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"With rapid movement of styles from catwalk to retail shelves, fast fashion is space in everyone’s wardrobe. And as Tasha Lewis, a professor at Cornell University’s Department of Fibre Science and Apparel Design says, the rate of new fashion cycles has accelerated to a feverish pace. It used to be four seasons in a year; now it may be up to 11 or 15 or more. At the helm of such a revolution are brands such as Forever 21, Zara and H&M. However, the industry is witnessing a major flux these days owing to stringent environmental and labour regulations."
With rapid movement of styles from catwalk to retail shelves, fast fashion is space in everyone’s wardrobe. And as Tasha Lewis, a professor at Cornell University’s Department of Fibre Science and Apparel Design says, the rate of new fashion cycles has accelerated to a feverish pace. It used to be four seasons in a year; now it may be up to 11 or 15 or more. At the helm of such a revolution are brands such as Forever 21, Zara and H&M. However, the industry is witnessing a major flux these days owing to stringent environmental and labour regulations.
Talking about their market share, H&M has experienced steady online market growth since 2014, although perhaps not quickly enough to compete with rapid risers like Torrid, ASOS and Zara in the long term. The most meteoric rise by far has been of Uniqlo, the Japanese brand which first appeared in New York City in 2006 and expanded aggressively across the country over the following decade.
H&M and Forever 21 have long been dubbed as millennials’ preferred choice. Forever 21 currently has higher online ranking in America than H&M. One key difference between the two is their age groups. Forever 21 shoppers are 118 per cent more likely than the average person to be younger Millennials, while H&M shoppers are 133 per cent more likely to be older Millennials. H&M could use this age distinction in several strategic ways. They might double- down on their 25-34 year old customer base, who are loyal to H&M and have more disposable income than young Millennials. It also turns out this age group skews heavily towards men for H&M, while Forever 21 actually struggles to reach older millennial men; this advantage could present an opportunity for H&M to eclipse Forever 21 by releasing a slightly more upscale male clothing line.
Consumers’ shifting mindset
Rising consumer concerns on growing eco-consciousness would majorly drive their future growth across the world. Between 2015 and 2016, traffic to the fast fashion industry dropped in step with the release of ‘True Cost’, a documentary about the impact of the retail industry on the planet (and which called out brands like H&M and Zara directly). As a response, several brands such as H&M announced take-back programs that collect used clothing to be recycled or re-sold. However, the success of these programs is still a question mark.
Unhealthy working conditions are also putting fast fashion industry into bad light. This ethical question remains unresolved for the fast fashion industry, and would manufacturers to shift their priorities and be a responsible eco company. For brands willing to innovate in their manufacturing procedures, transparency and sustainability initiatives, this could become a differentiating opportunity.
What does the future hold?
Experts say, affordable clothing will always have a market but financial pressures and consumer priorities are undoubtedly casting doubts around the sustainability of fast fashion at its current scale. While these challenges are formidable, they also present opportunities for fast fashion brands capitalise on shifting consumer priorities. Brands who rely on the rapid-cycle release of inexpensive garments, such as Forever 21 and Nasty Gal, will likely continue to struggle producing lower quality products at lesser margins. Meanwhile brands such as Uniqlo, who innovate textile blends and slow the frequency of their fashion cycles may be able to keep prices low without eroding the quality of their garments.
"The just concluded 2nd edition of Gartex got a positive response from the industry. Spread over 65,000 sq. ft. nearly 16,790 trade buyers explored the latest technological advancements trending in the garment and textile manufacturing industry. Nearly 100 domestic and international exhibitors congregated at Pragati Maidan, New Delhi, from July 29 - 31, 2017. Organised by MEX Exhibitions, the Expo emerged as a definitive gateway facilitating complete sourcing of modern garmenting technologies under one roof."
The just concluded 2nd edition of Gartex got a positive response from the industry. Spread over 65,000 sq. ft. nearly 16,790 trade buyers explored the latest technological advancements trending in the garment and textile manufacturing industry. Nearly 100 domestic and international exhibitors congregated at Pragati Maidan, New Delhi, from July 29 - 31, 2017. Organised by MEX Exhibitions, the Expo emerged as a definitive gateway facilitating complete sourcing of modern garmenting technologies under one roof.
The three-day show displayed and promoted new technologies and state-of-the-art equipment, materials and services, facilitating a hub for industry professionals to gather under one platform. It also provided a major hub to promote, discuss, transact, partner and gain insights on latest trends and emerging competition, besides bringing new business opportunities to the forefront. Be it local or international, existing or new company, Gartex provided exhibitors a platform to be valuable in reaching their target audience comprising excellent quality visitors and buyers who met their clients for effective marketing, launching and showcasing new products while offering insights into futuristic technology solutions.
Exhibiting segments
Companies in garmenting, fabric, embroidery, digital printing, sewing, cutting solutions, software and other allied products participated in the show. Their response was extremely positive as they were able to garner business while making contacts in the industry. As Gaurav Juneja, Director, MEX Exhibitions said “Apart from that with varied segments like embroidery, digital printing, value-added garment machinery, beading machines, CAD-CAM & other software, threads, sewing machines, quilting machines, etc., we have tried bringing a value-chain of the garment & textile manufacturing solution for our valued serious buyers.”
The exhibitors interacted with professionals from export houses, mill owners, sportswear manufacturers, fashion designers, home furnishing companies, etc. who thronged the venue from across India, for more than 150 brands/products, which were put on show.
Many exhibitors/brands such as Colorjet, Tajima, Tang, Dayu, Unix, Aura, Mehala, Jaysynth, etc., used Gartex as a launchpad to introduce new technologies to Indian customers. A few other exhibitors set up live demonstrations of latest direct-to-fabric printers that attracted serious buyers.
Based on feedback from visitors and exhibitors, the organisers have decided to double the size for next year’s show with expanded floor space to accommodate double the number of exhibitors besides enhancing sections presenting an entire value-chain of garment and textile manufacturing solutions.
Emphasising on the importance of the venue, Himani Gulati, Director, MEX Exhbitions said, “Gartex has an edge over other exhibition in the selection of venue --. Pragati Maidan, New Delhi. Being located in the heart of the country and the city, it brings easy access to both exhibitors and visitors. The selection of Pragati Maidan was to ensure world class treatment to both exhibitors and visitors in terms of centralised location, ease of transportation and top-class infrastructure so they must concentrate on business for all the three days of the exhibition.” The next edition of Gartex will be held at Pragati Maidan from August 18 to 20, 2018.
Bangladesh’s exports of apparel items to potential non-traditional markets declined significantly this year. Australia, Japan, China, Chile, Brazil, Russia, South Africa, New Zealand, Malaysia, Korea, India and Turkey are considered non-traditional emerging markets. Shipments to Brazil, Korea, Mexico, South Africa and Turkey slid 26.97 per cent, 16.97 per cent, 16.86 per cent and 14.87 per cent respectively in the July-June period of the fiscal 2016-17 compared to the same period a year ago. Exports to India, Japan and Australia dropped by 4.84 per cent, 3.87 per cent and 8.52 per cent respectively.
Some 15 per cent of Bangladesh’s readymade garment exports come from these non-traditional markets. Among the reasons for the fall are rising cost of doing business, sluggish global demand followed by low unit price of apparel items and high duties in many non-traditional markets. Duties are 33 per cent in Brazil, 30 per cent in both Turkey and Mexico and 40 to 50 per cent in South Africa. Moreover, the currencies were weaker in the importing countries, especially in Brazil, India, and Turkey, which contributed to sapping demand. Finally many factories in Bangladesh have been shut due to compliance issues. This had an adverse impact on production levels.
UK’s export volumes fell 4.9 per cent in June, the biggest monthly fall since June 2016. Imports were up 1.5 per cent. Manufacturing also stagnated in the month and construction went backwards, adding to the impression of Britain losing momentum as the clock ticks towards Brexit in 2019.
Since last June’s Brexit vote, goods export volumes, excluding erratic items such as non-monetary gold and aircraft, are up six per cent. But over that period import volumes are also up 6.3 per cent, suggesting no contribution to GDP growth from net goods trade. Manufacturing output was unchanged in June. Transport equipment output volumes sank by 3.2 per cent in the month, making the largest contribution to downward pressure.
Overall industrial output grew 0.5 per cent in June, driven by higher oil production. Construction output is estimated to have fallen 0.1 per cent in the month, following a 0.4 per cent contraction in May. The overall economy is estimated to have grown 0.3 per cent in the second quarter of 2017, a marginal improvement on the 0.2 per cent seen in the first quarter, but well down from the 0.7 per cent growth in the final quarter of 2016. The main reason for the slowdown is a sharp fall in consumer spending, as higher inflation, stemming from the pound’s slump, has eaten into household incomes.
At the end of June, 682 Indian textile mills were closed. Of these, 232 were in Tamil Nadu while 85 in Maharashtra and 60 in Uttar Pradesh. As many as 42 such are in Haryana. Among the 1,399 operational textile mills, 752 were in Tamil Nadu, followed by Maharashtra (135) and Andhra Pradesh (112).
Under the Amended Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme (ATUFS), launched last year, there are benefits in terms of a one time capital subsidy of 15 per cent for the garmenting and technical textiles segments with a cap of Rs 30 crores. Besides, there is a 10 per cent capital subsidy for segments like weaving, processing, jute, silk and handlooms with a subsidy cap of Rs 20 crores for setting up new textile units or for expansion of existing units with benchmarked technology.
Production of Tamil Nadu textile manufacturers is expected to reach Rs 75,000 crores by 2020. Right now it’s Rs 50,000 crores. Currently India is looking to add around 3 to 3.5 million spindles a year against an average number of 2.5 million spindles over the past five years. The southern region is expected to contribute to about one million and more spindles every year.
With an aim to project the city as an emerging start-up a multi-storey trade facilitation centre is being planned on 8,000 sq. mt. land at Parvat Patiya near Amazia Fun Park by the Surat Municipal Corporation (SMC). This centre will provide an eco-system for new startups to connect with national and international businesses and facilitate innovations.
SMC will provide nodal support to all kinds of start-ups along with new innovators in textiles and diamond sectors. It has appointed a consultant to prepare a vision document for a start-up and trade facilitation centre at Parvat Patiya and will provide a working space to new start-ups with established ones along with incubation facility and help building advance technology and research infrastructure.
SMC will work as facilitator by bringing in all the stake holders under one umbrella. New innovations and research in textile and diamond sectors would also be a key facet of the centre where in advents and innovations in new technology would lead city's two major industrial segments to be indigenous and make their products cheaper following upgradation of the tools and machinery and innovations made at the centre.
Special commissioner for Smart City project M Nagrajan says the centre could to be a game changer for Surat in coming decade. Along with textile and diamond sector, this start-up facilitation would actually pillar the future growth of Surat city. P M Shah, President of South Gujarat Chamber of Commerce and Industry (SGCCI), feels this would further propel growth of the rapidly developing city. With local governance endorsing the innovations and research on a world scale, it would have a tremendous effect.
Pakistan’s cotton output may fall short of the target by 10.26 per cent. The country’s biggest crop producer Punjab is facing a water shortage. However, the parameters for production, including plant population, bolls per plant and boll weight, are better than last year’s.
Production was recorded at 10.6 million bales during the crop year of 2016-17. There was sowing on 2.753 million hectares this year, up 13.9 per cent as compared to the previous year’s area under cultivation. The cotton crop size for Punjab is now projected at 8.80 million bales, followed by Sindh (3.70 million bales) and Khyber Pakhtunkhwa and Balochistan with 0.10 million bales each.
Farmers are being trained for the management of pink bollworm as well as the leaf burning syndrome. Cotton prices are also encouraging for farmers. The country is making all-out efforts to boost cotton production by taking supportive measures for all stakeholders. Measures have been taken for the establishment of a National Textile University in all four provinces for technology upgrade and skill development in the agriculture sector.
Due to nominal carry-forward stocks and depleting cotton reserves of China, India and US, prices of the commodity in the local market would remain stable during the season.
China is the largest foreign investor in Myanmar and has substantial investments in the country’s garment sector. FDI has the potential to positively contribute to economic transformation and poverty-reduction in Myanmar. As of mid-2015, about 55 per cent of registered garment firms in the country were fully or partly foreign-owned. Among them, a quarter came from China, 17 per cent from Hong Kong, 29 per cent from South Korea and 12 per cent from Japan.
However, Chinese and Hong Kong-linked garment firms have produced few benefits, linkages or spillovers in Myanmar beyond exports and job creation. The reason is Myanmar’s industry lacks entrepreneurial, management and technical skills. Foreign-owned firms have few local managers. In the long term, Myanmar should follow the Bangladesh example, where tertiary education institutes dedicated to the garment industry increase supply of managers and high-skill technicians.
In addition the country should ease entry restrictions for foreign firms, undertake active investment promotion in garments through complementary reforms in finance and trade policy, expand training to tackle the shortage of high-level skilled manpower, and engage with buying firms, especially global retail or apparel corporations.
Other possible reforms are: making access to trade credit possible for garment exports and providing tariff-free fabric imports to both free-on-board and cut-make-package producers.
Denim brand Levi’s is using 3D printing technology to develop denim jackets. The step has come at a time when the company is planning to delve into a futuristic mode to innovate the manufacturing process and its design approach. Levi’s is taking digital renderings of its denim jacket and using 3D printing technology to create a shell of what the real jacket looks like. The denim brand is using the Stratasys’ Fortus 450 mc 3D production system for effective implementation of the process.
The process is dedicated to extracting the essence of the product and then shaping it as a digital entity. This further can be distributed and remotely turned into templates which incorporate intensive patterns and then can just be all captured in the piece of very advanced digital collateral.
This means Levi’s doesn’t have to rely on sort of centralised manufacturing sites any more. Additionally, the process will enable Levi’s to capture all the twill lines, stitch lines and the buttonholes of the jacket with the help of a topography scan. These features will then be re-rendered as a 3D print, reducing seven different panels to just one panel by superimposing the fabric over the template.
German Federal Ministry for Economic Affairs and Energy (BMWi), in cooperation with the Association of the German Trade Fair Industry (AUMA) for the first time is supporting a German group participation at Irantex, the international exhibition of textile machinery, raw materials, home textiles, embroidery machines and textile products scheduled for beginning of September in Tehran. Irantex, will be a four-day event held from September 4 to 7 at Tehran International Permanent Fairground, Shahid Chamran Expressway.
The German Pavilion, initiated by the VDMA Textile Machinery, will cover 300 sq. mt. exhibition space. Nearly 26 VDMA member companies will participate in the official German presentation at Irantex. According to VDMA, in the first five months of 2017, Germany’s exports of textile machinery and accessories reached more than €27 million which was already more than in the entire year 2016. The VDMA exhibitors at Irantex will cover the whole textile chain. The companies presenting their latest developments include ANDRITZ Kusters, Autefa Solutions Germany, Bruckner Textile Technologies, Oerlikon Manmade Fibers Segment Oerlikon Textile, Strobel Spezialmaschinen etc.
Similarly some companies from South Korea, Spain, Italy, Turkey, India, Netherland, Russia, China, Taiwan, Germany and Japan will be participating in IRANTEX.
