FW
S Savita, Handlooms and Textiles Minister, Andhra Pradesh has announced the government’s plans to establish a large-scale handloom park in Mangalagiri, Guntur district. According to her, the park will provide consistent, year-round employment to local weavers who faced several hardships during the previous YSRCP government.
To be located near Auto Nagar in Mangalagiri, the park will spread across 11 acre. It will help the government revitalize the textile industry in Andhra Pradesh and provide financial assistance to weavers in the state, ensuring their livelihoods are secure throughout the year. Over the last seven months, the government has been successful in marketing and selling the weavers products across India, notes Savitha.
The recent article ‘Style: The Death of Pak Fashion?’ highlights the grim situation of the Pakistani fashion industry. The author, a seasoned fashion journalist, laments the decline of creativity and innovation, replaced by a glut of celebrities, uninspired bridal bling, and a focus on commercial viability over artistic expression.
The rise and fall of Pakistani fashion
Pakistani fashion has witnessed a remarkable journey. It first stepped onto the global stage with its intricate hand embroidery and vibrant colors, captivating audiences with its unique blend of traditional craftsmanship and modern silhouettes. Designers like Deepak Perwani and HSY became household names, showcasing their collections at international fashion weeks and dressing global celebrities.
However, the article argues this golden age is fading. The author observes a decline in the quality of fashion shows, with even established designers producing "generic mish-mash." This raises a critical question: What factors have contributed to this perceived decline?
Reasons for the decline
Commercialization: The article highlights the shift towards commercially viable designs, often at the expense of creativity. This is reflected in the dominance of bridal wear, a lucrative segment that often prioritizes opulence over innovation. Data from a 2022 report by Fashion Council Pakistan indicated that bridal wear accounted for 60 per cent of the industry's revenue, highlighting its commercial importance.
Celebrification: The obsession with celebrity endorsements has overshadowed the focus on design. The author criticizes the ‘unabashed celebrification’ where "profits get generated when a popular 'it' celebrity is seen wearing clothes by a design house. Even when the clothes are downright ugly,” this over-reliance on star power can stifle creativity and originality.
Lack of curation: The absence of strong curatorial voices and platforms for showcasing cutting-edge design is another contributing factor. The author points to the decline of fashion weeks and the lack of mentorship for emerging designers.
International popularity endures
Despite these challenges, Pakistani fashion continues to enjoy significant international popularity. Pakistani designers are increasingly gaining recognition on global platforms. For example, Mohsin Naveed Ranjha showcased his collection at Milan Fashion Week 2023, receiving critical acclaim for his modern take on traditional silhouettes. Similarly, brand Khaadi has successfully blended traditional craftsmanship with contemporary designs, creating a global following. Their focus on handloom fabrics and ethical production practices resonates with conscious consumers worldwide.
E-commerce platforms like Etsy and Shopify have opened up new avenues for Pakistani designers to reach international customers. A 2023 study by Statista revealed a 30 per cent increase in online sales of Pakistani fashion products to international markets compared to the previous year. The Pakistani diaspora too plays a crucial role in promoting local fashion abroad. As fashion blogger Aamna Haider Isani notes, "The diaspora acts as a bridge, carrying the trends and aesthetics of Pakistani fashion to their adopted countries, creating a ripple effect that influences global fashion." For example, known for its luxurious and intricately embellished designs, Élan has captured the attention of international celebrities and fashion influencers. Their recent collaboration with Indian couturier Manish Malhotra further solidified their global presence.
The way forward
The challenges facing Pakistani fashion are undeniable. However, the industry's inherent strengths – its rich heritage, skilled artisans, and growing international recognition – provide a strong foundation for a resurgence. To move forward, the industry needs to first reclaim its creative identity. Designers need to prioritize innovation and originality, moving beyond commercially safe choices. As designer Shehla Chatoor points out, "Pakistani fashion needs to rediscover its soul. We need to go back to our roots, to the craftsmanship and artistry that defines us." Also, leveraging digital platforms for showcasing talent and reaching global audiences is crucial. Initiatives like the Digital Fashion Week Karachi are steps in the right direction. And establishing mentorship programs and curatorial platforms can nurture emerging talent and provide guidance.
The future of Pakistani fashion hinges on its ability to adapt, innovate, and reclaim its narrative. While the challenges are real, the potential for growth and global recognition remains immense. By embracing its strengths and addressing its weaknesses, Pakistani fashion can once again soar to new heights.
China’s Xinjiang region synonymous with cotton is deeply entangled in controversy, raising ethical and economic questions that reverberate throughout the global supply chain, including impacting India's cotton trade.
Xinjiang's dominance in Chinese cotton production
Xinjiang accounts for a staggering proportion of China's cotton output. Recent estimates suggest over 80 per cent of China's cotton originates from Xinjiang, with the region producing around 5 million tonnes annually. This dominance is driven by several factors like favorable climate, as Xinjiang's dry climate and ample sunshine create optimal growing conditions for cotton. The Chinese government has heavily invested in Xinjiang's cotton industry, providing subsidies and infrastructure development. And large-scale farms in Xinjiang have readily adopted mechanized harvesting, increasing efficiency and output.
In fact, Xinjiang's cotton production has significantly impacted China's overall cotton industry. First it has help in reducing imports as China, once a major cotton importer, has seen its import dependence decrease due to Xinjiang's production surge. This has direct implications for India, a major cotton exporter. On the other hand exports have grown. China has emerged a significant exporter of cotton yarn and finished textile products, leveraging Xinjiang's cotton. This increased competition affects Indian textile exports. Xinjiang cotton also helps China's massive textile industry, feeding domestic demand for apparel and other goods.
India's perspective
While India is a major cotton producer, the dynamics of Xinjiang's production influence its cotton trade with China. First is that it has resulted in lowering exports to China as China's domestic production increases, reliance on Indian cotton imports diminishes. This is reflected in the declining trend of raw cotton exports from India to China. However, India has seen a rise in cotton yarn exports to China. This suggests that despite Xinjiang's cotton dominance, there is still demand for specific yarn varieties and qualities that India can fulfill. The rise of China as a textile exporter, has been led by Xinjiang cotton and this presents competition for India in the global market.
Table: China’s cotton production, imports
|
Year |
China's cotton production (mn tons) |
Xinjiang's Share (%) |
China's cotton imports (mn tons) |
India's cotton exports to China (mn tons) |
India's cotton yarn exports to China ($ mn) |
|
2021 |
5.9 |
85 |
2 |
0.8 |
550 |
|
2022 |
6 |
87 |
1.8 |
0.6 |
680 |
|
2023 |
6.1 |
90 |
1.5 |
0.5 |
720 |
|
2024 |
6.2 |
94.8 |
1.0 (estimated) |
0.4 (estimated) |
750 (estimated) |
(Source: National Bureau of Statistics of China, USDA Foreign Agricultural Service, Ministry of Commerce and Industry India, Texprocil)
Table: China’s leading cotton trading partners
China's exports: Vietnam, Bangladesh, Pakistan, Turkey
China's imports: United States, Brazil, Australia
India's Exports: Bangladesh, Vietnam, China, Pakistan
Uncertainties, controversies arond Xinjiang cotton
There are several controversies around cotton from the Xinjiang region. Allegations of forced labor in Xinjiang continue to cast a shadow over the region's cotton industry. This impacts the ethical sourcing policies of many companies globally, including those in India. Meanwhile trade disputes and political pressures related to Xinjiang cotton create uncertainty in the global market. This can disrupt established trade flows and impact Indian exporters. The environmental impact of cotton production in Xinjiang, including water usage, is also a growing concern. This raises questions about the long-term viability of such large-scale cotton production.
However, the fact is Xinjiang cotton plays a pivotal role in China's domestic textile industry and holds significant sway in the global cotton market. This has direct and indirect consequences for India's cotton trade, impacting its exports of raw cotton and yarn to China. While India continues to be a significant player in the global cotton market, navigating the complexities arising from Xinjiang's production, including ethical concerns and geopolitical tensions, remains crucial for India's cotton industry.
Portugal’s leading textile trade fair has a new name MOD'Unica replacing Modtissimo after 64 editions. This rebranding underscores its status as the only event exclusively for the Portuguese textile and clothing industry and the oldest of its kind in the Iberian Peninsula.
The name MOD'Unica reflects its unique role in showcasing Portugal’s expertise in textilesmerging tradition, innovation, and sustainability. It honors Modtissimo’s legacy while embracing a future-focused vision.
Bringing together spinning, weaving, knitting, finishing, technical textiles, apparel, and home textiles, MOD'Unica is a hub for integrated solutions. It highlights Portuguese craftsmanship and forward-thinking strategies, with a strong focus on sustainability and social responsibility.
Organized by ATP, Textile and Clothing Association of Portugal, with Spormex Events, the next edition is set for February 26-27 at Exponor. This event will celebrate ‘Made in Portugal,’ offering a platform for industry professionals to connect, innovate, and define the future of textiles.
Join MOD'Unica and experience Portugal’s unique approach to textileswhere tradition meets technology to shape a global benchmark.
The inaugural Shift event, held on January 26-27, received rave reviews for its vibrant atmosphere, top-tier venue, and high-quality offerings. The event successfully brought together a dynamic crowd, creating a sense of unity and excitement in line with its mission to ignite innovation in the fashion industry.
“This energy feels like the first Modefabriek,” noted the organizers, who also co-founded Modefabriek and Denim Days.
Shift's debut signals the beginning of a promising future. With a focus on collaboration, innovation, and growth, the event aims to drive change in the fashion sector, despite current challenges.
The event’s three-month preparation time has set the stage for refining and expanding future editions, with room for more brands and activities. The venue’s flexibility ensures that upcoming events can accommodate larger selections of brands and unique experiences.
Already, several brands have committed to the next edition, indicating a strong demand for Shift’s platform. The organizers are eager and confident about the event's continued success and future expansion.
Officina39 marks a significant milestone with its participation in the inaugural Denimsandjeans Egypt event, held February 2-3 in Cairo. This debut signals the company’s strategic move into one of the fastest-growing textile and denim hubs.
Egypt's strong textile heritage, coupled with its geographic advantage connecting Europe, Africa, and Asia, positions it as a key player in global sourcing. The country’s growing focus on innovation and sustainability aligns with Officina39’s vision for the future of denim.
At Denimsandjeans Egypt, Officina39 presents its cutting-edge solutions, blending Italian creativity, advanced chemistry, and a steadfast commitment to sustainable practices. The company aims to help reshape Egypt’s textile industry by driving efficiency, transparency, and reduced environmental impact.
“This is an incredible opportunity to collaborate with Egypt’s textile innovators and contribute to a market ready to embrace a new way of thinking about production,” said Andrea Venier, Managing Director of Officina39.
Officina39’s approach to innovation focuses on tackling the industry’s most pressing challenges, such as reducing water and energy consumption and promoting circularity. Key products showcased include Recycrom, a circular dyeing process utilizing textile scraps, and Aqualess Mission, which eliminates water use in denim treatments like vintage effects and abrasion.
The company also highlights innovations like Easyndigo, a sustainable indigo dyeing system, and Zero PP, an eco-friendly alternative to Potassium Permanganate.
As Egypt’s textile and denim sectors continue to evolve, Officina39 is committed to supporting local manufacturers with scalable, sustainable solutions that cater to the needs of global brands while prioritizing environmental responsibility.
Inaugurating the Denim and Jeans Exhibition in Cairo, Salih Mutlu Sen, Turkey’s Ambassador to Egypt emphasized on the strong and growing industrial and trade cooperation between Turkey and Egypt, especially within the textile sector. He highlighted the crucial role played by Turkish companies in Egypt's denim production, noting their commitment to investing and reinvesting in the Egyptian market.
Sen also highlighted how Turkish businesses have helped establish Egypt as a major denim producer, attracting leading international brands that source their denim products, particularly jeans, from Egyptian factories. He praised the pioneering work of these Turkish companies, citing them as examples of sustainable growth.
Further, Sen emphasized on the mutually beneficial economic relationship between the two nations, stating that the ‘win-win’ collaboration is most evident in the textile sector, particularly in denim fabrics and apparel. This thriving textile partnership is part of a larger, robust trade relationship, he said. According to him, the bilateral trade between Turkey and Egypt is projected to exceed $10 billion this year and reach $15 billion within the next five years, demonstrating a strong and promising economic future for both countries.
The two-day Denim and Jeans Exhibition featured around 55 companies from 10 countries, with a significant presence of 26 Turkish firms.
Lenzing Group, a global leader in wood-based specialty fibers, concluded its participation in the Fibers & Yarns Expo 2025 on a high note, held in Mumbai from Jan 23-25, drawing strong interest from brands, spinners, and industry professionals. The event served as a key platform for Lenzing to showcase its latest advancements in sustainable fiber technology.
Innovative fiberportfolio on display
Lenzing presented an extensive range of its signature fibers, including TencelLyocell A100, TencelLyocell LF, Cotton Enhanced with Tencel, Lenzing Ecovero Black collections, Tencel Denim, Tencel Home, and fashion woven fabrics. The company also highlighted its latest developments in traditional and ethnic wear, as well as Tencel Intimate and Tencel Active collections.
A major highlight was Tencel Fibers with Micro Technology, designed to offer superior softness, lightness, and moisture management. These fibers enhance comfort and durability, making them ideal for various textile applications.
Strong industry engagement
The three-day expo attracted over 4,000 visitors, including representatives from more than 25 leading brands and 40 top spinners. The significant turnout underscored the growing demand for sustainable, high-performance fibers in India’s textile sector.
Avinash Mane, Senior Commercial Director of Textile Business at Lenzing Fibres AMEA & NEA, expressed satisfaction with the event’s success. “The enthusiastic response from brands, manufacturers, and industry experts has been truly rewarding. Our innovations, including TencelFibers with Micro Technology and Ecovero Black fibers, reflect our commitment to sustainability and cutting-edge fiber solutions,” he said.
Driving sustainability and innovation
Lenzing reinforced its leadership in sustainable fiber solutions at the expo, emphasizing its dedication to fostering industry partnerships that drive innovation and enhance product offerings. The company aims to build on the momentum gained at the event, furthering its vision of a more efficient and eco-friendly textile industry in India and beyond.
About Lenzing Group
Lenzing Group is a leader in eco-friendly, regenerated cellulose fibers, using cellulose and recycled materials. The company partners with global textile and nonwoven manufacturers, driving innovation in sustainable fiber production. Lenzing’s fibers are used in a wide range of textile applications, from clothing to home textiles, with TUV AUSTRIA certifications for biodegradability and compostability.
Lenzing goes beyond traditional fiber production, collaborating with customers to develop innovative products and shift towards a circular economy. Committed to reducing global warming, Lenzing aims to cut greenhouse gas emissions significantly by 2030 and achieve net-zero by 2050, in line with the Paris Agreement and the EU Green Deal.
In its assessment of the Indian textile sector, the Economic Survey highlights India's position as the sixth-largest global exporter of textiles and apparel (T&A). The survey outlines the sector's significant contributions to India's GDP, industrial production and overall exports. It also underscores the sector's role as a major employment generator, providing direct jobs to over 45 million people, including a large number of women and rural residents. The inclusive nature of the industry is further demonstrated by the fact that nearly 80 per cent of its capacity resides within Micro, Small and Medium Enterprise (MSME) clusters.
In 2023, India's textile exports reached $34 billion. Of this, the apparel exports constituted 42 per cent, followed by raw or semi-finished materials at 34 per cent and finished non-apparel goods at 30 per cent. As per the survey, Europe and the US accounted for about 66 per cent of India’s apparel exports, 58 per cent of finished non-apparel goods, and 12 per cent of raw/semi-finished materials. Other key export destinations include the UK (8 per cent) and the UAE (7 per cent) (UK, UAE). The survey notes the resilience of textile exports during the COVID-19 pandemic (COVID-19).
Further the Economic Survey suggests, government initiatives, such as the PM MITRA scheme (PM MITRA), which aims to establish world-class textile parks with plug-and-play infrastructure, will support integrated supply chains and attract foreign direct investment (FDI) into the sector. Recognizing the need for research and development (R&D) in MMF, the National Technical Textiles Mission (NTTM) has been allocated Rs 1,480 crore, with research as a core component. In 2024, 168 research projects were approved under the NTTM. To further encourage exports, the Scheme for Rebate of State and Central Taxes and Levies (ROSCTL) has been extended until March 31, 2026. Concluding on an optimistic note, the Economic Survey says, the Indian textile sector possesses several advantages that position it well for future growth.
India's textile industry is poised for a period of substantial growth, capitalizing on disruptions in competing markets that are opening up new opportunities for Indian exporters. This growth is expected to have a significant impact on the Indian domestic market and its supply chain, says a recent JM Financial report.
Key findings of the JM Financial Report
The JM Financial report highlights several key factors contributing to this optimistic outlook:
Shifting global landscape: Instability in key textile-producing countries like Bangladesh, grappling with political instability and logistical complexities, is prompting international buyers to explore alternative sourcing options. India, with its established textile industry and supportive government policies, is emerging as a favorable choice.
Competitive edge: The normalization of cotton and yarn prices in India, combined with a narrowing price gap between Indian and Chinese cotton, further strengthens India's competitive advantage in the global market. This price stability is crucial for Indian textile manufacturers, allowing them to offer competitive prices while maintaining healthy profit margins.
Expanding market share: India's apparel exports share in key markets like the US and the UK has steadily increased. In 2024, India holds a 7 per cent share in the US apparel import market and a 6 per cent share of the UK market, up from 6 per cent and 5 per cent respectively in 2023. This growth demonstrates India's increasing competitiveness and ability to meet the demands of international buyers.
Strategic trade agreements: The recently implemented UK-India Free Trade Agreement is expected to boost Indian textile exports by reducing trade barriers and enhancing market access. This agreement provides a significant advantage for Indian exporters, allowing them to compete more effectively in the UK market.
Red sea crisis and freight costs: The global textile industry has been facing challenges due to the Red Sea crisis, which has led to inflated freight costs and extended transportation times for shipments between the East and West. However, the report suggests increased freight costs are expected to decrease in coming months as peak season shipments ease and the Red Sea issue subsides. This anticipated reduction in freight costs will further improve margins for Indian companies.
China+1 strategy: Rising labor costs in China and the diversification of sourcing strategies by international retailers, known as the China+1 strategy, are contributing to China's declining market share in the global textile market. This shift is creating new opportunities for Indian exporters to capture a larger share of the global market.
Inventory de-stocking cycle: The end of the global inventory de-stocking cycle is expected to boost demand for textiles in the second half of the year as retailers replenish their stocks and prepare for the holiday season. This increased demand presents a favorable opportunity for Indian exporters to increase their sales and expand their market presence.
While these global disruptions pose challenges to the international textile industry, they also present significant opportunities for India. This shift in the global landscape is expected to have a profound impact on the Indian domestic market and its supply chain.
Table: Feature of the Report
|
Textile industry at a glance |
Details |
|
Market Size in 2024 |
$240.8 bn |
|
Projected Market Size in 2033 |
$475.7 bn |
|
Market Size in 2023 |
$226 bn |
|
CAGR Growth Rate |
6.84% CAGR |
|
Export Value (2023-24) |
$ 41.1 bn |
|
Global Export Ranking |
4th |
Impact on the domestic market and supply chain
The anticipated growth in the textile sector is expected to bring both benefits and challenges to the Indian domestic market and supply chain.
Increased employment: As production grows to meet rising demand, the textile sector, already the second-largest employment generating sector in India , is expected to create even more jobs, particularly in rural areas where a significant portion of the population relies on the textile industry for livelihood. This job creation will contribute to economic development and improve living standards in these regions.
Economic growth: The growth in textile exports will contribute significantly to India's foreign exchange earnings and GDP, further stimulating economic development and strengthening the country's position in the global economy.
Investment in infrastructure: Increased textile production is likely to encourage investment in infrastructure, including textile parks, manufacturing units, and logistics facilities. This investment will not only support the textile industry but also contribute to the overall development of the manufacturing sector in India.
Boost to ancillary industries: Growth in the textile sector will also benefit ancillary industries such as dyeing, printing, and textile machinery manufacturing. This ripple effect will create a positive growth cycle across various sectors of the Indian economy.
Technology upgradation: The Indian textile industry is increasingly adopting automation and advanced machinery to boost efficiency, reduce costs, and improve the precision and quality of textiles and garments. This technological upgradation is enhancing the competitiveness of Indian textile manufacturers in the global market.
E-commerce growth: The rise of e-commerce platforms in India is creating new opportunities for textile companies to reach a wider customer base, both domestically and internationally. This online expansion is opening up new markets and sales channels for Indian textile products.
Growing domestic demand: Increasing demand for premium quality clothing and footwear items within India is driving growth in the domestic textile market. This rising domestic consumption is contributing to the overall growth of the textile industry.
Potential challenges
Raw material sourcing: While India is a major cotton producer, it still relies on imports for certain types of cotton and other raw materials. Ensuring a consistent and affordable supply of raw materials will be crucial to sustain growth and avoid supply chain disruptions.
Infrastructure bottlenecks: Inadequate transportation systems, power shortages, and outdated technology in some parts of the country could hinder the efficiency of the textile manufacturing process and increase production costs. Addressing these infrastructure challenges is essential to maintain competitiveness.
Skilled labor shortage: Meeting the increased demand for skilled labor will require significant investment in training and development programs to ensure a skilled workforce for the expanding textile industry.
Sustainability concerns: The textile industry faces growing pressure to adopt sustainable practices and address environmental and social concerns, such as water pollution, waste management, and fair labor practices. Meeting these sustainability standards is crucial for long-term growth and maintaining a positive brand image.
Overall the JM Financial report paints a positive picture for the Indian textile sector. By capitalizing on the opportunities presented by global disruptions and addressing the associated challenges, India has the potential to not just replace competing markets but also capture new markets due to its competitive advantages. This growth trajectory will not only benefit the textile industry but also contribute significantly to the overall Indian economy, creating jobs, boosting exports, and driving economic development.
