FW
Post NYFW, New York Men's Fashion is coming into its own with strong performance and it will be exciting to see the creative talent in American menswear industry with inspiring collections and trends that will be presented during the Men's Spring/Summer'18 Collections of ‘PROJECT and MRket’. The show will run from July 16 to 18, bringing a distinct approach to fashion trends where menswear designers, legendary brands bound to impress, and designer collections will be on display along with live model catwalk. This event that will be held at the Jacob Javits Center, will have a heightened focus on retailers.
‘PROJECT and MRket’ offers an introspective look into market trends allowing buyers to shop for what's next in menswear lifestyle category presenting new and emerging designers for men. Showcasing brands, including Jean Lorent, Stolen Riches, STANTT and Avenue 33.
PROJECT continues to support and foster emerging designers through its ongoing partnership with Parsons School of Design. The 'Next In Class' program is a unique opportunity for emerging designers as it provides a platform for recent Parsons BFA graduates, arming them with the educational experience and exposure to break into the marketplace.
Additional highlights of the show include: live presentations on July 17th on the floor that will feature Vilebrequin; Jack Victor, Vince, Blue@PROJECT and MOVE. The #BloggerProject presented by Marcus Troy is a curated content experience that bridges the gap between digital influencers and brands. Cadillac returns for the 5th season as the official partner of PROJECT New York providing VIP retailers and media with car service to and from the show.
Swedish global clothing maker H&M is looking at entering the growing manufacturing sector in Ethiopia, as Sweden is looking at enhancing its economic ties with Ethiopia. Many Swedish companies were interested in coming to Ethiopia and among them H&M has shown a keen interest in entering the Ethiopian textile industry. The fact that the late athletics legend Abebe Bekila was trained by Swedish experts demonstrates the strong historical ties of the two countries, the Ambassador noted.
This hopefully will be important in terms of raising hard currency, catalysing the industrial development of Ethiopia and in creating massive jobs. Ethiopia and Sweden have many global issues to hold-on actively, including climate change, migration and global peace and security. As Ethiopia and Sweden are currently non-permanent members of the United Nations Security Council (UNSC), they felt that is was the right time to act jointly to promote climate smart economy, peace and stability, globally.
Currently, the bilateral relationship is linked to investment and common global concerns. The Swedish government has approved a development cooperation to Ethiopia valued at a billion Krone during the 2016 to 2020 period.
The itnflux of global retailers into Australia will continue over the coming years, while international brands that have already set up shop here are expected to expand into more cities, as per a new report from CBRE.
The boom in online shopping and Amazon’s entrance into the marketplace have made brick and mortar retailers a worried lot and this is forcing them to brighten up their stores and offer extensive range with competitive pricing. But according to CBRE, the real estate company, local retailers have been struggling to compete just on price and are being forced out of best locations and spaces.
Australia is an attractive place for international retailers due to healthy population and economic growth. Sales productivity of new entrants has proven that Australians are eager for new retailers, besides Australia ranks among the top performance countries for some of these global retailers who have already launched here. The Australian stores of international brands such as Zara and H&M Australia, have gained among the highest store sales performance in their global portfolio over the past three years, contends a senior research manager from CBRE.
Since 2012, most international brands that have entered the Australian market have come from Europe and most are fashion oriented. In the last five years, 44 global retailers have launched in Melbourne, 44 in Sydney and 19 in Brisbane and this will increase over the next three to five years, as per the research data.
H&M recently announced it would open regional stores in Townsville and Rockhampton as well as an online store that will back its physical presence in Australia. Uniqlo, which already has an established online presence in Australia is also expected to expand its stores in the country. Last month the popular Japanese clothing brand indicated interest in opening an outlet in New Zealand.
Bangladesh Apparel Exchange (BAE), a private initiative to promote Bangladesh apparel industry is going to organise a workshop on how to develop an apparel brand. The day-long workshop “How to build your own apparel brand and directly address European and US Consumers” will be held on July 29 in Dhaka.
The objective of the workshop is to disseminate knowledge on how to develop the next growth strategy of Bangladesh’s apparel sector by putting up new designs to locally owned products and making them stand out as an international brand, which will facilitate a direct sale to Western consumers. Participants can gain insight on how global renowned brands are conceptualised and designed. It will also help create own brand and offer e-commerce opportunities.
Founder and chief executive officer of BAE Mostafiz Uddin says Bangladesh is the second largest exporter of clothing for global retailers such as Zara, H&M, Marks & Spencer, Gap and more. BAE has taken the initiative to share experience and advice for building a brand from purpose to product for entrepreneurs, fashion aspirants and everyone with a dream to build their own brad, said Mostafiz.
By creating brands, Bangladesh can increase profit margin by utilising the strength and intelligence of local business, which would impact Bangladesh’s economy largely. The workshop will help kick off next growth strategy by providing insight into designing own brand and selling it directly to western wholesalers and end consumers.
The overall export earnings was $34.83 billion, which is 1.68 per cent higher than $34.25 billion a year ago. Bangladesh should focus on high-end products to come out of the sluggish export growth, says Mostafiz the managing director of Denim Expert.
"Textiles and Accessories Trade Show, held from July 11 – 13, recorded over 6,000 exhibitors showcasing high-end collections for the Fall/Winter 2018/2019 season. International exhibitors mainly came from: Netherlands (+46 per cent), Portugal (42 per cent), Germany (+32 per cent), Russian Federation (+32 per cent), Spain (+28 per cent), USA (+26 per cent), UK (+20 per cent), France (+15 per cent) and Turkey (+11 per cent). Conversely, the number of Italian businesses and mills from the Far East countries and, especially, China, slightly decreased."
Textiles and Accessories Trade Show, held from July 11 – 13, recorded over 6,000 exhibitors showcasing high-end collections for the Fall/Winter 2018/2019 season. International exhibitors mainly came from: Netherlands (+46 per cent), Portugal (42 per cent), Germany (+32 per cent), Russian Federation (+32 per cent), Spain (+28 per cent), USA (+26 per cent), UK (+20 per cent), France (+15 per cent) and Turkey (+11 per cent). Conversely, the number of Italian businesses and mills from the Far East countries and, especially, China, slightly decreased. However, these countries will have another opportunity at the October edition in Shanghai.
The XXV edition of Milano Unica, was organized with the support of Italian Ministry for Economic Development and ICE Agency, its operating arm, included 456 exhibitors which his 20 per cent over September 2016 edition . Nearly 145 businesses participated in the Japan and Korea Observatories and in Origin Passion and Beliefs, totaling 601 exhibitors.
The opening ceremony
The opening ceremony, introduced by Ercole Botto Poala, President of Milano Unica, was attended by the Ivan Scalfarotto, Deputy Secretary for Economic Development; Giuseppe Sala, the Mayor of Milan; Michele Scannavini, President of ICE Agency and Claudio Marenzi, President of SMI. “We took a chance and were rewarded by the market. The day before the opening I would have considered a 10 per cent decline in attendance successful, but instead, results are in line with the September 2016 edition, thanks, especially, to the good performance in terms of the participation of international buyers. The doubling of their visiting time is the true confirmation of the strategic importance of the anticipated dates. A winning move that was well received by our exhibitors and we are grateful to have the chance to make this available to the entire Made-in-Italy supply chain,” said Poala.
He said next year the show will take place from July 10-12. Poala reiterated the need for taking necessary risks as entrepreneurs, to face the emerging and rapid changes in the market. He said errors can occur when one tries new things, but it is much worse to hold one’s ground and refuse to implement new innovative solutions..
Concluding remarks
The general satisfaction recorded among exhibitors and visitors regarding the quality of the offering and services provided was good. “We know we can count on a proven team that does not fear innovation. Also, we can count on the collaboration and flexibility of our suppliers and, in particular, of Fiera Milano. And, last but not least, we can always count on the support of ICE Agency, which, on the occasion, also ensured the participation of an important delegation of buyers coming from China, Japan, Korea, USA and Russia,” said Massimo Mosiello, General Director of Milano Unica, Head of Operations of the textiles and accessories trade show since the first edition. The 12th edition of Milano Unica China will be held from October 11-13, 2017 in Shanghai and the 26th edition of Milano Unica will be held February 6-8, 2018 at Fieramilano Rho.
"Small Orders is a buyer-oriented online sourcing platform creating new business opportunities and flexibility for direct sourcing of quality products in small quantities. With 50 years experience in connecting global buyers and suppliers, the Hong Kong Trade Development Council (HKTDC) understands the importance of trust in online sourcing. With suppliers’ information being authenticated and their certificates being verified, buyers can relax knowing well they are dealing with trustworthy companies when they source quality products, or services thus creating new business opportunities and flexibility in direct sourcing of quality products from the Small-Order Zone."
Small Orders is a buyer-oriented online sourcing platform creating new business opportunities and flexibility for direct sourcing of quality products in small quantities. With 50 years experience in connecting global buyers and suppliers, the Hong Kong Trade Development Council (HKTDC) understands the importance of trust in online sourcing. With suppliers’ information being authenticated and their certificates being verified, buyers can relax knowing well they are dealing with trustworthy companies when they source quality products, or services thus creating new business opportunities and flexibility in direct sourcing of quality products from the Small-Order Zone.
Focus on Small Order Zone’s
Highlights of this zone are: High quality products from trustworthy and reliable suppliers; Unit price and MOQ readily available; Instant payment and shipping arrangement available for selected products; Direct dealing with verified suppliers; ‘Buy Now’ services are available for selected products for instant orders and payment and; online payment is processed and protected by PayPal.
HKTDC has recognised the need and the enigmatic power of this emerging trend. Therefore, it also goes without saying that ‘Small Order Zone’ is the most timely initiative of this global event and continues to be the focus area for the organisers for the last couple of show. It surely has caught the fancy of buyers with features like quick turnaround time to reduce inventory and save operational costs. HKTDC has taken the initiative to serve as a convenient platform for buyers to source in smaller quantities ranging between 5 to 1000 pieces per order.
Feedback records, ‘Small Orders zone is excellent. All markets are not as big when compared to the US or Western Europe, so having products available in small quantities allows buyers to source a greater variety of items at an affordable price.’ So for niche buyers, small boutiques and fashionistas among others, it is great news. As this differentiated approach helps them reduce business risk/inventory carrying cost and hedges them against long term uncertainty and this makes it a viable proposition and ensures sustainable business profits and for the end consumer it can create wow factor.
Case in point is wonderfully curated women lingerie where every single piece is uniquely different and is delectably exquisite. Such as Tung Shun Manufacturing that had been displayed in this exciting section.
"With wool just being 2% of textile industry things are not really hunky dory for merino wool especially when it is ambitiously looking for growth and incremental rise in its global outreach & status. Moreover in the ever connected world collaboration is the key, says Alex Lai, GM Technical (Greater China & Emerging Markets Asia) on the sidelines of HKFW Spring/ Summer 2017. Handshake with all the forces in textile fibre trade is the way forward."
With wool just being 2% of textile industry things are not really hunky dory for merino wool especially when it is ambitiously looking for growth and incremental rise in its global outreach & status. Moreover in the ever connected world collaboration is the key, says Alex Lai, GM Technical (Greater China & Emerging Markets Asia) on the sidelines of HKFW Spring/ Summer 2017. Handshake with all the forces in textile fibre trade is the way forward. Therefore, the technical product development team at ‘The Woolmark Company’ is currently hands full in terms of working with global brands of repute across the product category. So against the given backdrop having a global resource center housed in a majestic building and environs overseeing the pristine sea, and also this hub is a home to many global players likes of Li & Fung, Levi’s and Adidas to name a few all in the close vicinity. Putting the facts in context this Lab shall oversee the biggest global market in the whole world for wool processing in the form of Chinese market which accounts for over 75% of global processing, followed by distant 2nd in the form of Indian processing facilities which roughly contributes to 8% of the global wool processing. According to Alex global demographics is something which can be characterized as EU likes wool, China again cherishes wool
US compared to their market size disproportionately are not as wool hungry ‘all thanks to not so easy care’ what they look for in any general product/ garment. Therefore to try and seek the over trading of this fiber Woolmark is very consciously looking to break ground in research and development ensuring wool need not required to be dry cleaned in every single article it produces.
Speaking aloud he says we are already broken an ice with fledgling denim industry, and quite a few article out of years long research and development have seen broad day light and more is waiting to be tapped. Also in footwear segment out of the box developments engaging global front-line brands like Adidas has resulted in spectacular work, which going forward shall start meeting the eye, opines confident Alex. The ground breaking work doesn’t just end here. The wool which is generally characterized by good breath ability, water repellent property, reasonably decent moisture management etc. is been opportunistically exploited.
To catch the global users fancy it has taken a route of top down approach wherein they are sensibly pushing brands to come on the board to influence the lower end of the retail pyramid. And in the changing paradigm aspirational brands are become the brand ambassadors/ endorsers for this wonder fiber. As this is converging to the brands’ incremental need and compulsion to look & supply beyond the obvious. And this brings them and woolmark on the same page. Resultant discoveries are there to see such as amazingly interesting pure wool wind cheaters, sport goods, out of the box fashion accessories etc. to create a differentiated proposition for brands which always clamor for something beyond ordinary.
Look no further woolmark lab’s open door policy & awesome team spirit is helping brands push all the boundaries and spring surprises ‘spring season in season out’ (and that is what the management is vying for since a while now) and new normal is that wool is not only for Winter season but it is all season wonder now and is a divine boon to the textile industry.
Not only that it is treading on less travelled roads viz. sectors like sportswear, circular/ flat knitting in Tees, and Travel shirts, as it doesn’t crumple so easily and recovers wrinkles faster than many other fibers to occasionally replace performance fabrics. Also wool is trying to foray in areas where there are lot of traction segments like casual and smart dressing & seeking to veer away from its existing ‘only formal segment image’. Fashion accessories are another area where it is attempting its bit to gain incremental footing for instance ties, socks, stolls and shawls. Besides in applications like Upholstery, pillows and other unconventional media such as blending successfully with paper is breaking wool free. Therefore it is no gainsaying wool is set to soar new heights.
You can also swear by its ecofriendly nature something lately has caught the fancy of millennial/ new age evolving consumer. And initiatives like eco-indexing to figure out how conscious, responsible and sustainable any brand is making a strong case for wool. So this versatile fabric is a true homage to human endeavour and enduring quest for sustainable life.
All above cannot really happen but by taking all the stakeholders on the board viz. Designers, Machinery/ Technology providers/ Brands and garmenters and so and so forth. Here Alex was more than generous in his acknowledgement to extend gratitude to Shima Seiki in particular for its support & co-operation.
Trade Dynamics
Price is another barrier which restrains the democratization of wool, so here again wool is gaining currency because of the basic approach of trying to ramp up the scales in every single article it diversifies to. As a matter of fact lately the wool prices have firmed on the back of some of changing habits of Chinese buyers and users (where the propensity of per head consumption has suddenly gone northwards). Unfortunately it is a short term deterrent for global wool trade dynamics. Additionally in perpetuity the supply conundrum i.e. continuous toss between whether to supply meat/ wool going in the minds of ‘Australian wool growers’ creates a state of quandary. But that been mentioned the wool supply remains more or less stable, so much so that Woolmark is trying aggressively pull and push technique to widen and deepen its base within the T&C space, and yet true to its inherent positioning it remains broadly a niche and protected fiber.
"Successful deals in the unpredictable world of US fashion are rare, and look even less likely to succeed as sales dip across the board. Cost savings can be counterproductive if it means squeezing money out of marketing and design, and buyers are risking on a style that can easily go out of favour. Therefore, established brands like Abercrombie are finding it difficult to take the mergers and acquisitions (M&A) route."
Successful deals in the unpredictable world of US fashion are rare, and look even less likely to succeed as sales dip across the board. Cost savings can be counterproductive if it means squeezing money out of marketing and design, and buyers are risking on a style that can easily go out of favour. Therefore, established brands like Abercrombie are finding it difficult to take the mergers and acquisitions (M&A) route. Neil Saunders, MD, GlobalData Retail, says often, as one spends money to buy the brand or business, one also has to spend more to do something strategic that will propel growth, and that means paying twice before getting returns.
Changing scenario
Five of the 20 companies involved in the biggest private equity apparel deals of the last decade have been restructured or gone bankrupt. All struggled under the debt load of a leveraged buyout. The biggest acquisition, Apollo Global Management's roughly $3.1-billion leveraged buyout of Claire's Stores, restructured in 2016. The second-largest acquisition, J Crew Group Inc, which TPG Capital and Leonard Green & Partners bought for about $3 billion, is now being restructured. Gymboree Corp filed for bankruptcy last month, seven years after Bain Capital's $1.8-billion purchase.
Many US fashion top brass are considering a sale option as pressure mounts from more affordable fast-fashion chains from Europe such as Zara and H&M, and customers abandon malls in favour of Amazon and other online retailers. Outerwear brand Eddie Bauer is eyeing a sale while also seeking relief from its debt load, according to Reuters. Teen brand American Apparel explored a sale last year before filing for bankruptcy.
In this context, Rohit Singh, specialists in retail at UBS Investment Bank, points out public company board members are reticent about green-lighting large-scale mergers and acquisitions because it's hard to find a good example of a business that has been rewarded by the equity market for doing so.
The most successful acquisitions have been those of younger brands, with a substantial room for growth and are yet to develop expensive supply chains and costly, little-used store bases. Gap Inc's $150 million purchase of athletic and yoga clothing line Athleta in 2008, for example, gave it a foothold in a growing fashion trend. The acquisition helped save Gap when sales of its jeans slowed as shoppers shifted to leggings. Josh Chernoff, MD – Retail, Parthenon-EY, said that if you tie two rocks together, they sink just as fast or faster. Mark Belford, a retail specialist at KPMG Corporate Finance, said that fashion is not something you can solve with math. You either get it or you don't, and it either sells or it sits on the shelf.
Israel-based NILIT has launched Sensil, its new nylon 6.6 brand for apparel. Sensil nylon 6.6 represents the gold standard of manmade fibers. It has an exceptional look and feel, is soft, strong, and durable, and retains newness after many wearings and washings. Sensil’s premium performance features include inherent odor control, temperature management, moisture management, and UV resistance. It is the new standard of quality for intimates, leg wear, active wear, and other style- and performance-driven garments.
NILIT, makes nylon textile fibers. Over the coming months, NILIT will be taking its unique message of fashion and performance benefits to the marketplace with a bold marketing campaign establishing Sensil as the smarter apparel choice for brands, retailers, and consumers.
Sensil is the result of extensive market analysis and research on retail industry shifts, consumer insights, and fashion trends. Many suppliers in the industry are focusing on lowering costs and, as a result, diluting quality. With Sensil, NILIT intends to work with its partners to reverse that trend.
Sensil will be supported by a 360-degree communications plan targeting fabric producers, brands, retailers, and consumers that includes trade shows and events, print and digital advertising, social media, point of sale displays, and in-store events.
In Nigeria, textile manufacturing is a key local industry, supported by a chain of suppliers such as cotton growers and natural dye makers. However, traditional methods of dyeing fabrics are threatened by cheap imports from abroad. Nigerians have a love of naturally dyed fabrics with many prints based on traditional motifs. In northern regions, it is common for cloth to be a single color, such as indigo. Dyers use dye-pits (two or three meters deep). The cloth is left in these for a day or two, before being rinsed and left to dry. Sometimes, indigo cloth is beaten and given an extra coating of indigo powder to give a deeper shade and a glossy shine or sheen.
At one time, Nigeria's textile industry used to be the third largest in Africa. Now the country spends about 100 billion naira annually on importing clothing materials. If half of this could be made locally, the drain of foreign exchange could be stopped. Jobs could be created. Buying home made goods can stimulate the domestic economy.
Leadership failed to sustain the manufacturing and textile industries when the country discovered oil. A return to agriculture and manufacturing could enable Nigeria come out of recession. Once industries are back, Nigeria could be not just an investment destination but a job destination.
