (Circular Fashion Innovation Network) has created a solid foundation for advancing circularity within the UK fashion and textile industries. Its partnership with the Textiles Recycling Expo allows UKFT to further this progress, strengthening connections between industry participants, policymakers, and sustainability advocates.
To be organized in partnership with UKFT in Brussels, Belgium from June 4-5, 2025, the debut edition of Textiles Recycling Expo aims to establish a key platform for innovation, partnership, and education within the textile recycling sector.
The exhibition will gather global specialists in textiles, recycling, waste management, manufacturing, clothing supply chains, and retail. The event will also feature a comprehensive conference with expert speakers and showcase innovative exhibitors such as AIMPLAS, Andtritz, Stadler, Picvisa, Redwave, and Valvan.
Organized by leading organizer of international exhibitions and conferences for the recycling market, AMI, the Textiles Recycling Expo is supported by prominent associations including EuRIC, Fedustria, ReHubs, ASTRI, and the Textiles Recycling Association. Attendees of the expo will network with leading suppliers, explore the latest technologies and innovations, and engage with industry experts in a collaborative setting.
Recognizing the textile industry's substantial contribution to global waste, UKFT is committed to expanding its impact by supporting initiatives that prolong the life of textiles and promote a circular economy model. The organization’s prior work with ACT UK (Automatic-sorting for Circularity in Textiles) and CFIN (Circular Fashion Innovation Network) has created a solid foundation for advancing circularity within the UK fashion and textile industries. Its partnership with the Textiles Recycling Expo allows UKFT to further this progress, strengthening connections between industry participants, policymakers, and sustainability advocates.
During its recent visit to the headquarters of All Pakistan Textile Mills Association (APTMA), A high-level delegation from the International Cotton Advisory Committee (ICAC), led by Eric Trachtenberg, Executive Director discussed the state of Pakistan's cotton and textile value chain.
The delegation met with APTMA leaders and representatives from the Pakistan Central Cotton Committee (PCCC), including Shahid Sattar, Secretary General, APTMA; Kanwar Usman, Head-Textiles,ICAC; Dr Yousaf Zafar, Vice President, PCCC and Dr. Ahmad Waqas. PCCC). Their discussions focused on the challenges and opportunities facing Pakistan's cotton and textile sectors.
Sattar highlighted critical issues plaguing the cotton value chain, particularly the detrimental impact of the 18 per cent General Sales Tax (GST) on domestic cotton supply. He argued, GST has led to significant decline in Pakistan’s cotton production, undermining the competitiveness of local spinning and weaving industries. A great disparity exists between domestic inputs which are subject to 18 per cent sales tax and imports under the Export Facilitation Scheme (EFS) which are available duty-free and sales tax-free, he argued.
Exporters using local inputs face sales tax refund delays exceeding six months and receive only 70 per cent refunds, resulting in significant financial losses, job losses, and depletion of foreign exchange reserves, stated Sattar. EFS imports of cotton, yarn, and other intermediate inputs should be subject to the same sales tax regime as local products, he urged. He also recommended restoring the EFS to its June 2024 structure and adopting India's model of graduated sales tax rates.
Trachtenberg reiterated ICAC's commitment to supporting Pakistan's textile industry through informed policymaking. He announced ICAC's plan to publish a policy paper addressing these challenges and offering strategic recommendations.
Usman emphasized on the role of the Ministry of Commerce in resolving these issues to boost textile exports and support Pakistani cotton farmers. Comparing these with Bangladesh, he noted similar challenges and ICAC's active support for member countries, including Pakistan, in navigating these difficulties.
Praising APTMA's role in promoting textile exports, the delegation expressed an interest in publishing a report on Pakistan's cotton supply chain. Both organizations agreed, reviving the cotton crop is crucial for Pakistan's sustainable economic growth. The meeting concluded with a shared commitment to safeguarding the livelihoods of millions connected to Pakistan's cotton value chain and textile industry.
The United States Postal Service (USPS) has temporarily halted incoming international parcels from China and Hong Kong, effective immediately. While USPS has not officially linked the move to recent trade measures, it follows President Donald Trump’s order ending the de minimis exemption for duty-free imports under $800.
The policy change, which also imposes a 10 per cent tariff on Chinese imports, aims to curb illicit goods and address trade imbalances. The stricter regulations mean all parcels will now face detailed inspections and tariffs, potentially delaying shipments.
E-commerce giants like Shein and Temu, which benefited from the previous exemption, may struggle with rising costs and logistical challenges. FedEx and UPS have warned of possible disruptions. Customs and Border Protection, already stretched thin, faces added strain in handling increased inspections. American shoppers relying on low-cost goods from China may see higher prices and longer delivery times.
Fueled by an increased through online platforms, smaller Indian cities are experiencing a surge in luxury shopping, indicates a report by Tata Cliq Luxury.
There has been a significant growth in luxury shopping towns such as Botad and Asansol with purchases of high-end footwear, watches, clothing and accessories rising, shows the report. This trend signifies a shift away from the traditional dominance of luxury shopping in major metropolitan areas, it adds.
As per industry analysts, luxury is no longer exclusive to the very wealthy, with customers from Tier II and III cities and emerging areas within metros driving a ‘radical reboot’ of the industry.
The report emphasizes the growing influence of the ‘Henry’ (high earners, not rich yet) consumer group - working professionals with rising incomes who are increasingly interested in luxury goods and experiences.
Generating 55 per cent of its sales from non-metro areas, Tata Cliq Luxury confirms this trend. According to Gopal Asthana, CEO, actively seeking luxury experiences and goods, this cohort is driving significant sales increases in beauty, accessories, apparel, and footwear, with order values comparable to metro consumers. Industry experts observe, luxury customer base is evolving to include professionals in smaller cities, not just established wealthy individuals.
Luxury brands, including international names like Bvlgari, are leveraging online platforms to reach these new markets. E-commerce platforms like Ajio Luxe are helping brands overcome the limited physical store presence in smaller towns. The report also highlights rising demand for luxury items beyond fashion and jewelry, such as art, partly influenced by social media.
These new luxury consumers are more informed and conduct research before purchasing. They utilize knowledge from social media, websites, and customer reviews to make informed choices. Tata Cliq Luxury data shows, these customers typically browse six to seven brands before making a purchase, regardless of the product category.
Looking forward, analysts predict, Gen Z and Gen Alpha will become the primary target market for luxury brands. These generations are expected to drive the pre-owned luxury market, favor a blended online and in-person shopping experience, and demand greater transparency from brands.
Chaired by Textile Secretary, Ministry of Textiles under the National Textiles Mission, the 10th Empowered Program Committee (EPC) approved a grant of approx Rs 50 lakh each for four Start-Ups under the ‘Grant for Research & Entrepreneurship across Aspiring Innovators in Technical Textiles (GREAT)’ scheme. The approved Start-Up projects focus on key strategic areas of Medical Textiles, Industrial Textiles and Protective Textiles.
The committee has also approved a grant of approx Rs 6.5 crore to three educational institutes to introduce courses in Technical Textiles under the ‘General Guidelines for Enabling of Academic Institutes in Technical Textiles’. IIT Indore and NIT Patna are amongst the list of approved institutes. These institutes will introduce courses in Geotextiles, Geosynthetics, Protective Textiles, Sports Textiles etc. in their e curriculum.
Further, the committee has also approved 12 skill development courses across Medical textiles, Protective Textiles, Mobile Textiles and Agriculture Textiles fields. The courses were developed by three textile research associations; namely, SITRA, NITRA and SASMIRA and aim to provide training to all focus groups of the technical textiles value chain.
