The textile industry plays a major role in the economic life of the country and contributes greatly to industrial output, employment generation and export earnings as well. The industry’s contribution to industrial production in 14 per cent, to India’s GDP, it is 4 per cent and it constitutes 13 per cent to the country’s earnings. By 2016-17, the domestic textile and apparel industry in India is estimated to reach $100 billion this period.
The textile industry in India is diverse with the hand-spun and hand-woven sector at one end, and the capital-intensive, sophisticated mill sector at the other. Besides, the close link to the ancient culture and traditions of the country and the agriculture make it unique when compared to other countries. This also provides the industry with the capacity to produce a variety of products, which are suitable for different market segments, both within and outside the country.
The industry has a potential to grow five-fold over the next 10 years and touch the $500 billion mark on the back of growing demand for polyester fabric. This includes domestic sales of $315 billion and exports of $185 billion. Currently, the domestic market comprises of $68 billion and exports of $40 billion. The total fabric production in the country is expected to grow to 112 billion square metres by 2016-17. Moreover, India’s fibre production is expected to reach 10 million tonnes in the same period.
Export & Import
One of the mainstays of the national economy, the country textiles and clothing industry is also the largest contributing sectors to its export across the world. The exports of the textiles and clothing is estimated to go to $64.41 billion by the end of March, 2017 as predicted by Working Group constituted by the Planning Commission. In 2015, export of textile products increased marginally by 0.46 per cent to $37,137.32 million as compared to $36,967.56 million in last year.
Also, India is not dependant on import when it comes to textiles. Majority of import takes place for re-export or special requirement. In the fiscal year 2015, the import of textile products increased by 13.98 per cent touching $5,511.95 million as compared to $4,835.93 million in 2014. The textile industry is trying to get a duty cut on man-made fibre as high cost of the key raw material for making blended garments is making Indian goods uncompetitive in the global market. The industry is in consultation with the finance and revenue departments regarding this. Man-made fibre draws and excise duty of 12.5 per cent, but it has import restrictions. These lead to a cumulative duty of 29 per cent.
Bright future for the industry
The last five years have seen a spurt in investment sin the textile industry. All segments of the industry, including the dyed and printed attracted foreign direct investment (FDI) worth $70.82 million or Rs 444.43 crore during April 2015.
The government too has launched various schemes to support the industry. Minister of State for Textiles launched a scheme to promote usage of Geotechnical Textiles in the North Eastern Region of India, at Imphal. The government has also launched a new institution, Handicrafts & Carpet Sector Skill Council to promote skill development among artisans, crafts people and workers at grassroots level. The corporates too are supporting the industry in many ways with various partnerships and joint ventures with players from the industry.
Overall, the future for the textile industry looks very promising in both ways—domestic as well as international.
According to the Pakistan Bureau of Statistics, the country’s exports of value-added textile products went up by 7.5 per cent to $4.517 billion in 2014-15 from $4.202 billion a year ago. Exports of readymade garments grew 10.5 per cent to $2.101 billion from $1.909 billion, while knitwear rose 5.37 per cent to $2.416 billion compared to $2.293 billion during the previous year.
The government support of Rs 6 billion during FY 15 as against Rs 3 billion during 2014, helped achieve these figures. This was mostly extended to the value-added textile sector. This clearly shows the government’s intention to remove imbalance in the exports sector to create jobs for the youth. Besides, preferential access to the 28-nation European Union under GSP+ scheme is also one more reason for the rise in these exports.
Also, a five-year textile policy to promote the segment, which is incentive heavy has been implemented by the government. A textile package of Rs 40.6 billion would require an ongoing firm commitment from the finance ministry and other relevant authorities. However, another Rs 23 billion development infrastructure projects foreseen in the policy would need approval from the Planning Commission, which is quite a difficult task. The government announced Rs 188 billion for the previous textile policy (2009-2014), but actually released Rs 28 billion.
Moreover, as the world is continuously moving from cotton to man-made fibre, the announcement of deemed import basis for PSF (Polyester Staple Fibre) will augment man-made fibre content in export products. The ratio has reversed from 60-40 to 40-60 within 10 years and in Pakistan, the ratio is 86-14, which is quite low according to international demands.
India as a textile brand has not established itself in Russia yet. More than 90 per cent of textiles and apparel consumed in Russia are imported. This gives Indian manufacturers a huge opportunity. Russian consumers are trendy and quality-conscious. Most global brands have experienced exponential growth since 2000 in Russia. E-commerce is the next big thing and consumers are ready to pay the price for latest brands, trends and service.
Russia is a quality conscious market. The middle class continues to grow and consumer’s expectations are more focused on quality, brands and emotional value attached to the product. Unlike other markets, price points are always the last concern in Russia. Due to the baby boom, children’s wear segment has been seeing great demand in the last decade. However, there is great potential in men’s wear, women’s wear, corporate wear, industrial wear and sport’s wear.
The Russian textile market is undergoing changes. These changes are taking place both in the purchasing structure and distribution channels. It requires a lot of effort and attention to set up an organisation in Russia but it is a market with a lot of potential and new opportunities.
Morarjee Textiles has opted for a sustainable design for its Nagpur factory. It aims to address both human and environmental challenges facing the country’s textile industry. The innovative building will reduce energy and water use. Morarjee Textiles works almost exclusively in high quality cotton for overseas markets with a significant proportion of the output being either printed or dyed.
The structure is designed to use the least material possible and provide a world-class environment for the 600-odd people who will work at the factory. Since textiles are a water and power intensive industry, the company’s aim is to channel all waste into a circular or closed loop system in order to get as close to zero waste as possible.
While conventional industrial systems tend to be simple, linear and wasteful, employing long-term toxins, biological systems are generally complex, interconnected, and have closed loop flows of resources that don’t cause long-term damage to the environment. The design team has used biomimicry as a tool with which to rethink the textile process and devise solutions that should provide for long term value creation.
A strict north-south orientation for the building has been chosen, allowing for roof lights with glazing facing north providing generous amounts of natural light throughout the working environment while the sloping solid surfaces of the roof lights are perfectly oriented for photovoltaic panels.
www.morarjee.com/
Blue jeans can now be eco friendly as scientists have invented engineered bacteria that can produce indigo dye for denim. Blue jeans get their signature color from indigo dye. Producing indigo releases chemicals that can pollute water and harm fish. That’s prompted scientists to seek cleaner methods. One new approach uses bacteria to produce indigo using a chemical process found in living plants.
For centuries textile makers have been using a deep blue dye made from a plant. The plants’ leaves don’t store indigo but contain a related compound. Crushing the plants’ leaves releases the molecule. Then it’s free to react with oxygen in the air and pair with another of its kind to produce that prized indigo.
People used to make the blue dye by extracting it from plants. But as demand for the dye grew, so did chemists’ know-how. By the late 1800s, German scientists had figured out how to synthesisze indigo from chemicals in the lab. Their plant-free approach was faster and allowed for factories to make huge amounts. Today, factories churn out some 40,000 tons of indigo per year, just for blue jeans.
But this large-scale production of the dye has its challenges. Wastes produced by the dye-making haven’t been kind to the environment. Most fabric coloring takes place in water. Yet indigo dissolves poorly in water. To get around this problem, factories use chemicals called reducing agents. These chemicals convert indigo into a form that can dissolve in water. However reducing agent can hurt aquatic life.
Century Textiles & Industries has posted a net loss of Rs 29.01 crores for the quarter ended June 30. For the same period last year, its net profit was Rs 66.49 crores. In the quarter ended June 2015, sales shot up 5.59 per cent to Rs 1,944.72 crores, while in the previous quarter ended June 2014, it was Rs 1,841.83 crores. The textile division clocked in a turnover of Rs 445.32 crores in Q1 FY16 as against Rs 429.89 crores in the same period last year.
It may be recalled that the Competition Commission of India (CCI) had upheld the complaint of alleged cartelisation against cement manufacturing companies including Century Textiles. Century Textiles had to pay a penalty of Rs 274.02 crores, imposed by CCI. Century had meanwhile filed an appeal against the order before the Competition Appellate Tribunal (COMPAT). The COMPAT granted a stay on the CCI order on condition that the company deposits 10 per cent of the penalty, which amounts to Rs 27.40 crores. The company deposited the amounte during 2013-14.
Confirming its plans for ITMA Milan, Karl Mayor has said the firm will launch at least seven new warp-knitting machines in the international textile machinery fair. Karl Mayer feels launch at the leading trade show will help it catch more eyeballs from international buyers, and, in return, will help it to write a success story for the new innovations. The fair is considered the most important international meeting point for the industry. The machines will be showcased under the banner, ‘We care about your future’ on the 1,400 sq metre stand.
Optimistic over the company’s plans, Oliver Mathews, Director (Sales), Warp Knitting Business Unit, said that their products are so efficient and technology-driven that visitors will not resist from seeing their business making a mark with the help of them. The range intended to bring maximum benefits for users will strengthen their position as a market and technology leader in the industry.
The company’s optimism is supported by the fact that it has been successful in the past also in making good fortunes out of the launches pretty similar to this. Four years ago, the firm in ITMA Barcelona had launched the finest ever version of its HKS 2-3 E tricot warp knitting machine, which went to become a best seller for it.
At the next edition of Première Vision Paris, specialized Upper Jeanswear area, Eco Denim will present its sportswear and jeanswear collection made of pants, jackets, shirts, shorts, skirts, dresses. In each of its collections, the manufacturer will introduce new washing and design techniques combined with denim innovations and the latest trends.
Eco Denim is a vertically integrated company offering technological innovations in fields ranging from patterns, sewing, washing, all types of dyeing and special treatments, embroidery, laser to ozone treatment. All processes are 100 per cent controlled in-house, in one production site.
The company will bring some of its novel technologies to Paris including different dyeing machines, new techniques and also special prints and treatments on fabric rolls. Upper Jeanswear at Pemiere Vision, the updated jeanswear concept dedicated to fashion brands will present a complementary offer of weavers and manufacturers.
www.premierevision.com
South Korea’s emerging labels Munsoo Kwon and J Koo won the Asia finals of International Woolmark Prize 2015-16 the men’s wear and women’s wear categories held in Shanghai. Selected from 12 promising fashion talents in Asia, both winners earned A$50,000 in prize money, and will take part in next year's international finals.
This year's panel of judges consisted of a cross-section of industry leaders, including designer Thom Browne, Chinese supermodel Lu Yan and Cyril Rahon, head buyer of 10 Corso Como. Women’s wear category winner Jinwoo Choi and Yeonjoo Koo of J Koo showcased an oversized denim jacket paired with matching trousers. The pair's innovative fabric development transformed the material with artful use of bleach and strategic fraying to add to the illusion.
Men’s wear winner Munsoo Kwon displayed a well-tailored suit that proved new ways of working with wool. Traditional pinstripe suiting was transformed into a modern look with white ombré along the sleeves and trouser legs. The final for menswear will be held in Florence in January 2016, and the womenswear final will take place in New York in February next year.
www.woolmark.com
The four-day Sourcing at Magic fair starts from August 16 at Las Vegas. The show will represent more than 1,000 apparel, accessories, footwear and home textile resources, along with a range of some 200 fabrics, based out of about 43 countries. During the event, seminar series will be held keeping in mind special features, needs and interests of that particular area. The second day of the event will see Apparel Magazine taking part in the ‘Sourcing Summit at Magic. A session on apparels with a theme of Sourcing’s Emerging Role-Achieving Breakthroughs From Concept to Delivery, will carry out an executive research summary from its 9th Annual Apparel and Kurt Salmon Sourcing Survey.
The event will see special emphasis on wearable technology, home sourcing and buzz boutique. Wearable technology comprises of prototype garments, stretchable electronics screen printed onto textiles and compression shirts with integrated dry electrodes for electrocardiogram monitoring. The concept of ‘Home sourcing at Magic’ is devised to integrate the fashion and home communities. It will see the participation of more than 50 countries. The model of ‘Buzz Boutique’ will stress on marketing solutions, apps and social media trends.
Global artisans will showcase their unique and culture-based products from the countries such as Philippines and Indonesia.
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