FW
Sri Lanka needs to diversify its exports. In 2016 half of Sri Lanka’s total revenues were from the textile and garment sector and this ratio has remained the same for several years as Sri Lanka's export basket has not changed much since the 1990s.
If Sri Lanka is to substantially increase export revenues, diversifying to new sectors is the key to success. Similarly diversification of markets is also a priority for Sri Lanka.
While the UK is currently an important market for Sri Lanka, with Brexit becoming a reality, Sri Lanka will benefit if it also focuses attention on accessing non-traditional markets among the EU countries. This will not only cushion the potential negative impact of Brexit on Sri Lanka but will also help contribute towards the country’s target of doubling its export revenues.
The EU aims to support Sri Lanka’s economic growth by launching a series of initiatives which includes: support to design and implement a coherent trade strategy for export competitiveness, support for trade policy development and regulatory reforms, enhancement of Sri Lanka's WTO trade negotiations capacity, support Sri Lanka's regional integration process and help Sri Lanka maximize the use of the EU GSP Plus scheme when it is granted.
Bangladesh's apparel manufacturers are increasingly adapting modern technologies to enhance productivity, deliver products on time and meet demand for finer quality products from international retailers and brands. A few local fabrics makers have gone one step further by using robotic apparel technology and machinery.
Envoy Textiles (ETL) is one such denim fabrics manufacturer using robotic machinery to raise output and improve the quality of their products. As Kutubuddin Ahmed, Chairman of the Envoy Group points out, the use of robotic technology ensures higher productivity and good quality of yarn. Although the initial investment in sophisticated technologies is high, at the end of the day it is feasible for us, thanks to increased productivity and improved quality.
The world's first platinum rated Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED) certified denim factory, ETL installed the robotic machinery in its spinning section in October last year to enhance sophistication in yarn production. The company, set up in 2008 in Bhaluka, produces four million yards of denim fabric a month and employs 2,400 people. Besides using many other latest technologies and machinery for spinning and weaving, ETL has employed 14 robotic autoconers in spinning and rotor at its Bhaluka factory to produce 55 tonnes of denim yarn per day, disclosed Ahmed.
Meanwhile, in next one year, the company plans to set up a denim garment manufacturing plant on ETL's premises or near the denim spinning and fabrics manufacturing plant -- to produce clothing items using its own fabrics. Around Taka 50 crores would be invested to set up the proposed factory. Currently, ETL supplies yarn and fabrics to local and international buyers. The company exports yarn and fabrics to over 10 countries.
Meet the Manufacturer, the only major sourcing event specifically for British manufacturers of clothing, textiles, leather goods and homeware, is back with a new season and this time Elite Labels is the headline sponsor.
Kate Hills, CEO and Founder, Make it British, has explained in a press statement that as Elite Labels supplies to everyone starting from the smallest of start-ups to the largest and most prestigious names in retailing, it makes them the perfect headline sponsor. On the other hand, Elite Label, which was the exhibitor for the last two times, are keen to get more involved in the event this year. They have chosen to become the sponsor this year, as this is the right time to get associated with the event as British bands have now become fully aware of the value of manufacturing in the UK, Shafique Hussein, Director, Elite Labels, has asserted in a recent interaction.
The event, which is scheduled on 24 and 25 May at the Old Truman Brewery, London, is expecting more than 5000 visitors this year. This year’s programme includes free drop-in workshops and seminars plus over 150 exhibitors showcasing some of the top knitters, weavers, tanneries, leather goods makers, CMT units and homeware factories in Britain today. New for this year is a Make it British brands hall, dedicated to a carefully curated selection of British-made brands. Altogether, over 150 exhibitors will be showcasing the best of British clothing manufacturers, textile mills, leather-goods makers, homeware designers and suppliers to the UK apparel and textile industry.
Cambodia’s economy is expected to grow by 7.1 per cent this year. Growth would be driven by garment and footwear exports, construction and real estate, tourism and a moderate recovery in agricultural production.
Growth in industry is projected at a slightly higher than 10.8 per cent this year, supported by higher growth in major industrial countries and some diversification into products with higher value added such as garments, footwear, light manufacturing and electronics.
The service sector is forecast to expand by 6.7 per cent, driven by buoyant domestic demand and tourism, while agriculture is expected to grow by 1.8 per cent, assuming favorable weather. While the short-term economic growth outlook for the Cambodian economy remains strong, labor costs and skills shortages are increasing.
There is a need to lower the cost of doing business and improve productivity growth and competitiveness. Domestic risks stem from vulnerabilities in the financial sector, partly traceable to its rapid expansion, in particular the proliferation of microfinance institutions.
On the external front risks are: weaker growth in the euro area, a sharper-than-expected global tightening of credit, and a surge in the dollar, which could constrain exports and stiffen competition from other low-cost producers.
Australia's cotton crop is set to reach near-record levels next season as significantly good returns prod farmers to continue increasing sowings, a US officials disclosed. The US Department of Agriculture's bureau in Canberra forecast 2017-18 cotton production at 5.0 m bales, up from 4.6m bales in the previous season due to attractive cotton prices, cheap water and strong overseas demand. These factors encouraged Australian cotton growers to increase plantings for the 2017-18 season and the share of dry land cotton has increased significantly," the bureau reported.
Cotton production is now forecast at the second highest level on record, representing a huge increase from the crop of just 2.30 m bales recorded during the 2014-15 crop year. The recent boom in production is due to increased area, as farmers increase plantings following good returns, with harvested area also producing near record levels. Cotton exports from Australia are forecast at 4.8m bales in 2017-18, up 600,000 bales year-on-year, following greater production and strong international demand.
China is still expected to remain the key destination for Australian exports but the bureau noted high levels of stocks have reduced demand in recent years. However, new demand is emerging from the Indian textile industry. Nearly 25 per cent of exports during 2016-17 went to India, as against just 2 to 3 per cent in during the previous years.
Dubai’s apparel and footwear market accounts for the largest share of the Emirate’s retail sector. Apparel leads the category with a 73 per cent market share, followed by footwear (18 per cent) and sportswear (nine per cent). This trend is expected to continue through 2021, leading the category to achieve a projected compound annual growth rate of 3.4 per cent in the medium term.
Demand within this segment was supported last year by value offerings from retailers, particularly during shopping festivals and sales events. Easing of UAE visa regulations to some countries is expected to drive tourism, which will likely have a positive impact on Dubai's retail market as the emirate prepares to attract up to 20 million tourists annually by 2020.
This trend will result in a change in the demographic and characteristics of visitors. So retailers in the Emirate will need to adjust and expand their offerings to cater to diverse consumer groups.
Dubai’s global air connectivity and its growing stature as a hub for trade between the East and West, has clearly given an added impetus to the retail sector. Dubai continues to remain the clear destination of choice for the majority of the brands looking to enter the region for the first time, frequently using the emirate as a stepping stone to wider regional expansion programs.
Adidas has unveiled the world's first high performance footwear featuring midsoles crafted with light and oxygen using Digital Light Synthesis. The footwear is named Futurecraft 4D. The midsole was brought to functional reality through a pioneering digital footwear component creation process that eliminated the necessity for traditional prototyping or moulding.
Digital Light Synthesis is a breakthrough process that uses digital light projection, oxygen-permeable optics and programmable liquid resins to generate high-performance, durable polymeric products. Futurecraft 4D is Adidas' first application of Digital Light Synthesis and represents the brand's step into athlete-data driven design and manufacturing.
Unlike any traditional manufacturing technology, Digital Light Synthesis allows Adidas to precisely address the needs of each athlete with regard to movement, cushioning, stability and comfort with one single component.
This new take on manufacturing enables Adidas to bring even the most intricate designs into physical reality. It overcomes the shortcomings of conventional additive manufacturing methods such as low production speed and scale, poor surface quality, and color and material restrictions. Without these limitations posed by traditional production methods, Adidas can now bring the best and most innovative products to consumers faster than ever.
Adidas, based in Germany, is a global leader in the sporting goods industry with core brands Adidas and Reebok.
"Pure London, the premium event for progressive fashion buyers, introduced an inspiring curated line-up of women’s wear, footwear and accessories brands for its forthcoming show. These include exclusive brands, up-coming and established designers with buyer favourites such as United Nude, O’Neill, Irregular Choice, Ebarrito, King Louie, Emily & Fin, Thought, Joe Browns, Noa Noa, Ying Cai etc. Taking over the vast Grand Hall at London Olympia from February 11-13, the curated show sectors will deliver a stunning range of collections selected to match buyers needs."
Pure London, the premium event for progressive fashion buyers, introduced an inspiring curated line-up of women’s wear, footwear and accessories brands for its forthcoming show. These include exclusive brands, up-coming and established designers with buyer favourites such as United Nude, O’Neill, Irregular Choice, Ebarrito, King Louie, Emily & Fin, Thought, Joe Browns, Noa Noa, Ying Cai etc. Taking over the vast Grand Hall at London Olympia from February 11-13, the curated show sectors will deliver a stunning range of collections selected to match buyers needs.
Designers’ delightful creations
This is the first trade show for Siah Howard, one of London’s leading Atelier Couture designers known for her impeccable style and taste. Her distinctive signature is of understated elegance, sophistication and balance, using the most luxurious fabrics and exquisite embellishments. Another London brand showing for the first time is Andaj London, a new handmade fashion label producing high quality women’s coats crafted by skilled women using high quality fabrics such as leather, cashmere, angora and wool. Four exciting brands showing in the UK for the first time are German brand Gipsy 2.0, Italian designer Virna Dro, Jalabiyé from Istanbul, and from South Africa Geo by George.
With over 40 years of experience in leather outerwear, Gipsy 2.0 brings its latest sustainably sourced collection and classic leather, suede and lambskin jackets to Pure London. Jalabiyé is an eco-responsible high-end brand designed for modern and spiritual woman. Creating a platform for the Middle Eastern and European woman to meet in dialogue, Jalabiyé aims to break the traditional code of modest fashion, and focuses on natural fibres such as cashmere, wool, silk and cotton. The Geo by George label creates timeless ready-to-wear pieces for the individual women that want to look stylish and effortless every day. Established in 2017 by George Sander, Geo by George presents its first Cruise 2018 collection at Pure London. Distinguished craftsmanship and hilarious fantasies combine under the direction of Italian designer Virna Dro’.
Meanwhile, award-winning South African women’s wear brand, Tamara Chérie, offers a minimal, structured approach to her luxury ready-to-wear collection of soft tailoring and refined silhouettes. Other Premium brands include Jane Lushka, Argiddo and Carla Ruiz, The Cocoonalist, Divas, Ribes of Love, An Rheas, Coster Copenhagen, Choiboko, Yerse, Rino & Pelle, Bitte kai Rand, Jessica Russell Flint Design, URBAHIA, Isabel de Pedro, Zambak, Beate Heymann, Silvian Heach, Esmeralda, Tahlia, Dixie, Animapop, Denim Studio, Dina Shaker, KARMA KOMA, Coosy, Ying Cai, Millie & Elizabeth, Denim Hunter, and The O Boutique.
Athleisure on demand
The ever-growing athleisure section showcases the latest ranges in activewear, yoga wear, swimwear and underwear. Brand new in the UK market, from Australia, Free Spirit is an Ethical Yoga Wear brand show casing their collection of 100 per cent sustainable, organic cotton & bamboo tanks, tees and sweats, while an eclectic mix of statement leggings complete the studio to street look. Chikirina a hybrid active/swim/lifestyle brand offering ‘live-in’ multi-functional items that can transition from gym to street, street to beach, and day to night. Holidolls is a spectacular new swimwear line designed to impress and made to show off curves. Stunningly sexy and daring ‘swimgerie’ is handmade and embellished by Italian craftsman.
New premium accessories brand Emma & Chloe joins the line-up, as does ‘build your own bag’ brand O Bag, specialising in customisable handbags and watches, enabling customers to choose the body, handles, interior, exterior trims and additional accessories to create a truly unique bag. For stylish and practical lifestyle travel accessories look out for Frequent Flyer. Its simple designs and functional details are the best fit for modern travellers. The collection contains six travel necessities including a trolley, a large backpack, a small backpack, a large pouch, a small pouch and a camera case.
"Hennes & Mauritz AB recently set the next milestone with a pledge to use only recycled or green materials in its products by 2030. Crafted in 2016, Sustainability Report, H&M will work towards reducing greenhouse gas emissions, aiming to be climate positive throughout its entire value chain by 2040. The retailer has been on green initiatives spree for quite sometime now and there’s no looking back. In the same vein, Inditex also unveiled a major program last year, including the development of new textile fibers and a wide-scale domestic recycling project."
Hennes & Mauritz AB recently set the next milestone with a pledge to use only recycled or green materials in its products by 2030. Crafted in 2016, Sustainability Report, H&M will work towards reducing greenhouse gas emissions, aiming to be climate positive throughout its entire value chain by 2040. The retailer has been on green initiatives spree for quite sometime now and there’s no looking back. In the same vein, Inditex also unveiled a major program last year, including the development of new textile fibers and a wide-scale domestic recycling project.
H&M’s long route to meet sustainability standards
H&M launched the Conscious Collection in 2011, using sustainable materials such as organic cotton, organic linen, Tencel and recycled polyester. This was followed by a garment collection program that allows customers to drop off used clothing at its stores in 2013. According to Anna Gedda, Head–Sustainability, H&M, interest in sustainability is increasing all over, from customers to shareholders to other brands and other actors within the industry and the efforts have been appreciable. Environmental group Greenpeace has rated H&M and Inditex among the front-runners in its ‘Detox My Fashion’ campaign. Together with Benetton, they were awarded ‘avant-garde’ status last year for their progress toward the goal of eliminating hazardous chemicals from the manufacture of clothes by 2020.
H&M reported that recycled and other sustainably sourced materials accounted for 26 per cent of the textiles used in its products last year. But Gedda said supply of sustainable materials was insufficient for future industry needs. There is a need to expand and scale up more sustainable cotton cultivation that takes place today, both including organic but also better cotton, and then invest in a lot more innovation. For example, making new products out of old ones is done on a limited scale. Companies can do it with denim but because the fiber is so delicate, they need to blend in new material as well. In future, H&M only wants to use old fibers, Gedda explained.
To keep up with sustainable practices, H&M has been meeting entrepreneurs developing technology concepts that make the clothing industry more sustainable. H&M has so far collected 39,000 tons of unwanted textiles through its stores, equivalent to 196 million T-shirts, according to Gedda. By 2020, it aims to collect at least 25,000 tonne of textiles every year, up from 16,000 in 2016. Becoming 100 percent circular, of course, involves more than just materials: It involves how the products are designed, how the material is processed and also how the product is used by the consumer and what happens with the material afterwards, she added.
Setting site on climate goals
To achieve its climate goal, H&M will focus on energy efficiency, renewable energy and compensating for unavoidable emissions with efforts to boost the planet’s climate resilience and support so-called carbon sinks, projects such as forests that capture carbon or other global-warming pollutants from the atmosphere. The company also pledged to switch to 100 per cent renewable electricity. Last year, 96 per cent of its global electricity in its own operations came from renewable sources, up from 78 per cent in 2015. H&M is not passing on the extra cost of more sustainable materials to its customers. The company has been working with organic cotton for a really long time, and that extra price is not paid by the consumer but by the company. For H&M, it is simply an investment in the product and what customers expect from the company, said Gedda.
Bangalore is gearing up to host Planet Textiles on May 24, 2017. The event is about sustainability and social compliance in the textile sector. This time, Timberland and Thread will give a joint presentation on their collaboration in poverty stricken Haiti where Thread shipped nearly 2,00,000 lbs of recycled plastic out of the country to eventually be processed into textiles, garments and footwear which in turn has provided employment for poor local families in the country.
Water availability, costs, efficiency and environmental solutions in textile dyeing and wastewater discharge; water use, disposal, and remediation in the denim industry; water conservation in wet processing, wastewater discharge in the textile supply chain, the circular economy and the rise of environmental awareness in India will dominate this year’s Planet Textiles summit.
From 2017, Planet Textiles will focus more on implementation and practical side of sustainability in the textile supply chain with real-world case studies and examples of best practice. Use of water in growing cotton will feature strong at the event. India happens to be the world’s largest cotton producer.
The ZDHC Group will reveal results of pilot tests of studies done at textile mills that have adopted its pioneering wastewater discharge guidelines. This year’s event partner will be leading manmade cellulosic fiber supplier Lenzing, which will unveil its latest sustainability report.
