FW
Texworld Apparel Sourcing will be held in France from September 18 to 21, 2017. This is one of the world’s leading fabrics and apparel exhibitions. Texworld Apparel Sourcing is France’s biggest apparel sourcing fair. It has pavilions for countries like Bangladesh, India, Sri Lanka, Pakistan, Vietnam, China, Ethiopia, among a host of others.
No other fair provides this wide a choice. Purchasers and visitors will be arriving from UK and the European Union countries. Texworld features international manufacturers specialising in fabrics, trimmings and accessories. Over 100 exhibitors will be coming to Texworld to attend the show for the very first time.
There will be a new segment in this edition, Texworld Denim. It will assemble 80 textile and clothing exhibitors who are experts in denim. Planned around a concept for stands that are easier to view and are variable in size, this new segment will have a new trends forum and a social village enlivened by a diverse program of meetings and presentations.
A series of lectures about latest developments in the sector, news from exhibitors, catwalk shows and the trends forum go to make up a varied and imaginative program. Over 1530 exhibitors from 110 countries took part in the exhibition in 2016. The range of sourcing countries included UK, France, Turkey, Spain, Italy and Germany.
Over the last four years, raw silk production in India has increased but we are yet to become self-sufficient on account of growing demand for silk products. Raw silk production saw an increase of 30,348 tonnes during 2016-17 from 28,523 tonnes as compared to 2016 previous after a marginal slump in production during 2015-16.
The country continues to import no less than 6,000 tonnes of silk every year from China while the government’s ambition to become self-supporting in production remains unfulfilled. Central Silk Board (CSB) chairman K M Hanumantharayappa says demand (for silk) continues to grow every year.
The demand for silk products particularly saris and readymade garments are also increasing. Due to promotion of sericulture in the country, a number of organised players had set up modern silk goods production units. Till a few years ago, most weavers preferred Chinese silk for its superior quality and would use imported silk along with indigenous silk. In terms of quality there is no need of imported silk in terms of quality. Production of bivoltine silk has increased in recent times to constitute 25 per cent of the mulberry silk variety produced in India. According to the Central Sericultural Research and Training Institute (CSR&TI) Bivoltine silk is as good if not better than imported silk.
The difference between imported and indigenous silk was not much even after decrease in import duty. As per the (CSR&TI) if imported silk is available to weavers for Rs 3,500 a kg, indigenous silk is available for Rs 3,200.
Caprolactam (CPL) supply in China increased rapidly as the average operation rate of CPL plants rebounded to a high level. CPL and nylon 6 CS chip markets began to dip from August 10. Nylon 6 HS chip and nylon 6 filament markets did not follow the downtrend, but prices are bound to decline later as downstream purchases reduce.
The average operation rate of CPL plants rebounded from 58 per cent to 70 per cent rapidly by end-July. Shandong Haili and Lubao’s units also restarted in August. Meanwhile, Nanjing Fibrant, Tianchen Yaolong and Risun’s units also recovered running at full capacity or at 90 per cent. As a result, the average operation rate increased to 84 per cent.
Besides, with expectations of a bearish market, downstream plants would only lower and not increase operation rates. Therefore, CPL supply may be in surplus while demand would stay weak, which is bound to suppress CPL prices.
Nylon 6 textile filament plants are behaving more cautiously at present. As a whole, CPL supply is large while downstream demand is weak, so nylon markets would keep slipping up short. But the turning point may come when downstream demand rebounds in the traditional peak season and feedstock prices reach the bottom line.
The Chinese polyester market strongly pushed up in July, a typical slack season, which triggered downstream rejection. Meanwhile, scorching weather slowed down momentum. End-user demand seems strong but strength has weakened from July levels. This round of stock build-up by end-users is on the premise of low-pricing plus the spur of possible stricter environmental regulation.
Purchasing strength is restrained, reflecting a downstream cautious mood.
However, environmental protection issue has created a big uncertainty in the market. In the knitting and weaving sector, water jet looms that generate more pollution may get impacted. Shaoxing is a major region but affected looms are limited since the region mainly focuses on circular knitting. As for printing and dyeing, Shaoxing has been rectified intensively during G20 last year, which looks quite effective.
The polyester sales ratio continued to be low in early August, putting producers under stock pressure. Plants then cut price to promote sales, but downstream has not budged. In all, the polyester market in August has revived somewhat from end-July. Initially the market is likely to fluctuate, but environmental regulation as a big uncertainty plus the psychological effect may interact and give the market a chance to rebound around September.
Shanghai Tex will be held in China from November 27 to 30, 2017. It will focus on sports knitting technologies that create high performance sportswear for sports lovers.
The sports arena will look into three hot topics: sports bra, wearable technology and shoe technology. 3D printing innovator Materialise will display 3D printing technology. Sports Arena will attract professionals from different fields such as shoe uppers, soles, 3D printing and smart technology to explore the latest sports shoes developments and trends. Issues of comfort, support, shoulder strap design and function remain the main challenges in sports bra production. Exports on the intimate apparel industry will address both theoretical and practical matters in various bra issues.
Shanghai Tex will be held in China from November 27 to 30, 2017. It will focus on sports knitting technologies that create high performance sportswear for sports lovers.
The sports arena will look into three hot topics: sports bra, wearable technology and shoe technology. 3D printing innovator Materialise will display 3D printing technology. Sports Arena will attract professionals from different fields such as shoe uppers, soles, 3D printing and smart technology to explore the latest sports shoes developments and trends. Issues of comfort, support, shoulder strap design and function remain the main challenges in sports bra production. Exports on the intimate apparel industry will address both theoretical and practical matters in various bra issues.
By 2020 China is projected to become the second largest R&D industry globally, overtaking Japan. From 2016 to 2020 China planned to increase R&D expenditure’s share of GDP to 2.5 per cent by 2020. The country aims to become a high-tech regional hub encouraging scientific innovations and their commercialisation under the Scientific Innovation 2030 initiative and industrial transitioning plan – Made in China 2025.
The latter initiative is set to fuel innovation in manufacturing industries and support the development of emerging industries such as IT, 5G mobile communications, computerised machines, robotics, electric vehicles, medical devices, artificial intelligence, and bio-pharmacy.
However, industry’s development is projected to be negatively affected by growing skills shortage in the country, with graduates in science recording the lowest increase in number during 2011-2016. One of the most interesting yet least appreciated facets of modern China is its transformation from a low-cost, labor intensive manufacturer to an economy driven by an indigenous, self-sustaining process of technological change. The emergence of home grown research and development culture in China will not only help the country transition from developing to developed country status but also boost its transformation from an export to a consumption-led economy.
For the West, the rise of innovation and R&D in China means that the next big wave of Chinese competition is only a few years away – this time from China’s innovation prowess, not just its cheaper labor.
Cambodia’s garment and footwear industry generated over $6.5 billion last year while providing jobs for about 7,00,000 workers. Improving workers’ wages, health care, transport and working environment is likely to benefit employers by resulting in increased worker efficiency.
Improving labor productivity would be fundamental for Cambodia to remain competitive, given rising competition from other low-wage garment exporting countries. Cambodia wants preferential trade terms for its footwear exports from the United States.
Preference systems let developing countries export certain goods to donor countries at reduced tariff levels. Cambodian footwear, textiles and garments are excluded from the US GSP. Cambodia’s footwear and garment industry exports under the US’ most favored nation program are taxed by the US, which wants to protect its local industries. Cambodia’s real growth is projected to remain strong, expanding at 6.9 per cent in 2017 and 2018.
Risks to this outlook include the fallout from further rises in US interest rates, a slower-than expected economic recovery in Europe, and uncertainties over global trade. US monetary policy tightening is expected to result in the dollar appreciating vis-a-vis the euro and other currencies, which would make Cambodia’s exports and tourism relatively more expensive for the rest of the world, and therefore less competitive.
The African Development Bank (AfDB) aims to support the growth of the African textile and fashion sectors through focus on building capacities of micro, small and medium-sized enterprises, especially for women and youth. AfDB has taken the lead in promoting investments in the textile and fashion sector, increasing access to finance for entrepreneurs and incubating and accelerating start-ups.
In addition to using its traditional public- and private-sector financing instruments to support the growth of the textile and fashion industry, AfDB is developing innovative and technology-driven Fashionomics Africa platform, an online interactive marketplace for medium and small scale enterprises and relevant stakeholders in the textile and fashion sectors in Africa. The goal is to enable young African textile and fashion entrepreneurs to create and grow their businesses.
AfDB feels Africa should be exporting finished textile products, such as clothes, suits, dresses, shirts, and not cotton lint. Africa produces up to six per cent of the world’s cotton, but the continent has very few textile factories and, due to poor industrialization, much of the fabric is imported from Asia.
However, the growth prospect of fashion industry in Africa is promising. Steps in this direction are fostering the development of local suppliers, entrepreneurs, and regional value chains, ensuring access to low-cost financing, building a more conducive business climate, buying from locally owned companies, investing in infrastructure and establishing more educational institutions.
"With China’s labour cost increasing, the country is shifting focus on automation to make factories more efficient. For instance, Chenfeng Group, a leading contractor for Uniqlo operated by Japan's Fast Retailing, recently set up a production line using a hanger system in a corner of its huge garment factory in Changzhou, Northwest, Shanghai. The factory makes 1.3 million shirts a month. This new system allows shirts to be assembled on a single hanger that moves around the production line, guided by circular rail suspended from the ceiling. The hanger stops in front of a worker, who attaches a part to the shirt or performs a task. "
With China’s labour cost increasing, the country is shifting focus on automation to make factories more efficient. For instance, Chenfeng Group, a leading contractor for Uniqlo operated by Japan's Fast Retailing, recently set up a production line using a hanger system in a corner of its huge garment factory in Changzhou, Northwest, Shanghai. The factory makes 1.3 million shirts a month. This new system allows shirts to be assembled on a single hanger that moves around the production line, guided by circular rail suspended from the ceiling. The hanger stops in front of a worker, who attaches a part to the shirt or performs a task. When the worker is done, the hanger moves on to the next step, making its way around the circle until the item is finished.
Technology to boost production
There are around 50 sewing machines and their operators are deployed along the rail. Sensors determine how fast each operator is working and send the shirts to the best operator for the task at hand. The time needed to complete each step varies, depends on its complexity and the skill and experience of the worker. As one of the factory officials informed, before the new assembly method, it was difficult to keep track of progress for each of the 47 steps in the assembly process. Delays in particular steps slowed production all along the line. The new system raises production efficiency by 15 per cent.
Looking at the gains, the company is eyeing to introduce the system at around 200 of its production lines in its nine factories across China in the next two years. This will increase total output to 10 million shirts monthly by 2020, from roughly 6 million at present. Chenfeng plans to spend a total 2 billion yuan ($299 million) from fiscal 2013 through fiscal 2018 to increase production.
The change is just not limited to the hanger system but also to automating specific processes. The company is working on semi-automation of tasks such as attaching buttons and pockets, as well as sewing the center back line. This would drastically reduce the number of people needed for each step from several operators to just one. CEO Gao Dekang point out, the company is considering moving some production to Vietnam and other locations abroad. At present, about 20 per cent of its production lines are automated. The company wants to increase the percentage to 50-60 per cent within several years. Potential areas for automation include fabric cutting machines and down filling machines. The company is also looking to introduce robots for picking goods in warehouses and shipping.
Rising labour cost – a concern
According to the Japan External Trade Organization, the monthly basic wage in China topped $400 on average last year. That was twice as high as the monthly wage in Vietnam, and four times higher that of Bangladesh. Labour costs in China are expected to continue rising 10 per cent a year or more. That has already prompted some garment makers to shift production to Southeast Asia. In 2015, China's clothing exports totalled $175 billion, or around 40 per cent of global exports, according to data from the World Trade Organization. The value fell 6 per cent from a year earlier, while shipments from emerging economies such as Bangladesh, Cambodia and Vietnam increased.
For its 93rd edition, Pitti Uomo, the menswear tradeshow, which opens on January 9 and runs till January 12 in Florence, Italy, has announced 'film' as this year's theme and another roster of newcomers and big events which are expected to transform the show's venue Fortezza da Bassa ‘into a prestigious global platform, chosen by brands for the international unveiling of new trends and unpublished projects,’.
Showcasing latest in men's autumn/winter 2018-19 collections, the upcoming show will bring together 1,230. Among these, 541 will be international (some 44 per cent of the total) and 227 will be either making their debut or be returning after a break. One such case is that of Corneliani, which quit Pitti seven years ago, opting instead to showcase in Milan. Joining this season is Gazzarini, who for a long time has showcased in Milan and returns with a special presentation-cum-party on the opening day. Also returning to the show is Paul & Shark, Fratelli Rossetti and Pepe Jeans London, which will celebrate its 45th anniversary during the week. So also will Dutch jeans brand Denham, set to commemorate its tenth birthday at the Florence show.
American menswear label Brooks Brothers has chosen Pitti to celebrate its milestone, its bicentenary, on, January 10 in the grand Salone dei Cinquecento de Palazzo Vecchio (the historic palace of the Florence city hall). The program includes a first-ever runway show by Brooks Brothers and an exhibition on the brand.
Karl Lagerfeld is another headliner to watch, and will show a preview presentation of his new menswear project. Of interest are the show's guests of honour for this edition: Jun Takahashi from the brand Undercover and designer Takahiro Miyashita, who heads up Takahiromiyashita The Soloist. Other highlights include Italian brand Malibu 1992, which has been renamed M1992 and the first-ever runway show from Luca Magliano, the winner of design competition Who’s On Next Uomo 2017, with his namesake label Magliano.
Korean designers Beyond Closet and Bmuet(te) are also set to star, alongside new Japanese talent Body Song, Children of the Discordance, Digawel, F/CE, Kuon and Soe. Other headline events include the announcement of the Woolmark prize men's and women's winners and the opening of a new space featuring designs from Finland. There will also be a number of parallel events taking place in the city with the opening of new stores by Moncler and Ermanno Scervino and the Gucci Garden which will double as both store and restaurant for the luxury brand.
