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The racks of fast fashion outlets and the digital storefronts showcasing the latest apparel trends mask a change occurring behind the scenes. For decades, the mantra of sourcing has been simple: chase the lowest cost. But that era is drawing to a close. Today, the intricate play of global supply chains is increasingly dictated not by price tags, but by political fault lines. Sourcing is no longer a mere supply chain decision; it has morphed into a high-stakes geopolitical chess game where brands, in their pursuit of affordable production, now find themselves navigating a treacherous minefield of diplomatic flashpoints. The chilling question echoing through boardrooms and sourcing offices is: how long before geopolitical risk eclipses even the sacrosanct metrics of price and capacity in the vendor selection process?
The apparel industry in Asia, long the main stay of global fashion, is grappling with a reality far more complex than predicting next season’s hemlines. Tariffs, trade disputes, and unilateral political decisions are no longer abstract threats; they are tangible disruptions reshaping the very fabric of how and where brands procure their goods.
US as a major shuffling force
The Trump administration’s tariff imposition Chinese goods have acted as a major catalyst, forcing a widespread reshuffling of global sourcing strategies. These tariffs, initiated in 2018, targeted a wide range of products, including apparel and textiles, with the explicit aim of encouraging domestic production and altering trade balances. However, the primary outcome for the apparel sector has been a significant push towards diversification of sourcing away from China.
As per the United States International Trade Commission (USITC), the share of apparel imports from China into the US has seen a noticeable decline in recent years.
Table: China’s apparel exports to the US
|
Year |
Share of US apparel imports from China |
Source |
|
2015 |
38.20% |
USITC DataWeb |
|
2020 |
31.90% |
USITC DataWeb |
|
2023 |
28.50% |
USITC DataWeb |
This data clearly indicates a downward trend in reliance on China as a primary apparel sourcing destination for the US market. However, this shift has created ripple effects across other Asian manufacturing hubs. Countries like Vietnam and India, often touted as alternative sourcing destinations, have seen an increase in demand, leading to infrastructure bottlenecks, labor shortages, and ultimately, increased costs and longer lead times. This highlights the interconnectedness of global supply chains and the challenges of rapidly shifting sourcing strategies.
Negotiating a minefield of geopolitical flashpoints
The pursuit of alternative sourcing, a direct response to tariff pressures, has led to a new some geopolitical complexities. India’s reported disruptions to Bangladeshi access to key ports for third-country trans-shipment, shows how regional political decisions can have a major consequences for international supply chains. These disruptions impact lead times and increase transportation costs for apparel brands sourcing from Bangladesh, a major global garment producer.
Similarly, Vietnam's growing scrutiny over the potential re-routing of Chinese goods to evade US tariffs adds another layer of risk. While specific data on the volume of such re-routed goods is difficult to ascertain publicly, the increased vigilance from customs authorities in both the US and Vietnam creates uncertainty and potential compliance risks for apparel exporters and their international buyers. Brands now face the added burden of ensuring the true origin of their goods to avoid penalties and reputational damage.
The ban on Xinjiang cotton in several Western countries, due to ethical concerns, has further complicated sourcing decisions. This has mandated stringent traceability requirements, forcing brands to go beyond basic supplier information and ensure transparency from the fiber level upwards.
Reports suggest an increase in auditing expenses and the need for sophisticated supply chain management systems. Organizations like the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) are playing a crucial role in establishing traceability standards, though challenges in verifying the origin of cotton remain.
The recent Red Sea crisis, triggered by geopolitical instability in the Middle East, has laid bare the vulnerability of global logistics. Data from maritime shipping companies and trade publications indicates a significant increase in shipping times and costs for goods destined for Europe. For example, Maersk reported in early 2024 an estimated 10-15 day increase in transit times for vessels rerouting around the Cape of Good Hope, along with substantial surcharges on shipments. This directly impacts apparel brands with European markets, leading to delays in product availability and increased operational expenses.
A reassessment of priorities
These geopolitical headwinds are forcing a fundamental reassessment of sourcing priorities. While cost remains a critical consideration, the tangible and potential costs associated with geopolitical instability – tariffs, shipping disruptions, compliance risks, and reputational damage – are increasingly factoring into decision-making processes.
Table: Shifting weighting of sourcing factors
|
Factor |
Pre-2018 (estimated) |
Current (Early 2025, estimated) |
Trend |
Influencing geopolitical events |
|
Price |
65% |
40-45% |
Decreasing |
US-China Tariffs, Increased Logistics Costs |
|
Capacity |
20% |
15-20% |
Decreasing |
Diversification pressures leading to bottlenecks elsewhere |
|
Lead Time |
10% |
15-20% |
Increasing |
Port disruptions, Red Sea crisis, longer alternative routes |
|
Geopolitical Risk |
<5% |
15-20% |
Increasing |
US-China Tariffs, Regional political instability, Trade disputes |
|
Compliance/Ethics |
<1% |
5-10% |
Increasing |
Xinjiang cotton ban, increased consumer awareness |
The above table, based on industry reports and expert opinions underscores the growing recognition that a purely cost-centric approach to sourcing is no longer sustainable in the face of increasing geopolitical volatility.
Resilience as the new competitive imperative
The evidence clearly suggests that geopolitical risk is fast becoming a primary filter in vendor selection, potentially even eclipsing traditional metrics like price and capacity. Brands that fail to proactively address these challenges risk significant disruptions to their supply chains, increased costs, and potential reputational damage.
The ability to build resilient and agile supply chains – characterized by diversification, risk assessment, and strong supplier relationships – will be the defining competitive advantage in the years to come. This requires a shift from simply seeking the cheapest production to prioritizing long-term stability and the ability to adapt to an increasingly complex and unpredictable global landscape. The geopolitical chess game is underway, and only those brands that can master its intricate moves will secure their position in the future of apparel sourcing.
New venue and format signal fresh start for Japan’s textile industry
The inaugural edition of Tokyo Textile Scope (TTS), organised by the Japan Fashion Week Organization (JFWO), concluded on May 16 with a successful three-day run at its new venue the Tokyo Metropolitan Industrial Trade Center Hamamatsucho-Kan. The event marked a strategic transformation from earlier iterations such as "Premium Textile Japan" (PTJ) and "JFW Japan Creation" (JFW-JC), now consolidated into a single comprehensive platform. The venue shift from the Tokyo International Forum and the extension of the event duration from two to three days were welcomed changes, reflecting JFWO’s commitment to innovation and evolution.
The new format was introduced in line with JFWO's 20th anniversary a timely milestone to launch a reimagined trade fair. The revamped event drew 83 exhibitors, an increase of about 20 per cent from PTJ’s previous spring edition. Among them were nine first-time participants, including four overseas companies making their Japan trade show debut, reflecting growing international interest. The visitor count also rose by 20 per cent, underscoring the show’s increased appeal. Organisers attributed this success to their philosophy of ‘constantly taking on new challenges’ and embracing change rather than repeating established formats.
Showcasing regional excellence and future innovations
A key highlight of TTS was the new ‘Focus on Textile Regions’ programme, which spotlighted Japan’s heritage in textile production. Based on insights from international luxury brands, the first instalment centred on denim a staple of Japanese textile excellence. Visitors experienced a virtual tour of denim factories through VR goggles, allowing them to immerse themselves in the production process, regardless of their geographical constraints. This novel approach received enthusiastic feedback and demonstrated how technology can bridge the gap between tradition and modernity.
Another new feature was the ‘What’s Next Scope’, a corner dedicated to innovation. It showcased emerging topics like Solament, a patented high-tech material by Sumitomo Metal Mining, and explored the role of Generative AI in fashion's future. The adjacent ‘What’s Next Seminar’ series featured five dynamic sessions, including ‘Scope on Denim: The Present and Future of Japan’s Denim Production Regions’ and a preview of ‘Premiere Vision Spring/Summer 2026 Fashion & Eco-Innovation.’ These sessions aimed to spark dialogue and encourage forward-thinking in the industry.
Sustainability and strategy take centre stage
The ‘What’s Next Textile’ exhibition, now in its fifth edition, featured 45 fabrics from 45 companies, drawing strong interest from buyers. Visitors were invited to vote for their favourite fabrics, which encouraged direct engagement and increased footfall at participating booths. Another continuing highlight was the ‘What’s Next Sustainable’ corner, which featured Mitsukoshi Isetan’s upcycling project ‘Peace de Mirai.’ These efforts reflect a broader industry trend: a shift from mere scale to meaningful storytelling and strategic content delivery.
As JFWO looks ahead, its focus remains on refining presentation techniques and enriching the visitor experience. With aspirations to rival international events like Premiere Vision in France and Milano Unica in Italy, TTS is poised to become a global textile hub. The next editions are scheduled for November 12–14, 2025, and April and October 2026, all at the same venue, signalling continuity and a strong foundation for future growth.
Bestseller is set to make a dynamic return to Copenhagen this August for CIFF 65, reaffirming its commitment to the Scandinavian fashion scene with a standout presence in Hall C Marking its third consecutive season at the fair, the Danish fashion group will spotlight six of its trend-forward brands: Pieces, Noisy May, JJXX, Object, Rouge Edit, and Y A S.
The curated collections will be revealed through immersive displays and engaging brand experiences, transforming Hall C into a high-energy space that fuses creativity with commerce. Bestseller’s return is expected to be a key highlight of CIFF 65, helping to shape upcoming seasonal trends and positioning the company as a central figure in Nordic fashion innovation.
Lars Pedersen, Regional Director and Executive Team Member at Bestseller, emphasized the importance of CIFF to the company’s European strategy, noting that it remains the only trade fair where Bestseller invests at such a scale. “It’s a strategic platform where we connect with partners, share our brand stories, and show our long-term commitment to this region,” he said.
CIFF Director Sofie Dolva welcomed the continued collaboration, highlighting the energy and innovation Bestseller brings to the event. “Their activation of space and ideas contributes to the fair’s creative and commercial pulse,” she said.
The partnership between CIFF and Bestseller reflects a shared vision to elevate the Nordic fashion community, offering a platform where inspiration, industry dialogue, and business growth converge under one roof.
Zalando has become an official member of Fair Wear, reinforcing its commitment to improving working conditions within its private label supply chain. The move marks a major step in the online fashion platform’s sustainability journey, aligning with global calls for greater accountability and systemic change in the fashion industry.
Fair Wear is a renowned multi-stakeholder organisation working to enhance labour rights across international supply chains. Zalando’s membership focuses specifically on its private label products, aiming to implement high standards of human rights due diligence and create real impact for garment workers.
“Zalando’s membership shows they’re committed to due diligence in their supply chain at a high-quality level, with actual impact for the people making our clothes,” said Alexander Kohnstamm, Director of External Affairs at Fair Wear.
Zalando's Sustainability Director, Pascal Brun, welcomed the partnership, emphasising that Fair Wear’s accountability framework complements Zalando’s values. The collaboration also provides access to tools like Fair Wear’s Human Rights Due Diligence (HRDD) Academy, which supports brands in developing effective practices to address labour rights challenges.
Beyond its private labels, Zalando is also encouraging partner brands on its retail platform to improve their own HRDD practices, fostering a ripple effect across the broader fashion ecosystem.
Fair Wear views Zalando’s membership as a catalyst for industry-wide collaboration and learning. As more fashion companies face pressure to act responsibly, Zalando’s decision signals a growing momentum toward ethical, transparent, and worker-centric supply chains.
Colombia’s leading fashion textile group, Manufacturas Eliot, has partnered with Coats Digital to implement VisionPLM a product lifecycle management solution designed specifically for the fashion industry. The move marks a strategic milestone in Eliot’s digital transformation journey, aimed at enhancing operational efficiency, boosting collaboration, and accelerating speed to market across its portfolio of brands: Patprimo, Seven Seven, Ostu, and Atmos.
Founded in 1957, Manufacturas Eliot produces over 20 million garments annually through its vertically integrated operations. The group is widely recognised for its commitment to accessible, high-quality fashion and is continuously investing in technologies that support sustainable, future-ready operations.
VisionPLM will centralise design, sourcing, and supplier collaboration into a single platform, offering greater traceability, faster development cycles, and more informed decision-making. This integrated solution is expected to streamline product development, cut response times, and strengthen communication across cross-functional teams.
Juliana Pérez, Design Director at Seven Seven, said the new system will allow design teams to manage collections more efficiently and enhance inter-departmental collaboration. Planning Director Angela Quevedo added that VisionPLM will improve information flow, boost operational coordination, and enable quicker decisions across the supply chain.
Oscar González of Coats Digital - LATAM noted that the deployment of VisionPLM reflects Eliot’s commitment to building a connected, agile operation that aligns with the fast-evolving demands of the global fashion market. He emphasized that the platform empowers Eliot to make smarter, faster decisions, reinforcing its strategy for innovation and long-term growth.
The 17th edition of HGH India, the country’s premier bi-annual trade show for home textiles, furniture, decor, houseware, and gifts, will take place from July 1–4, 2025, at the Bombay Exhibition Centre, Mumbai. With a renewed focus on sustainability and innovation, the event aims to reflect the evolving needs of the Indian home and lifestyle sector.
Organised by Texzone, HGH India has consistently served as a future-oriented platform, offering not just sourcing opportunities but also fostering industry dialogue, trend discovery, and knowledge sharing. The 2025 edition embraces sustainability as a central theme, featuring eco-conscious products such as biodegradable tableware, organically dyed textiles, recycled mattresses, and upcycled décor.
This year’s show will host over 700 Indian and international brands from 32 countries, including 100 new exhibitors, showcasing 2,500+ products across four halls. With over 45,000 expected trade visitors from 650 Indian cities and 33 countries, the event reflects the growing purchasing power and design awareness of Indian consumers.
HGH India’s curated experiences will include the Trends 2025–26 Pavilion themed “Emotion in Motion,” highlighting emerging colours, styles, and materials. The Gen Next Retail Leaders Forum will present insights from young designers under 30, while the H-Circle Product Innovation Awards will recognise sustainable and functional product innovations. The Indian Heritage Pavilion will connect traditional crafts with modern retail.
More than just a trade fair, HGH India creates a collaborative ecosystem for retailers, designers, manufacturers, importers, and policy influencers. It bridges general trade with modern retail and supports long-term growth in the home sector. As Indian homes continue to upgrade and consumer preferences shift toward value-driven and sustainable choices, HGH India remains a vital force in shaping industry direction.
Welspun Enterprises has approved the reappointment of Balkrishan Goenka as the company’s new Chairman (Executive)
The company has reappointed Goenka as a Whole-time Director for an additional one-year term, effective June 1, 2025, through May 31, 2026. He is not subject to retirement by rotation.
Similarly, it has reappointed Sandeep Garg as Managing Director for another one-year term, effective June 1, 2025, through May 31, 2026. However, he is subject to retirement by rotation.
As per Welspun Enterprises, neither Goenka nor Garg are directly related to other directors on the board, nor are they barred from serving as directors by any SEBI order or other regulatory authority.
A part of Welspun World, Welspun Enterprises is an infrastructure development firm that specializes in water, wastewater, and transportation projects.
Signaling a significant recovery in demand from key international markets, Sri Lanka's apparel industry recorded a 15.14 per cent Y-o-Y growth in April 2025.
Data from the Joint Apparel Association Forum (JAAF) shows, the nation’s exports to the EU (excluding the UK) increased by 27.04 per cent, while shipments to the US and UK grew by 6.83 per cent and 7.45 per cent, respectively. Exports to other regions rose by 21.18 per cent, highlighting the industry's expanding global presence.
In the first four months of 2025, Sri Lanka’s cumulative apparel exports increased by 12.4 per cent to $1.66 billion, compared to the same period last year. This growth was mainly led by the EU with an 18.13 per cent rise, followed by the US with 10.06 per cent, other markets 13.56 per cent, and the UK 6.26 per cent.
This growth occurred despite ongoing volatility in the global trade environment and changing consumer preferences, JAAF points out. The industry's strong performance underscores the flexibility of Sri Lankan manufacturers in adapting to evolving market trends while upholding high standards in quality, compliance, and sustainability.
This momentum reflects the tireless efforts of the country’s manufacturers, workers, and exporters in remaining globally competitive, states JAAF. These figures not only demonstrate resilience but also indicate the increasing recognition of Sri Lanka as a dependable source for ethical, high-value apparel.
As the industry continues to navigate complex macroeconomic and geopolitical challenges, JAAF reiterated its appeal for consistent policy support and stronger international trade connections to maintain growth and uncover new opportunities for value addition and innovation throughout the sector.
With textile mills increasingly favoring man-made fibers, India's cotton consumption for the current 2024-25 season is expected to decline by 2 per cent to 30.7 million bales (170 kg each), as per estimates by the Cotton Association of India (CAI).
From its earlier projection of 31.5 million, CAI recently reduced consumption estimates for the current year by 800,000 bales to 30.7 million.
Atul S Ganatra, President, CAI, attributes this to the rising use of man-made fibers such as viscose and polyester by spinning mills, particularly in South India. Also, a severe shortage of laborers is causing spinning mills to operate at slower capacities, further contributing to the decline in cotton use, he notes.
Textile mills are registering better profit margins with viscose, at around 98 per cent, compared to cotton, which yields about 73-75 per cent, explains Ganatra. This is another key reason mills are shifting away from cotton to other fibers, hurting overall consumption.
CAI estimates, cotton crop size during the 2024-25 season to be around 29.135 million bales (170 kg each). By April-end, the total cotton supply was estimated at 32.589 million bales. This includes 26.82 million bales from presses, 2.75 million bales of imports, and opening stocks of 3.019 million bales.
Consumption through April was estimated at 18.5 million bales, with exports at 1 million bales (170 kg). Cotton stocks at the end of April were estimated at 13.089 million bales, comprising 3.5 million bales held by textile mills and the remaining 9.589 million bales with the Cotton Corporation of India, Maharashtra Federation, and other entities (multinational corporations, traders, ginners, exporters), including cotton already sold but not yet delivered.
For the 2024-25 season, the CAI projects India’s cotton imports to increase by 1.78 million bales to 3.3 million bales. Exports for the season are estimated to decline by 2.836 million bales to 1.5 million bales.
Finally, the carryover stocks are estimated to increase from 3.019 million bales last year to 3.254 million bales in the 2025-26 season.
Denim Premiere Vision returned to Milan for its fourth consecutive edition, delivering two days of inspiring insights, innovative products, and valuable networking for the denim industry. Organized by GL events fashion division, the event attracted nearly 2,100 international professionals representing over 1,000 companies, alongside more than 80 exhibitors and 16 brands. Attendees eagerly explored the Fall-Winter 26-27 trends, discovering the latest advancements in denim manufacturing and sustainability.
Global industry leaders gather to showcase excellence
Fabio Adami Dalla Val, Show Manager of Denim Premiere Vision, highlighted the event’s growing prestige: “This edition brought together major players from the denim industry and offered an exceptionally high-quality selection, showcasing the best manufacturers from Italy, Japan, Turkey, and Morocco. The show’s success confirms our ambition to make it a premium and demanding event, centered around business development opportunities for the community.”
Exhibitors came from across the globe, including Italy, Turkey, Japan, Morocco, the United States, China, and France, displaying the newest denim innovations. Sixteen brands presented finished products within Milan’s Fashion District, offering a direct glimpse into upcoming seasonal trends. A dedicated Trend Forum focused on ‘Hybrid Denim,’ reflecting evolving consumer preferences and fabric technology.
The event also featured a rich program of eight expert-led conferences and a pitch stage with 12 presentations from exhibitors. Over 450 participants attended these sessions, gaining valuable knowledge on market dynamics, sustainability, and cutting-edge textile technologies.
Innovation and sustainability at the forefront
Denim Première Vision placed strong emphasis on innovation with a dedicated pitch stage spotlighting future-focused technologies. Among the highlights were DyeMate’s new responsible dyeing methods, which aim to reduce environmental impact, and RUDOLF’s breakthrough in dry denim washing using a fully biodegradable bio-abrasive made from food waste, setting new standards for eco-friendly processes in denim production.
For the first time, the Moroccan Association of Textile and Apparel Industries (AMITH) showcased Morocco’s textile modernization efforts. With a skilled and integrated workforce, proximity to Europe, and a strong commitment to sustainability, Morocco is positioning itself as a strategic and cost-effective sourcing destination for international brands.
Additionally, the Leonardo da Vinci Museum of Science and Technology hosted a fashion show featuring Bangladeshi Pioneer Denim, returning for the third consecutive year and recognized as a key player in the global denim market. A networking cocktail event with industry veteran Adriano Goldschmied fostered meaningful business exchanges among participants.
Strengthening Italian industry connections and sustainability initiatives
Around 60 percent of visitors hailed from Italy, underscoring Denim Première Vision’s strong roots and partnerships within the country. Beyond the main venue at Superstudio Più, the event extended its influence by collaborating closely with Italian stakeholders to promote excellence across the denim supply chain.
In partnership with Officina39, a leader in sustainable textile innovation, Denim Premiere Vision offered an exclusive media experience featuring a guided tour of Officina39’s showroom and lab in Biella. This was followed by a lunch and a private visit to Cittadellarte - Fondazione Pistoletto, fostering a deep appreciation for Italy’s sustainable fashion efforts.
In April, the Rudolf Hub 1922 hosted the F U T U R E dinner, a special event co-created with Premiere Vision. This gathering brought together top industry leaders, innovative brands, and academic experts for an evening of inspiring dialogue, blending industrial innovation with artistic vision and sustainable development challenges.
Denim Premiere Vision’s 2025 edition reinforced the importance of collaboration, innovation, and sustainability in shaping the future of denim, confirming its status as a must-attend event for professionals committed to advancing the global denim industry.
