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Resil Chemicals is partnering with Acticell to eliminate the use of potassium permanganate spray in the denim industry. The collaboration is focused on developing a range of sustainable chemical solutions for the denim industry. The idea is to substitute potassium permanganate with Actigo, which enables jeans manufacturers to move to a new process that eliminates the need for potassium permanganate spray and hand sand process.
Resil Chemicals is one of Asia’s leading textile finishing chemicals and auxiliary manufacturer. Acticell is an Austrian chemical research company committed to developing environmentally friendly, sustainable textiles.
Most denim manufacturers rely on hazardous and environmentally damaging chemical processes like potassium permanganate treatments to create effects on denim. Potassium permanganate, considered as a toxic and hazardous substance, is sprayed onto the denim fabric with a hand spray gun, exposing the factory employees to the danger of exposure to micro particles of potassium permanganate.
Actigo is a laser activated bleaching technology and provides a cost neutral solution to switch over from potassium permanganate sprays. Additionally, the new process saves water and energy in denim finishing and eliminates labor-intensive hand sanding and improves the safety of factory employees.
This treatment is now being used by major denim companies in North America and will be offered to the South Asian market.
Bread & Butter will take place in Germany, September 1 to 3, 2017. It is going to be bigger, more versatile and bolder, transforming itself from a trend show into a festival of style and culture. It will be an opinion-forming experience for consumers.
This is a German street wear trade fair. The show enables customers and brands to get in touch directly – online and offline - and experience the best of fashion in the digital age. It focuses on fashion as well as the music and lifestyle areas.
Last year’s motto was Now, referring to the show’s momentum as a digital and thus instant platform. Yet with this year’s topic, Bold, the show wants to dive deeper into a substantive discourse about the confession of who a person is.
Bread & Butter has become much more a platform for engagement and inspiration than for simply shopping. Following this approach, Bread & Butter takes an educational approach by organizing talks and speeches.
Brands are invited to show a more atypical range of products at Bread & Butter to widen the spectrum of perception among the audience. The number of participating brands has increased from 25 to 40, among them Vans, Nike, Adidas and Hugo.
"According to a report by financial services firm Avendus Capital, women’s branded apparel market is set to overtake men’s apparel segment in size by 2025 growing from Rs 99,300 crore in 2015 to Rs 2.77 trillion in 2025, making nearly 40 per cent of the market then."
According to a report by financial services firm Avendus Capital, women’s branded apparel market is set to overtake men’s apparel segment in size by 2025 growing from Rs 99,300 crore in 2015 to Rs 2.77 trillion in 2025, making nearly 40 per cent of the market then.
The report also confirms that the growth in branded apparel for women is coming from increasing artificial obsolescence. This has rapidly changed how women identify brands and maintain loyalty with them, the report said. “Brand association is more with design language today (and) style and design are the top considerations,” the report said, citing data from RedSeer Market research and consulting firm AT Kearney, which showed that most consumers counted style and design as their top or second consideration while shopping for clothes.
Abha Agarwal, director at Avendus Capital says that to create a brand, you need to have a clear positioning. One needs to focus on the designs if you want to grow eyond Rs40-50 crores in size also brands will have to carefully calibrate their throughput and their inventories to control costs, says Agarwal.
Avendus’s report estimates that as brands focus on more complex designs to cater to a demand for rapidly changing trends, 70-80 per cent of garment costs will come from the design choices a brand makes. This will also mean more inventory piled up as trends change nearly 20 per cent unsold every season and more discount sales to get rid of it.
Online (e-commerce) has become easier channel for smaller brands to grow, but anyone who wants to grow beyond a Rs40-50 crore size will have to focus on EBO (exclusive brand outlet),” she stated. EBOs are a network of physical stores that exclusively sell one brand. These are relatively more expensive than multi-brand outlets where more than one brand is sold and concepts such as shop-in-shops (space dedicated to one brand) can help reduce rental cost.
According to Agarwal brands need to be focused on strong design and setting up EBOs if they are looking for long-term growth. All major private equity deals in the apparel space in India in 2015 and 2016 involved companies with high design complexity in their products, the report said.
"A new investigation report has found fast fashion majors such as H&M, Zara and Marks & Spencer are buying material produced in factories that devastate peoples’ health in Indonesia, China and India. Toxic run-off from the manufacture of viscose, a supposedly environmentally friendly fibre used to make clothes, is contaminating water supplies and has been linked to increased risk of cancer. Viscose is a plant-based fibre which means it is sometimes promoted as an ethical choice for consumers."
A new investigation report has found fast fashion majors such as H&M, Zara and Marks & Spencer are buying material produced in factories that devastate peoples’ health in Indonesia, China and India. Toxic run-off from the manufacture of viscose, a supposedly environmentally friendly fibre used to make clothes, is contaminating water supplies and has been linked to increased risk of cancer. Viscose is a plant-based fibre which means it is sometimes promoted as an ethical choice for consumers. However, most viscose is currently produced using a highly chemical-intensive process, reveals a study by campaign group Changing Markets Foundation.
The evidences
The report found evidence that viscose manufacturers are dumping untreated wastewater into local water supplies. For instance, in West Java, Indonesia, locals were found washing viscose products in the river, directly exposing themselves to toxic chemicals contained in the fibre. Near another plant in Jiangxi, China, viscose production had apparently turned the water of the Poyang Lake black, killing fish and shrimps, and stunting crop growth. In Madhya Pradesh, India, which is home to a large viscose plant, families were found to be suffering cases of cancer and birth deformities after their groundwater and soil was contaminated by industrial pollution.
Cheap production, which is driven by the fast fashion industry, combined with lax enforcement of environmental regulations in China, India and Indonesia, is proving to be a toxic mix. Unless the garment industry acts to clean up production the damage caused by viscose production will get worse, according to the report.
Viscose, the main polluter
An unprecedented increase in demand for clothing worldwide, boosted by population growth and the emergence of middle class consumers in China and India, is leading to more viscose being produced. Natasha Hurley, Campaign Manager, Changing Markets, says some of the world’s biggest brands are turning a blind eye to questionable practices within their supply chains. With water pollution increasingly being recognised as a major business risk, shifting to more sustainable production processes should be high on retailers’ agendas.
Large fashion brands have significant purchasing power that they could pressure suppliers to clean up their methods with relatively little effort. The organisation calculates 10 companies control around 70 per cent of global viscose production, meaning there is a clear opportunity for rapid and transformational change across the sector. The group called upon big brands to only buy viscose made in an environmentally friendly way, and to assist producers with any transition costs.
"The number of countries experiencing physical violence and threats against workers has risen by 10 per cent in just one year, says the annual ITUC Global Rights Index. Attacks on union members have been documented in 59 countries, fuelling growing anxiety about jobs and wages. The report shows corporate interests are being put ahead of the interests of working people in the global economy, with 60 per cent countries excluding whole categories of workers from labour law."
The number of countries experiencing physical violence and threats against workers has risen by 10 per cent in just one year, says the annual ITUC Global Rights Index. Attacks on union members have been documented in 59 countries, fuelling growing anxiety about jobs and wages. The report shows corporate interests are being put ahead of the interests of working people in the global economy, with 60 per cent countries excluding whole categories of workers from labour law.
Denying workers protection under labour laws creates a hidden workforce, where governments and companies refuse to take responsibility, especially for migrant workers, domestic workers and those on short-term contracts. In too many countries, fundamental democratic rights are being undermined by corporate interests, says Sharan Burrow, ITUC General Secretary. The ITUC Global Rights Index 2017 ranks 139 countries against 97 internationally recognised indicators to assess where workers' rights are best protected in law and in practice.
Working people are being denied basic rights through which they can organise and collectively bargain for a fair share. This, along with growing constraints on freedom of speech, is driving populism and threatening democracy itself, said Sharan Burrow. The report ranks the 10 worst countries for workers' rights in 2017 as Bangladesh, Colombia, Egypt, Guatemala, Kazakhstan, the Philippines, Qatar, South Korea, Turkey and the United Arab Emirates.
Bangladesh, an example
The country’s garment industry produces low-cost items and massive profits for a range of international brands, including Tommy Hilfiger, Calvin Klein and Gap. The industry employs about 4.5 million workers, 80 per cent of whom are young girls from rural areas. In fact, one in every eight Bangladeshi directly or indirectly depends on the textile industry. Bangladesh’s garment workers are the lowest paid in the world, receiving just 5,300 takas ($68) per month. While hazardous roads and chronic power shortages are a serious problem for the garment industry, international retailers and investors are attracted by the country’s poverty-level wages.
Despite many promises from employers, wages have not improved in the past four years. A recent report cited, one of the employees, Ashik and his wife Rahinur, who worked in a factory producing clothes for international retailers such as H&M and Zara, were sacked for joining demonstrations demanding wage increase last December. They worked 14 hours a day but earned only $193 a month between them. Their wages were just enough to cover food and rent but not health care. Having lost their jobs, they could now only afford rice and some dried fish.
Need for stringent government policies
The challenge is for governments to accept their responsibility to govern for people, not just in the interests of big business, by making laws that respect international labour standards. Even under the most oppressive circumstances, workers will continue to organise unions, and it's time that politicians stood up for them instead of trampling on their rights, said Burrow.
The US has urged African countries to fulfil their obligations under the terms of Agoa, a preferential trade program of considerable benefit to Kenya. More than 66,000 jobs in Kenya are linked to Agoa, which earned the country a huge amount in textiles and apparel exports last year. Kenya is a member-state of the East African Community.
The US feels countries currently benefiting from trade preferences granted by the African Growth and Opportunity Act should continue complying with eligibility requirements established by US law.
The US-based Secondary Materials and Recycled Textiles Association has lodged a complaint with a US trade agency alleging that EAC countries violated Agoa’s terms by deciding to bar imports of used clothing from the US beginning in 2019. The association wants the EAC countries declared ineligible to take part in Agoa.
The US has hinted that Agoa, which gives 37 countries duty-free access to the US market for many products, may not be the preferred instrument for trade relations with African nations. It feels that bilateral trade agreements rather than large multilateral deals can be very effective tools for African development.
The US further wants African countries to treat US companies favorably and ensure they are in the best position possible to enter African markets.
The first EurAsian Geotextiles Symposium (EAGS) was held in Beijing, 7 – 8 June, attracting over 200 participants from 14 countries. The Symposium was co-organised by the China Industrial Textiles Industry Association (CNITA) and EDANA, and was supported by several other key international organizations including the International Textile Manufacturers Association (ITMF), the International Geosynthetics Society (IGS) and the International Society for Geosynthetic Materials China Committee (CCIGS).
Participants had the chance to learn of the latest trends and developments in technologies, markets and applications for geotextiles during 22 presentations by industry leaders and experts. The significant potential for global development of the geotextiles market was highlighted through the conference and confirmed by the level of interest in the companies participating in the tabletop exhibition.
Li Lingshen, President of CNITA stated that the success of the first edition of the EAGS confirms the idea to organize a symposium dedicated to geotextilesand he thanks the partners and sponsors for the continued cooperation with EDANA.
The General Manager of EDANA, Pierre Wiertz, commented that Geotextiles will not only be indispensable to implement such a large infrastructure plan, they will also help reduce the environmental impact also the Chinese Belt and Road policy was launched, making geotextiles even more topical and promising as a market segment.
World fiber market consumption was up 1.5 per cent in 2016.Oil-based synthetic fibers had the biggest share with 62.7 per cent. Common synthetic textile fibers are polylactide, olefin, spandex, nylon, lyocell, lurex, luminex, ingeo, acrylic, aramid, tencel, acetate, rayon, and polyester fiber, whereas cellulosic and protein-based fibers consist of cotton, wood-based cellulose fibers, other natural fibers and wool.
Synthetic textiles show special functions such as stretching, waterproofing and stain resistance. Synthetic materials withstand damage from water or stains. Natural fibers tend to be much more sensitive than synthetic blends. This is mainly because natural products are biodegradable. Natural fibers are susceptible to larval insect infestation. But synthetic fibers are not a good food source for insects. These abilities make synthetic fibers more durable than natural fibers. Synthetic fibers pick up dyes easily and also have special qualities which make them preferable and suitable textiles for the fashion industry.
Synthetic textiles also have some disadvantages, synthetic textile fibers burn faster than natural fibers. Synthetic textiles are not skin-friendly so they can’t be worn for longer periods. Synthetic materials are non-biodegradable in comparison to natural fibers. These factors hinder the growth of the synthetic textile fiber market.
Scientists are focusing on developing new kinds of synthetic fibers which are eco-friendly.
Switzerland has topped the list every year since 2011. Switzerland is the gold medalist once again, and that's seven years running, so that's quite an outstanding performance," Francis Gurry, head of the U.N. World Intellectual Property Organization (WIPO), told a news conference.
According to the UN agency, rich countries continue to dominate global innovation in terms of most new products and services, with Switzerland at the top for the seventh year running and high-income economies taking 24 of the top 25 spots – China is the exception at 22, moving up three places in the last 12 months.
The Global Innovation Index is produced jointly by WIPO and two business schools - INSEAD and the SC Johnson College of Business at Cornell University, and seeks to shed light on countries' competitiveness based on 81 indicators.
WIPO points out that innovation is key to sustaining the productivity growth required to meet the rising demand and to helping enhance the networks that integrate the sustainable food production, processing, distribution, consumption and waste management known as food systems.
A total of 17 economies comprise the 'innovation achievers' this year, with nine from the Sub-Saharan Africa region and three from Eastern Europe. Key findings show the rise of India as an emerging innovation centre in Asia, high innovation performance in Sub-Saharan Africa, showing particular strengths in institutions, infrastructure and business sophistication.
A group of Asian economies dubbed by WIPO as the "new Asian tigers" who are actively working to improve their innovation ecosystems and rank high in a number of important indicators related to education, productivity growth and high-tech exports, among others.
The theme of the GII 2017, 'Innovation Feeding the World,' carried out in agriculture and food systems in addition to adapting to climate change they face an enormous rise in global demand and increased competition for limited natural resources. The report underlines that innovation is key to sustaining the necessary productivity growth to help enhance networks that integrate the sustainable food production, processing, distribution, consumption, and waste management known as food systems.
Clothing Manufacturers Association of India (CMAI), the premier apparel body, in association with Tata Consultancy Services (TCS), has developed software to alert garment manufacturers about GST (Goods and Services Tax) compliance.
The unique software is being launched for the betterment of textile manufacturers at a minimal cost. From cotton traders to ginners and fabric manufacturers, anyone found non-compliant with GST will be identified through this software. The best part of this software is that it identifies the stage of non-compliance and sends automated reminders for tax compliance.
A garment manufacturer knows which vendor in the value chain has not paid the tax and hence the garment manufacturer can guide the vendor to pay their tax. Priced at Rs 18,000 for the initial six months, the software has a unique feature for highlighting the stage of compliance. The software automatically sends reminders to a vendor or a supplier who has not paid a tax at any stage in the textile value chain.
The impact of the 12 per cent tax on readymade garments above the Rs 1000 mark is not going to be significant. The rates will remain static in the lower price category of garments, with an increase of a per cent or two in the higher category.
