The recently concluded BRICS+ Fashion Summit & Moscow Fashion Week ( Aug 28 to September 2, 2025) has solidified its position as a key global forum, moving the fashion conversation beyond seasonal trends and into the realms of economic policy and cultural diplomacy.  It serves as a platform, a global stage for shifting industry to foster professional dialogue, cultural exchange, and international cooperation within the fashion industry. Organized by the Cultural Fund for the Development of Fashion and Design with support from the Moscow Government, gathered officials, designers, and industry experts from over 60 countries to discuss the shifting landscape of a new, polycentric fashion world. The forum set out to challenge the traditional dominance of Paris, Milan, London, and New York — positioning emerging markets as co-authors of fashion’s next chapter.

Fashion as an economic engine

The summit's opening plenary session, "Fashion 360°," underscored fashion's role as a major economic driver. Speakers repeatedly called fashion “a serious driver of growth, not just a seasonal indulgence.” Officials highlighted how the industry stimulates growth in related sectors, from textiles to digital technologies. According to Anton Alikhanov, Minister of Industry and Trade of the Russian Federation, "Over the past five years, the fashion market has more than doubled and is now estimated by experts at 500 billion rubles... we will grow in the range of 5% to 7% annually up to 2036."

The industry's increasing potential is attracting significant investment. Yana Komarova, CEO of Zerno Ventures, noted, "Investors focus on validated concepts, sustainable business models, and capable development teams. We’re seeing increased interest in retail, the rehabilitation industry, and functional textiles." Technological innovation is also driving this momentum, with Natalia Popova of Innopraktika highlighting that "fashion is becoming high-tech," from smart fabrics to big data solutions.

The Protectionism Debate: Local pride vs. Global ambition

A key theme was the strategic pivot toward local brands and the debate over national market protection. The session "Protectionism or Free Trade" brought to light a new reality where nations are increasingly supporting their domestic industries. The BRICS+ Fashion Summit tackled the central question of whether national clothing markets should be protected. The debate brought to light a new reality where governments are increasingly supporting their domestic industries to promote a "buy local" ethos, but without a full-blown protectionist approach.

Alexei Fursin, a Moscow Government Minister, explained that Russia's primary focus has been to promote local brands, stating, "First and foremost, the consumer must be local." While the potential return of Western brands was discussed, Kirill Dmitriev, Special Presidential Representative for Investment and Economic Cooperation, assured that Russia would prioritize its own businesses. He added that a "thoughtful approach will be taken to determine the conditions under which they can return," noting that "complete protectionism would hinder competition."

For nations in the Global South, the challenge often lies in accessing international markets. Aurea Yamashita of Brazil's ABEST highlighted that high tariffs are a "big problem" and that "reducing tariffs would help our companies access new markets and become more competitive."

Meanwhile, this emphasis on local identity is gaining cultural traction. Mikhail Khomich of ASI noted a growing sense of pride among Russian consumers, stating that "Today, declaring 'I wear everything Russian' is not a source of shame. On the contrary—it has become a point of pride."

Fashion as a tool for diplomacy

Beyond its economic role, the BRICS+ Fashion Summit highlighted fashion as a powerful instrument of cultural diplomacy. As the industry shifts from universal design standards to a new global "polycentrism," fashion weeks are becoming strategic platforms for dialogue.

Zainab Saidulaeva, Creative Director of Measure, argued that "fashion has emerged as diplomacy’s new language," noting its unique capacity to "intensely export regional culture." This sentiment was echoed by Ozlem Sahin Ertas, founder of Think Fashion Global, who described her organization's mission to "celebrate the richness of all cultures and articulate their authenticity through fashion."

The summit served as a "borderless global dialogue," with designers from over 60 countries using Moscow's catwalks to prove that cultural exchange can thrive even amid geopolitical tensions. Inclusivity was equally central. Ozlem Sahin Ertas, founder of Think Fashion Global, spoke of “celebrating the richness of all cultures and democratizing fashion,” highlighting initiatives like Modest Fashion Week that widen access and visibility.

Rewriting the fashion map

By blending investment dialogue, trade policy, and cultural storytelling, the BRICS+ Fashion Summit positioned fashion as both marketplace and meeting ground. It invited rising economies to move from the margins of style to its command centers — and to use clothes not only to dress bodies, but also to shape economies and diplomacy.

As one participant summed up: “Fashion is no longer about who walks the runway; it’s about who shapes the world economy and cultural conversation.” In Moscow, that message rang clear.