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India's cotton industry is set to receive a significant boost with the Indian Chamber of Food and Agriculture (ICFA) and the International Cotton Advisory Committee (ICAC) pledging support for the government's National Mission on Cotton. This Rs 500-crore initiative aims to enhance cotton productivity, sustainability, and global competitiveness.
During an ICFA-organized roundtable discussion, Dr MJ Khan, Founder announced this collaborative effort, emphasizing on the need to address critical challenges facing the sector. Eric B Trachtenberg, Executive Director, ICAC highlighted issues such as stagnant productivity, pest infestations, and climate vulnerability, stressing the importance of technological and policy interventions.
Trachtenberg warned, India risks becoming a major cotton importer due to persistent productivity issues and outdated hybrid seeds. Devastating impact of pests like the pink bollworm cause annual losses of Rs 3,900 crore, he pointed. Climate change further exacerbates the problem, threatening to destroy millions of cotton bales in key producing regions, he added.
To combat these challenges, experts advocate for stronger biotech interventions, including advancements in the Cotton Genome Initiative and the adoption of genetically modified organism (GMO) solutions. Speakers like Dr Satbir Singh Gosal and Dr M Prabhakar Rao emphasized the need for innovation, research, and improved breeding techniques.
Raghavan Sampath kumar, Executive Director, Federation of Seed Industry of India (FSII) called for enhanced collaboration between the textile-seed industry and suggested an International Year of Cotton to drive reforms. Dr YG Prasad, Director, ICAR-CICR emphasized on the importance of developing climate-resilient cotton varieties and integrated pest management strategies.
The roundtable concluded with key recommendations, including the introduction of advanced hybrid seeds and pest-resistant strains, bridging biotechnology research gaps through international partnerships, advocating for regulatory reforms in seed and biotech approvals, strengthening climate resilience, and enhancing export potential.
These discussions represent a crucial step towards revitalizing India's cotton sector, ensuring higher farmer incomes, and solidifying India's position as a global leader in cotton production. Shreyasi Agarwal, CEO, ICFA, underscored the importance of technology-driven solutions and multi-stakeholder collaboration in achieving these goals.
Confederation of Zimbabwe Industries (CZI) is urging industry leaders to increase value addition to cotton to reduce imports in the textile and clothing sector and boost the economy.
As outlined in the National Developmente Strategy 1 (NDSI) for re-industrializaiton, this will also help boost jobs and offer economic benefits, aligning with Zimbabwe's strategy of import substitution to strengthen its manufacturing sector, CZI says.
Cotton production in Zimbabwe declined from 360,000 metric tons in 2011 to just 13,000 metric tons in 2024. This shortage is forcing local industries to increase fabric imports.
In collaboration with farmers and the private sector, the government is trying to revitalize cotton production through increased farmer support and policy changes.
As per CZI, although the sector’s ginning capacity in the country is 750,000 metric tons, it operates at only 20 per cent, with most cotton exported as lint. Only 12,000 metric tons are processed locally, which is a significant loss for value addition and job creation, adds CZI.
Experts have expressed concern over the low level of lint processing, especially for an economy aiming for greater value addition.
Cotton production in Zimbabwe has declined since 2013 due to insufficient resources and farming support, leading to low yields. In 2015, production hit a low of 28,000 tons, prompting government intervention with the Presidential Input Scheme.
Last year, farmers produced only 13,000 tons of cotton, below the government's 42,000-ton projection, due to the El Niño drought.
In 2021, Zimbabwe's cotton to clothing exports grew by 132 per cent, earning $102.2 million. This growth was mainly driven by cotton lint and yarn exports, which increased to $85.7 million from $29.1 million the previous year.
This year, the country has increased the cotton planting area substantially expects a good harvest, states Professor Obert Jiri, Ministry of Agriculture.
The value of Bangladesh's apparel shipments to the EU rose by 4.86 per cent to $19.77 billion in 2024. The volume of the country’s apparel exports to the EU also increased by 10.18 per cent from the previous to 1,230.51 million kg.
However, the price per kilogram decline by 5 per cent, from $16.88 in 2023 to $16.07 in 2024.
EU's overall apparel imports increased in value by 1.53 per cent to $92.56 billion, while import volume grew by 8.98 per cent, as reported by Eurostat.
This resulted in a 6.83 per cent decline in average unit prices, affecting major suppliers like Bangladesh, according to Mohiuddin Rubel, Denim Expert.
China remained the top apparel exporter to the EU, followed by Bangladesh, Turkey, and India. All these countries, along with Vietnam and Cambodia, also saw price declines.
While Bangladesh maintained its position as a key EU supplier, the lower prices raise concerns about profitability amid global price reductions.
Falling prices make it harder to maintain profits, notes Rubel. Increased export volume and value were supported by producing higher-value garments, duty-free access, workplace safety, and the efforts of manufacturers and workers. These factors increased buyer confidence and strengthened Bangladesh's position in the export market, adds Rubel.
Although exports in 2024 were better than 2023, they were still below 2022 levels.
According to Rubel, while Bangladesh has shown resilience, it needs to shift strategies for future growth. The country can remain competitive and protect profit margins and global price declines by adding value to the products and diversifying markets, he adds.
After a period of global economic turbulence, Bangladesh's ready-made garment (RMG) sector is showing signs of resurgence, with exports to key markets like the EU and the US showing good growth in the first seven months of the 2024-25 fiscal. This rebound, however, raises questions about its sustainability and the underlying factors driving it.
Growing shipments a positive sign
The numbers are compelling. The Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) data shows, apparel shipments to the EU grew 13.91 per cent year-on-year, reaching $11.81 billion. In the US, the largest single market, exports grew 16.45 per cent to $4.47 billion.
Table: Bangladesh RMG exports to key markets
|
Market |
July-January FY24-25 ($ bn) |
Growth (%) |
Share (%) |
|
EU |
11.81 |
13.91 |
50.15 |
|
US |
4.47 |
16.45 |
18.99 |
|
UK |
N/A |
4.55 |
10.83 |
|
Non-Traditional |
N/A |
6.42 |
N/A |
This growth has translated into higher market share for Bangladesh, with the EU now accounting for 50.15 per cent of total exports, up from 49.31 per cent in the same period last year. The US share also rose to 18.99 per cent from 18.27 per cent.
Growth triggers
Several factors have contributed to this positive trend. Firstly, the gradual recovery of global economy, particularly Europe and the US, has led to increased consumer demand. "Apparel consumption declined worldwide in the last fiscal year," says Mohiuddin Rubel, MD, Bangladesh Apparel Exchange. "Now these economies are doing better. And buyers are placing more orders."
Secondly, the ongoing trade tensions between the US and China have resulted in some buyers diverting orders to Bangladesh. "Some buyers have shifted orders from China because of the US-China tariff war," confirms Shams Mahmud, MD, Shasha Denims. This is proving beneficial for Bangladesh, positioning it as a viable alternative for global brands.
Also, improvements in internal factors, such as law and order, have also played a role. "Global brands that have outlets in Asia have increased sourcing from us," says Mahmud, highlighting the growing confidence in Bangladesh's stability. This growth is not without anxieties. "If a day is lost due to unrest or any other reason, we work at night or on Fridays. We are resilient," points out AKM Shaheed Reza, Chairman, Reza Group, highlighting the industry's ability to adapt.
Fragility of current business order
While the current growth is encouraging, its reliance on external factors like geopolitical tensions and fluctuating global demand raises concerns about its long-term sustainability. The industry's ability to capitalize on opportunities hinges on its capacity to enhance its own competitiveness and resilience. "The ongoing global trade tensions were reshaping the landscape, presenting opportunities that Bangladesh could capitalise on, provided the country possesses the necessary productive capacity," emphasizes Rubel.
Despite the positive trend, certain markets and product categories are struggling. Exports to Russia, South Korea, China, the UAE, and Malaysia have declined, indicating a need for targeted strategies to address these markets. Moreover, the industry faces several challenges. Ensuring a stable energy supply and managing worker payments during peak demand periods like Eid are crucial for maintaining momentum. "If we can pass this critical period, we will be able to achieve our export projections," cautions Mahmud.
Energy supply disruptions are a major concern, particularly for vertically integrated factories. "Gas shortages are a pressing concern, particularly for vertically integrated factories that rely on a steady supply," states Mahmud Hassan Khan Babu, MD, Rising Group. The Bangladesh Textile Mills Association President Showkat Aziz Russell also reports that most textile and spinning mills are running at 50 per cent capacity due to gas shortages, creating opportunities for competing nations like India, who have seen 40 per cent growth in exports to Bangladesh.
Another pressing concern is the need for product diversification and market expansion. While non-traditional markets like Japan and Australia are showing promise, further efforts are needed to tap new opportunities. "There should be a focus on non-traditional markets for product diversification and the development of new markets," advises Rubel. The positive exports growth to South Korea is a good example. "Bangladesh had been performing well in South Korea. We should explore the reasons," suggests Rubel.
Policy inconsistencies are another issue. "Some buyers place orders six months in advance. If the government introduces policies that hike utility bills or wages during that period, it could significantly impact businesses," explains Babu. Abdullah Hil Rakib, MD, Team Group, criticizes the lack of government support, urging a review of policies aligned with industry needs. What’s more, investment in backward linkages is vital for enhancing the RMG sector's competitiveness.
Challenges confronting Ashulia industrial zone
The Ashulia industrial zone faces numerous challenges, with buyers opting against placing orders due to law-and-order concerns and gas shortages. "Some buyers have already developed a map assessing the risks in this zone to relocate their orders away from the Ashulia zone," warns Mirza Shams Mahmud Shakti, CEO, SM Sourcing. While overall orders are strong, those catering to the fast fashion segment have only confirmed orders until April, highlighting potential volatility.
The closure of numerous factories due to financial crises, as reported by BGMEA, underscores the sector's vulnerability. BGMEA data reveals, over a hundred factories started operations in 2024, and the same number of factories closed operations due to the financial crisis.
Despite challenges, there is optimism for 2025. "Our projection for 2025 is about 15 per cent growth," says Sheikh HM Mustafiz, CEO, Cute Dress Industries. "We believe the interim government will take policy decisions to protect domestic industries," adds Russell. Industry leaders emphasize the potential to benefit from the China-US trade war, provided internal factors improve. However, the need for government support and policy reforms is crucial.
One year after the Antwerp Declaration, 400 business leaders gathered with European Commission President Ursula von der Leyen to discuss the Clean Industrial Deal. The initiative aims to strengthen Europe’s industrial base, but industry leaders stressed the need for immediate action to safeguard manufacturing.
Representing 200,000 textile companies and 1.3 million workers, Euratex supports the Clean Industrial Deal but warns that without swift measures, the European textile sector faces serious risks. High energy costs, complex regulations, and unfair competition from imports that bypass EU standards threaten its survival.
Euratex President Mario Jorge Machado highlighted these challenges, stating, “Our industry is in crisis. We need a level playing field, particularly against online platforms ignoring quality and sustainability rules.”
Addressing Climate Commissioner Hoekstra, Machado stressed that Europe accounts for less than 10 per cent of global textile carbon dioxide emissions but enforces strict sustainability laws while unsustainable imports dominate. “Without fair competition, we are outsourcing pollution while shutting down European factories,” he warned.
To safeguard the textile sector, Euratex emphasized four key priorities within the Clean Industrial Deal. Ensuring stable and competitively priced energy through an Affordable Energy Plan is crucial to retaining textile production and securing jobs. Public Procurement Reform should prioritize EU-made, sustainable textiles in government tenders, fostering demand for responsible production.
A dedicated Competitiveness Fund is essential to support SMEs by providing financial aid for innovation, workforce training, and technological advancements. Additionally, Fair Trade Partnerships must be reinforced to uphold environmental and social standards in global trade agreements, ensuring a level playing field for European manufacturers.
Machado also urged action to drive demand for sustainable textiles. “Sustainability cannot be a burden only on manufacturers. Consumers and public procurement must be incentivized to choose eco-friendly products,” he said.
Euratex calls on the European Commission and EU member states to act swiftly. “Factories are closing, and jobs are at stake,” Machado warned. “We need concrete measures now to secure the future of the European textile industry.”
Kraig Biocraft Laboratories, has achieved a major breakthrough in its genetic research, doubling the complexity and size of its spider silk gene insert package. This advancement is expected to enhance material performance, driving next-generation spider silk development.
By expanding the gene insert package, Kraig Labs aims to create stronger, more elastic, and more durable silk fibers. These improvements are critical for high-performance applications in defense, medical, and technical textile industries.
"Larger and more complex gene inserts could unlock superior material characteristics," said Kim Thompson, CEO of Kraig Labs. "This breakthrough strengthens our leadership in biomaterials innovation."
While pushing the boundaries in the lab, Kraig Labs is also advancing commercial production. The company remains on track to deliver commercial quantities of spider silk this year, targeting multiple market applications.
"Our team is balancing innovation and production to meet growing demand," said COO Jon Rice. "This will be a pivotal year for industry integration of spider silk."
With a dual focus on research and commercialization, Kraig Labs is positioning itself as a global leader in bioengineered spider silk. The company continues to drive innovation, aiming to transform the future of high-performance materials.
eVent Fabrics has launched stormburstLT, its latest ultralight, highly breathable waterproof laminate, designed for aerobic outdoor activities. This new addition enhances eVent’s portfolio, joining alpineST for extreme conditions, stormST for outdoor and lifestyle wear, and windstormST for windproof softshell applications.
stormburstLT features a 5-micron PFAS-free membrane with exceptional moisture vapor transport, ensuring top-tier breathability and comfort. Available with lightweight woven or knitted face fabrics, it is built for high-performance use in running, cycling, Nordic skiing, hiking, and skiing, as well as insulated jackets.
“With a focus on aerobic activities, stormburstLT fills a critical category gap,” said Chad Kelly, President of eVent Fabrics. “We developed it to meet the needs of our brand partners, offering a versatile, breathable, and windproof solution for fast-and-light pursuits.”
Lightweight, packable, and adaptable, stormburstLT is also perfect for adventure travel and activewear. eVent Fabrics will showcase stormburstLT at Performance Days Munich on March 5-6 at Booth Q12, inviting designers and product developers to explore its versatility and discuss applications for their next product innovations.
Italy’s textile and clothing industry is working on a strategic plan to drive innovation, sustainability, and competitiveness in the face of global challenges. Confindustria Moda, along with national trade unions Femca-Cisl, Filctem-Cgil, and Uiltec-Uil, is engaging in dialogue to develop an industrial policy proposal for the Italian Government and the European Commission. Their focus includes sustainability, circularity, training, and financial support to strengthen the industry.
The Italian textile and clothing sector remains Europe’s largest value chain, supplying global markets with high-quality products that blend creativity and craftsmanship. With around 40,000 companies (60,000 including other fashion sectors) and 400,000 direct employees, the industry generates €64 billion in annual turnover, largely driven by exports. However, maintaining this position requires continuous investment in product and process innovation, particularly in a rapidly changing post-pandemic world. Rising geopolitical uncertainties, technological disruptions, and competition from low-cost markets add to the sector’s challenges.
A significant transformation is underway as the industry moves towards greener, more circular business models. The EU Green Deal aims to ensure that by 2030, textiles on the European market are durable, reusable, repairable, and recyclable. This shift demands substantial adjustments from companies and workers alike. The sector is a major contributor to pollution, with high CO2 emissions, water consumption, and chemical use. Adapting to EU sustainability goals while remaining competitive is a key priority for Italian industry leaders and trade unions.
The "Stitch Together" project, supported by the EU, is fostering long-term cooperation to enhance industrial development and social progress. It aims to strengthen employer and worker associations, develop skills, and promote social dialogue and collective bargaining across the supply chain.
At a national seminar in Rome on February 19-20, 2025, key stakeholders agreed on several commitments. These include ensuring a socially just green and digital transition, defining priority proposals for industrial policy, and collaborating with institutions to attract and train young talent while upskilling existing workers. The EU TCLF Pact for Skills will play a crucial role in workforce development.
Additionally, industry leaders and unions pledged to uphold legality and decent work across the supply chain, adhering to European regulations on responsible trade and due diligence. They urged the Italian Government and the EU to support the industry’s transformation through financial and managerial assistance. Strengthening European-level social dialogue is seen as essential for a smooth transition.
The Italian textile industry is at a pivotal moment. While its global reputation for excellence remains strong, adapting to sustainability and digitalization will determine its future success.
Five years have passed since the UK left the European Union, and the impact on its retail sector continues to be felt. New data by Retail Economics and Tradebyte reveals almost £5.9 billion drop in British retail sales to the EU since Brexit. This anniversary serves as a stark reminder of the challenges faced by UK businesses and the evolving strategies they are adopting to survive and thrive.
Dip in British exports, retail sales
The ‘From Brexit to Breakthrough - Market Expansion for UK Brands’ report, initially published in June 2024, reveals a concerning picture. Clothing exports have been decimated, falling over 60 per cent from £7.4 billion in 2019 to just £2.7 billion in 2023. This decline underscores the sector's vulnerability to post-Brexit trade barriers. The composition of UK exports has also shifted significantly. Apparel, once a leading export, has been overtaken by health and beauty, electrical, and DIY and gardening products, which now constitute three-quarters of UK non-food retail exports to the EU. Even these sectors have not been immune to the downturn, with the overall value of non-food retail exports falling nearly 18 per cent since 2019, despite the mitigating effect of inflation.
Trade frictions a bane
Beyond the headline figures, the report highlights the significant role of Brexit-related trade frictions. Increased logistics costs, complex customs procedures, and regulatory hurdles are hindering international online retail opportunities for UK brands. These complexities are estimated to be costing EU economies a staggering £322.6 billion. The added bureaucracy and expense have made it significantly more difficult for UK businesses to compete in the lucrative European e-commerce market.
UK brands take the online route
However, amidst these challenges, a new avenue for growth has emerged: online marketplaces. These platforms have become a vital lifeline for UK brands seeking to regain lost ground in the European market. With online marketplaces now accounting for at least £133 billion (two-fifths) of EU e-commerce, they offer a significant opportunity for UK retailers to access a vast customer base.
“Five years after Brexit, UK retailers are still navigating its long-term effects, particularly when it comes to trading with EU consumers,” says Richard Lim, CEO, Retail Economics. “Many have experienced a significant drop in trade flows, making it harder to maintain connections with key European markets.” Lim emphasizes the crucial role of digital marketplaces in mitigating these challenges. “For brands looking to expand internationally, digital marketplaces have become an essential lifeline, providing a practical route to reach global audiences while overcoming complex trade barriers. By embracing these platforms, retailers can mitigate some of the challenges posed by Brexit and refocus on growth opportunities in an increasingly competitive global market.”
Alexander Otto, Head of Corporate Relations at Tradebyte agrees and says, “Brexit has transformed the UK retail landscape, creating significant obstacles for UK brands and retailers aiming to expand in Europe, and making it far harder for them to tap into the flourishing EU e-commerce market. Online marketplaces now represent a platform for innovation and a scalable, low-risk path to reach affluent and younger EU consumers across a range of markets. They have emerged as crucial platforms to offset the challenges of Brexit and offer vital growth drivers in a competitive global market.”
The data clearly indicates while Brexit has undoubtedly created significant headwinds for UK retailers, particularly those reliant on EU trade, online marketplaces offer a potential pathway to recovery and growth. The shift towards digital platforms is a strategic adaptation in the post-Brexit scenario, allowing businesses to navigate complex trade barriers and tap into the vast potential of the European e-commerce market. The next five years will be crucial in determining whether this strategy can fully offset the negative impacts of Brexit and pave the way for a more resilient and globally competitive UK retail sector.
Gucci showcased its first collection at the Milan Fashion Week since the departure of its Creative Director, Sabato De Sarno.
Presented at Superstudio Maxi, the fashion show to showcase the collection was accompanied by an original soundtrack from Oscar-winning composer Justin Hurwitz of ‘La La Land’ fame. Hurwitz conducted a live chamber orchestra for a front row that included François-Henri Pinault, CEO, Kering alongside celebrities like Julia Garner, Jessica Chastain, and Dev Patel.
Designed by Gucci's in-house team, the collection offered a blend of past and present, featuring nods to various decades. Highlights included '60s-inspired fur coats and mohair peacoats, knee-length skirts with side slits, tailored tunics, and Donegal tweed suits. '90s influences were also evident in slip dresses, oversized blazers, and bouclé mini dresses. Interlocking "G" print velvet dresses and semi-sheer skirts with velour leotards and gold stirrup pendants added a touch of glamour. The collection also featured new iterations of the 1955 horse-bit bag, emphasizing commercial appeal.
In contrast to the Alessandro Michele era, which often presented a more bohemian aesthetic, this collection exuded a refined elegance.
The menswear segment featured sharp tailoring, including double-breasted suits with elongated jackets and slim pants. Mohair cardigans were also prominent, though the repetition of similar coat designs in different materials raised questions.
The show concluded with the in-house design team taking a collective bow, all wearing Castleton green sweatshirts.
