At the recent World Retail Congress 2025 in London, Helena Helmersson, Chairperson, Circulose and former CEO, H&M Group, urged all brands to refocus on sustainability. Helmersson acknowledged, focus on sustainability has diminished due to various reasons like the pandemic, inflation, wars, artificial intelligence (AI), etc. All these factors have diverted attention from sustainability, as it was no longer perceived as the biggest challenge facing companies.

However, there was no need to despair, Helemersson emphasized. She cited the example of the framework and graphical representation, Gartner Hype Cycle to illustrate the specific path followed by trends: from initial hype to unmet expectations, disillusionment, before stabilizing and achieving long-term implementation. The industry is currently in the ‘valley of disillusionment’ regarding sustainability, Helmersson noted. Their progress is slow with skepticism amongst consumers increasing due to rising broken promises from companies.

To break this cycle, the industry needs to bridge the gap between sustainability and profitability, Helmersson opined. For example, it needs to remove pressure on profitability during the purchasing process, she added.

Companies need to also focus on meeting practical needs to win over the disillusioned consumers, Helmersson asserted. She cited the example of the second-hand platform Sellpy which helps consumers declutter their wardrobes and is also pocket-friendly.

Companies must allow room internally for achieving goals, and form long-term partnerships, Helmersson noted. There must be coordination and investment with a long-term perspective, she added.