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A new chapter for the global fashion and textile industry will be written, with the new India-UK Free Trade Agreement (FTA) serving as the pen. Industry leaders and government officials from India, meeting at a high-profile roundtable in London in September 2025, expressed overwhelming confidence that the deal will not only bolster bilateral trade but also position the two nations as a manufacturing powerhouse for the world.
The FTA, which was concluded in July and is expected to be operational by the end of India's current financial year, is a "gateway to all of this," according to Vikram Doraiswami, the High Commissioner of India to the UK. He highlighted India's unique position as one of the only countries in the world with a complete, end-to-end textile value chain, from "the growth of cotton right up to the finished product."
This comprehensive capability, combined with a youthful and vast workforce, makes India an unmissable partner for the UK and the global market. "I would say there is no choice. It's just that you are delaying this decision," opies Shubhra Agarwal, a trade advisor from Ministry of Textiles.
A partnership for global ambition
The ambition of the new agreement extends far beyond simple bilateral trade. Doraiswami emphasized the potential for the two nations to become "partners for the global market" and even for the "totality of the opportunity in the European continent." He sees a clear synergy, with the UK's innovation and design prowess a "place in which a lot of this innovation takes place," complementing India's manufacturing strength. This partnership could see new collaborations in high-end fashion, sustainable materials, and the rapidly growing sportswear and athleisure sectors.
Sudhir Sekhri, Chairman, Apparel Export Promotion Council (AEPC), is bullish on the immediate impact. He predicts that India’s textile and apparel exports to the UK will grow at least two and a half times within the next three years, making India the UK’s second-largest supplier. Sekhri also notes that the swift implementation of the agreement is now in the hands of UK buyers, who must pressure their government for timely approval.
Focus on sustainability, technology, and traceability
The roundtable also underscored India's commitment to modern, sustainable, and transparent manufacturing practices, which align with the demands of major UK retailers like Primark, ASOS, and Boohoo. The Indian government has launched several initiatives to support this transformation.
For example the Production Linked Incentives (PLI) scheme, program is designed to attract investments in high-value man-made fibers (MMF), apparel, and technical textiles, ensuring the industry evolves with global demands. The PM-MITRA scheme an initiative to create seven mega textile parks across India, providing world-class infrastructure to streamline production and foster innovation.
Then there is the traceability blockchain system by the Cotton Textiles Export Promotion Council (TEXPROCIL). It is a groundbreaking blockchain system that allows end-to-end traceability of cotton, from the farm to the final product. Siddhartha Rajagopal, TEXPROCIL's Executive Director, claims this indigenously developed platform is a world-first, providing real-time data and rigorous testing to ensure authenticity. Vijay Kumar Agarwal, Chairman of TEXPROCIL, highlighted the system, noting it "can trace which farm the cotton has come from, right up to which factory has produced the final product."
Domestic and global growth
Beyond exports, panelists also pointed to the immense potential of India’s domestic fashion market. India’s high commissioner Doraiswami noted that the market, projected to be worth $250 billion by 2030, presents a "considerable" opportunity for UK manufacturers to partner with Indian businesses. The rapid growth of both high-end and fast fashion segments in India, along with the exponential rise of e-commerce, is transforming the retail landscape across the country. Neelam Shami Rao, Secretary, Ministry of Textiles, emphasized the critical role of technology in achieving India's ambitious target of $100 billion in textile exports by 2030. She cited tools like VisioNxt, a smart forecasting tool developed by the National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT) that uses intelligent modeling to predict future trends, colors, and designs.
The consensus from the London roundtable was clear: the India-UK FTA is more than a trade deal. It is a strategic partnership designed to leverage the unique strengths of both nations, driving growth, innovation, and sustainability in the global fashion sector for years to come.
The Dhaka International Textile and Apparel Expo-2025 (DTA Expo 2025) commenced at the Bangladesh-China Friendship Conference Center (BCFCC), marking a key event to accelerate growth and showcase global innovation in the ready-made garment (RMG) sector.
Organized by Eco Expo, the three-day exhibition was inaugurated by Mohammad Hatem, President, BKMEA. A number of industry leaders attended as special guests, including Nipa Jannat, Director, BGBA and EBFCI and Masoodar Rahman, President, BGMEA.
This year's DTA Expo is one of the largest international textile and apparel platforms in Bangladesh, featuring over 750 exhibitors from more than 15 countries across 60 stalls. Leading manufacturers from China, India, and Pakistan are showcasing cutting-edge machinery, sustainable fabrics, smart apparel technologies, and innovative solutions.
The expo premises were bustling from day one, with visitors generating new business connections and partnerships among local and international entrepreneurs.
Industry representatives highlighted the expo's potential for greater collaboration. A representative from Pakistan’s Unicorn International noted, the shipping cost from Pakistan to Bangladesh is relatively high. If a direct trade route can be opened, investment and business opportunities will expand significantly.
Chinese company, Li Ha affirmed, the expo will ‘further strengthen’ China's already substantial investment relationship with the Bangladeshi market.
Visitors were impressed by the level of technology on display. Habibur Islam avered, the fair gives a clear picture of where Bangladesh stands in the global market Another visitor, Chaiti Ghosh, added, the fair is beautifully organized. and will open a new horizon for Bangladesh apparel industry.
The RMG sector remains a cornerstone of Bangladesh’s economy, with export earnings having reached $50 billion by the end of 2024.
Rezwanur Rahman, CEO, Eco Expo, stated, the fair helps Bangladesh connect with global standards and open new pathways for sustainable growth. The DTA Expo 2025 runs daily through October 11, 2025.
Karl Mayer plans to present two brand-new, state-of-the-art tricot machines at ITMA ASIA + CITME 2025. These machines were developed to meet the core demands of the textile industry: maximum productivity, superior precision, and uncompromising efficiency.
Headlining the launch is a new 2-bar tricot machine specifically designed for elastic fabrics. This machine is being hailed by the company as unbeatable in terms of output and speed, making it more productive than any model that has come before it.
The machine's completely new concept also delivers additional customer benefits, including greater energy efficiency and reduced handling effort
Karl Mayer is also launching a new 4-bar tricot machine aimed directly at satisfying the demands of price-sensitive fashion markets.
This newcomer is positioned as a true brand product that stands out for its extremely attractive price-performance ratio. This makes it particularly appealing to manufacturers of popular, trendy clothing items, such as those made with seersucker fabrics.
The Italian fashion powerhouse Benetton has undertaken a sweeping corporate reorganization aimed at optimizing its relaunch and achieving profitability by 2026 or 2027. This reorganization marks the end of the first phase of the plan led by new Claudio Sforza, CEO who took over in June 2024.
According to internal documents cited by Italian financial daily MF-Milano Finanza, Benetton established seven new companies - or ‘newcos’ - all based at its Castrette corporate hub. Following a complex double demerger and spin-off operation, the group's assets and corporate functions have been divided among these entities, which will become operational in January.
The core company, Benetton Group, is now the coordinating holding company, retaining final authority over financial, legal, and auditing decisions. It directly controls five new operational units: Green 347, Benetton Operations, Benetton Distribution, Benetton Logistics, and Benetton E-commerce.
Under the group has jettisoned its traditional vertically integrated business model through significant operational changes including closing of production sites in Tunisia, Serbia and Croatia, reduction in global employee count from 1,100 in mid-2024 to approximately 700 by the end of 2025, aided by voluntary separation incentives and shutting of approximately 500 unprofitable stores worldwide, bringing the group’s total retail network to nearly 3,000 locations.
The reorganization assigns clear functions to the new leadership: Benetton Operations (led by Vincenzo Meles) handles design and marketing; Benetton Distribution (Nicola Capone) oversees retail and franchising; and Benetton E-commerce manages online sales.
The goal of this reorganization is aggressive loss reduction; after cutting losses by more than 57 per cent to €100 million in 2024, Benetton aims to return to profit within the next two years - a pivotal moment as the brand prepares to celebrate its 60th anniversary in 2025.
A complete system supplier known for its leading technologies in continuous wet processing, discontinuous dyeing, and technical textiles, Benninger is set to showcase its latest innovations at ITMA Asia + CITME 2025. Headlining their presentation will be the brand-new SingeRay singeing machine, specifically engineered for knitwear, alongside proven solutions from their extensive portfolio.
The Benninger SingeRay offers knitwear manufacturers a superior method for fabric upgrading, effectively eliminating the need for biopolishing. Singeing is a highly precise process that removes only the unwanted short fibers. Compared to biopolishing, the resulting weight loss is significantly lower, which increases the amount of input converted into saleable fabric and reduces the overall environmental footprint.
The SingeRay is built for efficiency and high output, boasting a production capacity of up to 30 tons per day. It is equipped with two burners and advanced silicon carbide burning chambers that ensure complete gas combustion at a constant temperature, supported by four cooling channels. The adjustable flame width further guarantees low gas consumption. Furthermore, dust is safely managed and separated using a wet deduster.
Benninger will also highlight key advancements across its dyeing machinery. The company has developed the fastest, most versatile, and most economical jet dyeing machine in the industry, the FabricMaster, which dramatically shortens process times. Engineered with a passion for perfect fabric quality, the FabricMaster allows for the production of the widest range of fabrics at the lowest cost while achieving unmatched water consumption levels. This system represents a breakthrough in discontinuous dyeing, combining outstanding features for safe fabric transport, smooth liquor transfer, high rope speeds, and shorter cycle times.
The cold pad batch (CPB) dyeing process is the only method that allows for salt-free dyeing without additional energy input, making it increasingly popular, especially in tropical and subtropical regions. Benninger has optimized its CPB systems for these climatic conditions, with the Benninger Küsters DyePad at its core.
Benninger is the only textile machinery manufacturer with expertise in the original S-roller technology, which is critical for ensuring consistently even dyeing across the entire fabric width. The CPB system's key advantages—including flexibility, dramatically improved accessibility for the new knit version, high reproducibility, and ease of operation—make it a trusted, low-investment solution for the full spectrum of open-width dyeing with reactive dyestuffs.
In the intricate, interconnected world of global apparel, tariffs are not just a line item on an invoice—they are, in the words of Cem Altan, "killers of the industry." The President of the International Apparel Federation (IAF), speaking exclusively with FashionatingWorld, delivered a stark warning about the rising tide of protectionist trade policies and their destabilizing effects on the global supply chain.
For Altan, the ideal of "free, open" global trade is a fundamental principle being eroded by the unpredictable, unilateral actions of governments. This isn't a new phenomenon. Historically, U.S. trade policy has swung between protectionism and liberalization, with periods like the Smoot-Hawley Tariff Act of 1930 that epitomized trade restriction. The current policies, particularly recent U.S. tariff announcements, have been implemented "too quickly without negotiating" and with little warning, leading to a climate of crippling uncertainty that makes long-term planning impossible for suppliers.
The human cost of uncertainty
"This is the biggest problem, uncertainty," Altan emphasized. The apparel and textile industry, with its razor-thin margins and intense competition, requires continuous investment to keep up with rapid changes in digitalization and regulation. When suppliers cannot see what the future holds, they hesitate to invest, a delay that ultimately hurts the entire supply chain.
The consequences, Altan noted, are far-reaching and deeply human. As manufacturers are squeezed by high tariffs and an inability to invest, they are forced to make difficult decisions. The financial pressure from brands, who do not want to absorb the new costs, is often passed down to suppliers. Without any "room to give them any more discount," manufacturers are left in a holding pattern. This waiting game leads to a devastating outcome: job losses. "Millions of millions of workers and companies lay out of work," Altan lamented, highlighting how political decisions can cripple the economies of entire countries.
The ‘Paradox of Protectionism’
Ironically, while these tariffs are intended to protect domestic industries, they are not having the desired effect on all fronts. Altan offered a paradoxical observation: while the U.S. has engaged in a trade war with China, the Chinese industry is proving to be exceptionally resilient. "China is very smart," Altan noted. Instead of losing business, Chinese companies are simply diversifying their production to other countries that have more favorable trade agreements, such as Cambodia, Vietnam, and ASEAN countries.
"Sustainable Terms of Trade Initiative" (STTI): A a crucial tool to protect manufacturers
In this volatile environment, Altan stresses the vital role of the IAF. He highlighted the organization's "Sustainable Terms of Trade Initiative" (STTI) as a crucial tool for protecting manufacturers. This initiative seeks to establish clear, fair contractual terms that prevent brands from abruptly canceling orders or reducing prices. By pushing for international regulations and educating its members, the IAF is fighting to bring a semblance of stability to an industry plagued by political whims.
The interview made it clear that tariffs are not just an economic issue; they are a human issue. They create instability, hinder innovation, and lead to job losses, all while failing to fully achieve their stated protectionist goals. For Cem Altan, the message is simple: a healthy global fashion industry requires collaboration, not confrontation, and a commitment to free and open trade that benefits everyone.
American denim and lifestyle brand Wrangler has launched a new headwear collection through a multi-year licensing agreement with headwear innovation lab, CapX.
A part of Wrangler's strategic effort to evolve into a broader cross-category lifestyle brand, the agreement leverages CapX's advanced design and manufacturing capabilities. The first collection is set to be launched this month
The collection is being designed to reflect Wrangler's denim heritage. It features distinctive elements such as the iconic 'W' stitching, copper hardware, and leather patches sourced from the same suppliers used for their jeans.
Each of the caps in this collection features a model number printed inside the lining. This number corresponds to one of over 45 standardized shapes developed by CapX, aiming to educate consumers on specific fit and structure and make it easier for them to find similar styles they love in the future.
The collection is designed to complement the lifestyle of the core Wrangler consumer - one who values quality, comfort, and character in their everyday essentials.
Viewing headwear Wrangler sees a significant opportunity to reach a broader audience in new ways. The company blends their long history of American style with CapX's innovation and standardized approach to fit.
The winners of the ITMF Start-up Awards 2025 will showcase their innovative business models at the upcoming ITMF & IAF Conference 2025. The conference will be held from October 24–25 in Yogyakarta, Indonesia, and co-hosted by the Indonesia Textile Industry Association (API).
The ITMF Start-up Awards aim to give emerging companies a platform to present their groundbreaking ideas and offer them the chance to meet in person with established players from across the entire textile value chain.
The five winners of the ITMF Start-up Award 2025 include Ambercycle (US), aweXome Ray (Korea), Byborre (Netherlands), Silana (Austria) and ZymoChem (US).
Global leader in sustainable technologies for the textile industry, Jeanologia will showcase its new denim collection titled, ‘Mediterranean Soul’ during a press tour tour at Kingpins Amsterdam.
The collection blends Mediterranean inspiration, creativity, and sustainability to showcase the future of denim.
The press tour will showcase how the combination of Laser and G2 Indra technologies enables hyper realistic finishes while protecting the planet and workers. It will also highlight the eDesigner platform, which connects digital design to real production, accelerating processes and reducing the need for physical samples.
The press tour will include live demonstrations, as well as opportunities to interview Jeanologia’s representatives.'
Global initiative dedicated to accelerating the use of post-consumer recycled cotton (POCR), Denim Deal will launch three new collections at this year’s edition of Kingpins Amsterdam. These collections prove, circular denim isn't just a goal but is ready to wear, ready to scale, and designed for every brand to easily adopt.
The new initiative, called The Denim Deal Collection: Designed to Simplify. Built to Prove., moves beyond simply showcasing members to actively co-creating ready-to-use collections. It includes the EMEA Hub Collection comprising nineteen garments, developed with partners including Dorlet, Sharabati, Kipas, Ereks Blue Matters, and PDNA. These garments highlight high-quality circular denim with a focus on cutting-edge design and full traceability.
The collection features removable branded buttons by Dorlet, fully integrated green production by Ereks, and PDNA’s platform, which verifies supply chain data and links it directly to each garment through a Digital Product Passport (DPP). This collection is a clear blueprint for making circularity visible and wearable.
Twp separate collections spearheaded by the Denim Deal India Hub will be launched integrating digital product passports, Product Environmental Footprint (PEF) powered by Green Story, POCR cotton, and advanced green wash technology.
Produced by Raymond UCO, the first collection will be featured at Kingpins while the second collection, produced by Bhaskar Denim, will be unveiled during their week-long Denim Deal show.
Both collections, created by Recyclr in collaboration with Jeanologia and Green Story, showcase the power of global hubs to create scalable, tailored solutions across different regions.
Both these collections provide brands with ready-made compliance solutions, and demonstrate what the entire denim ecosystem can achieve when it collaborates.
The Denim Deal plans to continue launching new collections showcasing different members, innovations, and increasing complexity, aiming for their ambitious goal: one billion pairs of jeans made with at least 20 per cent post-consumer recycled cotton by 2030. Brands ready to skip the complexity and scale circularity are invited to join now.
